Class 

Book 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT, 



THE LAND 

PROPHETS 



BY 

ALBERT H. HEUSSER 

LECTURER, DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION, NEW YORK CITY. 
MEMBER NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY. 

AUTHOR OF 

'HOMES AND HAUNTS OF THE INDIANS' 
'THE HEART OF THE ETERNAL CITY' 
'RAILWAY TRAVEL IN EGYPT' 
'HISTORIC NEW JERSEY' 
ETC. ETC. 



THOMAS Y. CROWELL COMPANY 
PUBLISHERS 
NEW YORK CITY 



COPYRIGHT, 1916 
BY 

ALBERT H. HEUSSER 




NOV 17 1916 
©CU44B474 



PRESS OF 
BRAEN-H EUSSER 
PATERSON, N. J. 



FOREWORD. 



"Does the Holy Land justify the expectations 
of the traveler ?" is the question often asked. 

Yes, if you see EGYPT first. 

Our own homeland is so attractive, with its 
beautiful natural scenery, fertile fields, abundant 
rainfall and agreeable climate, that Palestine 
suffers by comparison. The ofttimes barren hills 
of Judea and the somewhat scanty vegetation in 
certain regions seem rather disappointing, but 
visit Egypt first, and after the burning 
yellow sands of the Sudan, — coupled with the 
utter solitude of the desolate Libyan hills, — Syria 
and Judea will seem to you, as to the Israelites of 
old, a "goodly land, beautiful for situation, the joy 
of the whole Earth". 

It has been our privilege to spend some weeks 
in the Land of the Pharaohs. We have become sur- 
feited with the pathetic grandeur of the Nile valley. 
The crumbling temples and eloquent monuments 
of Egypt have taught their never-to-be-forgotten 
lesson, — the vanity of human greatness; and it 
remains for Palestine, with its familiar figures, to 
teach us those other lessons, — the supremacy 
of character, exemplified in the life of Jesus of 
Nazareth, and the constancy and indus- 
try by which the Jew is working out his own 
destiny. 

A. H. H. 

Avignon, France, August 21+th, 1913. 



CONTENTS 



Page 

PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 9 

*The Cedars of Lebanon. 

DAMASCUS 36 

An Oriental Corner. 

GALILEE 67 

Tiberias. 

NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 103 

The Colonnade of Herod, — Sebastieh. 

ANCIENT JERUSALEM 143 

Dr. Schick's model of the Temple. 

ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 187 

The Empress Augusta Victoria Endowment. 

JERICHO AND PETRA 225 

The Moabite Stone and The Apostles' Fountain. 

BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 273 

Old Railway Station at Ramleh. 
* Chapter heading decorations from pen sketches by the author. 



HISTORICAL REFERENCE NOTES 
^ < ■ > » 

Bethlehem 280 

Beyrout - - — 22, 23 

Damascus - - — - - 39, 40 

Hejaz Railway — - - — - 68 

Jaffa 294 

Jericho - - - 236, 237 

Jerusalem : 

Old Testament Jerusalem - 146, 147 

Ptolemaic and Maccabsean Jerusalem 154, 155 

Roman Jerusalem 160, 161, 162, 163 

Mediaeval Jerusalem — — - 168, 169 

Modern Jerusalem — 173 

Jewish Colonization of Palestine 290, 291 

Mulai-el-Hafid -- - 19 

Nabataeans, The 254, 255 

Nazareth - - 1° 4 

Petra 260 

Samaritans, The 122 

Sebastieh 124 

Shechem 127 

Suez Canal - • 15 

Tabor, Mount 97 

Tiberias 92,93 

Tolstoi, Count Lyeff N .- ----- 222 



INDEX 



A. 

ABANA, the river ... 38, 43, 44 

ABBOTT, Dr. Lyman 231 

'ABD EL-KADER 55, 56 

ABDUL HAMID, Sultan of Turkey 

See Hist. Notes, also 153 

ABSALOM, Tomb of 203-205 

Acqueducts of Ancient Jerusalem 165-202 

Agriculture, in Galilee 68-69-87 

At Jericho ... 243 

Among the Colonists 298-308 

In Samaria 127 

A IN EL-HARAMIYEH 136 

AIN ES SULTAN 239 

'AIN SINYA 136 

AKSA MOSQUE, at Jerusalem .... 162-163 

Allah, Garden of _. 39 

AMERICAN COLLEGE, Beyrout .... 28-30 
'American Colony' in Jerusalem .... 146-190 
AMERICAN MISSION CHURCH, Jerusa- 
lem 218 

American products in Palestine 27-28-278 

AMMAN 251-253 

Amusements; in Damascus 51 

In Jerusalem 220 

ANANIAS, House of, Damascus .... 53-55 

ANTONIA, tower of 166-167 

APOSTLES' SPRING 231 

Arabs, 

Farmers 309 

Houses 255 

Tribal Law 255 

See also 'Bedouins' 

Ark of the Covenant 155-159-160 

Archaeological Notes : 

Baalbek 61-62 

Capernaum 77-78-79 

Caves of Galilee 89 

In Moab Country 252 

New Jersey Rock Shelters 89 

Concerning Petra 257 to 264 

Excavations in Jerusalem 240-242 

Attempt at Siloam 202 

ASSYRIA 33-34 

See also Hist. Notes. 

Automobiles, absence of 273 

Aujeh, the river 308 



BAALBEK 36- 58 to 61 

Barbers, of the Orient 49-50 

Baths : of Gadara 71 

of Tiberias 90 

Bazars 44-46-217-295-301 

Bedouins : 

of the desert 231-255-259-263-268-269 

of Galilee 91 

of Jaffa 308 

of Jerusalem 137-227 

BEECHER, Henry Ward 93 

Beggars : of Jenin 119 

of Jericho 238 

of Jerusalem 172-199-216 

along the road 121-122 

BELSUNCE, Bishop 233 

BETHANY 227 to 230 

BETHESDA, pool of 202 

BETHLEHEM 273 to 288 



20 to 32 

32 

227 



BEYROUT 

Boot-blacks of Beyrout .... 

Boys : of Bethany 

of Bethlehem 

at Jenin 119 

at Jericho 267-270 

of Jerusalem ._ 216- 

See also 28-32- 

Boy Scouts, reference to Ill- 
Bulgarian Jews 

BURKHARDT, explorations of — 
See Hist. Note on 'Petra'. 
BYRON, Lord 107- 



120 
271 
277 
118 
112 
291 



266 



'CALVARY' 177 et. seq. 180-181 

Camels 66, 244, 268, 276 

CANAAN, Land of : 

See Hist. Notes, also 235 

CANA 98-99 

CAPERNAUM 74-77-78-81 

Caravans 66, 127, 137, 268, 308 

Cemeteries, Moslem 179-281 

Charity, in the East 49 

Institutions in Jerusalem 218-271 

CHRIST : 

His Baptism 244-247 

His Boyhood 103-110 to 112 

His Birth 284-285-288 

At Capernaum 78 to 81 

His Character 117-118 

In the hills of Galilee 74-79 

By the shores of Galilee 83 to 85 

In the 'Garden Tomb' 177-186 

In Gethsernane 207-209 

His Human Nature 229 

Probable attitude toward Moslems 164- 

165 

And the Samaritan Woman .... 131-133 
His traditional Sepidcher .... 173 et. seq. 
His sufferings and death .... 171 et. seq. 

In the Wilderness 232-238 

Christianity : 

In Damascus 54-55 

Its growth in Jerusalem .... 169 et. seq. 

Pilgrims at the Jordan 244-247 

Traces at Sebastieh 126 

Also see 'Churches' 

Churches : 

American Mission, Jerusalem 218 

The 'Annunciation', Nazareth .... 113-114 

Of the Armenians 172-173-191-192 

Coptic, at Holy Sepulchre 172-174 

Greek Catholic, Jerusalem 172-173 

Greek Catholic, Nazareth 112 

Greek Catholic, Jacobs Well .... 131-132 

The Nativity, Bethlehem 281 

Roman Catholic 115-169 et. seq., 176-219 

Russian, on Olivet 205-209 

St. Stephen, Jerusalem 184 

CLEMENS, Samuel 

See Mark Twain. 

Climate, of the desert 256 

of Jericho 237 

of Lower Judea 304-305 

Coaling Steamers 13 

Coffee 46-123 

Coinage 52-122-130 



IV 



INDEX. 



Commerce, of Damascus 41 

of the Hill Country oXVoir 

of Jaffa . ----- ----- 301-315 

CONSTANTINE, Hist. Notes, also 172 

Consular Attendants - - 11-12 

Conveyances 23-95-226-267-274 

Colonists : , 
See 'Jewish Colonists' and 'Tempters . 

Criminals - - 31 

Crusaders : See Hist. Notes, also 170 

at Bethlehem - 283 

at Jerusalem ....140-141 165-172-183-185 
200-278 

at Nazareth - 103-115 

at Petra 259 

Custom Houses - 10-23 

D. 

DAMASCUS, 36 to 66 

Bazars ._ 44-46 

Citadel 56 

Great Mosque 57 

Walls - 56 

Damascus Gate, Jerusalem — . 177-212 

D AMI EN, Father - - 233 

'Dark Ages' 169-170 

DAVID. See Hist. Notes, also 192-232-278 

DEAD SEA 210-225-234-247 to 250 

DE LESSEPS, Ferdinand 15-16 

DER' AT 69 

Devotional Comment : 

Miracles at CAN A 100 

At CAPERNAUM 81 

On Christ's CHARACTER 117 

'Memories of GALILEE' 76 

A Walk beside GALILEE 83 to 86 

At the 'Tomb in the GARDEN' 182-186 

On Infinite GOODNESS 188-189 

At the HOLY SEP TJL CHE R Church, 
174-175 

At JACOB'S WELL 133-135 

Where LOVE is, there GOD is also' 
224 

MARY and GABRIEL 114 

On the TEMPLE site 154-155 

DICKENS, Charles 222 

Disciples of Christ 83-85-182-204 

DOG RIVER, Syria 32 to 34 

Dogs 27-63-268 

DOMINICANS, French 184 

Dress, of the natives 45-50 to 52-113-308 



EASTER; at the Gar en Tomb .... 182-183 

at the Holy Sepulcher Church 173 

EBAL, Mount 128 

Education see 'Schools' 30 

EGYPT, 33-34-163-204-209-273-291 

See also Hist. Notes. 

ELMENDORF, Dwight 103 

Engineering 70-71 

See also acqueducts, roads and railways. 



FARMING, see Agriculture. 

Fishermen of Galilee 90-91 

Flowers 307-308-309 

Food Stuffs 38-48-49 

See also Agriculture. 
Foreign influence in Jerusalem.. ..187-190 
191 

Fountains in Damascus 61-63 

FRANCE, influence in Morocco 19-22 

influence in Palestine .... 24-187-190-22 
See Hist. Notes. 



FRANCISCANS 77-207 

Fruit 53-238-291-306-309-310 



GALILEE, region of 67 to 100 

Sea of 67-72-73-74-83-85-86 

Garden Tomb of Jesus 177 et seq. 

Geology of Syria 68 

GERMAN influence in Palestine, 24-48- 
144-190-221 

Hotels 24-75-107-127 

Railway Construction 64 

Tempter Colonies 303-304 

See also 'Kaiser William II, 
GERMAN ORIENTAL SOCIETY : 

Work at Capernaum 77-78 

Work at Jericho 236-239 to 241 

GERIZIM, Mount 126-128 

GETHSEMANE, Gardens of .... 207 et seq. 
GEZER, British Exploration at .... 291-292 

Girls 98-107-286 

GODFREY DE BOUILLON 141-170 

'GOLGOTHA' : Chapel, Holy Sep. Church, 
175 

The Hill without the walls, .... 177-178 

179 et seq. 

GORDON, Gen 180-182 

GREAT BRITAIN, influence in Egypt, 

15-24 

Greek Patriarch of Alexandria 19 

Guides 107-108-255-264-265 

H. 

HAIFA 303-311 

HARAM ESH-SHERIF, Jerusalem.... 148 
et seq. 

HAURAN, region of the 68 

HEBRON - 169-265 

HELENA, the empress 114-172-176 

See also Hist. Notes. 

HERMON, Mount 20-65-66 

HEROD THE GREAT .... 159-178-179-236 
See also Hist. Notes. 

HINNOM, Vallev of 194-199-275 

HIRSCH, Baron 

See Hist. Notes. 

HOFFMAN, reproduction of painting 

'Christ Preaching by the Sea' .... 79 

HOLMES, E. Burton 213-223 

Holy Sepulcher, Church of 168 to 177 

the Sepulcher 173 to 175 

the 'Garden Tomb' 177 to 186 

Hospitals : 

In Jerusalem (German) .... 185-210-211 

In Jerusalem (French) — - 213 

Of the Jewish Colonists .... 306-310-311 

Hot Springs of Galilee oon"o22 

of Bethlehem 280-286 

Houses, of Beyrout oqVoqs 

of Jericho 237-238 

of Old Jerusalem 215-219 

of New Jerusalem 182-189 

of Jewish Colonists 297-312-313 



Industries, 48 to 50, 87-113-201-215-216 

305 et. seq. 
Inscriptions : 

At Dog River - 32 to 34 

Found near 'Garden Tomb 184 

Of the Nabataeans ----- 263 

IRELAND, references to 107-128 

ISRAELITES, Ancient 

See Historical Notes, also 

129-234-238-240-244-278-313 



INDEX. 



v 



j. 

JACOB'S WELL 131-133 

JAFFA 290-302 

Commerce 301-315 

Inhabitants 300 

Orange Groves — 291 

The Rocks 300-302-314 

'House of Simon the Tanner' 299 

JENIN 117 to 119 

JERICHO 225-234 et seq., 265 

Fall of 240-242 

JEROME ST 285 

JEWS, The 

Appearance of Palestine Jews .... 11-275 
Their ancient Engineering works .... 165 

Their future - 307-313-316 

Their influence in the world 89-117 

Place of Lamentation, Jerusalem 195-313 

Their regard for the Aged 298 

Their feeling regarding the Temple, 155 
195-313 

See also 'Schools' and 'Synagogues'. 

JEWISH COLONISTS, 

See Historical Note 290 

At Achusath Baith 312 

At Artuf 291 

At Ekron 291 

At Em el-Djmal 289-312 

Settlements in Galilee 97-98 

At Jaffa 293-294-297 

At El Eastiniah 292-307 

At Mikweh Israel 305 

Montefiore Colony 274-276 

Motza Colony 312 

At Petach Tikvoh 306-307 

At Rishon le-Zion 304 to 307 

At Rosh Pinah 312 

At Telawiw 295, 312 to 314 

At Zichron Jacob 311-312 

In Jerusalem 215-220-271-274-312 

Polish Jews at Tiberias 77 

Their tombs in Galilee 88-89 

JERUSALEM : 
See Hist. Notes. 

Aceldama 200 

American Colony Store 146 

Antonia, Tower of 166-167 

Appearance in Roman times 159 

Approach to 138 

'Chain Dome' 161 

Citadel 145 to 148, 191 

Damascus Gate 212 

Destruction of 156 

Dung Gate - 194-198 

Ecce Homo Arch 167-172-216 

Emp. Augusta Vic. Endowment 187-210 

Evil Counsel, Hill of 200-277 

'Garden Tomb' 177 

Gethsemane, Garden of 207 

Golgotha 177-179 

■Gordon Tomb' 177 

Golden Gate - 166 

Grotto of Jeremiah ... 177-178 

Haram esh-Sherif 148 

Holy Sepulcher Church 168 to 177 

Hospitals 185-211-213 

Jaffa Gate 139 to 143, 190-191 

Jaffa Road 190 

Lower Town 193-212 

New Jerusalem .... 139-182-189-216-270 

Omar, Dome of 148 

Praetorium 170 

Street Scenes 144-145-270 

Chamber of 'Last Supper' 192-193 

Tombs in the Valley 203 

Tyropoean Valley - 161-193 

Upper City 160-161-193 



Via Dolorosa 170 to 172 

'Wailing Place' 195-313 

Walls .. 191 et seq., 206-209-211-213-226 
Zion Quarter and Gate: 178-192-194-275 
JESUS, See 'Christ' 

JORDAN, THE .... 18-225-243 to 247, 252 

Plains of the 234-243 

JOHN THE BAPTIST 57-125-247 

JOSEPHUS : See Hist. Notes, also 252 

JUDGES, The _ 130 

Joshua 127-129 

Samson 290 

Samuel 290 

JUSTINIAN, See Hist. Notes, aiso"l6'2-283 

K. 

KAFR KENNA 98-99 

KAISER WILLIAM II, of Germany : 76, 

143-144-145-190-210 

KAHAN, Dr 310-311 

KEDRON, The Valley of the, 155-178-194- 

202 

Khans; of the Orient 134-135 

Kings, The Jewish: 

See Hist. Notes, also 193-197 

Ahab 125 

Hezekiah 202 

Omri 125 

Saul 232-290 

Solomon 60-150-164-192-196 

See under 'David'. 

Koran, reference to 153 

Kurds, Appearance 12-13 

L. 

LANDOR, Col 162 

LAZARUS 228-229 

LEBANON Mountains 20-37 

LEROLLE, Reproduction of Painting, 

'The Arrival of the Shepherds' .... 283 

LINCOLN, Abraham 78-230 

Live Stock 65-86-87-135 

See also 'Jewish Colonists' of Jaffa. 

LOWELL, Jas. Russell 78 

LYDDA 292 

M. 

MAGDALA 74 

MA'AN. EL 253-254 

'Maid of Nazareth' 107 

Mansions of Damascus 63 

MARY, Mother of Jesus .. 110 to 114, 229 

MARY and MARTHA 229-230 

MACCABEES, See Hist. Notes, also .... 167 

MACHPELAH, Cave of 169 

MECCA, references to _. 159-164 

pilgrimages to 18-57 
MEDITERRANEAN .... 15-17-292-315-316 

Mishna, The 88 

Missions, Medical 188 

MOAB, Land of — 234, 250 to 254 

MOHAMMED, See Hist. Notes, also 'Mos- 
lems' and 13-156-163-164-179 

Monasteries 192-238-284-285 

Mar Saba 250 

In Wadi Kelt 232-233 

MONTEFIORE, Sir Moses .... 220-2,4-276 

MORIAH, Mount 150-155 

MOROCCO 18-19 

Moslems : See 'Industries' , 'Costumes' , etc. 
their architecture .. 126-148-153-161-162 

influence in Jerusalem 149-162 

their theology 155-159-161 to 164 

MOSES 150-234 235 



VI 



INDEX. 



Mosques, of Damascus 43 

El-Aksa; Jerusalem 162 

'Movie' Shows 25-221 

MULAI EL-HAFID 17-18-19-22 

Music; of the Moslems 17 

of the Colonists 296-310 

N. 

NAAMAN 39-245 

NABATAEANS, The 251-254-255 

See also 'Petra'. 

NABULUS 126-127 et. seq. 

NAPOLEON I, See Hist. Notes, also .. 235 

Natives : of Bethlehem 280-281 

of Damascus 45-46 

of Jaffa 308 

of Jericho 237 

See also 11-26 

Nativity, Church of the 281 

NAZARETH - 103 et seq. 

NETTER, Charles 305-306 

NEW ENGLAND 245 

O. 

Oil. from the Caucasus 124 

OLIVET, Mount 138-201-205 

Olives : Culture, etc 118-277 

trees in Gethsemane 208 

trees in Temple area 165-166 

wood for souvenirs 116 

OMAR, Caliph, See Hist. Notes, also .. 162 

Dome of 148-150-151 

Research work of Capt. Parker, 157 to 
160 

Tragedy in Mosque of Omar - 156 



Palm Sunday 166 

Patriarchs 124 

Abraham 87-124-128 

Isaac 124 

Jacob 124-131-133-279 

PAUL, St. 

His stay in Damascus 53 to 56 

His ministry 167 to 168 

His arrest in Jerusalem 167 

His Philosophy 247 

PETRA 251, 255 to 264 

Philosophical Comment : 

On our Animal friends 265-267 

On the Apathy of the East 287 

On Friendship 141-288 

On the Future of the Jews 316 

On Humility 245 

On Moslem Worship 163 to 165 

On Jewish Lamentation 197 

On the -Wayside Inn' 134-135 

Photography - 43-166 

PILATE, See Hist. Notes, also 170 

Porters 23-314 

PORT SAID 9-14 

Post Offices 71-146-190-191 

Prickly Pear, the 98 

Priests 177 

Prophets : 

A mos 316 

Balaam 276 

Elisha 126-239 

Ezekiel 205 

Jeremiah^. 177 

Nehemiaf}/ 147 

Obadiah 126 



Psalms 



139 



Q. 

QUARANTANIA, Mt 238 

R. 

RACHEL, Tomb of 279 

Railway Travel 36-37-38 

The Hejaz Railway,—. 64 to 71, 251-254 

Haifa-Damascus line 120-121 

New extension 121 

Jerusalem to Jaffa 277 to 293 

Rainfall 118-243 

Ramadan, Moslem fast of 179-295 

RAMLEH 292 

Refreshments 25-210-248-286 

Roads, Condition of - 116-118-123-273 

ROMAN REMAINS : 

At Amman 254 

Arch of Titus, Rome 157-158 

Baalbek 58 to 60 

Beyrout 30 

Damascus 57-58 

Galilee 71-86-89 

Jericho 235 

Petra 258 to 264 

Jerusalem : See Hist. Note 160 to 163, 
198 

Jerusalem, Remains of Praetorium 217 
Jerusalem, Fortifications .... 147-167-213 

Jerusalem, Tombs 206 

Jerusalem, Walls 178-179 

Tiberias, Castle 75-77-82 

Sebastieh 126 

■t Siloam - 203 

ROTHSCHILD, Baron .... 291-306-309-311 

ROUMANIAN Jews 311 

RUSSIAN influence in Palestine .. 298-300 



SALADIN, See Hist. Notes, also 143 

SAMAKH J2 

SAMARIA ----- 119 

'Samaritan, The good' 225-311 

'The Good Samaritan Inn' 232-269-270 

Sanitation 10-227-304-309-311 

Saracens 116 

See Moslems 

SARONA, German Colony 303-304 

Schools, Christian 109-110-120-216 

Jewish 88-305-306-312 

SCHICK, Dr. 

His model of the Temple 143-160 

SCOTT, Sir Walter 207-266 

SEBASTIEH 124-125 

SHECHEM 127 to 130 

Shepherds of Bethlehem 285 

Shipping 2 °- 21 -f£ 

Shoemakers — 45 

Silk culture - 306-310 

SILOAM 158-179, 199 to 202 

SMITH, Haskett 184 

Social Conditions in the East, 14-280-287- 
288 

In Damascus 46-47 

Among the Jews 293 et seq. 

SOLOMON 150-196-202 

Ruins at Baalbek 60-61 

'Stables of 164-165 

STODDARD, John L 140 

STEVENSON, Robt. Louis 207 

Steamers 9-11-13-313 

SUEZ CANAL 9-15-16 

Sword makers 47 "^ 

SYRIA 20 to 70 

Svrian Protestant College 28 

Synagogues 87-111-306-312 



INDEX. 



vn 



T. 



TABOR, MOUNT 96-9 7 

Talmud, The 88 

Telegraph The, in Damascus 42 

in Jerusalem 137 

'Temple, The' — 

Site at Jerusalem 148 et seq. 

Dr. Schick's model 143-160 

'Wailing Place' 195 

'Templers' (German Colonists) .... 303-304 

TIBERIAS 73 et seq. 

Threshing with Oxen 87 

TITUS, See Hist. Notes, also 157-158-212 

TOLSTOI, Count 222 to 224 

Tombs : of Christ 168-177-186 

Rock tombs of Palestine 89-136 

Roman tombs at Petra 263-264 

of David 192 

outside Jerusalem 203-204 

Tourists : 'personally conducted' .... 72-73 

Tramways, electric 25-42 

TURKEY : Influence among Bedouins 255 

War with Italy 21 

Her soldiers 17-173-275 

'TWAIN, MARK' 32-91-92-93 

Y, 

VERONICA, House of 172 

VIRGIN'S FOUNTAIN, Nazareth 110-111 

VIRGIN, Tomb of the 209 



W. 

Wadi KELT 932 

Wadi MUSA 257 

WALLACE. GEN. LEW m 

WASHINGTON, GEORGE ""!""._ 78 

Water Carriers 99-101-308 

Weavers 51-52 

WEHLE, J. R., reproduction of painting : 

'And they followed Him' 84 

Wedding, at Jaffa 295-296 

Wheat raising 307-310 

WILDERNESS OF JUDEA 230-268 

WILHELMA (German Colony) 303 

Wells : In the Wilderness 123-124 

Jacob's 124, 130 to 133 

Wine, the production of .... 277, 305 et seq 

Women of the Orient 11-18-23 

of Cana 98-99 

of the Bedouins 251-267-268 

Wood Turners _. 50-215 

'Workshop of Joseph' Nazareth, ill to 114 

Y. 

YARMUK. Valley of the 65-G9-70 

Z. 

ZAMMARIN 311 

ZIONIST MOVEMENT 305 et seq. 

(See Jewish Colonists.) 




fORT SAID is the great "Marine Junction" or 
"Clearing House" of the Orient. 
Here all vessels stop; great merchantmen bound 
for India, China or the East Coast of Africa, or the smaller 
accommodation steamers of the Austrian Lloyd, Russian and 
Khedevial lines, which convey the traveler, in twenty-four 
hours, to any of the ports of Palestine. 

Port Said is confusion itself. The Suez Canal here 
broadens out into a wide basin or harbor, which is crowded 
with shipping and alive with small boats. In-coming steam- 
ers are instantly surrounded by a swarm of nondescript craft, 
— the gaily painted boats of the hotels and tourist agencies, 
in which stand frantic porters and guides, waving and 
howling at passengers in an effort to attract attention and 
patronage. 

The porters persuasively grin and gesticulate, and the 
instant the officer will permit, scramble aboard like a crew 



10 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



of pirates, ready at the slightest nod to drag out your bag- 
cage from the security of the stateroom and convey it, with 
your own sacred person as well, to the still greater confusion 
of the Turkish custom house. 

We however, have been through this experience before, 
and having come up from Cairo on the morning train, are 
eager to make connections with the Palestine boat. 

The custom house through which we pass is rather 




COALING UP AT PORT SAID. 

primitive, it is rat-infested, and its floor is the hard packed 
earth. We congratulate ourselves that on leaving the 
country we need not submit to another examination, but 
wait — the majesty of the Khedive must be upheld, and an 
additional tax exacted for the good cause. We unbuckle 
straps and open suit cases, resulting in an assessment of a 
few piastres by the "Sanitaire" Department, because we are 
carrying out of the port a soiled shirt and a couple of wilted 
collars ! 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 11 

No sooner had we set foot aboard the u Elektra" than 
we realized that another epoch in our travel experiences had 
begun. I know of no better vantage point for a student of 
economics or psychology than the after portion of the upper 
deck, from which he can look down upon the third class pas- 
sengers, who merely pay for deck room, and pass the hours of 
the short Mediterranean voyage huddled together like cattle 
in the stern of the ship, provided with their own eatables 
and blankets, and supplied by the company with transporta- 
tion only. 

Here, for the first time, we see the typical Palestine 
Jews, with long patriarchal beards and orthodox curls be- 
fore the ears, clad in sombre black. With their fuzzy 

broad-brimmed hats, and 
shambling gait, they pre- 
sent the very pictures of 
crafty old Shylock or 
the cringing Isaac of 
Ivanhoe. 

Although apparently 
feeble and tottering, they 
are capable of the most 
vehement protests when 
the lemonade venders or 
sellers of fruit attempt 
an overcharge. 

There are, of course, 
the inevitable Syrians, Nubians, Copts and Greeks, with an 
occasional picturesque Bedouin, whose face wears beneath 
its turban of snowy whiteness, a scowl, dark and sinister by 
comparison. All travelers are attracted by the beauty of 
the dark eyed Syrian girls and young women, whose lovli- 
ness, however, is sadly marred by their untidiness of dress 
and person. 

Among the crowd in the "pit" below are the two gaudily 
dressed retainers of some official. Their striking uniforms 



E 37149 



Cooseil Saoitalre laritime et Qoarantenaire 



s*- ^ o* - * JT % % 

( jj® W ) i 



OUR "SANITAIRE" TAX RECEIPT. 



12 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



follow closely those of the old time Turkish soldier, with 
Zouave trousers of red, and short gold-embroidered jacket; 
while the long dangling sabres which they carry strike 
against their heels at every step. Later we learn that these 




SMALL BOATS WAITING TO TAKE US ASHORE. 

men form the "body-guard," as it were, for the French consul 
at Jaffa. 

But the strangest group of all that cosmopolitan aggre- 
gation of humankind are squatting apart in a corner. 

Are they Chinese ? Of a Mongolian cast of features, to 
be sure, and wearing the familiar round cap of the East. Are 
they Afghans, Tartars or Cossacks ? The heavy boots they 
wear suggest the Russian snows. Whither bound ? we won- 
der, as we glance curiously at their painted metal trunks, 
and packs of coarsest hide. There are nine men in the 
group, and the faces of any of them would well suit a Geng- 
his Khan or a Tamerlane ! Here is something to puzzle us. 
Devoured by curiosity, we hunt up the Austrian steward, 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



13 



and from him we learn that the group are Kurds, bound for 
Trebizond on the Black Sea, and he is of the opinion that 
they have been to Mecca on a pilgrimage, although all Kurds 
are not orthodox Mohammedans. 

What a marvelous religious fabric is that of El Islam ! 
Into its web and woof are woven so many curious and heter- 
ogeneous strands ! Moor and Mongol, Turk and Arabian, 
Persian and Indian; all followers of that inspired camel 
driver, seer and philosopher, — Mohammed the conqueror ! 

Do you tire of the squalor of the steerage ? The chat- 
ter of the women, the crying of the infants, the hoarse argu- 
ments of the men ? If so, turn again toward the shore. 

We are anchored alongside the big Peninsular and Ori- 




PORT SAID FROM THE CANAL. 

ent liner Persia, in from Bombay this morning, and she will 
sail in a few hours for Marseilles and Plymouth. Coal is 
being taken aboard. Two barges of soft English bituminous 
have tied up to her side, and a multitude of black and grimy 



14 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



Sudanese in chain gang fashion are passing in and out of the 
hold with baskets of coal upon their heads. Like sooty 
gnomes from the inferno they look, and one wonders how 
existence for these poor wretches is even tolerable; swelter- 
ing under a semi-tropical sun for a few piastres a day, while 
idle tourists, well fed and care-free, stare curiously at their 
drudgery in white flanneled elegance ! 



you say 



Is there such a thing as equality? 




''Equality,' 
Can it be possi- 
ble that these 
poor felaheen 
are just as hu- 
man as we; — 
with their 
loves, their am- 
bit i o n s and 
their trials ? I 
fear they have 
a maximum of 
the latter, but 
have long since 
h a d crushed 
out of their 
souls the God- 
given ambition 
which makes 
work a delight ! And this gives us something else to think 

about! . " . 

There is only one Port Said. As to the town itself, it is 
as flat as a prairie, only a few feet above sea level, sandy and 
barren. The place sprang up like one of our Western 
towns; literally in a night, the product of the canal. 

The ever-present suggestion is that of the "Midway" at 
one of our Atlantic Coast resorts. 

Here are the attractive bazars, the peddlers innumera- 
ble, the Cabarets and "movie" shows. Even as we lie 




STEAM DREDGE AT CANAL MOUTH. 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



15 



THE SUEZ CANAL, connecting 
the Red Sea with the Mediter- 
ranean, was formally opened on 
Nov. 16th, 1869, with imposing cer- 
emonies. The canal is 100 miles in 
length from sea to sea, but for a 
third of its length natural lakes and 
swampy areas have been deepened 
and utilized. It is certain that the 
rulers of antiquity dreamed of this 
project — - and that Darius the Per- 
sian did actually complete such a 
water-way — following in part a 
course parallel to the present canal, 
then diverging to the West through 
the delta region, and connecting 
with one of the mouths of the Nile. 
Probably existing in the days of the 
Ptolemies, the canal system* fell into 
disrepair during the first Christian 
Century, and Trajan seems to have 
restored it. After the Arabian con- 
quest, the Calif Omar succeeded in 
utilizing the ancient ditch, but after 
the . 8th century the canal became 
again. . unserviceable. Futile plans 
were made by the Venetians, Louis 
XIV, and Bonaparte, but it re- 
mained for our own age to produce 
the necessary genius and capital re- 
quired for the stupendous undertak- 
ing. 

In 1836 Ferdinand de Lesseps 
came to Cairo as a young consular 
assistant. In the years which fol- 
lowed he became acquainted with 
others as enthusiastic as himself and, 
in 1854, having matured his plan, 
he laid it before Said Pasha, then 
viceroy of Egypt, by whose support 
the work was made possible. Having 
secured additional British and 
French capital the work was begun 
in earnest in 1859, and ten years of 
patient labor, with an expenditure 
of upward of $100,000,000.00 were 
required to complete the undertak- 
ing. De Lessep's fame and fortune 
were, it seemed, secure, until a few 
years later he undertook the still 
greater task of cutting through the 
Isthmus of Panama, which resulted 
in utter financial failure for the 
French company — although the 
work accomplished was the basis of 
our own successful completion. 



anchored in the canal, waiting 
for the hour of departure, the 
strains of the once familiar 
"Merry Widow" waltz come 
w T afted from some noisy hand 
organ ! 

The period of waiting is 
profitably utilized by the na- 
tive population. Boatloads of 
musicians come alongside. 
These singers and players up- 
on mandolin and guitar do 
their best to entertain the pas- 
sengers lined up at the rail, 
holding up inverted umbrellas 
to catch the coveted coins, 
thrown more out of pity than 
from appreciation. 

In contrast to this swarm of 
parasites, the noisy motor 
launches of the canal com- 
pany or customs officials dart 
by from time to time, with the 
red and white flag of Turkey 
everywhere in evidence. 

Steamers, in passing through 
the canal, reduce speed to five 
miles an hour, but these of- 
ficial launches seem to know no speed limit. 

About the middle of the afternoon our lines are cast 
ashore, and slowly we pull out into the channel, headed 
again for the Mediterrane an. 

Protected from the encroaching sands by a two-mile 
breakwater upon the West, the canal joins the open sea. De- 
spite the great causeway and its companion wall opposite, al- 
most a mile in length, dredges are constantly at work keeping 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



the channel open. Several of these are seen in operation as 
we pass, sending out clouds of smoke and cinders, accompa- 
nied by a great grinding and squeaking as the mud is scooped 
up from the bottom and deposited in a lighter alongside. 

So shallow is the water in and near the canal mouth 
that frequently a hasty reversal of the propellers will churn 
the water in the ship's wake into a muddy foam. 



In a conspi- 
upon the protect- 
swept by the 
Med-i-ter-ranean 
ing statue of De 
ther" of the ca- 
as though the 
homage to his 
We forget his 
in our apprecia- 
work here, for 
service to man- 
profits most who 
There is an- 




ft 



cuous position 
ing sea wall, wind 
gales of the 
stands an impos- 
Lesseps, the "fa- 
nal. It seems 
passing ships do 
genius. 

later misfortunes 
tion of his great 
truly this was a 
kind, and "He 
serves best !•" 
other vessel like- 




MONUMENT TO DE LESSEPS 



wise bound for the North, and her departure is by no means 
a quiet affair. Her decks are crowded with soldiers, and the 
military band aboard is creating a fearful din, which no one 
unacquainted with Moslem "harmony" can appreciate. To 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



17 



our Occidental ears it is like unto a banging of tin pans, 
tom-tom drums, cymbals and wheezy horns. 

Perhaps it is "inspirational," and verily the soldiers 
need it, for they are enroute from Yemen in Arabia to join 
their Turkish compatriots in the Balkan hostilities. 

Although short, the passage to the ports of Palestine is 
rather rough, even in the best of weather, and after the 
luxuries of trans-Atlantic travel, the little steamers of the 
Orient seem very unattractive. 

Some "mix-up" in the accommodations secured at Cairo 
results in our being without a stateroom, and we are com- 
pelled to pass the night lying upon a seat in the dining 
saloon, with our Gladstone bag for a pillow. 

In effect, however, it is unlike the stone upon which 
Jacob laid his head at Bethel, for we dream not of angels 
descending upon ladders of moonbeams, but are kept awake 
half the night by the wailing of an infant upon the open 
deck above, where lie the motley throng of human freight, 
enduring sea-sickness, a chilly night, and the absence of all 
comforts. 

We have a 

dis-ting-uished 

passenger 

aboard the 

"Elektra", and 

the warm, sun- 
lit deck amid- 

ships tempts 

h i m, next 

m ornin g, to 

leave the se- 
clusion of his 

cabin. 

It is none 

other than Mu- 

lai- el- Hafid, 




TURKISH MILITARY TRANSPORT. 



18 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



the ex-Sultan of Morocco. We have seen his royal highness 
before, for he put up at Shepheard's famous hostelry at Cai- 
ro, during our sojourn in that historic inn, hut we little ex- 
pected this further opportunity of studying royalty at close 
range. 

With the Sultan are several of the women of his harem, 
and a retinue of twenty-two servants, each of whom has his 
peculiar function to perform. One young man has entire 
charge of the boots and slippers of the entourage. Another 
looks after the luggage, while still another appears to be the 
purser, for he it is who dispenses the gratuities, and he is, 
without doubt, the most popular member of the party. 

As to the Sultan himself, he is a man of striking ap- 
pearance, a typical tribal chieftain. Still a young man, he is 
tall, but rather inclined to portliness; his bulk being in- 
creased by the flowing robes of finest white silk which en- 
velope him from head to foot, leaving little exposed save his 
amorous face and a pair of yellow slippered feet beneath, 
usually minus stockings. 

"Rather cruel", one would 
say of his swar- 
thy face, perhaps 
because we know 
he has been the 
ruler of five mil- 
lion restless fan- 
atics, with whom 
cruelty is a most 
potent factor ; yet 
he can smile 
graciously as he 
extends his soft 
fat hand for the 
mulai el-hafid. k i s s o f some 

stranger who has craved the honor of an introduction. 

The Sultan is making a pilgrimage to Mecca, as all 




PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



19 



good Mussulman should, 
but from the reputation 
he bears in some quarters 
all his devotions will scarce 
suffice to atone for his 
transgressions. 

The Lord, however, is no 
respecter of persons, and 
the elements toss about 
whom they will ! 

Despite his wealth and 
station, I sincerely pitied 
poor Mulai, as he sat hud- 
dled in the depths of a 
steamer chair, looking de- 
cidedly uncomfortable as 
the "Elektra' 1 rocked and 
rolled; and the far-away 
look in his sensual eyes told 
only too plainly that he 
wished himself back in his 
dear old Morocco, beneath 
the nhade of seme sheltering 
grove of date palms, or rid- 
ing his white charger thru 
the streets cf Fez. 

We have still another 
passenger of note ; the Pa- 
triarch of Alexandria, a high dignitary of the Greek church. 
If a short description of this worthy cleric were required, 
I should liken him to a rag picker in gorgeous petticoats ! 
His grimy and untrimmed beard is a disgrace to behold, 
while the condition of his hair betokens a modern "Nazar- 
ite" who has adhered religiously to his vows. 

About his somewhat scant figure a black frock is close- 
lv buttoned, lined and trimmed with cherry pink silk, while 



MULAI-EL-HAFID came to the 
throne of Morocco as the result of 
a sucessful revolt which he waged 
against his brother, Abd-el-Aziz in 
1907 and 1908, appealing to his 
people as a leader of their anti- 
European sentiments. The "nobil- 
ity" of Morocco are the powerful 
tribal leaders, still independent and 
only nominal supporters of the gov- 
ernment — the chief seat of which 
is at Fez. The reigning princes 
have come from the Shareefian dyn- 
asty — being the most powerful 
leaders, and to this house both Abd- 
el-Aziz and Mulai belonged. 

In December, 1908, the powers of 
Europe recognized Mulai-el-Hafid 
as Sultan, although France and 
Spain had preserved a strict neu- 
trality during his efforts to secxire 
the throne, maintaining their Afri- 
can garrisons only to protect their 
national interests, as had been ar- 
ranged by treaty years before. 

Upon being established on the 
throne, however, Mulai-el-Hafid 
found it to his interests to have 
further European support — and 
despite his antagonistic attitude of 
earlier years, gladly welcomed the 
advances of French diplomacy and 
capital. When, in January. 1911, a 
counter revolution broke out. and 
Mulai was besieged in Fez, his cap- 
ital, he appealed openly for French 
military aid. This was promptly 
forthcoming, and the French expe- 
dition came to his relief in May. 
1911, causing the revolutionists un- 
der their chieftains to retire. Mulai- 
el-Hafid now signified his desire of 
abdicating in favor of his younger 
brother Mulai Yusef. feeling his own 
position untenable and the future 
precarious. On August 11th, 1912, 
after s till further entrusting his 
country to the businesslike protec- 
torate of the French, he turned 
over the throne to Yusef — being 
allowed by the French a cash pay- 
ment equivalent to $80,000.00 and 
the promise of an annuity of seventy 
thousand dollars for the remainder 
of his days. The position of France 
in Morocco is now similar to that of 
England in Eg\pt. 



20 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



from his neck is suspended an immense cross of gold, richly 
jeweled. 

What a singular character study he presents as he as- 
cends to the upper deck, with a long cheap cigar tightly 
gripped between two rows of discolored teeth. And just then 
a bit of breeze sets the tails of his frock fluttering, display- 
ing for our edification a pair of brilliant red stockings ! 

Could any combination be more ludicrous ? 




HARBOR OF BEYROUT. 



About two o'clock in the afternoon we are cheered by 
the sight of the coast of Syria. It is a hilly coastline too, 
this first bit of the Holy Land to meet our eyes — hills as far 
as we can see, and away back in the interior, rising above the 
lesser hills, is the majestic summit of Mount Hermon, the 
highest point of the Lebanon range. 

The favorable situation of Beyrout well befits the chief 
seaport of Palestine. A rocky promintory juts out into the 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



21 



Mediterranean, behind which lies the town and harbor. For 
a European country the harbor might appear insignificant, 
but in comparison with the miserable facilities of Jaffa and 
Haifa, we find in Beyrout much to please us. 

Seen from 
the sea, Bey- 
r o u t pre- 
sents a de- 
cidedly a t- 
tractive ap- 
pearance. 

The new 
cream color- 
e d houses 
with red tile 
roofs, thick- 
ly grouped 
upon the hill 
side, the ex- 
tensive buil- 
dings of the 
several colle- 
ges and hos- 
pitals here located, with spires of churches and convents, al- 
most persuade us that we are in some port of the Riviera. 

Anchored in the harbor are several merchant vessels, 
and the entire place possesses an air of hospitality and pros- 
perity which at once sets at ease some of our preconceived 
notions of Oriental squalor. 

The interest of the tourist, however, is at once attracted 
by two sunken vessels lying in the roadstead, reminding an 
American of the ill-fated Maine at Havana. These two hulks 
are the Turkish gunboats sunk by the Italians in 1912. 
Through the funnel of the larger wreck is seen a jagged hole, 
attesting to the marksmanship of the enemy. 

Our fellow passengers are preparing to disembark, and 




SUNKEN TURKISH GUNBOAT. 



22 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



all is hustle and bustle aboard the "Elektra", when presently 
a puffing tug comes out from behind the mole, headed our 
way, with whistle tooting merrily. Just as our anchor is run 
out the tug comes alongside, and we learn the reason for the 
demonstration. It is all in honor of the Sultan. In the stern 
of the tug a gorgeous rug has been spread, and a cushion 
covered divan improvised, — all is in readiness to c onvey the 
potentate to shore. The French 
consul and the Turkish digni- 
taries of the Port come aboard 
and pay their respects to the 
Sultan, who has now com- 
pletely recovered from his 
"mal-de-mere", and with be- 
coming dignity receives their 
greetings. After final felicita- 
tions with our officers, and a 
parting bestowal of eagerly 
awaited "bakshish", he de- 
scends into the waiting tender, 
and is conveyed ashore in re- 
gal fashion. 

After a short interval a 
second barge comes for his 
baggage and retinue. An as- 
tonishing number of trunks 
and boxes are lowered, but my 
companion explains thatMou- 
lai has been shopping in Cairo 
and Alexandria, and is carry- 
ing his purchases with him on 
his journey. 

But presently the final act 
of the comedy is perpetrated. 
Last of all the royal party, af- 
ter baggage and servants have 



BEYROUT or Beirut is a place 
of great antiquity, usually identified 
with the Bervtus referred to in the 
Tell el- 'Amarna letters. It is prob- 
able that by the end of the 15th 
century B. C., this portion of Syria 
was governed by tributary princes 
depending largely upon the Egyp- 
tian Pharaohs, yet under the in- 
fluence of Babylonian culture. For 
a time, at least, Beyrout was under 
the supremacy of Sidon. It is not 
named in the history of the cam- 
paigns of Alexander. Destroyed by 
Trvpho. the Syrian usurper, about 
1^0 B. C, it was restored by the 
elder Agrippa about 41 A. D., raised 
to the rank of a Roman colony, and 
adorned with an amphitheatre and 
various splendid buildings. In the 
middle of the 3rd century, a Roman 
school of law. which afterward be- 
came very celebrated, began to flour- 
ish here. ' During the reign of Justi- 
nian, in fact, Beyrout, was the on- 
ly place in the empire, except Rome 
and Constantinople, where law was 
permitted to be taught, The city 
early became famous for its silk 
manufacture, which was thence car- 
ried to Greece, and afterward from 
Greece to Sicily. In the sixth cen- 
tury an earthquake destroyed the 
town, and in 635 it was taken by 
the Moslems. 

During the crusades Beyrout a- 
gain rose into importance, and was 
captured by Baldwin I in 1111, af- 
ter a two month's siege. For one 
hundred and eighty years thereafter, 
with one or two brief intervening 
periods of Moslem occupancy — it 
was in the possession of the Crus- 
aders. ^ 

Earlv in the 17th Century it be- 
came a' chief seat of the Druses, and 
was the favorite residence of Fak- 
hreddin, who succeeded in found- 
ing an independent kingdom for 
himself in alliance with the Vene- 
tians — the natural enemies of the 
Turks. He favored the native Chris- 
tians and promoted trade. Becoming 
once more a possession of the Turks 
in 1763 — it was bombarded and 
plundered bv a Russian fleet in 
1772, and in 1840 it was nearly 
destroved by the attack of the Eng- 
lish, under Admiral Stopford. 

After the massacres of the Chris- 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 23 

been taken ashore, comes the 
time for the departure of the 
women. A third barge is in 
waiting, and down the sway- 
ing gang-way the ladies are 
escorted. Like animated bun- 
dles of silk they look, as they 
step gingerly down the un- 
steady stairs, with now and 
then a stiffled scream. Closely 
veiled as they are, we get but a glimpse of dark eyes and 
dusky faces. 

In fact, one of these Moroccan concubines is positively 
ebony in hue, but what matters color where royalty is con- 
cerned ? 

This little incident, however, is typical of Oriental chi- 
valry; man first, then baggage, then wives ! What a con- 
trast to conditions at home, where no man, poor and unlet- 
tered though he be, would dream of such neglect and un- 
concern ! 

It is late in the afternoon before we get ashore, and take 
our places in the long line at the "Douane" or Custom 
House. To our surprise, the Sultan's ladies are waiting as 
well, although Mulai is well taken care of, without a 
doubt. 

A score of rickety victorias wait outside to convey the 
traveler to his hotel, but the porters who importune you are 
much more interesting. Without hesitation 
they will undertake to carry preposterously 
heavy burdens, utilizing straps or long- 
bands of cloth which they pass over the 
trunks and bags upon their backs and bind 
across their foreheads as a further means of 
support. 

Over the cobble-paved streets of the 
lower town we followed our heavily laden 




tians in 1860, France, as the guar- 
dian of Roman Catholic interests 
sent a body of troops to protect the 
Christians in Syria. After that in- 
tervention, the Lebanon district was 
formed into an independent Liwa, 
the governor of which was appointed 
for five years with the consent of the 
Great European Powers, and was 
required to profess the Christian re- 
ligion. 

In February, 1912, the Italians 
bombarded the harbor, destroying 
two Turkish war-ships. 

Numerous Christians have settled 
at Beyrout, and the place has of 
late been steadily growing in extent 
and commercial importance. 




24 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



guide, bending low beneath his load; then up through 
_________ narrow bazars and still 

~~ I narrower lanes, where 




_J SHIP BUILDING SCENE, 

the few dimly burning lamps barely saved us, half a dozen 
times, from "falling up-stairs". I use this term because 
many of Beyrout's lanes are not lanes m reality, but stair- 
ways similar in many respects to portions of Naples and 
other old-world cities, although quite uncommon in our own 

land. , £ 

It is the Germans to whom thanks must be given tor the 
good hotels of Palestine. In Egypt we had found British in- 
fluence everywhere supreme, but in Palestine we soon dis- 
cover that it is German capital and German brains which 
have taken advantage of every opportunity, and improved 
conditions in a manner which is truly surprising. 

Sitting down, at last, to an appetizing dinner upon the 
roof of a well equipped hotel, with German and French 
spoken at every table, it is impossible to realize that we are 
indeed in Asia Minor, and that the lustrous moon shining 
benignantly down upon us is, at the same instant, shedding 
its rays over Jerusalem and Baghdad, Cairo and Antioch, 
Cyprus and Tarsus ! 

The faculty of quickly "sizing up" a town and "getting 
the lay of the land" becomes a habit with the traveler. He 
usually makes his way at the start to the "public square", if 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



25 



such it may be called, and most towns have some sort of a 
pivotal point, from which all roads radiate, and where the 
visitor may get his bearings. 

In the Place de l'Union we find Beyrout's centre of ac- 
tivity, from which four lines of tram cars, varying in color, 
provide agreeable means of conveyance to the suburbs; to 
the Light House at Ras Beyrout 




PLACE DE L' UNION. 

on the promintory, or the "pines" on the Damascus 
Road. 

In Beyrout the picturesque old time life and the dreamy 
dullness of the Orient have been disturbed by the commer- 
cialism of the Occident, and here we find a curious combina- 
tion; electric cars and camels, mosques and "cinema" shows, 
coffee houses and beer gardens ! 

There are many tumble-down houses in Beyrout, and 
the marvel of it is the fact that they have remained so long- 
in this state of dilapidation. Upon the principal thorough- 
fare are entire rows of houses whose stone fronts have fallen 
half a century ago, — some of them mementos of the bom- 



26 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



bardment of 1840. The ground floor bazars are, of course, 
occupied, but in many cases the upper floors seem to have 
been given over to utter desolation. 

J A few of the buildings damaged in 1912 have been re- 
paired with crude wooden fronts, yet these "temporary" fa- 




OLD HOUSES. 



cades 
will in 
a 1 1 pro- 
babi 1 i t y 
remain undisturbed 
for years. To an 
American this seems 
incomprehensible. At home we pull down obsolete struc- 
tures to make room for the "up-to-date", but in the Otto- 
man East dry rot and disrepair seem to be the order of the 
day. 

Yet Bey rout is a vast improvement over a purely Or- 
iental town in many respects.Here the Syrians, Armenians 
and Greeks who outnumber the Mohammedans, attend to 
their own affairs, and you are not pestered continually by 
officious guides or peddlers, while a European or an Ameri- 
can passes through the streets without attracting the slight- 
est attention. 

The streets of Beyrout are thronged with hundreds of ap- 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



27 



parently famished dogs of the u ydk> w - cur " type. They are 
the scavengers of all Oriental towns, ready alike to eat the 
crumbs that fall from the rich man's table or to lick the sores 
of Lazarus. Here in Beyrout they have both opportunities. 
Absolutely ownerless, they run about at large, picking up a 
precarious living in alleys and gutters, yet one may see them 
sleeping peacefully under sheds and carts, thin and gaunt, 
but perhaps a great deal happier than the chained and 
blanketed pets of society. 




A CORNER OF BEYROUT. 

We cannot get away from America ! Passing between 
the busy shops which almost choke the narrow thorough- 
fares, we hear the piercing sound of a phonograph, while 
familiar signs frequently attract us. For instance, a "Fels- 
Naptha Soap" placard adorns the crowded window of a Syr- 
ian delicatessen ; while in the principal street a Remington 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



■ > ■(!! il'iv * 




HOUSE TOPS OF BEYROUT. 

Typewriter Agency and a "Walk-Over" shoe store bring back 
memories of home. As if to forcibly impress said memories 
upon us, we are, a little later, almost run down by a rattling 
wagon laden with "Borden's Anglo-Swiss Milk". These 
household words and names help make the 'whole world 

kin'. . 

Even as I sat one evening writing up my diary lor 
transmission by the morning post, I heard below my win- 
dow the shrill notes of an amateur fifer. And the air he 
played was America ! But wait, — perhaps it was "God 
Save the King" ! At any rate, the tune is familiar, and the 
little fellow, for only a boy could produce such an effect, has 
one appreciative listener. 

An institution of learning always lends to a town the 
atmosphere of culture, and Beyrout possesses a certain dis- 
tinction from the location here of the world famous Syrian 
Protestant College, more frequently referred to as the 
"American College", founded in 1866. 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



29 



This splendid group of buildings is situated to the West 
of the town, overlooking beautiful St. George's bay. A 
walk of a 
mile, or a 
short trolley 
ride, brings 
the visitor 
to the en- 
trance gate. 

No sooner 
do we pass 
the portal 
and enter 
the campus, 
than we 




feel the 
"college in- 
fl u e n c e" ; 
that same 
i n spiration 
which comes 
I t o us a t 
j Princ e t o n 
when stand- 
j in g before 
I old ivy-cov- 
ered "N a s- 
sau Hall." 

Here are attractive study halls and dormitory buildings; the 



THE CAMPUS. 



30' 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



hospital, the chapel, the athletic field; all set m a lovely park 
upon the hillside. The yellow tinted limestone of the build- 
ings seems to create a natural harmony with the surrounding 
cypress or sycamore trees, to which an occasional palm gives 
the added charm of the tropics. 

Here many native Syrians are educated along profes- 
sional lines, while other students come from all parts of the 
Mediterranean's border lands. The college is non-sectarian, 
and its labors are entirely along educational, social and com- 
mercial lines 
B e y r o u t, 
however, is 
the home of 
scores of 
other religi- 
ous schools, 
and from 
this coast 
town a con- 
stant stream 
of teachers, 
p r e a c hers 
and physic- 
ians fi o w s 
out to heal, 
comfort and 

cultivate these classic lands. The time of our visit was sum- 
mer, and a period of vacation; therefore we found most ol 
the college buildings deserted. 

In our wanderings through the well kept grounds, we 
paused with interest before a solitary column near the 
chapel It is a relic of ancient Roman days, found near the 
shore of the bay, and here mounted on a pedestal. Beyrout 
contains few objects of antiquity, and the lonely column 
consequently presents an instant appeal. 

The "Serai" is the Oriental name for the municipal 




COLUMN AND CHAPEL 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



31 



building and police headquarters. In our own country there 
has been a great prison reform movement in recent years, 
and as we visited the Beyrout jail in the Place de TUnion it 
seemed an exceedingly "Osbornian" institution. 

The building encloses a quadrangular courtyard, upon 
which open several barred doorways. Here the prisoners 




A MORNING VISITOR. 



converse with relatives or friends; cigarettes and eatables 
are passed in between the gratings, and a general air of so- 
ciability prevails. The shady side of the courtyard is always 
thronged with visitors, whereas the sunny side is well nigh 
deserted. The prisoners on this side of the building are 
forced to wait until afternoon before their friends come. My 
picture, taken in the morning hours, shows but one woman 
standing there. Above is seen the stairway leading to the 
courtrooms, where justice is dispensed to-day in much the 
same fashion as by the old time "Cadi" of the Arabian 
Nights. 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



Games of chance delight the idlers of Beyrout. I have 
seen groups of young men sit for hours at a backgammon 
board, or squat upon some paved courtyard around a chalk- 
drawn square, maneuvering black and white beans. Need- 
less to say, a quiet game of dice throwing is a source of never 
failing interest to the youthful boot-blacks. These Syrian 
boys are everywhere in evidence, most of them attractive 
little fellows, with eyes set well apart and fringed with 
heavy lashes, and ever ready with a grin of gratitude in ap- 
preciation of your generosity. They have no union, and no 
scale of prices; a shine is yours for a thin and battered 
"metallik" or a silver five piastre piece. As to clothes, — 
well anything goes! They wear shirts so plentifully 
patched that nothing is left of the original garment. But 
this is a matter of no concern; more patches will yet be 
added • the garment being continually renewed, but alas — 
infrequently washed ! Mark Twain would, I suppose, refer 
to these shirts as "family heirlooms !" 

A most charm- 
ing excursion is 
afforded by the 
trip to Dog Ri- 
ver, a few 
miles from Bey- 
rout. 

A little rivu- 
let empties in- 
to the Bay 
through a pic- 
turesque moun- 
tain defile. 

The spot is 
historic. 

Through this 
gap in the hills 
have passed 




DOG RIVER. 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



33 



the hosts of Egypt and Assyria, Roman legionaries and 
Crusading knights ; for along this ravine a road has existed 
from earliest times. Above the railway bridge an at- 
tractive modern viaduct spans the stream, at each end of 
which is a refreshment pavilion. 

But the interest centers not in the river itself; or the 
valley through which it flows, but on the cliffs facing the 




TWO OF THE INSCRIPTIONS. 



sea, upon the rugged faces of which have been carved a 
series of wonderfully fascinating inscriptions, memorials of 
the conquerors of antiquity who have passed this way, and, 
in passing, have stopped to leave the indelible stamp of their 
achievements. 

What an illustration is here given us of the march of cen- 
turies! We see again the familiar and unmistakable hiero- 
glyphics of Egypt, in panels deeply cut into the rock, com- 
memorating the exploits of Sesostris, the mighty Rameses 
the second. Mighty indeed he seemed when first we saw his 



34 PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



wealth of monuments in Egypt, and now he appears even 
more impressive as again we come face to face with in- 
dubitable proof of his campaign in this region, twelve centu- 
ries before the birth of Christ ! 

Yet we have looked upon the face of this self same 
Pharaoh with feelings of most profound pity; as we pon- 
dered over his withered mummy in the silent halls of the 
Cairo museum. Oh, vanity of human greatness ! The eyes 
which flashed defiance to the world are closed and sunken ; 
the head which wore the double crown now possesses no 
adornment save a few whitened locks, turned to yellow by 
the fluid of the embalmers ; while the hand which ruled the 
greatest nation of antiquity, now deprived of its sceptre, 
seems raised in impotent protest; while throngs of curious 
tourists, dirty natives and unsympathetic aliens lean upon 
the protecting case, and gaze upon his tenantless earthly 
chrysalis ! 

There are upward of a dozen inscriptions here, one or two 
in Latin and Greek, but the majority commemorating the 
valor of the Assyrian monarchs, among whom are Shalman- 
eser II and Tiglath-Pileser III. Singularly enough, beside 
the finest of Rameses' Egyptian panels, there was added 
about 670 B. C. that of the Assyrian King Esarhaddon, rep- 
resented in cap and curly beard : he it was who in turn con- 
quered a portion of Egypt ! Side by side, graven upon the 
hard basaltic cliff, they have looked out over the same rest- 
less sea for almost three millenniums, — mid Springtime and 
harvest, dawn and sunset, storm and calm ! 

Yet the slow passing centuries have exacted their due. 
In many instances, while the general outlines are very ap- 
parent, the cuneiform characters of Babylon and the hier- 
oglyphics of the Pharaohs are now scarce discernible. 

As for myself, the Dog River promontory can never 
be forgotten ! Not even at the Pyramids or beside the 
Colosseum did I so deeply realize my own insignificance; 
and this, I think, must have been the conviction of the 



PORT SAID TO BEYROUT 



35 



thousands of others who like myself, have come hither, and 
wondered and speculated, and then passed on, never to re- 
turn; like the swift fleeting clouds, which, ere I said fare- 
well, had passed before the setting sun ! 



0mmr HE actual distance from Beyrout to Damascus is less 
lt\ than sixty miles, yet from nine to eleven hours are 
^ consumed by the railway journey over the Lebanon 
mountains. 

Two through-trains in each direction are operated over 
the road, which covers almost a hundred miles with its 
windings in and out among the hills. 

We left the harbor station at Beyrout late in the even- 
ing. Into our compartment we were hastily bundled, finding 
our traveling companions for the night already in their 
places. There were two French gentlemen, merchants en- 
route for Damascus, both exceedingly affable and accom- 
modating, and a good natured German woman, who, as we 
learned later, was the proprietress of a hotel at Baalbek. 

Ere the train got into motion, a four cornered conver- 
sation in more or less grammatical German was in progress, 



DAMASCUS 



37 




TRAIN WAITING AT STATION IN LEBANON MOUNTAINS 

and we felt sure that so far as sociability was concerned we 
should not lack. And in railway coaches of this sort com- 
panionable neighbors are appreciated, for the entire train 
is composed of old-time discarded European cars, the com- 
partments of which are closed and locked, and therefore be- 
come your little world between stations. Fortunately these 
stations occur at frequent intervals, affording the weary 
and cramped passenger an opportunity to get out and 
stretch his legs, or get a bite to eat if so inclined. Stops are 
usually prolonged, and frequent whistles and rings precede 
the resumption of the journey, so a traveler must be de- 
liberately negligent to be left behind. 

It is mid- August, yet the mountain atmosphere be- 
comes uncomfortably chilly as we ascend the pass and cross 
the first ridge. In the small hours of the morning a stop is 
made at Reyak, the junction point for Aleppo and Baalbek. 
Here our kindly "frau" takes leave of us, with a most cordial 
invitation to come on to Baalbek before leaving Damascus. 

Just about this time, the idea of luncheon seems attrac- 
tive. One of my French friends leaves the car for a moment, 
returning presently with a mysterious something which ap- 
pears to be a portion of cream cheese wrapped in paper. 



38 



DAMASCUS 



This delicacy, to which is added our individual lunches, is 
spread upon the now vacant seat opposite, and we "fall to". 
Presently to my consternation, M. Blanc, tearing off a sec- 
tion of the "paper" in which his newly purchased cheese is 
wrapped, proceeds to eat it with evident relish ! But to my 
horrified inquiries he answers reassuringly that it is not 
paper but bread ! And then I also must needs sample this 
"bread", resembling a calf-skin drumhead, which I find to 
be rather tough, but never-the-less palatable. It seems that 
the mountaineers hereabouts are very partial to these thin 
slices of the "staff of life". They plaster their dough upon 
the outside of an iron oven, quickly baking the sheets alter 
the manner of griddle cakes. Some travelers refer to this 
dainty as "leather bread". (< 

With the break of day we are entering the Anti Lib- 
anus" the secondary or inland range of hills. It is a region 
of great beauty and fertility, and as we proceed the view 
from the windows of the train increases m lovlmess. On all 
sides are groves of fig trees, carefully cultivated, while 
grapes, apples, pomegranites and plums here attain perfec- 
tion. At every station stop crowds of venders offer us re- 
freshments, 
and certain- 
ly a bunch 
o f luscious 
grapes or a 
tiny basket 
of plums 
makes a n 
appe tiz ing 
dessert. 

The scen- 
ery becomes 
more and 
more i m- 




THE AE ANA — "RIVER OF DAMASCUS" 



DAMASCUS 



39 



pressive, the mountains again 
close in upon us, and we tra- 
verse a deep gorge. A little 
stream hurries along between 
the green trees and gardens in 
the valley below. It is none 
other than the Abana, the "ri- 
ver of Damascus", referred to 
in the Old Testament account 
of the healing of Naaman the 
Syrian ! 

We are indeed nearing Da- 
mascus, and the approach to 
the oldest city in the world is 
most charming, for as we de- 
scend into the green tableland, 
we obtain a delightful pano- 
rama of domes, minarets, and 
flat roofed houses, clustered in 
a valley of emerald. Truly the 
old Arab poets were not ex- 
travagant in their praises of 
Damascus, for it must indeed 
have seemed to them a bit of 
paradise here below, a verita- 
ble "Garden of Allah", situat- 
ed as it is in a well watered 
plain, yet only a few miles dis- 
tant from the edge of the great 
desert, which, traversed by the 
age-old caravan route, stret- 
ches Eastward toward the land 
of Iran ! 

We pull into the Beramkeh 
station; two antiquated cabs 
are requisitioned for the three 



The History of DAMASCUS is 
practically that of the Eastern world. 
It has been asserted that Damas- 
cus is the oldest city in the world, 
from the fact of its having main- 
tained a continuous existence for 
nearly five thousand years. 

Founded away back in the misty 
days of antiquity by "Uz. son of 
Aram," according to Josephus, we 
find it mentioned several times in 
the Biblical Old Testament. "Elie- 
zer of Damascus" was a steward 
of Abraham, according to the Gen- 
esis, and we find in the later histor- 
ical books numerous references to 
the city and its rulers ; sometimes 
in alliance with the Jews, but more 
frequently opposing them or ravag- 
ing their territory, - — ■ as when Ha- 
zael devasted the East Jordan re- 
gion and forced the king of Judah 
to purchase the immunity of Jeru- 
salem. (2 Kings XII, 17-18.) 

In the second half of the eighth 
century B. C, Ahaz, king of Judah, 
obtained the aid of the Assyrian 
monarch Tiglath-pileser III against 
his Damascene enemies, thereby 
weakening his own prestige, how- 
ever, and paving the way for a gen- 
eral Babylonian conquest of all Pal- 
estine. 

Alexander found Damascus thor- 
oughly Assyrian, rich with the treas- 
ures of Darius, and, having an- 
nexed it to his great Macedonian 
empire in 333 B. C, it fell at his 
death into the possession of the 
Seleucidae. 

In the first century B. C. Damas- 
cus figured prominently in the feuds 
between Parthian and Armenian 
monarchs. Tigranes I, probably the 
most interesting and ambitious fig- 
ure of the period, maintained his 
hold over this portion of Syria for 
a time ; but after its capture by 
Pompey and his Romans in 64 B. C. 
he entered into a discretionary peace 
with the victors. 

Damascus remained in Roman 
hands for centuries thereafter, al- 
though it appears, from a reference 
in 2 Cor. XI, 32, that Aretas, an 
Arabian prince, held sway there at 
the time of Paul's conversion. His- 
tory is rather obscure in this re- 
gard, with some discrepancies as to 
the exact chronology, but it is usual- 
ly conceded that Aretas, taking ad- 
vantage of disturbed affairs at Rome 
following the death of Tiberias, 
pushed up from the Arabian pe- 
ninsula and held the city for a 
short interval. 

Under Trajan, 98 — 117 A. D., 
Damascus became firmly estab- 
lished as a Roman provincial city 
of importance, and later an impor- 
tant outpost of the Byzantines. 

Christianity early gained a strong 
footing here, perhaps owing to the 
earnest preaching of Paul and his 
followers. Theodosius and Justin- 
ian embellished the city with church- 



40 



DAMASCUS 



es, but it again suffered severely in 
the course of the conflicts with the 
Persians in the early years of the 
seventh century. 

With the rise of Mohammedanism, 
Damascus entered upon the most 
brilliant epoch in her eventful his- 
tory. Always frequented by Arabs, 
it was natural that the conquering 
Moslems should almost immediately 
seek to make Damascus a seat of 
religious as well as political su- 
premacy. The decisive battle be- 
tween the Christian Greeks and the 
Moslems was fought in the valley 
of the Yarmuk leading up to the ta- 
bleland from the South, and the 
siege and capture of the city were 
inevitable. (635 A. D.) 

Moslem factions alternately fought 
and wrangled over Damascus or a- 
dorned and beautified her. The 
Omaiyades, Abbasides, Tulunides 
and ' Fatimites successively ruled 
here, while in 1705-6 the city fell 
into the hands of the Seljuks. 

In 1126, and again in 1148 and 
1177 the city was threatened and 
even besieged* by the Crusaders, but 
always managed to beat off the 
Frankish hosts or to purchase its 
immunity. Here S?ladin for a time 
maintained his headquarters, and 
here he died in 1193. 

Toward the end of the thirteenth 
century the Mongols under Hulagu 
took the city, only to lose it again 
to the Egyptian Mamelukes. 

In 1399 or 1401 Tamerlane (Ti- 
mur) the greatest of all the Tartar 
pillagers, appeared before the city. 
An enormous sum of gold was de- 
manded of and paid by the citi- 
zens. Some historians say that Ti- 
mur violated his agreement and de- 
vasted the city notwithstanding; but 
it is certain that he carried away to 
his own dominions the most skill- 
ful artisans and craftsmen, and 
there established them. 

The year 1516 marks the be- 
ginning* of purely Ottoman rule, 
when Sultan Selim annexed Da- 
mascus to his empire. 

The temporary occupancy of the 
city in 1832 bv the dashing Ibrahim 
Pasha of Egypt, fighting against 
his co-religionists the Turks, opened 
up the place to the representatives 
of the European powers. For a 
score of years thereafter the foreign 
merchants and tradesmen freely set- 
tled here, and schools and missions 
were established. Then came the 
last great tragedy, the massacre of 
1860, when the Moslem fanatics, 
with the evident connivance of the 
authorities, set upon the inhabi- 
tants of the Christian quarter and 
at least 6000 perished from fire, 
sword and privation. 

The churches and dwellings have, 
however, been long since rebuilt, 
and the foreign element rests se- 
cure, with influence and efforts for 
community betterment ever on tne 
increase. 



of us, plus baggage, and in a 
trice we whirl out of the sta- 
tion enclosure, rattle through 
the adjacant cemetery, cross 
the Abana, and are deposited 
before the door of our hotel 
with scarce an opportunity for 
enjoying the looked-for "first 
impressions" of the city. 

The initial thrill I think, 
came to me as I was ushered 
into my chamber at the Palace 
Hotel. The clay was sultry, 
but a delightful coolness and 
quiet pervaded the house. I 
say quiet, advisedly, for this 
is not the traveling season, and 
scarcely half a dozen guests 
are lodged in the building. The 
heavy wooden blinds at the 
windows of my room were, for 
my further comfort, opened 
from the bottom, awning-like, 
— and up from the street be- 
low came the familiar babel of 
the city, delightfully near at 
hand, yet dream-like in its un- 
obtrusiveness. 

But it was the draperies, 
couch coverings and window 
hangings which caught my 
eye immediately. The pic- 
turesque patterns of the Ori- 
ent, — stripes of dark reds and 
blues, with an occasional 
thread cf silver, were blended 



DAMASCUS 



41 



with exquisite taste, and my first and incontrollable desire 
was to sally forth at once, and purchase yards and yards of 
this beautiful stuff with which to bedeck my little "cozy 
corner" at home. To see a bit of Damascus goods in Damas- 
cus — or a Persian rug in Teheran — seems a lot more inter- 
esting than buying the same article in New York's Fifth 
Avenue. 




THE '"SOUK EL KH A R R ATI N" . 

Damascus has for thousands of years been preeminently 
a city of commerce. As a station of the great overland 
caravan trade with the East, the city has occupied a position 
of unusual importance from remotest times. In Roman 
days wealth literally flowed into her coffers, while in the 
golden age cf Moslem conquest, califs and sultans wrangled 
for her possession. 

The merchants of Venice knew Damascus better than 
London, and even to-day, despite lost prestige, her unique 



42 



DAMASCUS 



products are universally esteemed. Had not the Portugese 
navigators "rounded the Horn" and diverted her commerce, 
Damascus might have been the richest city in the world, at 
least until quite recent times. 

The population of Damascus is usually placed at 
300,000. The Damascenes are very fond of their city, being 
at the same time proud and ignorant, and, of course, notor- 
iously fanatic ; yet it seems to the visitor that the old time 
spirit of "trafficking" is in the very air of Damascus. The 
people seem to do naught else but buy and sell, and the 
stranger from the Occident takes away the impression that 
half the population are shop-keepers. There are miles and 
miles of bazars, and one scarcely sees a building which is not 
devoted to the purposes of either store or shop. 

The one modern monument in Damascus to attract the 
euriousity of all is that in the Place du Serai commemorating 
the completion of the telegraph line to Mecca. Even Mos- 



lems have be- 
dox! for their 
'graven image' 
which in for- 
th eir art and 
ing lax ; in 
al s p le n d i d 
true, however, 




THE TELEGRAPH MONUMENT. 



come in a measure unortho- 
strict obedience to the 
warning in the decalogue, 
mer times circumscribed 
architecture, is now becom- 
Cairo, especially, are sever- 
equestrian statues. It is 
that many of the followers 
of the prophet 
look with ab- 
horrence upon 
these "innova- 
tions." 

Damascus has 
one tramway 
line, — the lit- 
tle brown cars 
traversing the 
city from end 



DAMASCUS 



43 




A TYPICAL MOSQUE. 



to end, from the Southern 
suburb of the Meidan to the 
foothills of the Jebel Kasyun. 

There are over two hundred 
mosques in Damascus; at the 
turn of every corner one may 
see within a short distance 
some tapering minaret with its 
lofty railed balcony, upon 
which the muezzin stands and 
proclaims the hour of prayer. 
With " cuckoo clock" regularity 
these loud voiced intoners of 
devotion perform their office 
and vanish in almost comic 
fashion, and the spectator is 
apt to laugh to himself. Yet 
to the thoughtful mind there 
is a sublimity and pathos in this weird call to prayer floating- 
over the turmoil of an Orient city like unto that which 
comes with the ringing of the Angelus over the fields of Brit- 
tany or the evening "bells of Shandon !" 

The river Abana — the modern Barada — which we 
saw among the mountains, flows peacefully enough through 
Damascus, spanned by several substantial bridges of steel ; 
scarcely wider than a canal and in Summer very shallow. 
After watering, with its tributaries, the fertile plain of Da- 
mascus, rich in orchards and vineyards, it loses itself in the 
so-called "Meadow Lakes" about eighteen miles to the East 
of the city. 

As I opened up my little kodak to take a snap-shot of 
the native sifting gravel in the bed of the stream, it seemed 
impossible that this insignificant little creek had been the 
center of a civilization extending for a period of nearly five 
thousand years ! 

"Are not Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, bet- 



44 



DAMASCUS 



ter than all the rivers of Israel" ? queried Naaman the Syri- 
an. To us who have seen the majestic Hudson or the swift- 
flowing Mississippi, they all appear as mere brooks; but if 
history enhances the value of a rivulet — then the shallow 
Abana counts for more than the mighty Amazon. 




THE ABANA — MORE HISTORIC THAN BEAUTIFUL. 

No one can lay claim to a thorough knowledge of hu- 
manity until he has visited the East, and of all the diverting 
experiences which fall to the lot of the traveler, none are 
more enlightening than a walk through the native bazars. 

At Gibraltar most of us have gotten a touch of the 
spectacular in merchandizing. In Cairo the visitor usually 
says to himself, "This is the East — in truth there can be 
nothing more unique !" But I think Damascus has just 
a bit more of the "outlandish"; fewer Europeans are en- 



DAMASCUS 



45 




countered, and the added infusion of that Asiatic something, 
makes of Damascus one strange, tempting bargain counter. 
Here you may forget yourself and rummage around among 
curios and antiquities, textiles and trinkets to your heart's 
content. It is said 
that the ways of 
living and of 
doing business in 
and around Da- 
mascus have never 
changed, so a walk 
through Damascus 
is like being taken 
out of your twenti- 
eth century self 
and carried back 
under some magic 
spell to one of your 
"previous existen- 
ces." This you can 
ponder over if you 
lean to the Oriental 
reincarnation ideas 
— but if, on the 
contrary, you are a 
practical, matter- 
of-fact American, you'll have a delightful time just the same. 

The red "fez", or tarboosh, is as common in the East 
as the derby in our own land. All Turkish business men of 
the better class wear them. These hats of red felt are 
blocked out on heated forms of brass, varying in style, and 
then lined with a soft woven grass. In Damascus, there- 
fore, I discarded my cork helmet and decided to purchase a 
tarboosh, thinking to pass for a Syrian and thereby escape 
the importunities of beggars and native tradesmen. But 
my reckoning was sadly at fault : I had no mustache or 



A SHOEMAKER. 



46 



DAMASCUS 



beard ! No self-respecting Syrian or Moslem would go 
clean shaven, so I was, of course, marked as a foreigner. The 
American idea of "keeping young as long as possible" is in- 
comprehensible to the Oriental mind. Boys of fifteen usu- 
ally have a mustache; at twenty-five a beard, if by good 
fortune they can raise one, — and at thirty-five they are 
amusing their grandchildren ! 

Life in Damascus goes on amid a babel of noise. Ped- 
dlers and venders of lemonade and licorice-water continually 
and loudly extol the merits of their beverages, while donkeys, 
camels and dogs crowd the streets and add to the general 
confusion. No one keeps to the sidewalks; perhaps because 
most of the streets have none; and to elbow, push and 
dodge is the order of the day. Everyone is busy. It may 
be that the life of the 
East is slow, but it is 
not idle in Damascus. 
When a merchant is at 
leisure he sometimes 
reads the Koran, re- 
peats his prayers, hires 
a nargileh from one of 
the itinerant smoke 
purveyors, or chats a- 
micably with his 
neighbor. 

Apparently there is 
no jealousy between ri- 
val venders of similar 
wares. The Moslems 
are almost fatalistic in 
their philosophy. "Al- 
lah", they say, "has 
sent a good customer to 
my neighbor ; he will, in 




due time, send me one also 



A COFFEE SELLER. 



DAMASCUS 



47 



All of the streets of Damascus are narrow, and as the 
shop-keeper's awnings are not limited as to size, the streets 
are shady. More comfortable still, although I should ima- 
gine less sanitary, are the "covered-over" streets, which are 




A SWORD MAKER. 



entirely given over to bazars like the more pretentious " ar- 
cades" in some of the leading cities of Europe and America. 

A native shop is seldom more than a hole in the wall, 
and it veritably seems that the counters on which the goods 
are displayed and the space occupied by the owner, often 
sitting cross-legged on his bench, fill the little stall com- 
pletely. Hence, where the proprietor is engaged in manu- 



48 



DAMASCUS 



facturing his wares, all his work is done in view of the pas- 
ser-by, and here again is the charm of novelty. Our own 
workrooms are usually guarded by "No Admission", and it 
is intensely interesting to study the primitive yet skillful in- 
dustry of the Damascene artisans. 

The little wooden tabarets and boxes, inlaid with bits 
of mother-of-pearl in patterns of mosaic and parquetry, are 
charmingly wrought, while the makers of seals are past- 
masters of the art of engraving. The granter of a deed in 
the East completes it by adding his seal and not his signa- 
ture, and the signet engraver is a person of consequent im- 
portance. 

The sword-making industry is a thing of the past. A 
few workmen still ply their trade in Damascus, but most of 
the famous artisans who fashioned the keen blades of the 
days of chivalry were taken into the hill country of Asia 
Minor, where it is said a remnant of the craft still flourishes. 
While we watch our "sword-maker" fashioning an elaborate 
hilt let us not be deceived — it is more than probable that 
his "Damascus blade" was "Made in Germany". 

Continuing our walk, we pass a noisy shop where work- 
men are busily engaged in hammering out brass and copper 
vessels, from small finger bowls to immense trays richly 
adorned with filigree work and inscriptions. Still larger 
trays, sometimes six feet in diameter, are displayed. These, 
however, are not destined to be balanced upon the head of 
some dexterous waiter in the Moulin Rouge, but are merely 
dining tables, frequently used by the Bedouin peasants, sup- 
ported on low stools, and symbolic of their hospitality. 

There may be a great deal of distressing poverty in the 
East, but if a Moslem has any means whatever, he will cater 
to his stomach. Hence the baker's shops and booths of the 
pastry cooks and confectioners are well patronized. The 
"berazik" is thin wheaten bread, spread with butter and 
grape syrup, and sprinkled with sesame. This is an exceed- 
ingly popular delicacy. 



DAMASCUS 



49 



The "soda fountain" has its counterpart, of course, for 
the religion of Mohammed prohibits alcoholic drinks, and 
"soft drinks" of wondrous taste and doubtful composition 
are displayed. Yes, displayed is the right word, for large 
jars filled with liquors of brightest green, orange and violet 
tempt the thirsty like the colored globes of the village drug 
store at home. 




A CORNER OF DAMASCUS. 



Drinkables are carried about in goat skins by street 
purveyors. Frequently when a person of wealth is desirous 
of performing an act of charity, he pays one of these ped- 
dlers for his entire supply, and bids him refresh all comers 
without money and without price. Instantly a crowd gath- 
ers, and, nothing loath, the multitude avail themselves of 
the proffered bounty. 

The barbers of the Orient shave heads, not chins, which 



50 



DAMASCUS 



operation always makes a profound impression upon the 
tourist with a bald pate. This custom, although it spoils 
the looks of many a handsome boy, has its redeeming fea- 
tures. I have seen dirty urchins squatting upon the ground 
while a hard working barber performed his good offices, 
exemplifying, without a doubt, the famous commercial slo- 
gan " there's a reason". 




A WOOD TURNER. 

The methods employed by the wood turners have little 
changed since the days of Mohammed. The workman 
causes his lathe to revolve by pulling a string in alternate 
directions, while he industriously applies his chisel. Usually 
the feet as well as the hands are employed in this operation. 

How similar are the ways of humanity, after all ! While 
wending my way among the bazars my attention was at- 
tracted to a jostling crowd completely blocking the thor- 
oughfare. Joining myself unto the select company, I saw 



DAMASCUS 



51 



that some sort of "side show" was in progress within a de- 
crepit looking building. Upon a raised platform before the 
door was the cause of the excitement, an object well calcu- 
lated to attract the attention of the passer-by. A horribly 
painted Bedouin, his face and body streaked with green and 
yellow paint, was exhorting the throng, presumably upon 
the merits of the "greatest show on earth", while he fondled 
a wriggling snake entwined about his neck and shoulders ! 

The love for amusement is as old as the world, and is by 
no means confined to any particular race or clime. Yet, to 
my surprise, I find that the world's latest form of amuse- 
ment, the ever-popular "movies" has penetrated even to 
Damascus. Posters displayed on conspicuous corners tell of 
a blood-curdling drama illustrated by most alluring pic- 
tures, and the pictures are, moreover, the product of the 
"American Cinematograph Company" ! 



Turning into the 




ORIENTAL WEAVER AT WORK. 



52 



DAMASCUS. 




we again find ourselves 
surrounded by a confus- 
ing maze of shops and 
stores. Veiled women, 
shuffling natives, pros- 
perous looking merch- 
ants and gaudily attired 
desert tribesmen mingle 
with the tourists in 
charming contrast, ex- 
amining and haggling 
over rugs and shawls. 
To my mind the most 
tempting and pictures- 
que stalls are those of 
the dealers in silks and 
tapestries, particularly 
those in which we can 
see for ourselves the 
primitive hand looms in operation. The traveler never tires 
of watching the native weaver at work, with the shuttle 
thrown across the opening and closing warp by a dexterous 
movement of the hand, while thread by thread the eccentric 
pattern takes shape. 

It would at first appear that textiles so laboriously wov- 
en would be expensive, but such is not the case, and a few 
yards of the beautiful fabric thus made before your eyes af- 
fords a most pleasing and inexpensive souvenir of Damascus. 

In making purchases in Egypt and Palestine the coinage 
of almost all the nations of Europe may be used. French, 
German and English gold are everywhere current, while the 
large silver five-franc pieces of Napoleon III and even of 
Louis Philippe are occasionally met with. 

It is well known that tradesmen are ever ready to take 
advantage of a foreigner, and are particularly eager to 
"mulct" the proverbially extravagant American — so be on 



STRAIGHT STREET AND THE EAST GATE 



DAMASCUS 



53 



your guard : a little bargaining will usually bring down the 
price to a small fraction of that at first demanded. 

Fruit of all kinds is displayed in Damascus, tempting 
save for the omnipresent fly, whose everlasting buzz does 
not appeal to the fastidious Yankee. We look in vain for the 
familiar banana of our own stands, but here will be found 
an abundance of grapes, plums, pomegranites and melons, 
with delicious figs, dates, pistachio nuts and the inevitable 
"prickly pear", which is the staple article of diet for the 
native housewife. In shape it reminds one of a thorn cov- 
ered cucumber, while its taste, when cooked, is not unlike 
that of the prosaic cabbage. 

The maps of all Oriental cities call to mind the fabled 
labyrinth of mythology, with streets crooked and distorted, 
"blind alleys" and devious highways and by-ways. Most 
of the latter are paths only, with no paving save the earth, 
and lead the visitor into extremely ill-smelling haunts of 
squalor, whose surly denizens regard the intruder with no 
friendly eye, and from which he is glad to beat a hasty 
retreat. 

But Damascus has the unique distinction of possessing 
one "Straight Street", the Rue Droite. This fact being so 
unusual, coupled with the Biblical reference to such a thor- 
oughfare, has given general credence to the tradition that 
Paul, the great apostle to the Gentiles, while lodged in the 
"house of Judas" somewhere upon this street, was visited 
by the devout Ananias, who brought to the persecutor a 
message of deliverance, and restoring his sight, caused him 
to see the vision of a great world-field of evangelistic possi- 
bilities. 

The street itself is by no means noteworthy, save for its 
new metal roof which we saw in process of erection. At the 
end of an adjoining alley near the Christian quarter of the 
city is shown the house of Ananias, above the door of 
which has been placed a Latin inscription and an ornate 
iron lamp. It is scarcely probable that after nineteen cen- 



54 



DAMASCUS 



turies the humble habitation of Paul's benefactor should 
be preserved, and we examine the old stone house with de- 
cided unbelief. For us, it is enough to know that we are 
near the locality where occurred one of the world's great 
transformations, and from which went out a life destined 
to spread the gospel of the Nazarine to the remotest parts of 
Rome's world empire ! 




STRAIGHT STREET AND ITS NEW ROOF. 



Christianity in Damascus has nourished all through the 
ages, the early Church known for its bishops and learned 
men! and in more recent years as a factor along missionary 
and ' educational lines. In 1860, however, the Christian 
quarter was almost entirely wiped out, the crushing blow 
being dealt by the Kurds and Moslems, whose pent up 
hatred vented itself over the entire Lebanon district. 

One heroic figure stands out in connection with this ter- 



DAMASCUS 



55 



rible affair; it is that 
of 'Abd el-Kader, the 
Algerian ex-chief. Him- 
self a follower of Mo- 
hammed, living here in 
exile, he was neverthe- 
less instrumental in 
saving the lives of 
thousands of endan- 
gered Christians. 

Twenty years before, 
'Abd el-Kader had been 
desperately fighting the 
French in Algeria. A 
u Saladin of the nine- 
teenth century", he was 
one of the brightest and 
most chivalrous warri- 
ors of his race. Over- the house of ananias. 
whelming numbers had triumphed, and despite his brav- 
ery and the stout resistence of his desert followers, 
he was forced to capitulate and was conveyed a prisoner to 
France. After five years of confinement he was released by 
Napoleon III on condition of his never returning to his 
native land. Surrounded by a numerous retinue and many 
of his old Bedouins he had taken up his residence in Da- 
mascus, and it was he, who of all men might be reckoned as 
having a just cause for grievance against the Christians, 
who interposed in their behalf, and at the risk of his own 
life penetrated with his faithful Algerines into the burning 
Christian quarter and extended to the wretched fugitives the 
sanctuary of his own spacious house. And, further, when 
the mob threatened his own gates, he buckled on his sword, 
mounted his horse, and with his old time bodyguard at his 
heels, defied the hordes of furious fanatics and plead for his 
Christian brothers ! His moral courage saved the day. And 




56 



DAMASCUS 



the name of 'Abd el-Kader must ever stand out on the golden 
pages of history as one who knew not only how to fight, but, 
more noble still, how to forgive ! 

Just without the East gate, a section of the wall is 
pointed out to credulous tourists as being the identical place 
from which St. Paul was lowered in a basket, thereby escap- 
ing from those who sought his life. Now, it is quite evident 
that the modern walls of Damascus follow for the most part 
the lines of the old Roman defenses, but only the founda- 
tion stones and, in places, the first two or three courses of 
masonry give evidence of antiquity; the superstructures 
dating only from Saracenic times, with still later Turkish 
restorations : so here again imagination must suffice. 

Despite its great age, Damascus boasts of few genuine 
relics of the past. Unlike Cairo, she possesses no towering 
Citadel dominating the region round about. True, Damas- 
cus has a so-called Citadel, a weather beaten mass of old 
Arabian walls situated in the center of the town, to which 
tourists are not admitted, but it is about as effective from 
a military standpoint as one of the Armories in an American 
city. Even the troops stationed in Da- 
mascus have their barracks seme dis- 




THE WALLS OF DAMASCUS. 



DAMASCUS 



57 



perhaps the most celebrated structure in the city, but it is 
so confined and hemmed in by other buildings that it is ab- 
solutely impossible to obtain an idea of its extent from 
without, and although it ranks second only to the Dome of 
the Rock in Jerusalem as to size and historical importance, 
it fails to impress the visitor as it ought. 



j 




111 %i.^6iBB£^aM^ 



THE GREAT MOSQUE. 



Occupying the site of an original Roman temple and 
several Christian churches, it was in the early years of the 
eighth century completely taken over by the [Moslems and 
magnificently rebuilt as a mosque. Even to this day, so it 
is said, the severed head of John the Baptist, long treasured 
by the early Christians, is somewhere secreted in the recesses 
of this building. Here too is kept the sacred tent used in the 
annual pilgrimage to Mecca. 

There is just one satisfying bit of old Rome left in Da- 
mascus, and that is a battered triumphal arch or temple 



58 



DAMASCUS 



portico, rising white and beautiful still from the maze of 
squalid dung colored modern houses and dirty streets near 
the booksellers' bazar. This arch, it is affirmed, was once 
a portion of the approach to the temple, the site of which 
is now occupied by the great mosque. At the time of my 
visit several miserable hovels were in process of demolition 
opposite the arch, and I was enabled to get a fairly good 
photograph of the classic columns and architrave. 

The lover of Roman ruins, however, should under no 
circumstance neglect the excursion to Baalbek, forty miles 
or so to the North of Damascus. It was at Reyak, on our 
way from Beyrout, that we had received a most urgent invi- 
tation to make this attractive side trip but had postponed it 
until later. 



If time is no par- 
a night or two 
tent is to your lik- 
Baalbek trip 

muleback. We 



ticular object, and 
spent beneath a 
i n g — make the 
horseback — or even 
city habits are 




STILL IMPOSING AFTER TWENTY CENTURIES. 

prone to laugh at the thought of straddling a donkey, but be 
assured that it is no hardship. Most of the beasts of the 
East are sturdy, well broken and tractable, and "know their 



DAMASCUS 



59 




THE RUINS OP BAALBEK. 



business." 
They neither 
kick, bite or 
balk as a rule, 
and put to 
shame their 
obstinate 
brethren o n 
this side of the 
world whc m 
we have learn- 
ed to ridicule 
and stigmatize 
a s embodying 
all that is con- 
trary: 

The Acropo- 
lis of Baalbek 

rising to the Northwest of the little town, is most satisfying 
in its completeness. Unlike many groups of ruins, it has not 
become a part of the village or been built upon and then but 
partially excavated, but it is surrounded by charming gar- 
dens and approached by a flight of wooden stairs between 
luxuriant trees. 

The several temples comprising the group seem almost 
a part of Rome itself. Memorials and inscriptions of An- 
toninus Pius and Caracalla tell of the wealth and labor lav- 
ished upon the structures by the emperors who dwelt upon 
the Palatine, and later by the Byzantines. 

The six huge peristyle columns of the great temple of 
Jupiter are visible to the traveler long before he reaches 
Baalbek, while the smaller temple of Bacchus is perhaps the 
most beautiful antique building in all Syria, 

While the major portion of the Baalbek ruins are of 
Roman construction, it seems evident that other than Rom- 
an hands first builded here. And the most perplexing and 



60 



DAMASCUS 



interesting work at Baalbek is not that of the temples, im- 
posing though they may be, but that of the substructions; 
huge masses of masonry which were added to complete the 
symmetry and to more fully build up the natural elevations 
of the temple hill. 




CYCLOPEAN WALL, BAALBEK. 

The lower courses of the outer wall reveal blocks of 
stone of extraordinary size. Upon the west side are three 
huge monoliths forming a part of the wall each of which is 
at least sixty feet in length, ten feet thick and thirteen feet 

high ! • 

There are travelers who believe that these foundation 
blocks date from the time cf Solomon, and even go so far as 
to identify them with portions of a temple built to heathen 
dieties by the great Jewish monarch to humor his wives 
some of whom worshipped "strange gods" in "high places" 



DAMASCUS 



61 



and groves a- 
mong the hills. 
This, at least, 
i s food for 
thought and 
plausible in a 
measure. 

History is si- 
lent ; the great 
stones tell no 
tales. But the 
closely fitting 
joints of mas- 
onry where ev- 
idently no 







■v . i 


: 












A. 







mortar was 

, ' n A STREET FOUNTAIN. 

used — the 

similarity between these blocks and the remaining founda- 
tion stones of the west wall of the temple at Jerusalem, to 
say nothing of the suggestion of Egyptian workmanship 
(and 'tis said Solomon was infatuated with a woman of 
Egypt) — all these things cause us to wonder and to specu- 
late ! 

There are, without doubt, many great discoveries yet 
awaiting the diligence of the archaeologist. Mariette said 
that a thousand years of research would fail to exhaust the 
treasures and mysteries hidden beneath the sands of Egypt. 
Dr. Schliemann merely scratched the classic soil of Greece. 
Prof. Saville has given the best years of his life to South 
America, yet he realizes that he is merely opening up a 
field of wonderful promise. All the years spent in Mesopo- 
tamia by our University expeditions have given us but frag- 
mentary glimpses of the wonders of Babylonia, while in the 
Far East such work has never been systematically attempt- 
ed. In the interior of Borneo and Java are ruined Hindu 
temples almost inaccessible by reason of thick jungle, and 



62 



DAMASCUS 



even South Africa gives promise of undreamed-of discov- 
eries ! 

We of the twentieth century are wise, 'tis true, but much 
remains shrouded in mystery. There is a fascination in 
delving into the past, and Palestine and Syria are rich in 
possibilities. "Finds" of interest, great and small, are con- 
stantly being made. I am informed on good authority that 
in the neighborhood cf Antioch coins and odds and ends of 
bygone days are exposed after every freshet of rain ! 









V 











INTERIOR OF A PRIVATE MANSION. 

And so we return to Damascus; from our contempla- 
tion of a dead past to a newer realization of the struggles, 
joys and whimsicalites of the present. 

To the traveler from the new world it seems as though 
the people of every other race save his own were whimsical. 
Here is an example : Turkish bath establishments abound, 
yet the average citizen of Damascus looks as though he had 
never bathed. Yet so far as hands and feet are concerned, 
the Damascenes are most fastidious. Before every mosque 



DAMASCUS 



63 



or in its courtyard is a fountain, usually surrounded by a 
crowd of worshippers faithfully performing their ablutions 
before going to prayer. 

As noted elsewhere, the city is bounteously supplied 
with water, and the houses of the wealthy, although present- 
ing a forlorn exterior are palatial within, and usually pro- 
vided with bubbling fountains and an interior court, decorat- 
ed with a profusion of flowers and exotic plants, which is the 
center of the life and activities of that particular household ; 
as completely isolated and different from the city as though 
many miles beyond its confines. 

Being desirous of photographing a group of the mong- 
rel dogs which haunt the streets, I accosted a surley looking 
butcher who presided over the ill-smelling shop opposite 
our hotel, and for about three cents purchased a heap of 
bones, which I requested him, by means of elaborate pan- 
tomime, to offer to the dogs who were sniffing longingly 
about his stall. He 
distributed the 
bones and I secured 
my picture of dogs 
and butcher as well ; 
the old Mussulman 
looking at me all the 
while as if he 
thought me bereft 
of my reason. As 
I left him with a 
"salaam" I saw him 
turn with a grin and 
a comment to his 
next-door neighbor; 
I should have en- 
joyed hearing his 
opinion of me. 
On the day of my 




FEEDING THE DOGS. 



64 



DAMASCUS 



departure from Damascus, I had occasion to bless the pro- 
verbial slowness of the Orient. In anticipation of taking 
the morning train for the South, breakfast at the hotel had 
been hurried down, and my watch inadvertently left lying 
on the table. My cab lumbered leisurely through the town 
toward the outskirts, where is located the Meidan station 
and nearby the Kadem terminus of the newer Hejaz railway, 
leading to Mecca, with a connecting line to Galilee. 

With great deliberation I examined and photographed 
the huge modern engine, — made, by the way, in Bonn, 
Germany, — and then ambled back to my compartment 
where I settled down for a quiet cigar and waited for the 
hour of departure. _ 

"At least five minutes yet," I said to myself, feeling lor 
the watch, when, to my consternation, I discovered my loss. 
Hastily summoning one of the boys who hung around the 
station, I dispatched him post haste to the hotel - a dis- 
tance of considerably over a mile - scarcely hoping that he 
would be able to return with the timepiece before we started, 
although I knew that tram schedules are very inaccurate m 
te the Sultan's do- 

, minions. 

The five min- 
utes passed ; I 
was in a state of 
greatest sus- 
pense; to get off 
and miss my 
train meant an- 
other day's delay 
which would 
completely dis- 
arrange my sche- 
dule, so I simply 
waited. 

Ten minutes 

'MADE IN GERMANY . 





DAMASCUS 



65 



more passed, and who should come running up ? Not my 
messenger, but a breathless porter from the hotel, holding 
outstretched in one hand my watch, which he had found be- 
side my plate, and mopping his streaming brow ! Here, for 
once, was bakshish honestly earned and willingly given. 

And yet the train moved not ! In another five minutes 
my errand boy returned, having of course been on a wild 
goose chase, but he too had certainly earned his day's wages. 

Half an hour late, the train finally got into motion, and 
began its long journey across the plateau toward the valley 




MOUNT HERMON. 

of the Yarmuk. The reduced speed of our train was a mat- 
ter of necessity, for the railway traverses a flat pastoral 
country, and immense droves of cattle, sheep and camels are 
incessantly crossing the rails; in fact so numerous are the 
flocks that the country for four or five miles to the south of 
Damascus resembles a great stock farm, dotted with small 
villages and Bedouin encampments. 



66 



DAMASCUS 



Caravans of heavily laden dromedaries stalk majestically 
across the plain; and among the flocks grazing upon the 
close cropped vegetation we occasionally see a cunning little 
"suckling" camel, frightened by the puffing engine, and 
cuddling close beside its dignified parent, who regards all 
things, new and old, with undisturbed serenity. 

Damascus is soon left behind, but old Mt. Hermon 
never leaves us, and, in the West, lifts its towering height 
of nine thousand feet; the first of Lebanon seen from the 
sea, and the last to say farewell as we continue our journey 
into Galilee ! 





HERE are certain "milestones" which stand out prom- 
inently in our memory after every journey. The Sea 



of Galilee and its environs is dear to the hearts of ail 
travelers in Palestine. Although much has been written con- 
cerning this historic region, no two travelers bring away 
quite the same impressions. To some, historic Gennesaret is 
a disappointment, while others go into raptures over its ex- 
panse of azure blue nestling among the hills. 

One fact, however, is certain : from the moment of leav- 
ing Damascus on the Southward journey we look forward 
expectantly to the first sight of this little inland sea, famous 
in song and story. 

In some respects we may criticise the railways of Pale- 
stine, but too much praise cannot be given to the service 
afforded by this, the Hejaz Railway, which is far superior to 
the French line operated between Damascus and Beyrout, 



68 



GALILEE. 



THE HEJAZ RAILWAY is the 
result of a strange combination, 
viz., Moslem devotion and German 
brains and capital. 

In 1901, Sultan 'Abdul Hamid II 
authorized its construction, chiefly 
to facilitate the annual pilgrimages 
to Mecca, the Holy City of the Mos- 
lem world, which had heretofore re- 
quired a long and tedious over-land 
journey. 

From every point m the territory 
of Islam came voluntary contribu- 
tions to further the pious under- 
taking. Special taxes were levied 
and Turkish soldiers assigned to as 
sist in the work. German loans and 
German engineers were, moreover, 
behind the project, thus contribut- 
ing greatly to its fulfillment, 

Bv 1908, the line, traversing the 
East Jordan region, had reached 
Medina, distant 823 miles from Da- 
mascus; and in 1913 had been 
pushed some miles further into the 
wilderness. Between Medina and 
Mecca nearlv three hundred miles 
of desert intervene : the projected 
course of the line was South-west- 
ward toward the Red Sea, to a point 
near Sherm Rabigh and thence fol- 
lowing the shore line for a distance 
before ascending inland again to 
Mecca. . , 

The advent of the loung Turk 
party to power at Constantinople, 
the Balkan war, and the European 
embroglio have put a stop to the 
work for the present. 

Non-Moslems are not encouraged 
to patronize the road beyond El 
Ma' an near the ruins of Petra ; m 
fact to do so requires special per- 
mission from the government. 



another section of which runs 
Southward parallel with this 
line, a few miles distant. 

Our coach is equal to the 
best compartment carriages in 
Europe ; apparently new, with 
the convenient side aisle run- 
ning the entire length of the 
car, and the seats lavishly up- 
holstered in buff corduroy. 

Only three trains a week are 
operated in each direction over 
the road, yet the service is ex- 
cellent, and has done much to 
facilitate the progress of the 
lone and inexperienced tourist, 
as well as the "personally con- 
ducted" sight-seer. 

After an hour or so we leave 
the flat table land and enter a 
barren and rugged country. 
We are about to descend from 
the lofty elevations of the Hauran to the valley of the Jor- 
dan several hundred feet below sea level, and it is a descent 
occupying six hours. 

The first half of the journey is the least interesting. 
Thirty miles beyond Damascus we skirt a desolate and 
rocky region with lava formations frequently m evidence 
reminding us of a far-distant period when even the hills of 
Syria evinced volcanic activity. 

Regions of considerable fertility enliven and intersperse 
the barren spurs of the mountains, with ancient villages and 
crowds of avaricious looking natives waiting the arrival of 
the train, which, as may be imagined, is a most noteworthy 
event Every mountain hamlet receives its quota of goods, 
and we in turn take aboard consignments of food stuffs and 



GALILEE. 



69 



fodder, sacks of which are piled high on the station plat- 
forms. 

At Derat we branch off to the West and leave the Mec- 
ca line. In the station at this place there is a tolerable rail- 
way restaurant. Here a prolonged stop is made : so long, in 
fact, that we wonder whether the engineer has abandoned 
us and gone off on a love tryst with one of his village "affin- 
ities". Patience is indeed a necessary virtue in the East, and 




A STATION IX THE HILL COUNTRY. 



the traveler, be he ever so irritable, gradually acquires a 
measure of stoicism. 

But we do finally get started, and now for the pictur- 
esque stage of the journey. Our puffing engine enters a mag- 
nificent canyon, where the tracks cling closely to the sides 
of the lofty limestone cliffs. Far below us, hemmed in by the 
rugged walls, we see a narrow yellow stream. It is the 
river Yarmuk, one of the sources of the Jordan. After cen- 



70 



GALILEE. 




turies of ero- 
sion it has eat- 
en away its 
tortuous chan- 
nel, and now 
tumbles wild- 
ly along the 
bottom of the 
gulley. 

W e follow 
the natural 
curves of the 
hills. Here and 




there a splen- 
did bridge 
spans the 
chasm as we 
cross from side 
to side, and 
ever and anon 
we plunge into 
a gloomy tun- 
nel, — then 
dash out again 
into the light. 
The view is 
magnificent 
reminding an 
American o f 

the canyons of our own Southwest on a small scale. 

As we rumble along we find a singular pleasure in pok- 
ing our heads out of the windows and surveying the cars of 



THE VALLEY OF THE YARMUK. 



GALILEE. 



71 



our Long train rounding the abrupt but graceful curves. And 
our train, by the way, is a fearful and wonderful combina- 
tion. The several classes of passenger coaches are followed 
by half a dozen heavily laden freight cars, the van of the 
Turkish "Poste," one or two "flats," and the lumbering ca- 
boose. I have even seen a "Prison Van" car on an Oriental 
railroad, behind the barred windows of which a glimpse was 
obtained of some unhappy rogue, traveling at the expense of 
the state. 

In the descent of the valley of the Yarmuk, the engin- 
eers found it necessary to "double up on the trail' 7 in the 
downward glide, and across the chasm we see the track 
which we shall presently traverse in the opposite direction, 
but ever proceeding lower and lower. 

It would seem to the passenger that such rugged re- 
gions must be sparsely populated, for we are apparently on 
the very outskirts of civilization; yet the fact remains that 
many of the desolate looking towns scattered along the val- 
ley possess Roman ruins and traces of by-gone importance 
which are truly surprising, and which tell us that the region 
was in the old days of infinitely more importance than at 
present. 

Many little streams join the muddy Yarmuk and de- 
bouch from rugged ravines on both sides of the valley, tumb- 
ling in pretty waterfalls and cascades into the ever-descend- 
ing channel. The upper hills are almost devoid of verdure, 
but in places where the bottom of the valley widens out 
there are more fruitful sections, — even an occasional palm 
is seen as we approach the tropic level ; or perhaps a flock of 
goats pasturing with a Bedouin tent nearby, — or a native 
farmer proceeding leisurely with his work. 

At El-Hammi are the renowned hot baths of Gadara, as 
famous in classic days as the Baden-Baden of to-day, yet 
few tourists tarry to bath in the sulphurous water, repelled 
I imagine by the begrimed appearance of the native popula- 
tion, with whom familiarity has "bred contempt". 



72 



GALILEE. 



Every turn in the road now seems to say to the weary 
traveler, "beyond lies Galilee", — and it will indeed be re- 
freshing to come upon a sheet of water after a fortnight in 
the hill country. But a score of windings yet intervene ; be- 
yond one bluff looms another and yet again our hope is de- 
ferred. Then gradually the hills seem to melt away, and 
easily and naturally there is spread before us a little lake of 
bluest turquois in a harmonious setting of brown. It seems 
as though we had seen it often before, — in fact it looks fa- 
miliar, like an old friend. Some travelers have said that 
Galilee is not blue; perhaps atmospheric conditions affect 
its color; but for me, I can attest, the lake wore its most 
attractive hue. 

An inland lake, thirteen miles in length by perhaps 
half that distance across, would seem strangely misnamed if 
called a "sea" in any other land, — in South America or 
Canada perhaps; but here again it is a matter of history; 
there is a sea of history before us, and Gennesaret, call it 
lake or sea, bears upon its bosom tales that stir the heart. 

Like a picnic party off for a Summer day's excursion the 
passengers flock out at Samakh, the little sta- 
tion at the Southern extremity of the lake, and 
scamper down to the quay as though fearful 
lest the little steamer there in waiting should 
start off and leave them stranded. 

A score of us tumble into the little launch. 
Most of the 
crowd are A- 
mericans, tco; 
a party of 
school teach- 
ers being "per- 
sonally con- 
ducted" by a 
leather-lunged 
Syrian and an 



a _ #1 • 




THE WHARF AT SAMAKH. 



GALILEE. 



73 



anaemic looking clergyman, who, I understand, comes over 
every year with just such an aggregation. At first I mar- 
veled that his demeanor did not betoken more delight in his 
task. Surely, I thought, this is a rare privilege, this annual 
Palestine trip. 
But after a 
few moments 
spent in care- 
f u 1 observa- 
tion I changed 
my verdict to 
one of pro- 
found pity. 
After hearing 
some of the 
senseless ques- 
t i o n s pro- 
pounded t o 
him, to say 
nothing of the 
solicitous in- 
quiries of nine tenths of the party about this and that miser- 
able piece of baggage, or ticket, or what not, — I ceased to 
wonder at his listlessness, and heartily congratulated myself 
that I was unincumbered either by useless luggage or uncon- 
genial companions. 

I must say, with regret, that this particular group of 
tourists had been rather "clannish" on the train. I, on my 
part, resented their exclusiveness ; so peacefully and alone I 
looked after myself, selected a vantage point well forward in 
the boat, and sniffed the exhilarating breezes of Galilee with 
unbounded delight. 

Our little launch makes the short run between Samakh 
and Tabariya, (the ancient Tiberias) in something like half 
an hour. The sea is "choppy" and I haven't the slightest 
cloubt as to its ability to do some wonderful "stunts" when 




TIBERIAS FROM THE LAKE. 



74 



GALILEE. 



a squall of wind breaks upon it from the hills. Galilee is no- 
toriously treacherous, and bad weather comes on with great 
suddenness ; it must be exceedingly foolhardy to attempt the 
crossing in a small boat. 

All the world is familiar with the scriptural account of 
the storm raging on Galilee and the Master asleep in the 
stern of the boat : it seems that even old and experienced 
fishermen were at their wit's end to regain the shore in that 
instance, and it remained for the Christ to still the troubled 
waters. , 



From the 
boat we gain a 
general idea of 
the configura- 
tion of the 
lake. Oval in 
shape, its 
shimmering * 
waters well 
nigh deserted, f 
the sea of Gal- 
ilee is hemmed 
in by hills of 
moderate 
height. The 
town of Tiber- I 




' 1 C THE BEST, AND ONLY HOTEL IN TIBERIAS. 

we are bound, 

lies upon the Western shore, while nearer the head of the 
lake is the village of Magdala and the ruins of Capernaum. 
There are a few other straggling clusters of houses, and 
numerous bits of unidentified ruin, yet it is believed that the 
shores of the lake were lined with populous and prosperous 
villages at the time of Christ. The unpretentious hills more- 
over possess a peculiar charm, for here Jesus taught; into 
their fastnesses he retired to pray, and somewhere here- 



GALILEE. 



75 



abouts, it is affirmed, was delivered the matchless "Sermon 
on the Mount". If you are looking for exact locations, you 




THE CASTLE. 



may even have pointed out to you the place where the five 
thousand were fed, but don't be too anxious for precise sites. 
All Galilee is sacred, but foolish people who focus their at- 
tention on a few spots of peculiar sanctity miss the wider and 
more inspiring vision. 

Very satisfactory accommodations are secured in Ti- 
berias at the Hotel Grossman, kept, as may be inferred, by 
a German. The building is comparatively new, built of the 
black, lava-like stone which has been used in building con- 
struction hereabouts for centuries. The dark hue of the 
stones, with their wide joints of white mortar, give the struc- 
tures the appearance of being 'in mourning" as one of the 
visitors put it, 



76 



GALILEE. 



In the spacious dining room hang pictures of the Kaiser 
and the German Empress, and by the window overlooking 
the lake there is an old fashioned parlor organ and a "Moody 
and Sankey" hymn book. You can make up your mind that 
when a crowd of "church going" Americans determine to 
hold a little song service they go at it with a vim and gusto, 
for all the world like a Methodist prayer meeting ! 

To many who shall read these pages 'Memories of Gali- 
lee' is a well known selection, yet I venture to say that never 
could it appeal so strongly as when sung in the Holy Land, 
and with the real Galilee glistening in the sun just beyond 
the vine-covered portico. It is one of those perfectly ap- 
propriate happenings which are usually few and far be- 
tween. 



Regarding the 




TIBERIAS FROM THE HOTEL VERANDA. 

er modern 



Moslem towns, save that here the Jewish element of the 
population predominates. Tiberias has always been popular 



GALILEE. 



77 



with the Hebrews, and during recent years their numbers 
have been greatly augmented by the colonists from Poland. 

Still keeping watch and ward over the town are the 
remains of the ruined Herodian castle, occupying the site 
and probably embracing some of the old foundation stones 
of the splendid structure built by Herod Antipas during the 
early years of the first Christian century. Like all the other 
"castles" in this region it is in a forlorn state, its lower 
chambers used as stables or granaries for the neighbors, 
while its upper walls appear to be making a desperate effort 
to hold themselves together. 

My venturesome desire to get a panoramic view of the 
town led me to the top of the escarpment. The scene pre- 
sented below me was attractive, but the stones immediately 
beneath my feet were evidently held togther with mud. The 
section of the wall upon which I was standing gave a pre- 
liminary shiver, and I had barely time to step back ere a 
fragment weighing perhaps a ton crumbled away and 
crashed to the ground below with a fearful thud, rousing the 
community and sending them scurrying out of doors like dis- 
turbed hornets. Without investigating further into the 
merits of the case, I hastily decamped. 

Most visitors to Tiberias make the trip across the lake 
to the site of Capernaum, the modern Tell Hum. There is 
little left of this once extensive town save foundation stones. 
What little there is remaining is well taken care of by the 
Franciscans, who are always courteous and kind to visitors. 
Whether we are visiting the catacombs of Rome or some lit- 
tle out-of-the-way and sleepy old ruin, these religious custo- 
dians invariably warm our hearts by their genuine sincerity 
and interest. 

The German Oriental Society has done some digging 
here, and brought to light the lower portions of a building 
which was evidently a synagogue in Greco-Roman times. 
One bit of this ruin — the entrance steps — has a strange 
fascination far above all the rest. The steps are practically 



78 



GALILEE. 



intact. Now, as the structure whose ruins we behold was of 
Roman design, it has been suggested that the edifice was 
that given to the Jews of Capernaum by the benevolent cen- 
turion to whom reference is made in Luke 7 : 5. If so, it was 
standing in Christ's time. If we accept this purely circum- 
stantial evidence, it is almost positive that the Master must 
have worshiped and taught in this same synagogue, and His 




STEPS OF THE SYNAGOGUE AT CAPERNAUM. 

feet trodden upon the very stones before us ! No other spot 
in Palestine can be thus designated. 

There are some spots in this old world which have been 
consecrated by the presence of the great and the good. Un- 
der the old elm in Cambridge, Washington took command 
of the Continental army; the spot is dear to every American 
heart It is an inspiration to stand where stood the "Father 

of his Country". As Lowell put it, "Here, where we stand, 

stood he — the purely great !" 

Before Independence Hall in Philadelphia there is set m 

the pavement an inscription telling that upon this site 

Lincoln raised a flag in the days when the dark clouds of war 



81 



GALILEE. 



hovered over our beloved land. And I, standing there after 
a lapse of fifty years, felt the message of Lincoln grip my 




/ . ■ \ 

/ 

' \ 

V' 1/ , , , 




NEAR CAPERNAUM. 



heart : ".. with firmness in the right, as God gives us to 

see the right, let us strive to finish the work we are in" 

But now to stand beside the shore of Galilee, before a 
few worn steps of discolored marble, with naught but silence 
around and the limitless Summer sky above, and have the 
thought strike home : "Here stood the world's greatest 
Teacher and man's most loving Friend, the Father of Chris- 
tendom and the Emancipator of millions of lives from the 
chains of sin and self !" 

It is just about enough to make this one day stand out 
forever memorable among the rich experiences of life. 

In some respects the Land of Christ is lonesome; a 
great sad page of the long ago — and widely different from 
the Kingdom of Christ, — an uncounted multitude of de- 
voted hearts scattered over all the world. But at the Hotel 
Tiberias there are usually several parties of tourists, and the 
disciples of the Kingdom do much to brighten up the Land ! 
Truly "it is good for us to be here". We are on no Mount of 
Transfiguration, but we all have something in common, and 



82 



GALILEE. 




we who are 
lacking, per- 
haps, in con- 
scious right- 
eousness, are 
possessed of a 
compensating 
amount of 
reverence. 

That night 
we go upstairs 
to bed candle 
in hand, for 
the inn boast- 
eth not of gas 
or electricity. 
In the dining 
saloon the 
greater degree 

of illumination is produced by oil lamps. So with the lighted 
tapers dimly flickering in our chamber, we wash off the 
travel stains and dust of the day's journeyings and "turn 
in", to dream of dear ones at home. 

A Sunday morning walk by the Sea of Galilee is an- 
other of the episodes long to be remembered. 
Not that we meet with any remarkable ad- 
ventures or 
even witness 
any unusual 
sights, — it is 
merely the as- 
sociation o f 
ideas. 

Nowhere in 
all Palestine 

does one come tiberias from the castle. 



THE CASTLE'S CRUMBLING WALLS. 




GALILEE. 



83 




THE SHORES OF GALILEE. 

so near to the Holy Land of his early conceptions as in the 
region of Galilee. In Damascus the busy commercial life 
attracts us, in Jerusalem there is a wealth of history to con- 
front us, but here, along the quiet shores of the lake, we may 
shut out the activities of the present and open our hearts to 
the voices of the past. 

As we set out from Tiberias in the early morning with 
the monastery bells of the town solemnly pealing out that 
universal Sabbath reminder that this is a day of rest, we 
realize that never before have we come so near to knowing 
the personal Christ. 

The sun has scarcely risen, and the hills on the opposite 
shore are still partly obscured by the mists which hover low 
over the water. Upon just such a scene Christ must often 
have looked, for Galilee is not far distant from Nazareth, 
and hither we are told He was wont to resort. The Galilean 
fishermen were His dearest companions ; among these hum- 
ble village folk were His friends of early manhood, and from 
them most of His disciples were chosen. 

On our side of the lake the hills approach the water's 
edge in a gentle slope, the intervening fields rich with wav- 



84 



GALILEE. 



ing grain. We walk along the stony beach. From over the 
crest of the rugged hills a peasant group has* descended and 
they are now coining toward us along the shore, journeying 
to the town. 




"AND THEY FOLLOWED HIM" — from painting by J. R. Wehle. 



But our thoughts are not on things of the present; we 
are living in the atmosphere of the past. 

As we walk along in reverie, the mists of the lake en- 
velop us for a moment, so it seems, — and in that brief in- 
stant we have bridged the centuries ! We are living in the 
days of the Master's life among men, and the approaching 
company, at first seen like distant apparitions, resolve them- 
selves into a group of familiar figures. They are engaged in 
earnest conversation as they draw near. 

Who is he who is walking a pace or two in advance, 
beside that other aged figure ? A form strangely familiar, at 
sight of which we halt instinctively. It is none other than 
the central Character of all the ages ! In dress an humble 



GALILEE. 85 

wayfarer, in manner unassuming, yet possessing, withal, that 
strange something which marks Him out at once as Prophet, 
Priest and King ! It is the Christ of Galilee; Him whom 
we have not seen, yet have known from childhood, — that 
face and form indelibly stamped upon the minds of men by 
crucifix and wayside shrine throughout the world ! 

"And they followed Him" and marveled at His teach- 
ing, and "reasoned among themselves" concerning the words 
He spake. John, the youthful and loved disciple, walks 
alone, as if resentful that the elder Peter should occupy the 
place of honor by the side of the beloved leader. James and 
Andrew follow, with Thomas and Matthew and "the others 
of the twelve". 

Nearer they come ; we can even hear their conversation. 
Tense with interest, we dare not breath. And then the Mas- 
ter speaks : the quiet yet eloquent voice is just as we had 
fancied it. And the words which He speaks are familiar 
words : "I am the vine and ye are the branches; a branch 
cannot bear fruit of itself : except ye abide in Me ye can- 
not " 

The vision fades away; centuries again roll between, 
and we step aside to let the modern Galileans pass on into 
the city. But we have seen the Christ and felt His presence ! 
And so it must ever be along the shores of this consecrated 
sea, There 
is only one 
Life, only 
one Mes- 
sage. Else- 
where in the 
Holy Land 
history 
crowds i n 
upon us, 
memories of 
kings and 

WASHED BY THE WAVES OF NINETEEN CENTURIES. 




86 



GALILEE. 



conquerors and present day degredation : but at Galilee 
only one Figure is ever-present; the One through whom 
Galilee is known, and because of whose sojourn it will ever 
be beloved by the children of men ! 

The beach is strewn with stones, great and small. Near 
the water's edge, and up along the hillside, crumbling ruins 
speak eloquently of a population and importance gone for- 
ever. We recall the accounts of the splendor of Tiberias in 
the days of Herod, yet all that now remains of the palatial 
villas of the Roman epoch are a few worn and weather- 
beaten foundation stones, washed by the waves for nineteen 
centuries. The waters of the lake have now subsided below 
the normal shore line, for it is mid-Summer and a time of 
drought. Upon the green and water-lined stones we see 
ample evidence of ages of erosion. Here indeed are the 
wrecks of time. Every stone trodden thoughtlessly under 
foot or rounded into pebbles by the action of the sea was 
once a part of an attractive community ; — from the descrip- 
tions of historians we may infer that it must have been the 
"Luna Park" of Palestine. Against these walls were moored 




FLOCKS DRINKING ON THE BEACH. 



the pleasure craft of the luxurious Roman colony, and the 
purple-sailed galleys of the Idumsean court. Gone forever 
from these shores is the splendor of this golden age ; if pros- 



GALILEE. 



87 



perity comes once more to Galilee it will be the prosperity 
born of industry and not the lavishness of the oppressor. 



. .. 



OXEN THRESHING. 

From the neighboring fields large flocks of sheep and 
goats and droves of cattle come down to drink ; the sturdy 
black and white oxen standing up to their shoulders in the 
cooling water, perfect pictures of bovine placidity. Later 
in the day some of these same oxen must do their part in the 
daily routine of the peasant's work, and be driven round and 
round upon heaps of golden grain, threshing the chaff from 
the kernel. 

We see several of these primitive grist mills in opera- 
tion, even though it is early in the day, and we pause for a 
moment to watch with interest the age-old process, the same 
as that employed by the children of Abraham. 

We see the hard-working oxen bend occasionally be- 
neath the yoke and nibble at the grain under foot, calling to 
mind with pleasing directness the old Mosaic injunction 
'Thou shalt not muzzle the ox when he treadeth out the 
corn". It is like picking cherries on the profit-sharing sys- 
tem, two for the pail and one for the boy in the tree. 

A white-domed structure a mile or so beyond the out- 
skirts of Tiberias is the synagogue of the Sephardim. and 



88 



GALILEE. 



nearby are the graves of several learned Talmudists. To the 
North of the town are other historic Jewish tombs, among 
them that of the celebrated Rabbi Ben Akiba. After the fall 
of Jerusalem, Tiberias and its environs became a sort of in- 
tellectual capital for the Jewish nation and the seat of the 
Sanhedrim. The learning of the schools, much of which had 
been handed down by oral tradition only, was committed to 
writing, and between the third and sixth centuries A. D. the 
Talmud and the Mishna came into existence. 




A TOMB ON THE HILLSIDE. 



Yet there is little cf the atmosphere of culture apparent 
in this region to-day. While it is claimed that the study of 
the Talmud still nourishes here, the bright minds of Jewish 
thinkers and teachers have become indispeusable parts of 
every great nation in the world. Sometimes we speak of 
the Jews as the "scattered nation", yet to how great an ex- 
tent is the world indebted to the Jews ! This very scatter- 
ing process has enriched the entire globe. We call to mind 



GALILEE 



89 



the names of the foremost scholars, physicians and scien- 
tists of Europe and America, and it is truly astonishing to 
discover how important has been the part taken by the 
Jews in the uplift and development of the lands of their 
adoption ; contributing knowledge and service, devotion and 
patriotism, healing and inspiration ! Repaying good for 
evil, the Jew has made all mankind his debtor. 

The hills of Palestine are honeycombed with caves, and 
these caves have been utilized from the dawn of history, 
and before, as shelters for the living and sepulchers for the 
dead. Every mountainside presents yawning caverns to 
arouse our curiosity. Like the limestone formations in 
France, these caves are naturally adapted to human habita- 
tion, and it is a safe conjecture to surmise that buried deep 
in the hard packed earthen floors of many of these recesses 
are still to be found the prehistoric flint implements of the 
neolithic age. It has been my privilege to explore many of 
the aboriginal rock shelters of Northern New Jersey and to 
experience the fascination of bringing to light primitive arti- 
facts which have not seen the light of day for centuries; 
hence every cave of Palestine seems especially tempting. 
Happy the lot of him whom time and means will permit to 
"scratch around" in the rich soil of mother earth, — the 
"culture levels" of ages, — and see for himself the footprints 
and the traces of those who have gone before, and realize 
the slow and primitive steps by which man, age by age, has 
risen to his present dominant position. 

Many of the rock tombs of Galilee are again in use, the 
modern Jewish colonists burying their dead in the tombs 
of their fathers, whose dust has long since mingled with the 
earth. I found one old Roman tomb freshly whitewashed 
within and without. I saw upon its walls new inscriptions in 
Hebrew. Reverently I lingered for a moment in the pre- 
sence of the dead, then turned again toward the domain of 
the living, to see blue Galilee, dancing in the sunlight, ap- 
pearing more beautiful than ever, when framed by the portal 



90 GALILEE 

of the sepulcher. In this vicinity are the celebrated hot 
springs, whose waters possess highly medicinal properties, 
so it is said. Some of them, unutilized, bubble out of the 
ground and make their way down to the lake, leaving a 
greenish deposit on the stones. There are several bath 
houses. Some of them are old and dirty, with general bath- 
rooms, presided over by vicious looking natives. The new 
bath house, with private accommodations, is scarcely more 
pretentious. If, however, you are a courageous man, you 
may "take a chance" and experience a sulphurous boiling, 
which may or may not heal your "rheumatics" or cutaneous 
diseases, if you are so afflicted. These baths have been 
famous in history, and many a gouty old Roman epicurean 
has, without a doubt, expiated his crimes at this Galilean 
Karlsbad. 

Late in the afternoon, on that most interesting Sab- 
bath, I walked alone along the lakeside toward Magdala. 
One or two 
fishing boats, 
skimming 
across the 
lake, gave to 
the water a 
touch of life, 
while nearer 
the shore two 
fishermen, 
waist deep in 
water, fussed 
over a tattered 
net, as though 
preparing for 
the n i g h t's 
work. We won- 
der what luck 

they will have. a corner of the city wall. 




GALILEE. 



91 



These are not the days of miracles, alas, and if they return 
in the morning "having toiled all night and caught nothing" 
no superhuman power will bid them recast their net and 
draw in again with unheard-of success. More probably an 
unwelcome reception will await them in yonder village at the 
hands of some irate termagant ! 

Ere we retraced our steps to Tiberias the sun had sunk 
low over the hills. A cooling breeze from across the lake 
tempted me to linger on the 

shore, and seating myself 

upon a nut- ed section of 




a prostrate column ly- 

ing at the very edge of the 

. A "PASSER-BY." & 

lapping waves, I studied with 

interest the tiny, white, crab-like creatures, hundreds of 
which had taken refuge beneath the stones. Whether they 
are edible or not I cannot say, but I recollect that I gathered 
a hat-full with childish acquisitiveness, and then wondered 
what to do with them. 

The shadows fall apace, and evening, that borderland 
of mystery, silently spreads its soothing mantle over the 
land and over the sea. All is quiet now, save for the occa- 
sional bark of a dog in the distant town. It is the end of a 
perfect day. 

I have been "reading Mark Twain" with great interest 



92 



GALILEE 



of late, and somehow I am 
learning to appreciate, more 
and more the strange yet fas- 
cinating style of America's 
greatest satirist. His "Inno- 
cents Abroad" will never be- 
come "out-of-date" as is the 
case with so many travel 
books, and his descriptions 
and reflections voice our own 
thoughts as we follow in his 
steps through Palestine, and 
linger thoughtfully by the sea. 

Setting at naught all con- 
ventionalities, he hesitates not 
in the least to shatter our illu- 
sions of Galilee's loviiness by 
day. He ridicules saint and sin- 
ner alike; then philosophizes 
a bit; then breaks once more 
into the strain of humor as if 
to put away an obtrusive sol- 
emnity which was not to his 
liking. Yet I am convinced 
that Clemens was possessed of 
a profoundly religious nature, 
— never once does he refer to 
the truly sacred with even a 
suggestion of levity, and his 
most caustic arraignment of 
accepted tradition gives way 
to a sublime tribute to the 
Christ as he contemplates the 
Sea of Galilee beneath the 
starry dome of night. 

The Holy Land is a ren- 



The TIBERIAS of Bible times is 
the modern TABARIYA, a little 
town on the Western shore of Gen- 
nesaret, which for nineteen hundred 
years has been the center of a little 
Galilean world. 

The shores of the lake have been 
dotted with villages from the dawn 
of history ; the tribes of Asher, Zebu- 
Ion and Issachar dwelt here. But 
it was in the Roman period that 
the charms of the region were most 
appreciated. Galilee then formed 
a separate province and was densely 
peopled. 

The town of Tiberias, founded 
by Herod Antipas, is believed to 
have been built about 17 — 25 A. D., 
and was named in honor of his pa- 
tron, the Roman emperor Tiberius. 
At the time of Christ's ministry, 
therefore, it was quite a new place, 
and undoubtedly a popular and re- 
fined community, a center of Greco- 
Roman culture, and rich in beautif ul 
public buildings as well as palatial 
villas. 

While Christ frequented the Gali- 
lean villages and chose His disciples 
from among the fishermen dwelling 
in the region roundabout, but one 
mention is made of the town in the 
account of His ministry, and only 
two other references to the name 
as applied to the lake. The latter 
of these passages tells us that, after 
His resurrection, the Master came 
again to Galilee, as if once more 
to enjoy the beauties of the lake and 
the fellowship of His earthly com- 
panions before going from them for- 
ever. 

During the Jewish war of inde- 
pendence, when Josephus _ became 
commander-in-chief, he fortified Ti- 
berias, but the inhabitants volun- 
tarily surrendered to Vespasian and 
were permitted lo remain in peace. 
After the fall of Jerusalem, Tiberias 
became the chief seat of the Jewish 
nation, and here for centuries Jew- 
ish literature flourished. At the 
time of Constantine a Christian 
church was here established, and it 
was at Tiberias that St. Jerome 
learned Hebrew. 

The Arabs took Tiberias in 637. 
It was restored to Christendom by 
Tancred, but yielded to Saladin in 
1187 after the battle of Hattin. 
From 1240 to 1247 it was again in 
Christian hands. 

About the middle of the 18th cen- 
tury it was again fortified by Zahir 
el- 'Omar, who for many years de- 
fied the Turkish power. 

The walls of the town and the 
castle on the North were in great 
part ruined by an earthquake in 
1837, when half the population 
perished. 

The surface of the lake and the 
lower portion of the town is 660-680 
feet below the level of the Mediter- 



GALILEE. 



93 



dezvous for preachers : they 
love to write about its features 
from a religious and even dog- 
matic standpoint. Beecher, 
forty years ago, gave us sub- 
lime impressions of Palestine, 
with sermons convincing and 
logical as well. But oratory 
and preaching was the business of Beecher and those who 
followed him, and we expect from them nothing else than 
spiritual deductions. 

The purely archaeological writers go to the other ex- 
treme, for, as they say, "Science knows no Religion 1 '. Their 
impressions often leave us doubting and skeptical, and shat- 
ter our time worn convictions without supplying anything 
to take their place. 

The professional traveler and lecturer talks and writes 
to please, and most of us who boast of that distinction are 
irresponsible dreamers or idealists: we tinge our descrip- 
tions with our favorite hobbies, and then try to compile our 
"ravings" into an attractive unit. 

That which impresses me above all else is the involun- 
tary expression of an inborn reverence on the part of the 
man who styles himself "irreligious", and the heart-longings 
in our own souls for the pure and the good, only satisfied by 
the teachings and the memory of Jesus. It convinces me 
that our faith, be it ever so feeble, is not in vain, — it 
obliterates the doubts born of too keen research, and the 
petty bit of knowledge thus acquired. 

But I have become side-tracked. Returning to the sub- 
ject of Mark Twain, let me say that his descriptions of Pale- 
stine are for the most part applicable to-day. Recent years 
have brought few changes, and save for the improved fa- 
cilities for travel and the advent of the European colonists, 
little is new in Bible lands. No two travelers see through 
the same eyes, however, and it is this diversity of vision 



ranean, occasioning an almost trop- 
ical climate, pleasantly tempered by 
the breezes from the lake. The 
banks of the lake form a veritable 
paradise in Spring. Aside from the 
fever which is prevalent after the 
first rains of Autumn, Tiberias is 
not unhealthy. 

The present day population of 
perhaps 8500 comprises fully 7000 
Jews, many of them Polish immi- 
grants, among whom German is al- 
most universally spoken. 



94 



GALILEE. 



which constantly permits additions to the myriad of books 
already written on the subject. 

At dinner that evening we discover that a second party 
of tourists have arrived at the hotel, bound Northward for 
Damascus. There is usually plenty of excitement when two 
expeditions "cross wires" in this fashion. 

To our delight, there are some friends from home, and 
a party of folks from Pittsburg whom 

last we saw entering the great Pyra- MM HB 

mid of Cheops at Gizeh ! R ^fg *B^^B 

At this stage of the journey I am B^- JEV 'ML m 

traveling alone. Hungry for someone - 
to "churn with", I j om the boys. At ( t^\m 
once it is proposed to make up a ^- r * 
group and go for a swim. The fellows friends pR0M HQME 
gleefully scurry from room to room, 

confiscating all available towels, and in a few minutes we are 
on our way through the dark streets of the lower town, and 
outside the gates, tramping over the bowlder-strewn beach 
to a spot recommended by the villagers. It now transpires 
that the ladies too have caught the spirit of the occasion and 
are off for a lark on their own account, with headquarters a 
short distance down the shore. 

And so we splash and chatter away in happy abandon. 
The air is warm and the water "just fine", and, if the stones 
on the bottom do not offend your tender feet, perfect bliss 
reigns supreme. For almost a quarter of a mile one may 
walk away from the shore with the water scarcely up to his 
shoulders. So all are satisfied; "sink or swim" no danger 
lies in wait. 

We have arranged to start early the next morning on the 
journey "overland" to Jerusalem. Three days will be re- 
quired for the trip, and here, for the first time, we must de- 
pend upon a carriage. 

Luckily it happens that a vehicle has come up from 
Judea but yesterday, and we are informed that the driver 



GALILEE. 



95 



will wait, if possible, for a "fare" before undertaking the 
homeward journey. We ferret out the owner of the rig and 
strike a bargain : for three pounds, — British gold, — I am 
to have the carriage all to myself. 

The amount is not excessive and I gladly acquiesce, 
when to my surprise my prospective charioteer tenders me a 
French five franc piece to bind the bargain ! This is, of 
course, to be returned to him when I make my final reckon- 
ing, but the custom is pleasing, and quite different from our 
"cash in advance" no-confidence methods. 




OUR ROYAL CHARIOT. 



The hired outfit turns out to be a "coach and three", the 
coach of course being an antiquated victoria, with cushions 
and top linings of light blue. The third horse is hitched on 
the outside of the team, and I later learn that the position 
of the animals is shifted at the halting places. 

The idea of three horses to convey one lightweight trav- 
eler with but three pieces of baggage appears absurd, but it 
seems they brought up a heavy load from Jerusalem, and 
the horses deserve the relief. Yet the idea of one's own 
private equipage is decidedly luxurious, and I suppose I 
assumed an air and attitude of becoming dignity as we rolled 
out of Tiberias. 

We had planned to make an early start, but it was past 
mid-day when we left the town and began the slow ascent 



GALILEE. 



96 



of the hills. Up we wind at a snail's pace : the road is much 
worse than I had anticipated, turning and twisting among 



















MOUNT TABOR. 



the hillocks above the town in serpentine fashion, and often 
strewn with bowlders. 

For an hour we remain in sight of Galilee ; the plan of 
the region is now spread out like a map far below, with Ti- 
berias and Magdala but tiny groups of white houses by the 
water's edge. Then it is lost behind the hills. 

Our driver now whips his horses into a trot and we rattle 
along at a more satisfactory pace. Despite the fact that the 
springs of our vehicle have long since lost their "springiness" 
and the constant anxiety lest one of our suit cases shake 
loose' from its moorings and tumble down on our shins, it is 



GALILEE. 



97 



decidedly a pleasant mode of 
travel. Rather lonesome, to be 
sure, this journeying alone 
like a solitary nabob, but there 
are times when one's thoughts 
make very tolerable compan- 
ions, and he who is not solaced 
by entertaining thoughts when 
touring a region so rich in his- 
tory is greatly to be pitied ; — 
it must be a case of mental 
vacuity. 

A few miles to the South- 
ward is Mount Tabor, a re- 
markably formed hill, whose 
perfectly rounded summit 
seems almost artificial in its 
egg-like symmetry. Under the 
afternoon sun and a sky of 
cloudless blue it is the domin- 
ating feature of a landscape 
of perfect peace. Few spots in 
this old world, however, have 
witnessed such a succession of 
stirring events. 

Nestled among the Galilean valleys and orchards are a 
few old villages, brightened by the presence of a French or a 
Russian monastery or convent school. But most attractive 
of all are the settlements of the "colonists", in which all 
Christendom as well as every Jew is interested. 

No portion of the world needs "colonizing" more than 
the Holy Land, and the advent of hundreds of Jews from 
unfavorable environments in Europe, and a few Christians 
as well, who have migrated from time to time back to these 
old, old valleys, is like the infusion of young blood into the 
withered veins of a patriarch. 



MOUNT TABOR, rising about 
thirteen hundred feet above the 
plain, is a mountain whose history 
is more eventful and thrilling than 
that of any other mountain in the 
world, and, perhaps, of any other 
place — hill or plain. Mt. Tabor is 
the gigantic exclamation point of 
nature in a little country where 
almost every foot of ground is the 
tomb of a tragedy. In the earliest 
times in the history of the Jews 
we find that this huge mound of 
earth and stone was a pivotal 
point in the wars of tribes, of 
countries, and of nations. Issachar 
built a city upon it ; great armies 
have again and again fought around 
its base. Sisera and his hordes 
were swept out of existence under 
its shadow. Gideon's armies more 
than once tented at its foot, and 
Romans and Jews fought tigerishly 
along its slopes. The Crusaders 
built churches on its summit, and 
Napoleon the Great, in 1799, made 
modern warfare memorable by 
Kleber's fight with an almost over- 
whelming body of Syrians. It 
would take volumes in which to 
narrate the history of events of 
which Mt. Tabor has been either 
the center or the immediate back- 
ground. The summit is crested with 
the ruins of churches and rough- 
ened with the relics of forgotten 
towns and fortresses. From its 
top, where a small chapel now af- 
fords shelter to travelers, the eyes 
take in Gilboa, the Sea of Galiiee. 
the Mount of Beatitudes, Safed. the 
Mediterranean, and the lovely plain 
of Esdraelon and Galilee. Until 
recent years Tabor was considered 
as the Mount of Transfiguration, 
but severe scholastic research has 
failed, as yet, to positively satisfy 
us on this point. 



98 



GALILEE. 



Years of neglect and abuse have devastated much of 
Palestine, yet under the careful cultivation of the colonists 
the wasted valleys are beginning to bloom once more ; vine 
and orchard again breath out an atmospere of sweetness and 
hospitality ; which proves beyond a doubt that a country as 
well as an individual may "come back". Given a century of 
peace and a steady influx of thrifty farmers, Palestine will 
again justify words of praise such as filled the hearts of her 
proud and prosperous people when Israel gloried in her God- 
given heritage ! 

Well on in the afternoon we approach the village of 
Kafr Kenna. On either side of the roadway are impene- 
trable hedges of the "prickly pear", which is in reality a 
species of the cactus, and aside from its edible fruit, surely 
serves as an effective stockade. 

Kafr Kenna is probably identical with the Cana of the 
New Testament, where Christ is reputed to have performed 
His first miracle, and turned the water into wine. 

The village is most attractive, and, as if to illustrate 
the scriptural story, we pass scores of women and children 
coming from the spring with stone water 
jars upon their heads. The spring or well 

is the center of life 
in every village. 
Hither, at evening, 
come, it seems, the 
entire population, 
droves of 
goats and 
cattle from 
all the 
country 
round. 
The spring 
at Cana is 
a pictur- 

THE "PRICKLY PEAR." 




with 
sheep, 



GALILEE. 



99 



esque spot, where our thirsty horses regale themselves from 
an ancient stone sarcophagus. My solemn visaged driver pro- 
ceeds to carefully sponge out their nostrils, after which he 
washes his own feet and lies down beneath a tree by the 
road-side for a ten-minute "snooze" before proceeding on 
the journey, while I im- prove the opportunity 

to secure a few snap- shots of those who come 




RETURNING FROM THE WELL. 



to draw water. The traveler watching the constant "line 
up" of cattle at the drinking trough can easily understand 
old Jacob's strategy at the watering place of his father-in- 
law Laban; when by placing "streaked rods" before the cat- 
tle, he influenced thereby the color of the "increase". 

Of course Kafr Kenna has a church; two or three of 
them in fact, and all basing their claims to distinction upon 
the miracle at the wedding feast. But there is little to in- 
terest the visitor at either of them. For me the spring it- 
self was amply sufficient. Here the water was drawn, with- 



100 



GALILEE. 



out a doubt. The spot was familiar to Christ. Nazareth, 
we know, is but a few miles distant, and here he must often 
have stopped in the eager days of His boyhood or the tired 
days of His ministry. 




THE SPRING AT CANA. 



Slowly we drove away. I thought of the miracles of 
the Bible, so strange and hard to accept. In these matter- 
of-fact times, I suppose a miracle, even if performed, would 
scarcely be credited. We would be apt to say — "There's 
some deception" just as we do when witnessing a clever per- 
formance of a Keller or a Thurston. 

Or, if the miracle was one of healing, our advanced 
knowledge of medicine would get the credit. Is Faith a lost 
art ? 

A little brown lizard scurried across the road, and took 
refuge in the chinks of a crumbling wall. But the frightened 
reptile, dust covered and blinking in the sun, had answered 
my doubts. 

All nature is a miracle, — a perpetual miracle. Every 



GALILEE 



101 



flower, every tree, every creature of fur and feathers is a 
miracle ! 

Day and night, seed time and harvest, and you and I, 
with' our poor, doubting personalities, are evidences of an 
all-powerful and all-provident Deity ! 

From the summit of the next hill we shall see Nazareth. 




NOT BEAUTIFUL, BUT USEFUL 




^Si N the old days Nazareth was a "no account town". It 
/II was off the line of the great Roman highway through 
Galilee and was but litte frequented by visitors from the 
outside world. The circling belt of vine covered hills served to 
isolate the community, and the Nazarines concerned them- 
selves but little with the doings of the rest of humanity. 
They in turn were looked down upon as ignorant and be- 
nighted villagers, even by the scarcely more fortunate dwel- 
lers in other parts of Judea and Galilee, and to be called a 
Nazarine was by no means to one's credit. In this beauti- 
fully situated yet unlettered community the boy Jesus grew 
to manhood, humbly following the conventional ways of his 
kinsfolk until the time arrived for the beginning of His life's 
work. He lived, and ministered and died, and then as gener- 
ations passed, men measured His worth. The early Christians 
consequently resorted to the town of His birth, and here 
erected churches. Nazareth became second only to Jerusa- 
lem in sanctity, and as the centuries passed, the Crusaders 
strove for its possession with equal zeal. And we of to-day, 
the "Camera Crusaders" as Dwight Elmendorf puts it, must 
under no circumstances omit a visit to this now famous 
town. 



104 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



We had expected little of 
Nazareth : perhaps a collec- 
tion of dirty houses and filthy 
streets — like Damascus with- 
out its commerce or Tiberias 
without its Galilee. When 
therefore we had crossed the 
brow of the last intervening 
hill and saw the Nazareth of 
to-day spread out before us in 
all its attractive beauty, we ex- 
perienced a most pleasant sur- 
prise. The "new comers" of the 
last decade have wrought the 
transformation. Again it is 
the same story of new build- 
ings. Private cottages and 
public institutions dot the 
slopes of the green amphi- 
theatre, in the arena of which 
a remnant of old Nazareth 
still lies dormant. Yet were it 
not for the old town we should 
never have journeyed these 
five thousand miles to see the 
new, and when all is said and 
done we confess that the ruin- 
ous reminders of the past are 
but enhanced by their modern 
surroundings, like an "old 
master" of the Renaissance in 
a frame of burnished gold. 

The sunset light still lin- 
gered in the valley as we de- 
scended between rows of stately poplars. No picture town 
of Northern Italy ever appeared more lovely than Nazareth 



NAZARETH, in modern Arabic 
En-Nasira, has a population of 
about 15,000, of whom 5000 are 
Moslems — the remainder Chris- 
tians, chiefly Orthodox Greeks and 
Latins. The town enjoys a measure 
of prosperity; farming, gardening, 
cattle raising and the manufacture 
of agricultural implements being 
the principal sources of employ- 
ment. It is surrounded on all 
sides by the pleasantest landscapes 
of Canaan, nestling in a hollow on 
the South slope of the hills which 
bound the plain of Esdraelon on the 
North, beautiful in olive groves 
and green meadows. Though it 
had a synagogue and is called in 
the Gospels a city, Nazareth must 
have been an obscure place in the 
time of Jesus. It has no Old 
Testament history. Eusebius and 
Jerome are positive in its identifi- 
cation, however, as the place of 
Christ's early life. For years its 
population consisted entirely of 
Samaritan Jews. In the 6th cen- 
tury there were two Christian 
churches here, one of them un- 
doubtedly the work of the Empress 
Helena, and standing over the sup- 
posed Grotto of the Annunciation. 

In consequence of the Moslem 
conquests Nazareth dwindled down 
again to a mere village. In 970 
it was taken by the Greek emperor 
Zimisces. The place was most flour- 
ishing in the time of the Crusaders, 
who transferred to it the bishopric 
of Scythopolis. In 1229, the Em- 
peror Frederick II, one of the 
most remarkable historic figures of 
the middle ages, while King of Jeru- 
salem, rebuilt the town; and in 
1250 it was visited by Louis IX 
(Saint Louis) of France. When 
the Franks were finally driven out, 
Nazareth again lost its importance, 
and after the Turkish conquest in 
1517 the Christians were compelled 
to leave the place. The Francis- 
cans, under the protection of 
Fakhreddin, established themselves 
again in 1620. Like Tiberias, the 
town was benefited by the Arab 
Sheikh Zahir. who in the middle of 
the 18th century had made himself 
master of Central Palestine and re- 
sided at Acre. Like all the rest 
of Palestine. Nazareth is indebted 
to the colonists of the last genera- 
tion, and the generous Europeans 
who have endowed and supported 
its present numerous schools and 
hospitals, of which there are over 
a dozen — and all doing magnificent 
work. The hill above the town 
commands one of the finest views 
in Galilee, from Hermon to Mount 
Carmel. 



h 
-_± 

<j 
si 
< 

o 

< 

c 

<i 

On 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



107 



at the close of day. The 
town has grown to a con- 
siderable size and our ho- 
tel lies at the further ex- 
tremity of the village. 
Again it proved to be a 
German institution, with 
good European cooking 
and roast beef as the 
stellar attraction on the 
dinner menu. Three Ger- 
man professors were 
there — archaeologists, 
I think — (had it been 
a few months later I 
should have suspected a 
political mission.) They 
were decidedly uncom- 
municative and self-cen- 
tered and positively re- 
fused to fraternize. But to atone for their graceless be- 
havior, the other guest turned out to be a minister from 
Minnesota, a jovial Irishman by name and ancestry, but a 
true American in deed and spirit. We had a little smoke to- 
gether and a pleasant chat about the things which all trav- 
elers have in common, and before we parted I had the 
pleasure of loaning him my Italian guide book, for thither 
he was bound before embarking on the homeward journey. 

Lord Byron went into raptures over his "Maid of 
Athens." For me, however, a little dark-eyed "maid of Naz- 
areth" will linger forever in the picture gallery of memory. 
She was my guide at Nazareth, and never have I been 
equally fortunate in securing a guide so competent and a 
companion so interesting at the same time. 

As a general rule, guides are a nuisance. I had one very 
unpleasant experience in Egypt with a thick skulled Arab 




"MAID OF NAZARETH". 



108 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



who conducted me through the Tomb of Ti at Sakkara. All 
that Hassan could do, (and they all seem to be called Has- 
san) was to point his henna-dyed finger at the wall carvings 
and prate about the "sacred fish", the "sacred eye", the 
"sacred duck", and the "cartouche of Rameses II." 

But the Nazareth romance happened "thusly" : Out- 
side the door of the hotel as we sallied forth after breakfast 
was a multitude of women of all ages, offering trinkets and 
lace for sale. My little "Pocahontas" pushed her way into 
the animated circle and in good English began to expatiate 
upon the merits and beauty of her hand made lace collar- 
ettes. Now I am a bachelor and have little use for such 
lingerie, but "because she troubled me continually" I in- 
vested in a couple of handkerchiefs. The cash tendered in 
payment produced a charming smile, and of a sudden I 
realized that she was really pretty — a charming character 
study. So for a few minutes I "studied character" assidu- 
ously while she offered her wares to the reverend gentleman 
from Minnesota, But business was not rushing for the 
damsels of Nazareth that day. Two poor American tourists 
were inadequate to fill the pockets of the multitude, and, as 
the clergyman took compassion on another crippled woman, 
poor little sister returned to the attack with another yarn 
about the lace collarettes. 

But just then I had an inspiration ; why not employ her 
to conduct me through the town ? I hadn't seen much of 
girls since leaving the Princess Irene at Naples; she ap- 
peared to be fairly intelligent and evidently knew the town, 
— so we struck a bargain. She proved indeed a charming 
little companion, and would certainly have made a "pre- 
miere cicerone". She told me her age was fourteen, yet she 
talked and acted like an American girl of seventeen. 

A fellow always enjoys the society of a girl who can 
chat in an entertaining manner. My new friend had ac- 
quired just enough English to make her conversation inter- 
esting ; the rudiments from one of the convent schools and 



NAZABETH AND B A M A HI A 



109 



the rest "picked up" from tourists. She explained that dur- 
ing the season when visitors were plentiful her laces found a 
ready sale, but in Summer the income was exceedingly 
meagre. Her aged mother and herself supported themselves 




NAZARETH STREET SCENE AND MOHAMMEDAN SCHOOL. 



by making and selling the lace to travelers, but they were 
living in hopes that a brother in far off Venezuela would 
eventually "make good" and provide a home for them in 
America. It seems that the Syrians share the view of the 
peasant class the world over ; namely, — the prevalent illu- 
sion that our land is a sort of Golconda — a place of continu- 
al prosperity, where everyone is rich and want is unknown. 
They have absolutely no idea of the vast extent of the "new 



110 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



world", in fact even my radiant little chatter-box thought 
New York must be somewhere near the whereabouts of her 
brother. 

The miserable Mohammedan boys school at Nazareth 
looks deserted. In fact it is "good for nothing save to be 
cast into the oven". Its influence is nil, and its teachings 
are valueless. 
It is the Chris- 
tian and Jew- 
i s h schools 
which are of 

benefit to the 

community, 
and happily 

the Syrian 

children are 

not slow to 

avail them- 
selves of their 

refining infiu- 

ences. My 

compa nion 

i . • THE VIRGIN'S FOUNTAIN. 

was a shmmg 

example of that refinement. What a transformation a little 
education can accomplish ! 

There is only one well authenticated site in Nazareth. 
It is the so-called Virgin's fountain, and like all the wells 
and springs throughout Palestine, forms the living link be- 
tween the past and the present. To-day the water pours 
into the stone basin through a series of iron pipes, and an 
arch of masonry has been erected over it. Springs, however, 
seldom change their position, and as this is the only foun- 
tain in the old town we may safely assume that to this well 
came Mary and the Christ-child year after year; first the 
young mother with her toddling infant, then the thoughtful 
woman of maturer years and the sturdy young village car- 




NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 111 



penter. There is always a group at the well curb, its familiar 
outlines are pictured in every travel book, and we have no 
room for doubt as to its genuineness. Save for this one lo- 
cation, all else in Nazareth is tradition. But tradition is 
everywhere. The so called "Synagogue", now a United 
Greek Church, is said to occupy the site of that which Christ 
attended. Another chapel has for years stood upon the 
reputed foundation of the "Workshop of Joseph". There is 
little of interest in the sanctuary itself beside a picture over 
the altar. But that picture is the most beautiful work of 
art in Nazareth. The boy Jesus is portrayed at the work 
bench, with Joseph in the foreground and Mary sitting 
thoughtfully at the foot of the stairs. It is a modern paint- 
ing, and worthy of reproduction. 

No more pleasing conception of idealized boyhood was 
ever given to the world. It is difficult to imagine Christ as 
a boy, just as it is hard to imagine a boy of to-day being 
Christ-like, for it isn't a trait of boy nature. General 
Lew Wallace, in one of the early chapters of "Ben 
Hur" has painted a striking word picture of the boy 
Jesus, in which 
we find the lad 
stopping to assist 
a stranger on the 
highway. And if 
we are to think of 
Christ as a boy at 
all, let it be as one 
who was ever 
ready to help a 
boy less fortunate. 
And if we are to 
find a boy to-day 
who has any of 
the Christ-like 
virtues, it will not 




THE SYNAGOGUE. 



112 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



be an effeminate boy with Sabbath School lesson mem- 
orized to perfection and faultlessly knotted tie ; but it will 
be the manly little fellow who thinks of others, — a true 
Boy Scout, ready with his "good turn every day". 

They are building a new church on this spot, and it will 
be an impressive building, too, when completed, — beautiful 
in its cream colored limestone. Out of curiosity I crawled 




"THE WORKSHOP OF JOSEPH". 



under the protecting fence and essayed to photograph the 
building in process of construction. But the sharp eyes of 
the master mason had spied me. Instead, however, of order- 
ing me out of the enclosure, he courteously lined up his 
"gang", apprentices and all, and posed them in real style 
before my camera. The resulting film was one of the gems 
of my collection. Some weeks later I mailed a print to the 
obliging Syrian. The faces of every one comprising this 
picturesque yet motley group express the keenest enjoy- 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 113 

ment. Each one of the force has his implement of toil, 
while the boys have brought into action the popular cigar- 
ette, with that universal "show off" demeanor which is com- 
mon to the budding youth of the "genus homo". The ample 
and baggy trousers are, as will be noted, of the latest and 
most approved Nazareth cut. In point of popularity and 
comfort it is an even toss between the "pajamas" or the 
''nighties'" with the peasants of the East, although Euro- 
pean pantaloons and coats are frequently worn. 




THE MASTER MASON AND HIS "CREW". 

In the Southern part of Nazareth is located the Latin 
monastery and the Church of the Annunciation . A sleepy 
looking monk admitted us to the sacred precincts. Beneath 
the church are several grottoes which tradition has invested 
with great sanctity. Here we are shown the spot where 
Mary and Gabriel stood during that strangely mystic inter- 
view when the divine message was delivered to the virgin, 



114 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



and she, who was to be "highly favored among women" 
heard with trembling heart the scarce comprehended words 
of the spiritual visitor. And after the lapse of all these cen- 
turies we still do not comprehend ; but rather, with as much 
faith as we can muster up, we try to accept that which is 
beyond our ken. 

It would be useless to speculate as to the genuineness of 
the spot. It seems certain that a church was erected here in 
the fourth century by Helena, the mother of Constantine, 
and she, of all persons, must have had access to trustworthy 
information. We accept the authenticity of the New Tes- 




NEW CHURCH — SITE OF JOSEPH'S WORKSHOP. 



tament scriptures upon no more convincing argument. We 
know, however, that the early Christians were rooted and 
grounded in their allegiance to Christ and the scenes con- 
nected with His life and death ; they, at least, would have no 
reason for deception. So let us not be too wise or too skep- 
tical, but rather be contented with the testimony of those 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



115 



who have gone before as regards localities; eliminating, if 
we will, the fanciful additions and elaborations of later 
days. 

In the courtyard of the monastery broken columns and 




"FRAGMENTS OF THE CENTURIES". 



fragments of old masonry remind us of the several edifices 
which have here been erected and then fallen a prey to the 
ravages of time. Here are the wrecks of centuries. Beside 
a broken column of the earliest basilica are bits of the Crus- 
aders church; and in the center of the enclosure the old 
cistern with its antique iron crane, around which only God 
knows how many memories cluster. 

If only the spirits of the departed could congregate 
once more between these old walls, and we of the present 
secrete ourselves in a corner apart and revel in the reunion ! 
Where now indolent monks shuffle about in sandaled feet, 
noble hearted men took counsel in the days when it meant 



116 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



death to bear the name of the Nazarine. Here mail-clad 
knights clasped hands gauntleted in steel and pledged them- 
selves to fight to the last the Saracenic hosts even then en- 
camped upon the Northern hills. This narrow stone paved 
court, rich in reminiscent ruin, is without doubt the spot of 
greatest inspiration in Nazareth of Galilee. 

A long day's journey lies between Nazareth and Na- 
bulus, where we calculate to put up for the following even- 
ing. Invariably an early start is made. The roads more- 
over are said to be scandalously bad, but this is nothing new. 
Nevertheless my driver appears before the hotel at an early 
hour, and after purchasing a few trinkets of olive wood and 
one or two photographs, I bid goodbye to the beautiful little 
city of the valley. 

As I write I have before me one of the olive-wood 
souvenirs to which I have just referred. It is supposed to 
be a ruler, but the edge which ought to be "straight as a die" 
is like the weapon of the playful sword fish. Olive wood is 
like that of the apple tree, with grain gnarled and knotted, 
and most of the curios of that material offered in the miser- 
able bazar were deplorably imperfect, and appeared to have 
been whittled with a jack knife. This ruler was the worst 
obtainable, but it is interesting by reason of its crudity, and 
_ the assurance of the tradesman willing to 

offer such an article to a customer. But 



FAREWELL TO NAZARETH. 




we are now 
leaving Nazar- 
e t h behind. 
From the crest 
of the last ele- 
vation we turn 
for a farewell 
look. Only two 
days ahead is 
Jerusalem, the 
goal of our 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



117 



journey, yet we say farewell to Nazareth sadly, — it is hard 
to say "goodbye" when we may never meet again. And 
then I wondered, just as every other traveler wonders, what 
emotions filled the mind of Christ as for the last time He 
looked upon the old home town. He too was bound for 
Jerusalem, there to fulfill His mission. These surrounding 
hills had been the boundaries of His early years, every little 
dell and glade must have known His presence and witnessed 
the unfolding life. In other words, Christ's matchless char- 
acter was developed in yonder sunny valley. Here in Naz- 
areth, for thirty years, that character was in the making. 




THE VILLAGE SPRING, — JENIN. 

I am no theologian, and I yield to every one his right 
to individually weigh the words of the sacred book and in- 
terpret its message. Temperament, environment and our 
own experiences guide us in shaping our personal creeds, 
which must be as diverse in detail as are our personalities. 
But the world ever pays homage to character, and none can 



118 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



deny that the 
study and 
emulation o f 
Christ's char- 
acter fully as 
much as His 
message, have 
more than all 
else affected 
the course of 
history and 
controlled the 
lives of men. 

If then, 
there be aught 
of power and 
in^pira tio n 
still lingering 
in quiet Naz- 
areth or its circling belt of hills, may it be that those who 
linger here shall be enriched thereby ! 

The second day of our carriage journey proves as enjoy- 
able as the first. As prophesied, the road soon becomes 
perilously rough, due in part to the "wash outs" of the pre- 
ceding Winter. Unlike Egypt, portions of Palestine have 
an abundant rainfall and at certain seasons the water courses 
and gulleys, now dry and stony, are transformed into rag- 
ing torrents, and then " Jordan overfloweth all his banks" as 
the scriptures put it, — for it is into the valley of the Jor- 
dan that most of these mountain streams eventually flow. 

At the village of Jenin a noonday halt is made. Here 
the clear crystal water of the village spring is conducted di- 
rectly through the town, and at the watering place runs 
through a long stone trough. The girls and women fill their 
pitchers at the head of the sluiceway, and the water after 
passing them by has to run the gauntlet of the thirsty flocks 




BENEATH THE OLIVE TREE. 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



119 



lined up at the lower end of the conduit. The water supply 
is the life of the community : on it everything depends. It 
is scarcely to be wondered that scriptural reference is so 
often made to the 'water of life'. No simile could be more 
readily understood. 

The modern Jenin is supposed to be identical with the 
"Engannim" or "Garden Spring" of Joshua 19 : 21, within 
the territory of Issachar. Truly everything in this wonder- 
ful land has centuries of tradition behind it. 

We rest for an hour and a half, during which time our 
lunches are disposed of, while our trusty steeds contentedly 
munch their mess of beans beneath a roadside tree. 

No matter at what village the carriage stops, a curious 
group is sure to surround the traveler. Curious eyes take 
you in from head to foot, as if measuring your capacity for 
dispensing alms. Mere curiousity is not in itself distasteful 
to the stranger; one rather enjoys being the cynosure of all 
eyes — so long as he can feel that it is himself and not the 
Sultan's good copper in his wallet which is the object of all 
this scrutiny and solicitation. But one may as well recon- 
cile himself to the inevitable, and have an unlimited store 
of small change ever ready to appease the multitude. The 
'loaves and fishes' will ever collect a throng, whether it be 
at a country auction sale in Bucks county or in a forgotten 
corner of Samaria, 

We are now indeed in Samaria, the country which 
all "must needs pass through" in journeying to the 
Holy City from the North. 

One acquaintance I made at Jenin; a little Syrian boy 
with whom I talked for a few minutes and then persuaded 
to pose for me beneath an olive tree. Little did either of us 
think at the time that his picture would adorn the page of 
a "travelogue", but here it is. He is not handsome : neither 
am I — so here's something in common to start off with. 
His nose is almost as grotesque as that of "Cyrano", but his 
heart is warm, and, as is the case with all boys, it only re- 



120 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



quires a little interest to bring out his story. He has 
learned his English phrases from the Greek priest; the 
charge for instruction was, if I recall his statement aright, 
about eighteen cents a month, but even that small sum was 
burdensome to his father. Right at this point in his narra- 
tive I thought the appeal was coming — but it didn't. The 
little chap had too much manhood to be a beggar; his only 
request was that 
I write him a let- 
ter from America. 

He wrote his 
name for me : 
"Meebli". Poor 
little fellow ! I 
wonder will your 
tiny spark of am- 
bition germinate 
and fill you with 
purpose; and will 
that purpose 
eventually open 
for you the great 
door of the world ? Or will you, like all the rest of your 
kith and kin, succumb to environment; and merely live and 
die and be forgotten without ever having "lived" as we 
understand the word ? 

I cannot conceive how a person of wealth can be un- 
happy. If I were a man of affluence and found myself be- 
coming; old and "cantankerous", with all the world looking 
bluish-green to me, and apparently only a few years left be- 
fore the end of the tragedy, I'm sure I could fill those self 
same years with sunshine and delight merely by the bestowal 
of charity and work along the lines of social betterment. 
Many of our financiers, happily, have discovered, though 
late in life, the secret of joy in Service. 

A few miles South of Jenin we saw interesting evidence 




RAILWAY CONSTRUCTION SOUTH OF JENIN. 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



121 



of progress in the development of the country. It was a 
section of the railway which will eventually connect Jerusa- 
lem with the Haifa-Damascus line, upon which the construc- 
tion gangs are working in several places. The laborers are 
quartered in spacious tents, and the whole scene resembles 
a gypsy encampment. In the upper right hand section of 
our photograph the graded road bed is seen, much higher 
than the level on which the tents are pitched.* 

About the middle of the afternoon a halt is made at a 
little hamlet nestled in a green valley at the turn of the road. 
Here, of course, is the inevitable spring, and our driver sees 
fit to stop "for the sake of the horses". But it turns out 
that he has many friends living hereabouts, and for all we 
know a few families of cousins, for he seems to be on good 
terms with the entire community. The spring here is less 
copious than that at Jenin, and consists 
of one small jet of water issuing from 
the rocks. A crowd of women about 
the spot seem to be 
in constant alter- 
cation as to the 
right of way, and 
there is always a 
"waiting line." 

But it is we who 
are again the cen- 
ter of attraction. 
We soon find our- 
selves surrounded 
by a crowd of 
mendicants, both 
"blind bartimeus". young and old; 

scampering children who will stand on their heads for a 




*Since the above was written, hostilities in Europe and Teu- 
tonic influence in Palestine have hastened the completion of this line. 



122 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



The SAMARITANS were a 
peculiar religious community which 
had its headquarters in the Samari- 
tan country, and it is still repre- 
sented by a few families (about 170 
souls) at Nabulus. 

The sect probably came into ex- 
istence as a result of the co-ming- 
ling of the pagan colonists intro- 
duced after the Assyrian conquest 
(about 722 B. C.) with those of 
the Israelites who had been left 
behind. This mixed people fashioned 
for themselves a creed, based upon 
the Pentateuch, but insisting that 
God's choice site for His sanctuary 
was Mount Gerizim, overhanging 
Shechem. Under the leadership 
of Sanballat, the Samaritans erected 
a temple here, which was destroyed 
B. C. 129 by John Hyrcanus, the 
Asmonean. The summit of Mt. 
Gerizim is strewn with ruins to-day, 
but hither the remnant of the 
Samaritans still come to celebrate 
the Passover. 

Since the time of the Jewish re- 
turn from exile, feelings of great 
bitterness have existed between 
them and the Samaritans. The 
emnity between them is sharply em- 
phasized in the New Testament. 

In the wars against the Romans 
the Samaritans suffered greatly, and 
after the advent of Christianity, 
their antagonism toward the latter 
was the cause of constant friction 
in and about Shechem. Justinian 
closed their synagogues in 529 
A. D., and many of the Samaritans 
took refuge in Persia, while a few 
accepted Christianity. 

In the 12th century there were 
possibly 1000 adherents of the faith 
in Palestine. Since then the cult 
has been steadily decreasing numer- 
ically. Among the Samaritans of 
Nabulus the men wear white sur- 
plices and red turbans, and have 
preserved a venerable type of Jew- 
ish physiognomy. They are strict 
monotheists, and abhor all images. 
They look for the appearance of 
the Messiah 6000 years after the 
creation of the world, but do not 
consider that he will be greater than 
Moses. 

The high-priest, whose office is 
hereditary, and who claims to De 
of the tribe of Levi, is the presi- 
dent of the community, and one of 
the district authorities at Nabulus. 



copper; or feeble and blind old men with hands outstretched 
and suitable expressions of hopelessness. We had a little 
change left, and we made it go as far as it would. But one 
old sinner came with his supplications for the third time, 
and I confess myself guilty of an attempt at crime. At 
Beyrout a counterfeit "beshlik" had been inflicted upon me, 
and I had tried in vain to 
"pass it on". And now the 
tempter whispered in my ear, 
"give it to this greedy old fa- 
kir". So on his next visit to 
my carriage, I placed within 
his horny palm the coin, a- 
bout the size of a half-dollar. 
Eagerly his fist closed upon 
the alms; his face gleamed 
with cupidity as he felt the 
large size of the gift, and he 
hastily shuffled off before I 
should regret my bounty. 
Sardonically I laughed to my- 
self and thought I was rid of 
him for good. But no such 
luck. In less time than it takes 
to tell it he was back, loudly 
expostulating and holding out 
for my examination the now 
unwelcome coin. Whether 
the blind have u eyes that see" 
after all, or whether it was the 
critical inspection of his en- 
vious companions I cannot 
say, but the "bad penny" came 
back and that right quickly. 
So realizing that my generous- 
ity was unappreciated, I again 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



123 




THE WELL IN THE WILDERNESS. 



tucked away 
my pocket 
piece. 

My driver 
is a silent sort 
of a fellow, for 
the very good 
reason that he 
1 cannot speak 
English, save 
for a few mon- 
osyllables, but 
he is not a bad 
sort, and I de- 
cided to accept 

his invitation and join in the hospitality of his friends. 

A water-pipe or nargileh has been produced, and is be- 
ing passed from mouth to mouth. It is smoked with great 
contentment by the natives, but I understand it is too much 
for a novice, so I omit this pleasure, and wait until coffee is 
ready. The Arabs are past masters at the art of coffee 
making, — over little charcoal fires they heat the tiny pot, 
and then pour the thick black decoction into cups scarcely 
larger than a thimble. But it is coffee "par excellence," and 
ever after your "cafe noir" will bring back this experience to 
your mind. 

The last portion of the day's journey is extremely in- 
teresting. Never in my life do I expect to encounter a 
worse stretch of road. Again washouts and neglect have 
done their worst. The carriage has been nearly overturned 
several times, but "a miss is as good as a mile" and nothing 
serious has happened as yet. 

But the worst is yet to come : the driver and myself get 
out and walk, and with brakes tightly applied and rear 
wheels chained together, the old victoria is dragged down 
the declivity like a sledge ! 



124 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



But it is fun, and we wish 
there was more of it. Of course 
we arrive safely at the bottom, 
and once more start off across 
the meadow land. This is a 
great pastoral country, and has 
been ever since the days of the 
patriarchs. The wealth of Ab- 
raham, Isaac and Jacob was 
measured by the number of 
their flocks, herds and wells. 
And these old wells on the 
plain are still in service to- 
day. Around them are flocks 
of black sheep, eagerly wait- 
ing for the shepherd to draw 
up the water and empty it into 
the adjacent troughs. The tin 
pail which is being let down 
by the peasant in the picture 
is nothing less than an old 
five gallon oil tin, which orig- 
inally came from the Russian 
refineries in the Caucasus. Sol- 
idly these wells were built, and 
deeply were they sunk. In 
portions of Palestine which 
might be designated "a dry 
and thirsty land, where no wa- 
ter is", these wells are indis- 
pensable. Jacob's well was, in 
the old days, just such an open 
field- well as this, and upon just 
the Master have sat and talked w 



The village of SEBASTIEH 
crowns an isolated hill, rising 330 
feet above the valley. The site cor- 
responds with the ancient "Sa- 
maria" when the term is applied 
to the city, although as early as 
the days of the Maccabees the desig- 
nation* "Samaria" was applied to 
the whole of central Palestine. 

It was in all probability Omri, 
King of Israel who founded the 
place in the ninth century B. C, 
and made it for a time his capital. 
At this period Samaria, rather than 
Jerusalem, was the center of Jewish 
life; and from the references of the 
Old Testament prophets it must 
have been a city where idolatry 
had corrupted the pure worship of 
Jehovah. 

After a prolonged siege, Samaria 
was taken by Sargon in B. C. 722. 
The city was Hellenized by Alex- 
ander the Great, who settled Mace- 
donian colonists in it. Under the 
Ptolemies, Samaria was the head 
of a province and continued to 
be a strong city till its destruction 
by John Hyrcanus in the later half 
oi the second century B. C. 

Taken from the Jews by the 
Roman Pompey, the ruined Samaria 
was rebuilt by the general G-abinius 
and subsequently presented by the 
emperor Augustus to Herod the 
Great. He it was who caused it 
to be lavishly restored and beautified 
and who named it Sebaste, (Greek 
for Augusta) in honor of his patron. 
Despite repeated attempts at col- 
onization, the place declined in 
favor of Shechem. St. Philip 
preached here, Christianity was es- 
tablished and Samaria became the 
seat of several churches. A temper- 
ary revival occured at the time of 
the Crusaders, but for centuries 
the town has had no history. The 
modern village is insignificant, but 
for the archaeologist there remains 
a wealth of ruin — chiefly of the 
Greco-Roman epoch. The tombs 
of John the Baptist, Elisha ana 
Obadiah are shown to visitors, while 
the remains of the crusading 
churches give evidence of the faith 
of these enthusiastic knights. In 
and among the houses of the modern 
village are scattered many frag- 
ments of ancient buildings. Ameri- 
can excavators have recently con- 
ducted extensive exploration here, 
establishing beyond a doubt the age 
and the Jewish origin of the town. 



such a rounded curb must 
ith the woman of Samaria. 
Jacob's well as it is today we are to visit on the morrow. ^ 
Sebastieh, the chief city of the ancient Samaritans, lies 



N A 'Z AllE T H AND SAMARIA 



125 



in rains on the summit of a lofty, terraced hill. It is an in- 
spiring ruin, perhaps because there is much yet to be dis- 
covered here. Excavations have been recently undertaken 
and are not yet completed. These h.ave brought to light the 
remains of imposing buildings erected during the Herodian 

ff-T — ■' 1 ' j t 




THE CRUSADERS* CHURCH AT SEBASTIEH 



period, as well as earlier foundations, still deeper, which are 
evidently the work of the Hebrew sovereigns Omri, Ahab 
and Jehu. 

One of the prominent objects amid these ruins is the 
Church of St. John. Here was buried, if tradition be 
true, the body of John the Baptist. Now it will be recalled 
that the head of the "forerunner" is reputed to be in the 
great mosque at Damascus, but this separation of the re- 
mains may not be improbable. Acting in the belief that 



126 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



John was really interred here, the Knights of St. John erected 
a church over the spot. The tomb itself is twelve or fifteen 
feet below the floor of the church and is cut out of the solid 
rock. Thirty-one steps lead to the crypt wherein are also 
buried the prophets Obadiah and Elisha. But there is great 
doubt as to 
this being the 
genuine burial 
place of St. 
John who, ac- 
cording to Jos- 
ephus, was be- 
headed in the 
Castle of Ma- 
chaerus, o n 
the Dead Sea. 

Nevertheless, 
the traveler is 
shown a basal- 
tic door four 

feet in height, and behind it the cell in which St. John was 
imprisoned. The church, for the most part in ruins, is one 
hundred and fifty feet long by seventy-five feet in width. 
The crosses displayed on its walls indicate that it once had 
Christian ownership, but at the present time it is possessed 
by the Moslems. The architecture of both Romans and 
Saracens is visible in the construction. This ruin is about 
the only material proof now existing that shows that Chris- 
tianity ever prevailed in a city infamous for its idolatries. 

But it is the "Colonnade of Herod's Palace" with its 
simple columns which leaves the most permanent impres- 
sion of the lofty city, — this community with whose inhab- 
itants "the Jews had no dealings" at the time of the Gos- 
pels. 

It is almost dark before we leave Sebastieh, — the 
horses seem to be fagged out, and indeed the day has been 




HOTEL NABULUS OIs THE SLOPE OF GERIZIM. 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



127 



oppressive. Evening comes on with a delightful coolness 
and a bewitching sense of peace. The sun has set in a su- 
perbly golden and rose-tinted sky behind the mountains of 
Samaria. Twilight falls. The silver moon comes peeping 
out and shines with all its splendor upon the winding road 
ahead. We are now in a region under constant cultiva- 
tion ; on either side are groves of gnarled olive trees, grey 
and ghostly in the unearthly 
light of the moonbeams. The 
fragrance of vine and orchard 
are wafted to us by the even- 
ing breeze. After the journey 
over barren hills and sun- 
burned plain, we ask in won- 
der, — "Is this Palestine or 
Paradise ?" Little wonder 
that Caleb and Joshua came 
back from Canaan to Israel in 
the wilderness with glowing 
tales of "a land flowing with 
milk and honey." 

We pass two or three cara- 
vans of stately camels travel- 
ing silent and spectre-like in 
the shadows to avoid the heat 
of the day, and at last see far 
ahead the twinkling lights of 
Nabulus, telling us that our 
destination is near at hand. 

Despite the late hour of 
our arrival, we had no difficul- 
ty in obtaining supper and 
excellent sleeping accommoda- 
tions, for — would you believe 
it ? — the hotel is maintained 
by one of the great German 



The history of SHECHEM, the 
modern Nabulus, is practically that 
of the Samaritans and of the ad- 
jacent town of Sebastieh, the hill 
stronghold. 

Eleven hours distant from Jerusa- 
lem on the great Northern highway, 
Shechem stands guarding the pass 
between Mt. Ebal and Mt. Gerizim 
averaging about 3000 feet in 
height. The vale of Shechem is an 
easy pass between the Mediter- 
ranean and the Jordan basins, and 
has been frequented from remotest 
times. The name itself, signifying 
"shoulder or back", accords with 
the position of the town on the 
watershed. It would seem that the 
Canaanitish clan inhabiting this 
region were not expelled in the first 
Jewish conquest and even entered 
into friendly relations with the in- 
vaders. Abimelech was crowned 
"King of Shechem" and Judges IX 
goes into a lengthy account of the 
events of the period. 

Under Rehoboam, in B. C. 933, 
the national assemblv was held 
here which resulted *in the final 
separation of the Northern tribes 
from the kingdom of David. Here 
Jeroboam resided. Half a century 
later Omri transferred the royal 
residence to the newly founded Sa 
maria (Sebastieh). 

After the Assyrian conquest and 
the growth of the racially mixed 
Samaritans (See p 122 ) Shechem 
again came into her former state 
of prosperity. 

In 67 A. D. Vespasian's con- 
quering hosts slew 11000 of the 
inhabitants. After the fall of 
Jerusalem, Shechem was rebuilt un- 
der the Roman name of Flavia 
Neapolis — which survives in the 
modern name "Nabulus". During 
the Christian period Neapolis be- 
came the seat of a bishop. The 
Crusaders under Tancred captured 
the town and Baldwin II held a 
great Diet here. 

The present population of Nabu- 
lus is about 27,000 and the place 
is garrisoned by a regiment of in- 
fantry. There are about a dozen 
manufactories of olive oil and soap, 
and a fair trade in wool, cotton 
and wheat is carried on with the 
East Jordan country. 



128 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



trans- Atlantic steamship companies ? We are up betimes 
next morning, and step out upon the little balcony before 
our window to look over the landscape. The sensations of 
delight which we experience are much the same as those 
which come to the ocean traveler with the first sight of a 
new land. What globe-trotter 
does not recall his maiden trip I 
across the Atlantic and his first 




view of the coast of Ire- 

THE VALE OF SHECHEM. i r 1 

land ? That wonderful 
awakening at break of day to find himself lying at anchor 
in Queenstown harbor; the great engines silent after the 
ceaseless throbbing of the voyage, yet with the noisy gulls 
still circling overhead, reminding him that he has come up 
out of the depths. The impressions of fair County Cork can 
never be forgotten : it is a seductive picture, with hedge- 
divided fields, and a white cottage here and there; and, most 
pleasing of all, the fragrant air wafted over the bay with its 
unwonted earthy odor, and the wholesome atmosphere of 
the fields. 

Impressions such as these come to us at Nabulus. We 
are in a valley of bewitching lovliness. Before us rises 
Mount Ebal and behind, Mount Gerizim, companions of 
the ages. Between these barren tops and verdure covered 
slopes passed the children of Abraham in the dim days of 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



129 



tradition. Here were gathered together the tribes of Israel 
to listen to the farewell message of Joshua; those words of 
admonition, which, had they been heeded, might have seen 
the Hebrew nation still supreme in the "Land of Promise." 

This is the panorama spread before us, while down the 
valley stretches the road along which we rode mid evening 
shadows, deserted now save for a solitary peasant and a lum- 
bering cart. 

To the early riser must ever come a compensating joy. 
The birds sing more sweetly at dawn ; the dew covered fields 
give forth their choicest fragrance as they smile in greeting 
to the new born day. It seems as though landscape and sky 
have said, "since you have risen early to look upon us, it is 
to you that we offer our treasures. For a little while — 
until the waiting world shall wake — you and you alone are 
master." For you the garden of Eden is re-created, and the 
"Paradise Lost" through man's primeval sin is, for a few 
brief moments, regained. 

There is little of in- 
terest in the town of / . . 
Nabulus itself. It is J3 
the picturesque 
surroundings that 
lend the chief 
charm to the vil- 
lage. We think | % % 
constantly of old 
Shechem rather ™ 
than the settle- 
ment of to-day, even 
though it be en- 
hanced by the usual 
quota of new buildings. 
No town however at- 
tractive can take the 
place of the Arcadian 




If III 



Wr 4 



NABULUS. 



130 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



beauty which once clothed this valley. Naught else but a 
multitude of tents scattered over the green sward could 
satisfy us, for it is as the meeting place of the tribes in the 
days of the Judges that the location appeals to us. On these 
fertile slopes an army could subsist. So the modern town 
seems out of place : we should like to wave a magic wand 
over the valley and sweep away every vestige of the town, 
then call up the spirits of the long departed Israelites and 
crowd them with their flocks and herds into the verdant 
amphitheatre. Then to complete the picture, we should 




THE SITE OP JACOB'S WELL. 



build high on the hillside a great cairn of stones and place 
upon the altar a smoking sacrifice, with the picturesque 
figure of a prophet standing apart, clad in flowing robes of 
white, and, with hands upraised in benediction, invoking 
the mercies of Jehovah upon His erring people. 

"Here is an old friend of yours", said the landlord an 
hour later, as he tendered us the necessary change after re- 
ceipting our bill. The "old friend" was nothing more or less 
than an American copper cent, bearing the date of 1877. 
A pleasant reminder of home, truly — a stranger in a strange 
land ! So I tucked the familiar Indian head away in an in- 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



131 



ner pocket, there to make the acquaintance of the counterfeit 
beshlik. 

A mile or so beyond the gates of the town, situated in a 
field a little off the highway to Jerusalem, is the far-famed 
"Jacob's Well" 

I had imagined the well to be away out in the wilder- 
ness under the open sky, but such it not the case. The 
Greeks, it seems, have maintained a church here for some 
years, and are now engaged in erecting a splendid new edi- 
fice near the sacred site, revered by Christians chiefly be- 
cause of Christ's interview here with the woman of Samaria, 
the account of which has been recorded in the Gospels. As 
is the case with the new Nazareth church, this building is 
being built of the beautiful creamy-white limestone, along 
ornate and beautiful lines. 

I cannot understand the "expansion policy" of the 
Greek church. In some places we see their churches in the 
last stages of decay, and in 
other spots, where there is ap- 
parently little warrant for the 
expenditure, we see magnifi- 
cent new buildings under con- 
struction. If the worthy dig- 
nitaries o f 
the Church 
have a sur- 
p 1 u s of 
money i n 
the treasu- 
ry, (and I 
presume 
they have, 
for new 
c h u r c hes 
are expens- 
i v e ) . it 



I . . ;z : : 




THE BUILDING OF THE CHURCH. 



132 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



would seem more fitting to spend a little on repairs before 
indulging in other extravagances. But this is no concern of 
mine, or yours. 

Rousing one of the bewhiskered fathers from his early 
morning devotions, I applied for admission. We passed 
through an attractive little garden. The workmen were al- 
ready busily at work upon the new church and material and 




JACOB'S WELL. 

debris littered the courtyard. We entered the precincts of 
the old church and descended to a lower chamber, fitted up 
as a chapel, with gilded altar and massive candelabra, and 
on every hand pictures portraying events in the life of 
Christ. 

Occupying the center of the floor is the old well curb, 
over which an iron frame has been erected. Suspended from 
this is the bucket used for drawing up water, as well as a 
tray on which are four candles. These are lighted by the 
patient father, who forthwith proceeds to slowly lower the 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



133 



platter into the depths of the well. It is fascinating to 
watch the flickering lights as they slowly descend into the 
gloomy cistern, revealing the massive blocks of stone with 
which the well is lined. Truly the old patriarchs built for 
all time. This well, which we have every reason to believe 
is the work of the kinsmen of Jacob, may well last for an- 
other thousand years ! 

Water is abundant in the vale of Shechem, and it seems 
surprising that Jacob deemed it necessary to sink this great 
shaft at all. We may suppose, however, that being "a 
stranger and a sojourner in the land", he preferred to be in- 
dependent of his neighbors, who were in possession of the 
natural fountains, and that he thus judiciously provided for 
his vast herds and flocks. 

Lower and lower the lights descend, illuminating the 
damp walls of the deep reservoir, which appears like a bot- 
tomless pit. Then we perceive that the tray is floating ; the 
lights dance for an instant upon the black water and then 
disappear. We are told that the well is from seventy to a 
hundred feet in depth, and we do not doubt the assertion. 
Its waters are cool and refreshing, and are often carried 
away by pilgrims for devotional purposes. I, poor sinner, 
merely dropped a coin in the box and went on, not however 
without a last lingering glance at the worn well curb. I 
wonder if it can be possible that these very stones have felt 
the touch of the Master's hand ? That touch for the sake 
of which hundreds of men have suffered martyrdom, and 
millions to-day deny themselves the pleasures of the world ! 
If we could be positively sure that here Christ sat and ex- 
pounded the beautiful lesson of the "water of life" this 
scarred and weather-beaten curb would possess a priceless 
value. But this is highly improbable. More than likely the 
top stones have been often renewed. We know that the 
original church which stood here disappeared centuries ago 
and was followed by a Crusader's church, amid the ruins of 
which was erected the chapel in which we now stand. So 



134 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



often have the 
environs of the 
well been al- 
tered that we 
are forced to 
admit disap- 
pointment if 
we expect to 
behold the 
spot where 
^esus sat. I 
have described 
Jacob's well as 
the traveler 
sees it to-day, 
but visitors of khan el lubban. 

a half century 

ago give us widely different impressions. Lowell says that 
"time makes ancient good uncouth". This is particularly 
true regarding travel. The changes wrought in a few short 
years are indeed incredible. 

The last day of our journey offered little to vary the 
monotony. Perhaps we were too full of expectancy to be 
observant : too eager for the first sight of Jersusalem, or 
perhaps even a little weary with the jogging of our convey- 
ance. 

The noonday stop was made at a typical "khan" or 
country inn, — Khan el Lubban, to be exact. Here was af- 
forded shelter for man and beast; water in abundance, but 
nothing in the way of luncheon. Happily we had recourse 
to our dinner pails. Travelers pay a trifling fee for the use 
of one of the wooden tables and the privilege of tarrying 
here until sufficiently rested to continue the journey. The 
courtyard of the caravansary on this particular day pre- 
sented an animated spectacle. Several other vehicles stood 
beneath the trees, while drivers and passengers, bound to and 




NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



135 



from Jerusalem, regaled themselves before resuming the 
journey. Moreover an enterprizing little bull was tethered 
without the compound, contentedly munching his fodder 
and adding the picturesque touch to the little wayside 
oasis. 

All over the world, since men first held friendly inter- 
course with adjoining communities, the "wayside inn" has 
been an indispensable institution. Here travelers have met 
to barter, to buy and sell, to "swap yarns," to spread knowl- 
edge, and to bring into closer touch the minds of men com- 
ing from the ends of the earth. These khans have always 
been a necessary convenience and a means of social inter- 
course for the Eastern world. To just such an inn as this must 
have come Joseph and Mary on that Christmas eve at Beth- 
lehem. We shall, before the close of this narrative, journey 
to Bethlehem and behold a widely different site, a church. 
But let us remember that the church of to-day occupies the 
site of the "inn" of the scriptures, and therefore receive our 
preliminary impressions here at this typical inn, which has 
little changed either in character or appearance from the 
hostelries of the long ago. 

The "inn" of to-day has sadly degenerated, but in times 
past its functions were largely educational and helpful. The 
world is indebted to a greater extent than most of us realize 
to the interchange of thought and the uplifting influences 
radiating from the old inns like that at Canterbury, or the 
Mitre Tavern, or our own historic "Fraunces' " in old New 
York. Would that to-day there was more of the old time 
spirit of social intercourse and less of the modern debauchery 
to discredit "the public house at the crossroads." 

The North-bound travelers incessantly talk about Jeru- 
salem; their baggage is plastered all over with Jerusalem 
pasters; they are eager in their recommendations of hotels 
and "pensions," and tell enthusiastically of places we "must 
not miss" ; — all of which stimulates our desire to reach the 
Holy City. 



136 



XAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



About nineteen miles from Jerusalem we reach the 
spring of- 'Ain el-Haramiyeh, where a bit of scenic novelty 
is encountered. The water trickles down from the base of as. 
rugged cliff, and the little dell adjacent is. just the place to 
entice the camper. Beauty spots such as this, while com- 
mon enough in our own land, are exceedingly rare in Pales- 
tine. Furthermore, to lend the weird atmosphere of anti- 
quity, there are several tenantless rock tombs nearby, and 
the ruins of an abandoned khan. Some guide books make 




AIN SINYA. 



the spot still more interesting by referring to it as the 
"Glen of the Robbers", which suggests all kinds of adven- 
ture. 

As the afternoon wore on, we gradually emerged from 
the rugged country of Samaria. One of the last and pret- 
tiest of the little hill towns along the route is 'Ain Sinya, on 
the East slope of the valley, thought to be the Jeshanah of 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



137 



2 Chron. 13 : 19. The well cultivated fields about the village 
are enlivened with a few majestic poplars, making an ex- 
ceedingly attractive picture as we halt our carriage for a 
moment in passing. 

The last stage of the journey leads across a lofty rocky 
plateau, strewn with bowlders and ruins. We proceed nearly 
due South. Alongside are the telegraph wires which keep 
Jerusalem in touch with the outside world. As yet the city 
is hid behind the hills, but the poles and wires tell us that 
we are approaching our goal. Nothing could be more typ- 
ical of the progress of mankind. Where now the message 
is vibrated along miles of sensitized wire, and hill top is 
joined to hill top by metal strands, the Roman legionaries 
flashed their flaming signal beacons, telling to the heroic 
Jews in their fortified stronghold that the cordon about them 
was slowly but surely tightening its coils. 

We encounter numerous caravans and groups of peas- 
ants driving oxen or goats. Many of the horsemen go armed 
with rifles like the Bedouins of Galilee, while others merely 
carry stout cudgels with gnarled and fire hardened ends, 
which would surely prove a formidable weapon in a hand-to- 
hand fight. But as every one seems to be peaeeably inclined, 
we are not treated to any exhibitions of skill in the passage 
of arms. 

We pass through Bireh (Beeroth) and Bethel can be 
seen about three miles in the distance. Numerous other lit- 
tle villages lie scattered about, most of them off the main 
highway however, but every mile reveals some bit of ruin, 
some fragments of rock-hewn reservoirs or crumbling castle 
walls. All along, the route is full of Bible associations, and, 
as has been said, "echoes with the historic strains of fourteen 
centuries of the fervid, eager, expectant life of the children 
of Israel" before the Roman conquest. 

We seem to be passing over a great battlefield, as yet 
out of sight of the firing line, but witnessing on every hand 
evidences of the struggle. After the passage of an army in 



138 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



action, the field is strewn with dead and wounded, discarded 
accoutrements, disabled artillery and abandoned earth- 
works; so the royal road to Zion is strewn with the memori- 
als of repeated struggles. 

It is about half past five in the afternoon when we halt 
on the brow of battle-scarred Mt. Scopus and see before us 
Jerusalem. But it is a New Jerusalem. 




JERUSALEM 



To the East rises the Mount of Olives, its gentle and 
familiar slopes now crowned with the modern towers of the 
Empress Victoria Endowment, while half-way down the 
slope to the valley of the Kedron the gilded domes of the 
Russian Gethsemane church reflect the fire of the waning 
sun. It is only on the Eastern or Olivet side of the city that 
we see anything having an Oriental or familiar aspect. The 
large putty-colored dome near the East wall must be that of 
the so-called Mosque of Omar, while possibly that other 
dome, similar, but much smaller, rising from the congested 
mass of old roofs in the centre of the city, may be the Holy 
Sepulcher church. But all else is surprisingly new and un- 
expected. 

The opposite hills are covered with new buildings; the 
outgrowth of the city has been to the North and West. 
Here are the large public institutions, hospitals and 



NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



139 



churches, mingled with a new city of red-roofed houses, far 
more extensive than that within the walls ; amid which rise 
stately poplars, and occasional windmills wave their arms of 
industry. 




OUTSIDE THE JAFFA GATE, JERUSALEM. 



"Beautiful for situation, the joy of the whole earth, is 
Mount Zion" sang the Psalmist, and we cannot wonder at 
his enthusiasm. Here are no surrounding mountains as we 
understand the term, but merely a ring of verdure covered 
hills hemming in the city on all sides. The old town occu- 
pied the central eminences and was strongly fortified, but 



140 NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



the impetus of the foreign element has pushed beyond the 
old grey walls, and the "city" proper is now superseded in 
importance by the community without the walls. 

Give Jerusalem a generation more of progress and a 
steady influx of colonists with European ideas, and the 
whithered city which for centuries has struggled to throw 
off her spell of tragic history will once more come into her 
own. 

For fifteen minutes we drive through the "outer city" 
before we pass through the historic Jaffa Gate, famous, 
through description, the world over. 

There is a three-fold enjoyment associated with all the 
"worth while" experiences of life; anticipation, realization, 
and recollection. I had looked forward to this entry into 
Jerusalem for many years, and as I write the retrospective 
pleasure is none the less keen. Without question, it was 
John L. Stoddard, that prince among men and delightful ra- 
conteur of travel experiences, 
who inspired me with the de- 
sire to see a little of the 
world and "realize history" 
as he tersely puts it. 

It was my privilege to 
meet Mr. Stoddard at his vil- 
la on Lake Como in 1911, 
there to confirm my cher- 
ished ideas as to his charm- 
ing personality and that in- 
spiring presence which de- 
lighted so many audiences in 
years past. 

I certainly did "realize J° HN L - stoddard 

history" as we drove into Jerusalem; history surrounded the 
dusty old carriage with a cavalcade of knights and men-at- 
arms, and I felt myself one of a mighty company, who, hav- 
ing withstood the shock of battle and beaten down the last 




NAZARETH AND SAMARIA 



141 



stubborn resistance of the enemy, poured into the breach 
between the battered walls and, with shouts of victory, un- 
furled the banner of the cross. 

But another treat awaited me in the shape of a 
batch of letters from friends at home — a pleasure which 




GODFREY DE BOUILLON ENTERING JERUSALEM, 1099. 



was not vouchsafed to the Crusading hosts. As I tightly 
clutched my precious missives, and our carriage turned again 
and rolled out to the hotel on the Jaffa road, I felt my- 
self happier than Godfrey de Bouillon the conqueror. I 
realized that glory is not everything in life. 

To have a jriend is a greater solace than to be the cen- 
ter of an applauding multitude or to share in the jubilations 
of triumph; to love and to be loved is far better than to 
wear a crown, for "kind hearts are more than coronets, and 
simple faith than Norman blood." 



HE Jaffa Gate marks the beginning and the ending of 
Jerusalem. What the Capitol is to Washington or the 
Place de la Concorde to Paris, that is the Jaffa Gate to 
the Holy City. Countless travelers have described this his- 
toric portal, and long before we had seen it we knew what to 
expect : — the ever passing stream of varied humanity, the 
noise, the confusion, the picturesque; — just such a motley 
throng as must have passed through the same old gate at the 
time of the Jewish Passover week, two thousand years ago, 
when from all the country side the faithful flocked in to the 
Temple of Jehovah. 

We say "the same old gate". This is not strictly true, 
however, for upon the destruction of Jerusalem by Titus the 
walls were almost completely leveled. But it was in the 
same place, apparently, and upon the foundation stones of 
the Jaffa Gate of the Bible that the present piers of masonry 
were erected. For the most part, the old grey walls of to- 
day date from the time of Saladin, with occasional restora- 
tions by his successors. 

In 1906, however, a modern touch was added, when 
Emperor William of Germany, as a memento of his visit to 
the city, caused an elaborate clock-tower to be erected on the 




144 ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



North-west bastion of the gate. The new white stone stands 
out in sharp contrast to the old grey battlements on either 
hand. The dials upon its four faces are supposed to indicate 
the time of day according to the European and the Moslem 
reckonings, but its mechanism seemed to have gone sadly 
awry at the time of my visit, for neither side of the clock 
agreed with my watch by many hours. 




A STREET WITHIN THE WALLS. 



The visit of the German emperor was a memorable one 
in many ways. Realizing the political opportunities oc- 
casioned by such a pilgrimage, his courtesies and benefi- 
cences were most judiciously disposed, and created a very 
favorable impression among the people. 

As might have been expected, the friendship between 
the Imperial German Government and the "Sublime Porte", 
which has been proverbial, reached its culmination in a 
military alliance at a crucial time in German affairs. 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



145 



One amusing incident in connection with the Kaiser's 
visit was narrated in my hearing. Jerusalem is by no means 
a clean city to-day, but its old time condition is said to have 
been scandalous. The local authorities deemed it expedient 
to make a good impression upon the royal visitor, and a gen- 
eral "clean up" was inaugurated. Tons of rubbish and filth 

were collected. 

Then arose the 
problem of 
what to do 
with it. No 
dumping place 
being consid- 
ered available, 
it was decided 
to condemn a 
street within 
the city, and 
give over the 
old stone 
shops to the 
purpose of re- 
ceiving the 
refuse. So to- 
day the visitor 
to Jerusalem 

is shown a street like unto the "Street of Tombs" at Pom- 
peii, in which all the shop fronts for a considerable section 
have been walled up. Behind these sealed doors and win- 
dows the dirt is kept in storage; waiting the Judgment Day. 
I suppose, when all wrongs shall be made right. 

There is a little breathing space just inside the Jaffa 
Gate, — a corner or two just opposite the walls of the old 
Citadel, where one can stretch his elbows and realize that he 
is leally in Jerusalem, before plunging into and losing him- 
self in the maze of narrow streets which characterize old Je- 




THE CITADEL. 



146 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



rusalem, like every other Turkish city. On one of these 
corners is the store of the American Colony, with a charm- 
ing display of curios, novelties and Eastern merchandise ; in 
fact, this establishment is a link connecting Palestine with 
the homeland. If there are 
any Americans in or about Je- 
rusalem the visitor will usu- 
ally find some of them at the 
'Colony store'. Almost oppo- 
site is the Austrian Post Of- 
fice and "Cook's" — that name 
and sign which have smoothed 
the paths and cheered the 
hearts of many bewildered 
travelers. Since the beginning 
of the European war there has, 
unfortunately, been little 
need of tourist agencies. More- 
over, the absence of visitors 
has been a source of real priva- 
tion to hundreds of persons in 
and around Jerusalem. Many 
industrious Christian women 
among the native inhabitants 
who have been helped by the 
members of the American col- 
ony, have found themselves in 
destitute circumstances be- 
cause Mr. and Mrs. Vester, 
who preside over the 'Colony 
store', were no longer able to 
dispose of the laces and bits 
of handiwork which had been 
for years their source of in- 
come. I am informed that 
the Vesters, in common with 



OLD TESTAMENT JERUSA- 
LEM. Ancient Jerusalem was 
deemed impregnable, yet in its event 
ful history it has been besieged at 
least twenty-four times and in al- 
most every case its walls have been 
cast down and the city devastated. 
Its very strength has been its de- 
struction. Its fortified hills were 
the pride of the ancient Jebusites of 
Canaan, the 'Jebusi' of Joshua 18, 
28. From Egyptian sources we learn 
that 'Urusalim' was regarded as one 
of the prominent cities of South 
Palestine as early as 1400 B. C. 
Prior to that date all is shrouded 
in mystery. Some try to identify 
Jerusalem with the 'Salem' of Gen- 
esis 14, 18 ; the 'city of Melchize- 
dek'. It is certain, however, that 
its superb situation and its defen- 
sive possibilities appealed to the in- 
habitants of the land at a very re- 
mote period. 

Authorities differ as to the exact 
chronology, but we may well as- 
sume that Saul, the first Hebrew 
king, reigned from 1030 to 1011 
B. C. David, who ruled Israel 
1011 — 972, made it his business to 
subjugate Jerusalem, allowing the 
Jebusites to remain with the He- 
brews, and expanding the somewhat 
primitive town into a pretentious 
city. It was Solomon, the great 
master-builder, who further beauti- 
fied the city, erecting therein a lux- 
urious palace and the first Jewish 
temple. As to the Temple site, there 
is no question; but antiquarians 
wrangle over the location of the 
City of David and Solomon. Most 
probablv it extended further to the 
South and West than the present 
citv, occupying the 'Zion suburb' of 
to-'dav. After the division of the 
kingdom in 933 B. C, Jerusalem 
became the capital of Judah. In the 
reign of Rehoboam it was com- 
pelled to surrender to the Egyptian 
monarch Shishak, on which occa- 
sion the temple and palace were de- 
spoiled of the riches accumulated by 
Solomon. Under Jehoram the tem- 
ple was again plundered by Arabian 
and Philistine tribes. 

Omri and Jehu, kings of Israel s 
ten tribes, built their palaces at 
Samaria and Shechem. We find 
their king Jehoash administering 
signal chastisement to Judah, when 
he took Jerusalem and partly leveled 
the walls, (2 Kings XIV) Uzziah 
the son of Amaziah, re-established 
the prosperity of Jerusalem. 

We now come to the period of 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



147 



Eastern invasion. The monarchs of 
Assyria cast longing eyes upon Je- 
rusalem and eagerly sought and 
found pretext for operations against 
it. "When they took Samaria in 
722 — 720 B. C, it may be said that 
the Israelitish kingdom terminated, 
for the majority of the people were 
taken into captivity. They probably 
intermingled with the people of As- 
syria, for they never returned to 
Palestine, and hence are frequently 
referred to as the 'ten lost tribes' 
of Israel. 

Already Judah was beginning to 
feel the power of the Assyrians. 
Ahaz and Hezekiah paid them tri- 
bute. Despite the warnings of 
Isaiah, the latter ventured into an 
alliance with Egypt in the hope of 
resisting Sennacherib, whose retalia- 
tory designs against Jerusalem were 
frustrated by the somewhat miracul- 
ous destruction of his besieging ar 
my, (2 Kings, 19th Chap.) Tlu 
inspired Jewish prophets in vain 
preached loftier ideals and a closer 
observance of the old Jewish law. 
Although the worship of Jehovah 
was centralized in Jerusalem in the 
days of Josiah, (620 B. C.) the 
Hebrew nation seems to have de- 
teriorated. In 597 B. C. the king- 
dom of Judah was practically de- 
stroyed, and Nebuchadnezzar car- 
ried off king Jehoiakim and ten 
thousand captives to Babylon. A 
revolt by the last king, Zedekiah, 
resulted in the complete destruction 
of Jerusalem and Solomon's tem- 
ple in 587, and another deportation 
of its inhabitants. During the fifty 
to seventy years of the "captivity" 
Ezekiel and Jeremiah gave utter- 
ance to some of the most sublime 
appeals known to Jewish literature, 
and Daniel won favor at the court 
of Babylon, finally inducing Cyrus 
in 538 to permit the Jews to return 
to their devastated capital. Be- 
tween 520 — 515 a new temple was 
erected at Jerusalem despite the in- 
terference of the Samaritans, and 
some years later Nehemiah, a strong 
man among his people, further 
strengthened the defenses of the 
city. 

A long gap in the history of the 
Jews makes it impossible to trace 
the course of events with any de- 
gree of certainty. Although exist- 
ing, Judah and the city of Jerusa- 
lem were but a part of the Persian 
empire, following the old forms of 
worship, but with their national in- 
dependence gone. 



other Europeans and Ameri- 
cans in Jerusalem, have organ- 
ized systematic measures of re- 
lief, and have placed their 
time and means at the disposal 
of the unfortunate. But pros- 
perity is bound to return, and 
when it does let us hope that 
the diverted stream of travel- 
ers may prove to be 'good 
spenders'. 

Completely filling the corner 
of the wall adjacent to the 
Jaffa Gate, and flanking the 
aforesaid 'breathing space' is 
the El-Kala fortification or 
Citadel, which corresponds to 
the town barracks. On the 
town side it is divided from 
the street by a dry moat, while 
outwardly its buttressed walls 
drop sharply away to the val- 
ley and the Bethlehem road. 
This group of buildings, often 
referred to in error s the 'Cas- 
tle of David', dates for the 
most part from the beginning 
of the 14th century. But it 
was on this site that Herod's 
palace stood, and it is usually 
agreed that the walls of the 
present fortress now forming 
the right defense of the Jaffa Gate, and the interesting tower 
shown in our picture, which spans the moat at the North- 
east corner, are built upon the large drafted foundations of 
Herod's ancient towers; known to history as 'Hippicus' and 



148 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



'Phasael'. There is no more impressive corner of Jerusalem 
than this group of weather beaten towers. Seen from the 
Bethlehem roadway, below and without the gate, they pre- 
sent a striking picture of defensive strength. Indeed, in 
olden times Jerusalem must have been a 'tough nut to 
crack' ; built upon natural rocky elevations, hemmed in by 
deep valleys, and protected by an encircling belt of masonry 
of which this corner is typical. But in these twentieth cen- 
tury days of concrete redoubts, disappearing guns, and '42 
centimetres' — the formidable looking walls are valueless. 

Standing out boldly above the confusion of Jerusalem's 
historic past, and to-day the most conspicuous building in 
the city, is the Dome of the Rock, — the 'Mosque of Omar' 
as it used to be called. Authorities wrangle over the sacred 
sites and the problematical courses of the walls which have 
succeeded one another with the passing centuries, but all 
are agreed upon the identity of the Haram-esh-Sherif with 
the Temple enclosure of Jewish history. In the company 
of two young 
English ladies 
and a gentle- 
man who has 
resided for 
some years in 
Jerusalem, we 
set out one 
morning to see 
all that was to 
be seen in this 
most famous 
of Jerusalem's 
alluring 
shrines of an- 
tiquity. We ar- 
ranged our 

route so as to the citadel from the BETH lehem road. 




ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



149 



pass through the purely Moslem quarter of Bezetha, and 
were again treated to an intimate introduction to the mean 
houses and unsanitary shops of the natives. One of the 
girls in our party was decidedly pretty; — a wealth of 
charming golden hair gave her cap the jauntiest of settings, 
— and I assure the reader that many a dark eye followed 
her sprightly figure as we threaded our way through the by- 
ways. It seemed to me that the gazes of some of the amor- 
ous natives who lounged about were a trifle too fixed, of 
which fact I am confident my companion was not unaware, 

little more 
into the open 
thoroughfares. 

In cities of 
Europe a n d 
America pub- 
lic squares and 
parks are to 
b e expected, 
but so accus- 
tomed have 
we become to 
seeing every- 
thing congest- 
ed in a Mos- 
lem city, that we pause in astonishment upon our first sight 
of the Haram. We have emerged suddenly from some arched 
alley, and find ourselves standing upon the edge of a large 
and barren plateau. It is a surprising void. The city has 
hemmed it about on all sides save that of its outer wall 
toward the Mount of Olives, yet never has a trespassing 
dwelling or shop dared to overstep the boundaries of the 
proscribed reservation. Over three hundred yards in breadth 
by half again as much in length, the sanctity of the place 
has for centuries remained inviolate. Moslem, Jew and 
Christian alike admit that here stood the temple of Herod's 




SHERIF. 



150 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 




time and before that the spacious yet more prim- 
itive sanctuary of Solomon's building. 

When the conquering Moslems possessed 
themselves of this Holy of Holies, they too decid- 
ed that its traditions should be perpetuated, and 



THE 'MOSQUE OF OMAR' AND THE 'CHAIN DOME'. 

accordingly erected over the rocky summit of Mount Moriah 
a place of prayer suited to their own particular liking. Ow- 
ing to the size of the great quadrangle and the admirable 
prospective thus afforded, the dome of Omar seems smaller 
than we had anticipated, while its color, instead of being a 
white or brown, is a vivid blue. The round leaden dome 
looks rather dull and dingy, it is true, beneath the bright 
noon-day sun; and the battered marble pavement, broken 
and weed-grown in places, tells a sad tale of decay, yet the 
Temple area is wonderfully imposing notwithstanding. It 
seems as though a voice calls to us quite clearly, as did that 
to Moses from the burning bush — "Take the shoes from off 
thy feet, for the ground whereon thou standest is holy 
ground !" And this is precisely what the visitor must do. 
Before he can enter the house of prayer he must remove his 
shoes. So at least we had been told; but we found, upon 
presenting ourselves, and having duly paid over the required 
bakshish to one of the attendants, that a less inconvenient 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



153 



operation was to be substituted. Over our shoes were tied 
sandal-like coverings of leather — many sizes too large by 
the way, — and thus sanctified, or humbled, as you choose to 
regard it, we shuffled into the sacred edifice. 

Either from without or within the Dome of the Hock is 
a most remarkable building. A nearer approach had re- 
vealed the fact 
that it was 
covered with 
glazed tiles of 
a wonderful 
light blue tint 
near the 
ground, merg- 
ing into a hue 
o f brilliant 
turquoise be- 
neath the cor- 
nice, around 
which are in- 
scribed pass- 
ages from the 
Koran in Ara- 
bian characters of gold, burned indelibly into the 
encaustic tiles. Since the thirteenth century these unfading 
gems have withstood the sunshine and the storm, and, 
scarcely faded by the lapse of a dozen lifetimes, give the 
building the appearance of being encrusted with priceless 
mosaics. 

We pass into the interior, dim and cool after the glare of 
the marble paved court without. Our feet tread noiselessly 
upon heavy Oriental carpets which, we are informed, were 
sent here as a present by the much-talked-of "sick man of 
Europe", the Ex-Sultan 'Abdul Hamid of Turkey. 

For some moments, until our eyes accustom themselves 
to the darkness, we barely discern the figures of the worship- 




INTERIOR 'DOME OF THE ROCK' 



154 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



ers, some at prayer, others moving stealthily to and fro. 
From the arched dome above there is harmonized and cast 
back to us the gentle hum of voices, the dreary music of a 
hundred murmured prayers. The sounds of our own whis- 
pered comments seem all too loud. We forget that we are m 
a Moslem shrine, for that same indescribable atmosphere 
of sanctity and age, — that same sense of peace which per- 
vades the cloisters of the Abbey or the nave of Notre Dame, 
— is present here. It is the 
house of God, the antecham- 
ber of the King, and worship 
in such a place is involuntary 
and spontaneous. 

From windows of exquisite- 
ly patterned glass far above 
the colors of the rainbow fall 
silently through the gloom 
and reveal an elaborately gild- 
ed railing in the center of the 
rotunda. Within this circular 
screen is a mass of naked rock, 
the natural and rugged summit 
of the Temple hill, which ev- 
erywhere else has been built 
upon and graded. Standing 
here before the railing, your 
guide will rehearse in a whis- 
per facts which you already 
know : that here stood the 
great altar of the Jewish Tern 
pie ; here the sacrifices of king 
and people were offered to Je 
hovah; here were consecrated 
the rulers of Judah, and proph- 
ets and warriors renewed al- 
legiance; here the Shechinah 



PTOLEMAIC and MACCABJEAN 
JERUSALEM. With the rise of 
Alexander, the Macedonian world 
conqueror", a new epoch dawns in 
the history of Jerusalem. After the 
battle of Issus in B. C. 333, Syria 
and Palestine became a part ot 
Alexander's great empire, with An- 
dromachus and later Memnon gover- 
nors of Palestine. Jerusalem had 
offered no resistance to Alexander, 
— the inhabitants, with the old na- 
tional spirit effectually crushed pro- 
bably concerning themselves little 
over a change from Persian to 
Greek masters. Upon the premature 
death of Alexander Palestine be- 
came the portion of Ptolemy the 
satrap of Egypt. In 320 Ptolemy 
(Soter) took possession of the land. 
In 314 Antigonus took Palestine 
from him, only to be restored thir- 
teen years later after the battle of 
Ipsus*. For five or six generations 
Jerusalem escaped further blood- 
shed During the next hundred 
years three other Ptolemies came 
and went, concerning themselves 
more with their Egyptian affairs 
than those of Palestine. Between 
217 B C and 200, Antiochus III, 
called 'the great", a prince of the 
Selucidae, rulers of Syria, first cap- 
tured and again lost Palestine to the 
fifth Ptolemy, finally regaining the 
country in 198 after the battle of 
Paneas. This ruler passed on the 
Jewish dominions to his successors 
The fourth Antiochus, (Epiphanes) 
attempted to foist the Greek religion 
upon the Jews. Again Jerusalem 
witnessed scenes of carnage. In 
170 — 168 the temple and city were 
twice plundered. At last the old 
time spirit of the Jews was aroused 
the time was ripe for revolt, and th 
Asmonean Matthathias raised the 
standard of independence, B. O 

16 Now, for a time, the Jews figure 
again in history. A year later Ju- 
das Maccabaeus, son of Mattathias, 
signally defeated three Syrian gen- 
erals and fortified the temple hill. 
The despoiled sanctuary was rededi- 
cated and Judas successfully pur- 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



155 



glory overspread the Ark of 
the Covenant in the dreaded 
Holy of Holies ! 

We simply cannot grasp the 
thought, — the grandeur of 
the place enhanced by the 
weight of years, — the hopes 
and fears, the prayers and 
tears, the shouts of victory 
and the lamentations of a 
stricken people are crystalized 
in the gigantic protuberance 
of greyish rock before us. By 
right it is to the Jew and not 
the Moslem that this temple 
should belong; but the follow- 
ers of Mohammed, venerating 
all that precedes the Christian 
era, feel that it is a part of 
their own heritage. Hence the 
followers of Christ and those 
of the faith who rejected Him 
are both permitted here only 
by the sufferance of the Mos- 
lems. Some orthodox Jews 
will never enter the Haram, 
however, as they dread the 
possibility of sinning by treading upon the site of the Holy 
of Holies. 

A flight of steps leads down to a cavern beneath the 
massive rock, which some think was a reservoir or a recep- 
tacle for the sacrificial blood which flowed from the altar 
above, from which it was drained off into the Kedron by 
means of subterranean conduits. At present this cave is 
regarded with great awe by the Moslems, who associate with 
it all manner of diverse traditions ; some claiming that it is 



sued his campaigns. He suffered a 
reverse at the hands of Lysias, re- 
gent and general of Antiochus V, 
but Lysias, in concluding peace, 
granted to the Jews freedom of wor- 
ship, although he maintained a Sy- 
rian garrison in the city. In 161 
Judas again comes to the forefront 
but is killed in battle. For twenty 
years the Maccabaean high priests 
held temporal suzerainty at Jerusa- 
lem. In 142 Demetrius' II of Syria 
acknowledged the independence of 
Jrdea. The same year the high 
priest Simon,- brother of Judas Mac- 
cabaeus, became hereditary prince, 
thus founding the Asmonean dynas- 
ty. Under his son, John Hyrcanus, 
Jerusalem in 134 was once more 
taken by the Syrians and the walls 
demolished. A few years later, 
when the fortunes of war again 
favored the Jews, they were once 
more rebuilt and the fortification of 
the "Baris" erected overlooking the 
temple. John Hyrcanus conquered 
Samaria and Peraea. Five Jewish 
rulers followed, none so able as 
John. Internal dissension, so often 
the cause of downfall, again broke 
out among the Jews, giving Rome an 
excuse for interference. Alreadv 
the new world empire had influ- 
enced affairs in Syria, and in 63 
Pompey captured Jerusalem. Ex- 
asperated by the obstinate resistance 
of the Jews, the Romans committed 
acts of fearful retaliation, violating 
the temple but singularly enough 
sparing for the time the sacred 
treasure and articles of worship. It 
is said that 12 000 Jews perished 
in this struggle. For the next twen- 
ty years Hyrcanus II reigned under 
Roman suffrage. The Jewish pow- 
er, however, was now fast waning ; 
there was a destructive Parthian 
incursion in B. C. 40, feebly re- 
sisted. Herod the Idumaean ' then 
obtained from his Roman patrons 
the sole governorship of Judea, con- 
quering Jerusalem in the year 37. 
and entering upon his office after a 
general massacre. 



156 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 




From painting by Heyaz. 

THE DESTRUCTION OF JERUSALEM 



the gate to Hell, others that beneath it flow the rivers ol 
Paradise. Mohammed prayed under the rock, so 'tis saia, 
and enjoined his followers to do likewise, affirming that one 
prayer here was worth a thousand elsewhere. It is therefore 
much frequented by devout Mohammedans, some of whom 
work themselves into a veritable frenzy of religious fervor. 

As we turned and were ascending the steps leading to 
the body of the mosque, my friend pointed to a small hole in 
one of the beautifully colored windows above, directly in line 
with the opening of the stairway. 'That", said he, " calls 
to mind a tragedy which occurred on this spot but a few 
years ago." We were all attention as he continued. "A 
party of Americans were visiting here and, chatting gaily 
among themselves, were about to descend into this hollow. 
Suddenly two pistol shots rang out. There was a scream of 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM. 



157 



fright and pain and one of the ladies fell to the floor serious- 
ly wounded, while out from the cave and up these stairs 
rushed a wild-eyed fanatic brandishing a smoking revolver. 
Resentful that his prayers had been disturbed, he had 
wrathfully fired point blank at the company of visitors. 

"The injured woman was given such aid as was possi- 
ble, while the culprit was seized and thrown into prison. 
When it was established that the unfortunate victim would 
probably be permanently disabled, a great hue and cry was 
raised by the Americans in Jerusalem, and a strong protest 
was lodged with the Turkish authorities against such acts of 
fanaticism. Our consul appeared before the Mutesarrif with 
his complaints. The complacent old Turk listened atten- 
tively, then delivered himself of a speech, in substance as 
follows : "This is an unfortunate incident, I grant, but it was 
the act of a madman, and it was the first tragedy of its kind. 
You, as an American, ought to be able to understand this; 
you have madmen and fanatics in your country as well. Not 
merely one, but three of your Presidents have come to un- 
timely ends through the rash deeds of irresponsible assassins. 
You certainly can understand and overlook' ! His logic was 
surely convincing. But whenever I see that bullet hole in 
the window, marking the course of the shot that went wild, 
I tread a little more softly here." 

It is indeed true that the spirit of fanaticism among the 
Moslems has made effective research work in the Temple 
area and in many oth- 
er parts of Jerusalem 
an impossibility. It has 
always been supposed 
that numerous hidden 
chambers and passages 
existed beneath the 
Temple hill, penetrat- 
ing under the level of 
the Upper City and 

THE 'ARCH OF TITUS' AT ROME. 




158 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



even down toward the Pool of Siloam and the Kedron Val- 
ley. Adventurous spirits have imagined that somewhere in 
Jerusalem must still be hidden the never-discovered treasure 
of the Temple. We know that upon the destruction of 
Herod's sanctuary by Titus the seven branched candlestick 
and the table of the shewbread were carried to Rome and 
there displayed in the triumphal procession. We have seen 
proof of this upon the entablature of the Arch of Titus, just 
outside the Forum, in the Eternal City. Perhaps these price- 
less relics may some day 
be brought to light in 
Rome, but what about 
the Ark of the Cove- 
nant and the supposed 
store of wealth in the 
Temple vaults ? 

In 1911, Captain Par- 
ker and some other En- 
glishmen, with the evi- 
dent connivance of one 
of the custodians, un- 
dertook to surreptit- 
iously excavate within 
the Temple area and 
even beneath the floor 
of the Mosque itself. 
Working at night and 
at times when the building was deserted, they managed to 
continue for weeks without attracting suspicion. Carefully 
they burrowed and tunneled, concealing all traces of dirt and 
rubbish, — like Union soldiers attempting to dig their way 
out of Libby Prison in war days. 

Laboring, as they naturally were, under the greatest 
disadvantages, their efforts were fruitless; and nothing 
worth-while was brought to light. They persisted, how- 
ever, until the plot was suddenly discovered; when, amid 




ENTABLATURE, ARCH OF TITUS. 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



159 



the ensuing confusion and excitement, the adventurous 
Englishmen managed to escape from Jerusalem only by 
precipitate flight. Had they been captured they might have 
been in gravest danger, for the entire Moslem world was 
stirred at the news of the sacrilege in a spot next only in 
sanctity to Mecca or Medina. Even from far away India 
came a delegation, protesting and demanding that condign 
and summary punishment be meted out to the despoilers of 
the sanctuary. For a time serious political complications 




JERUSALEM AT THE TIME OF HEROD. 

seemed imminent. Here in America the first press reports 
were somewhat perverted, one Metropolitan newspaper 
coming out with the startling announcement that the "Ark 
of the Covenant had been discovered beneath the Mosque 
of Omar !" 

In future years the veil will be lifted, and systematic 
and properly supervised excavations will be permitted. Then 
shall the debris of ages be finally sifted, and between the 
strata of centuries, shall be revealed indubitable proof of 
Jerusalem's eventful history, with the clearing up, perhaps, 
of some of the questions which have vexed our students and 
historians. 



160 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



As to the Ark of the Covenant; there used to be a Jew- 
ish tradition to the effect that Jeremiah caused it to be con- 
cealed in a cave on Mount Nebo; but, like the place of 
Moses' burial, no man knoweth its whereabouts. There may 
possibly have been several such shrines, of which no traces 
exist to-day. 

What a dream for an archaeologist ! To be fortunate 

enough to discover, 
in the forgotten 
fastnesses of the 
Judean hills, some 
remnant of the 
'Mercy Seat', — be 
it only a few hand- 
fuls of cedar dust 
and gold, and to 
present to the 
world the most 
sacred relic of his- 
tory, — the tangi- 

VIEW FROM THE DOME OF OMAR, \[ n ]^ between 

LOOKING TOWARD THE J ehovah and Hi g ^hoSCU People.' 
UPPER CITY. If t() obtain per , 

mission to ascend to the roof of the 'Mosque of 
Omar', some very comprehensive views of Jerusalem will 
reward your efforts. The most interesting, in my opinion, is 
that toward the South-west. Directly below us are the 




Western limits of the Temple 
enclosure : — according to the 
late Dr. Schick, the Holy of 
Holies of Herod's temple must 
have been located very near 
this spot, rising like a pros- 
cenium above the wonderful 
architectural maze of the 
Temple's buildings and courts. 



The story of ROMAN JERUSA- 
LEM properly begins with Herod 
the Great. More Roman than Jew, 
Herod managed throughout his tur- 
brlent career to keep in favor at 
Rome, realizing that it was by Ro- 
man support alone that he was tol- 
erated in Jerusalem. Although his 
domestic life was most unhappy, and 
he was personally cruel and crafty, 
he attempted to mend the affairs 
of his kingdom by rebuilding the 
temple on a scale of great magnifi- 
cence. His sumptuous palace ri- 
valed that of Solomon, and it is 
probable that, under Herod, Jeru- 
salem attained a degree of architec- 



ANCIENT 



JERUSALEM 



161 



tural beauty and strength of fortifi- 
cations nes'er before approached. 
The town wall had three score tow- 
ers, there was a theatre, a civic 
forum and an athletic court. Thus 
was Jerusalem at the beginning 
of the Christian era, the center to 
which multitudes of Jews resorted 
at the time of the Passover, crowd- 
ing the congested city to the limit; 
some believe their numbers ran up 
to the two million mark. Herod 
died shortly after the birth of Christ 
and his kingdom was divided under 
the supervision of Rome. Archel- 
aus, his son, received Samaria, Ju- 
dea and Idumaea, but in A. D. 6 
this territory was added to the Ro- 
man province of Syria, and Judea 
was governed directly by a procura- 
tor. Such was the office of Coponi- 
us and later of Pilate. The latter 
so 'tis said, was a renegade Span- 
iard who had secured his appoint- 
ment through the influence of Se- 
janus, Tiberius' minister of state, 
accounted the most notorious "graf- 
ter" of antiquity. 

The Jews chafed fearfully under 
the Roman yoke, now bearing di- 
rectly upon their shoulders, while 
their rabbis exhorted them to expect 
the long promised Messiah. Hence 
the Jews were bitterly disappointed 
in Christ, who desired no temporal 
power. Had Jesus chosen so to do, 
He could undoubtedly have precipi- 
tated then and there a war of liber- 
ation. In the meantime, the native 
princes maintained a vestige of au- 
thority, much as do the Indian ra- 
jahs to-day. At the time of the cru- 
cifixion of Jesus, therefore, we have 
three tribunals, and as many divi- 
sions of authority : — the Jewish 
Sanhedrim, with power curtailed 
and limited to religious affairs ; the 
complimentary authority of Herod 
Antipas, then ruling nominally in 
Galilee; and the real judgment* hall 
of Pilate, which represented the 
might of Rome. Pilate gave up 
Christ to the clamorous Jews — 
whom he thoroughly detested — only 
because his own position with a 
small garrison was precarious, and 
he dreaded an insurrection at a 
time when the city was crowded 
with zealots from all the country 
round. 

In 41 A. D. Herod Agrippa, the 
grandson of Herod the Great, was, 
by the favor of Claudius, vested 
with the entire government of Ju- 
dea. He endeavored to please the 
Jews and by so doing earned for 
himself an unenviable scriptural re- 
cord as a persecutor of the Chris- 
tians. His sudden death in 44 
A. D. was considered by them a just 
retribution. This monarch further 
added to the defences of Jerusalem, 
but left a breach in the walls for 
fear of displeasing his benefactor, 
Claudius. The dominions of Agrip- 
pa II were confined to a few Gali- 
lean towns. 



The accompanying illustra- 
tion well portrays the situa- 
tion of the 'Upper Town' (the 
Zion suburb), and the slight 
intervening depression of the 
Tyropceon Valley. In classic 
times some sort of a viaduct 
spanned the head of this little 
valley; and the remains of an 
arch have been found spring- 
ing from the temple founda- 
tions, which seems to corro- 
borate the statements of an- 
cient writers. 

The Dome of the Rock is, 
by the way, octagonal in 
shape, and the stone platform 
upon which it is built is raised 
a few feet above the level of 
the Haram. Several triple 
arched gateways, isolated and 
without doors of any descrip- 
tion, mark the steps of descent, 
and in and about the enclosure 
are half a dozen fountains, 
the places of ablution so neces- 
sary to the Moslem' s peace of 
mind. 

Like a miniature replica of 
the greater central dome, ex- 
cept for the enclosing walls, 
stands the beautiful little 
Kubbet es-Silseleh or Chain 
Dome, fancifully called "Da- 
vid's place of Judgment'. It 
is an elegant and unique gem 



162 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



of architecture, with columns 
undoubtedly taken from older 
buildings, and its floor decorat- 
ed with admirable mosaics. 

Occupying the Southern ex- 
tremity of the historic area is 
the Mesjid el-Aksa, or the Ak- 
sa Mosque. The building 
probably dates from the time 
of Justinian, being an ancient 
Christian basilica, confiscated 
and turned into a mosque by 
the Caliph Omar and enriched 
by his successors. 

Of a truth, as we tread the 
pavement of the Temple area, 
we realize that Jerusalem, the 
beloved Zion of the Jewish na- 
tion, the Holy City of the 
Christians, is to-day thor- 
oughly Moslem. The follow- 
ers of the Prophet control the 
city as regards population and 
possession, which latter is 
'nine points of the law' ! In 
the Haram one feels conscious 
that he is treading upon well 
nigh forbidden ground, that 
his presence is merely tolerat- 
ed; in fact he would not be 
surprised if, at any time, he 
were unceremoniously ejected 
from the sacred precincts or 
even thrown into prison. We 
experience sensations akin to 
those of Col. Landor when 



It was- under the misrule of the 
Roman, Gessius Florus, that a na- 
tional insurrection broke out with 
great fury, beginning at Jerusalem. 
The Zealots or war party gamed 
possession of the temple and after- 
ward the upper city with the Ro- 
man garrison. The Roman general 
Gallus attempted in vain to stem 
the tide; for a time he besieged 
Jerusalem but abandoned his efforts 
and withdrew toward Gibeon. All 
over Palestine the flame burst forth 
and the Jews seemed likely to re- 
peat the triumphs of the Maccabees. 
Rome was slow in moving, but when 
in 67 Vespasian was dispatched to 
Palestine, he brought with him sixty 
thousand of the finest soldiers in the 
world. Beginning in Galilee, he 
succeeded in putting down the re- 
volt, and capturing the stronghold of 
Jotapata. At last he advanced tow- 
ard Jerusalem, but shortly returned 
to Rome to assume the purple, leav- 
ing his son Titus to continue the 
investment of the city. Within Je- 
rusalem itself there existed rival fac- 
tions. The worst element took pos- 
session of the temple after a terri- 
ble struggle with the moderate party 
in which thousands of the latter 
perished, yet when the Romans ap- 
peared before the walls there were 
still four parties within the city. The 
story of the siege and capture of 
Jerusalem fills perhaps the most fas- 
cinating page in history : never was 
there a braver defence, never a more 
ablv conducted military operation. 
From April to September, in the 
year 70, Titus hammered away; 
famine raged within the city; and 
gradually the North West quarter, 
then the' Temple, and finally the up- 
per city were taken and destroyed. 
The city was laid waste, its surviv- 
ing inhabitants were either executed 
or sold as slaves, and where once 
the "Holy City" had stood there 
was naught but ruin. 

In 130 the Emperor Hadrian 
erected a new Roman town on the 
site of the old Jersualem, calling 
it /Elia Capitolina. The remnant 
of the Jewish population was now 
strongest in Galilee. In 132-135 
Bar Cochba, who was recognized as 
the Messiah by certain learned 
Hebrews, inaugurated another fruit- 
less revolt. After this had been 
sternly suppressed by the Romans, 
the Jews were forbidden to enter 
the rebuilt Jerusalem. 

For years Jerusalem had no his- 
tory. Its old glory had indeed de- 
parted. But through veneration of 
the One who had here been cruci- 
fied a new glory gradually sur- 
rounded the place. The rising tide 
of Christianity, struggling against 
the prejudice of the Roman world, 
finally obtained recognition under 
Constantine, Roman emporer, 306- 
337, and focused attention once 
more upon ancient Jerusalem. The 
Empress Helena, mother of Con- 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



163 



stantine, visited Jerusalem in 326, 
superintended excavations, estab- 
lished the "sacred sites", and 
founded Christian churches here. 
Constantine moreover permitted the 
Jews to return to Jerusalem, where, 
in 339, they made another feeble 
attempt to throw off Roman suprem- 
acy. The pagan emperor. Julian, 
favored the Jews above the Christians 
and offered them permission to 
again build their temple. 

As Rome declined, Christianity 
rose, and instead of emperors, we 
find mention of popes and bishops. 
After the year 450, pilgrimages to 
Jerusalem became popular: the By- 
zantine emperor, Justinian (527- 
565) erected here a hospice for 
strangers and pilgrims, as did also 
Pope Gregory the Great, (590-604). 



first he penetrated into Thib- 
et, and entered Lhasa, the 
forbidden capital of Budd- 
hism. 

But we encounter no out- 
ward manifestations of dis- 
courtesy. Within the historic 
Aksa Mosque we wander about 
at will, observing the devo- 
tions of the worshipers. 

I never can question the 
sincerity of Moslem prayers. Sometimes their public genu- 
flections appear Pharisaical, but their spirit is invariably 
that of deep reverence and contrition, and prayer is an in- 
dispensable part of their daily lives, — whether beneath the 
minaret of a mosque or away off in the desert, alone and 
under the canopy of heaven. I recall a stableman at Luxor, 
in Egypt, whom I had frequent occasion to observe in the 




THE MOSQUE 

OF EL AKSA 



From the roof of the Mosque of Omar, showing the clumsy leaded dome in the fore- 
ground. In the distance, the outlying Hills beyond the Valley of Hinom. 



164 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM. 



attitude of prayer. The plain, flat board upon which he 
prostrated himself with face toward Mecca had been worn 
smooth and become highly polished through continual ser- 
vice. There was not a suspicion of cant in his prayers; they 
came from the heart of a man, expressing, as all men must 
at times, the innate longing of the creature for communion 
with and help from the Creator. 

And so as I watched the earnest supplicants, prone upon 
the carpeted pavement or with eyes lifted toward the ancient 
rafters, I asked myself the question, "What would Jesus do 
and say" ? Would He cast them out from the Temple pre- 
cincts like the money-changers of old who trafficked upon 
this very spot, or would He assail them bitterly as He did 
the self-righteous Pharisees ? I think not. 

"And when ye pray," He commanded, "say Our Father 

» Surely the oft ascending "Allah, Allah !" cannot 

fall unheeded to the ground. We, whom circumstance, more 
than conviction, has made to bear the name of Christian, 
must not close our eyes to the greater truth. Had we been 
born in Jerusalem, of Arabian blood, and the offsprings of 
generations of blind conviction that There is but one God, 
and Mohammed is His prophet', we too should have un- 
questioningly echoed the prayers of the Koran. 

In all the sacred writ no teaching is more lovable and 
no picture more beautiful than the likeness of 'Christ, the 
Good Shepherd'. "My sheep hear My voice, and are known 
of Me", said Jesus; adding at the same time those other 
mystic yet satisfying words : "Other sheep I have which are 
not of this fold." 

Perhaps, my dark skinned brother, — thou son of the 
desert who prayest yonder, this little understood declaration 
may mean for us both a part in the life eternal ! 

Down in the extreme corner of the Haram, close by the 
wall, the visitor may descend into a series of vast under- 
ground galleries known as 'Solomon's Stables', reminding 
him somewhat of the catacombs of Rome. They were with- 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



165 



out question used by the Crusaders as stables, for through 
the corners of some of the great stone pillars holes have been 
drilled, into which were fastened the halters. 

The galleries extend Northward beyond the limits of the 
Aksa Mosque above, but in this direction they have not been 
carefully investigated. Supposedly a part of the great sys- 
tem of substructions beneath the old Hebrew Temple, they 
have a fascination which is all their own. Many Jews, it is 
said, sought refuge here when the Romans over-ran the city. 
Undoubtedly the Moslems made some restorations and 
changes here, but in the main these galleries are a unit in 
the wonderfully executed engineering plan which not only 
supplied Jerusalem with water from the neighboring hills 
by means of underground acqueducts, but consisted of a 
system of reservoirs, storehouses, — and dungeons, mayhap, 
— the existence of which we of the present day are una- 
ware. 




THE 'STABLES OF SOLOMON'. 



A number of olive trees have been planted in the Eas- 



166 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



tern half of the Haram toward Olivet, which remind the 
Yankee visitor of an ancient and unproductive apple orch- 
ard. 

Picture taking within the Temple enclosure is forbid- 
den, but luckily our pocket kodak is inconspicuous, and we 
manage to get away with a few 'snap shots' undetected. Of 
course, if one paid for the necessary permission he would 
have no difficulty in smuggling in a motion picture machine, 
or even staging a startling ^s*. melodrama with] 
the shadow of the Mos- 
que. Even Moslem devo- 
tion is not blind to the 
worth of the 
'almighty dol- 
lar' or its 
Turkish equi- 
valent. 

Walking a- 
long the para- 
pet of the 
Eastern wall, 
we come pre- 
sently upon 
the walled-up 
'Golden Gate', 

which has been thus closed for years and years. It was, m 
all probability, through the ancient East Gate, occupying 
this location, that the triumphant Christ passed into the 
city on that first Palm Sunday as the centre of an applaud- 
ing host, — the same multitude who were destined, ere the 
week was out, to howl around his cross upon the hill of 
Calvary. The Moslems now seem to cherish a fear that 
were this portal to be opened again it would presage the 
coming to power once more of the Christian hosts. 

Before leaving the confines of the Temple area, let us 
spend a few moment near the Northern limits of the Haram, 




NEAR THE 'TOWER OF ANTONIA' 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



lb7 



where once stood the 'Tower of Antonia', a site now occu- 
pied by a Turkish barrack commanding the entire court. 
Since very ancient times a fortification has occupied this 
station. The old outlying tower which stood at this point 
was known as the 'Baris' in the times of the Maccabees, and 
was re-fortified by Herod. For strategic and political reasons 
the Romans deemed it expedient to maintain a sturdy bul- 
wark of defense here, — and throughout the period of 
Roman supremacy in Jerusalem a close watch was main- 
tained from this vantage point upon the activities of the 
Hebrew zealots in and around the Temple. The Roman 
governors ever held themselves ready to sally forth and to 
use stern repressive measures when occasion demanded. In 
the opinion of many students, the Prsetorium, where Pilate 
sat in judgment, immediately adjoined the ancient Tower 
of Antonia. Here too, Paul was conveyed for safety when 
threatened by the mob of enraged Jews who charged him 
with desecrating the Temple 
by introducing a gentile within 
the inner court; and moreover 
i t was from 
the steps of 
the tower that 
Paul turned 
upon his accu- 
sers and de- 
livered his first 
great dis- 
course, the be- 
ginning of his 
in f 1 ue n tial 
ministry. Two 
years before I 
had been priv- 
ileged to stand 

where his life's the i ecce homo arch. 




168 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



work ended, a few miles beyond the walls of imperial Rome ! 
Surely these little glimpses of the world here and there give 
one a wonderfully clear con- 
ception of history. 

We have now seen most of 
the Vital points' in the Tem- 
ple reservation; next in in- 
terest and logical sequence is 
the Holy Sepulcher Church. 

The Church of the Holy 
Sepulcher has from very ear- 
ly times been recognized and 
affirmed by the highest au- 
thorities of the Christian 
Church as genuine. For the 
devout pilgrim and the true 
believer there can be no con- 
troversy on a settled point of 
orthodox Roman Catholic be- 
lief. There are those, how- 
ever, who are not committed 
to the ecclesiastical view, and 
who have felt themselves con- 
strained to examine the old 
traditions by the light of 
modern knowledge and recent 
discoveries. 

Students of the scriptures, 
historians, archaeologists, and 
men of letters in all profes- 
sional Walks of life have re- 
garded with keenest interest 
the so-called "Holy Sites" in 
and around Jerusalem. There 
are some about the authentici- 
ty of which there can be little 



MEDIEVAL JERUSALEM. The 
fourth act in the thrilling drama of 
Jerusalem's history ushers in the 
conquering followers of Mohammed. 
In the brief interlude immediately 
preceding, the Persians had taken 
Jerusalem (614), but in 628 the 
Byzantine emperor Heraclius again 
conquered Syria. 

Mohammed was born in Mecca in 
570 or 571. About the j ear 610 
he first appeared as a prophet and 
teacher in his own village and 
gained almost instant recognition. 
The true Moslem era dates properly 
from 622, the year of the Hegira, 
or Hijra, as it is called, when 
Mohammed emigrated with a small 
body of adherents to Medina. We 
find a modern parallel of this event 
in the Mormon migration to Utah. 
Mohammed's career is one of the 
most singular in history. He ultim- 
ately secured a following among the 
restless Arabian tribesmen, to whom 
his doctrines of conquest presented 
an instant appeal. As the ruler of 
an almost united Arabia, and a fast 
spreading dominion over all the 
nomadic tribes of the East, he 
passed away in 632 at Medina. His 
work, however, was instantly taken 
up by others almost equally as 
zealous, and the successors of "the 
Prophet", always recognizing him 
as the head and founder of their 
religion, spread with their conquer- 
ing and proselyting hordes over all 
the Southern and Eastern border- 
lands of the Mediterranean. 

It was the Caliph Omar, the im- 
mediate successor of Mohammed, 
who captured Jerusalem in 637, but 
treated the inhabitants with clem- 
ency. The Moslems were not at first 
bitterly hostile to the Christians or 
the Jews, and do not seem to have 
prohibited them either from observ- 
ing their usual forms of worship or 
from pilgrimages to the sacred sites 
in the Holy City. It is even re- 
corded that the Caliph Harum er- 
Rashid sent to Charlemagne the keys 
of the Holy Sepulchre. On the 
other hand, many of the sovereigns 
of Europe sent to Jerusalem con- 
tributions for the support of the 
Christian pilgrims. The Moslems 
bestowed upon the city the name of 
El-Kuds, ('the Sanctuary') and 
venerated all its Old Testament as- 
sociations. 

To understand the history of the 
Moslem world it must be borne in 
mind that, as the years passed, the 
followers of Mohammed became 
much divided politically. While 
possessing a universal form of wor- 
ship and an allegiance to Mohammed 
there were many rival Caliphs and 



ANCIENT 



JERrSALE M 



169 



Einirs, many of them able men, with 
•countless diverse interests and num- 
erous fanatical followings. Hence, 
in 969, Jerusalem fell into the pos- 
session of the Egyptian Fatimites, 
and in the second half of the 11th 
Century it was involved in the con- 
flicts of the Turcomans. It was 
these interminable disorders with- 
in the Moslem empire which contri- 
buted to the success of the 
Crusaders. 

During the First Crusade the 
Christian army advanced to the 
walls of Jerusalem on June 7th, 
1099. Among the besiegers were 
Robert of Normandy and Robert of 
Flanders, together with Raymond of 
Toulouse, Tancred and Godfrey de 
Bouillon. Their united efforts were 
crowned with success, and on the 
15th of July the city capitulated. 
Despite their holy mission, the 
Franks slew most of the Moslem and 
Jewish inhabitants and converted 
the mosques into churches. For al- 
most ninety years the Christians 
occupied the city; Godfrey de 
Bouillon, the first "king" of Jerusa- 
lem, being followed by a line of 
knights who reigned in feudal style 
at Jerusalem. Under Baldwin II, 
1118-31, the territory won by the 
Crusaders reached its greatest limits. 
About this time the Knights of St. 
John and the Templars were 
founded. The rise of the intrepid 
Saladin, who had already made him- 
self master of Egypt and Syria soon 
threatened the position of the 
Franks in Jerusalem. A breach of 
truce led to war, and in 1187, after 
the battle of Hattin, Saladin cap- 
tured the city, but treated the in- 
habitants with leniency. The Third 
Crusade, with Richard the Lion 
Heart as its hero, captured some 
coast towns for the Christians, and 
permission was again obtained for 
pilgrims to visit Jerusalem. 

The Fourth and Fifth Crusades, 
1204-1217, were fruitless. In 1229. 
Frederick II obtained possession of 
Jerusalem for ten years by treaty, 
and fortified the walls again, despite 
his agreement to the contrary. In 
1239, Jerusalem fell once again; 
this time to the Emir David of 
Kerak. In 1243 the Christians had 
possession for a year by treaty, then 
it was stormed successfully by the 
Moslem faction of the Kharezmians 
from Central Asia. We find that it 
next fell into possession of the 
Aiyubides. The French Crusaders 
of 1240 and 1248 met with little 
success, and the Christian knights, 
who retained only a few coast 
towns, were, after the storming of 
Acre in 1291, completely driven out 
of Palestine. 

In 1517 Jerusalem fell into the 
hands of the Osmans, or purely 
Turkish branch of the Moslems. 



question. The mystic cave of 
Machpelah at Hebron, where 
repose the remains of the He- 
brew patriarchs, jealously 
guarded by Moslem fanatics; 
the Church of the Nativity at 
Bethlehem, with its cherished 
rock-hewn manger ; the "Tem- 
ple Area"; — these and many 
others we may accept with a 
comparative degree of assur- 
ance. But the many sided de- 
bate concerning the where- 
abouts of the Tomb of Christ 
which has been going on for 
many years, warrants us in re- 
serving our own decision until 
we have thoroughly investi- 
gated the subject. 

For nearly twenty centuries 
Christianity has been the 
most powerful factor in influ- 
encing the history of the 
world. Filled with enthusiasm, 
the first disciples of the Christ 
and the so-called "Fathers of 
the Church" scattered broad- 
cast throughout the length 
and breadth of Rome's domin- 
ions the teachings of their 
Master. From the ruins of im- 
perial Rome arose the militant 
church, radiant with the first 
flush of power. Then came 
the ebb tide, and the night of 
the "Dark ages", — - yet, 



170 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 




through it all, the dim- 
ly nickering name of 
Christianity, carefully 
nutured in monastery 
or peasant's hut, fore- 
told the coming of a 
brighter day. 

Then the Crusades 
began, when Europe, 
emerging from petty 
feudal strife, united to 
regain from the Mos- 
lems the coveted Holy ' • 
Sepulcher, and the chi- j 
valry of England 
France and Germany i'* 
attempted repeatedly, " ~^ - 
at fearful cost, to se- 
cure possession of the 

Holy Land. When Godfrey de Bouillon and his victorious 
warriors entered the battle-scarred city, one can scarcely 
wonder that their zeal and ecstasy burst all bounds, and 
every stone seemed an object of veneration. Under these 
circumstances, the Crusaders were hardly in a position to be 
coldly critical, nor were they prompted by a spirit of careful 
investigation. Enough for them to be in the Holy City 
at last ! 

Yet it is largely upon the testimony of the Crusaders 
that many of our present-day traditions are based. 

Let us bear these facts in mind therefore, as we visit 
the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. 

The connecting link between the Temple area and the 
Holy Sepulcher Church is the Via Dolorosa or 'Way of Sor- 
row', the thoroughfare along which Christ is supposed to 
have traveled enroute from Pilate's tribunal to the place of 
execution. Admitting that the Prsetorium stood near the 



ALONG THE WAY OF THE CROSS. 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



171 



Castle of Antonia and the Temple precincts, it is highly 
probable that the riotous mob who followed the weary form 
of Jesus, bending beneath the heavy cross, here began to 
wend their way toward Golgotha, there to witness the con- 
cluding scene of the world's greatest tragedy. The Via 
Dolorosa is not one street, but many streets; leading 
through the heart of old Jerusalem. Here and there, along 
its course, are the traditional "stations of the cross,,' four- 
teen of them, all identified with that last pathetic journey. 




THE ENTRANCE, HOLY SEPULCHER CHURCH. 



If one could actually believe that the pavement upon 
which he walks had been trodden by the "Man of Sorrows", 
he would feel indeed that he were treading upon conse- 
crated ground. Or were it possible to believe that the suf- 
fering Jesus had really paused before the houses where to- 
day are ever-burning lamps, he could not view them without 
deep emotion. But upon the hills of Jerusalem are piled 



172 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



the wrecks of centuries, and the level of the old time street 
must be many feet below the present surface. 

Following, however, the streets which have long been 
regarded as sacred, passing the familiar "Ecce Home Arch" ; 
the "House of Veronica", the "House of Simon the Cyren- 
ean" and many others, we finally pause before the Church 
of the Holy Sepulcher itself, which is closely crowded on all 
sides by miserable houses and filthy bazars. It would be 
difficult to imagine a more dilapidated structure ; seen from 
without. A throng of mendicants and peddlers usually 
haunt the narrow courtyard, offering rosaries and crucifixes 
of olive-wood. But one doorway leads into the church, its 
companion having been walled up years ago ; directly out- 
side the entrance is a flat slab, marking the grave of an 
English knight who fell in Crusading times. 

There is, however, about the Church that which com- 
mands our reverence. A sacred edifice has occupied this 
spot for nearly fifteen centuries. The early Bishop Euse- 
bius, writing about the year 340, records that it was here, 
during the reign of Constantine, that the sacred tomb of the 
Saviour was discovered. It is also claimed that during the 
excavations conducted by the Empress Helena, mother of 
Constantine, the true cross of Christ was discovered, as well 
as those of the thieves executed with Him ! 

Since that time, traditions have piled around the spot 
and churches have been built here repeatedly, each succeed- 
ing the other as they fell in turn a prey to the ravages of 
time or man. The Crusaders erected a church here about 
the year 1100, which, although much altered and repaired, 
stood until comparatively recent years. The present edifice 
dates from 1810, when it was almost entirely rebuilt after a 
destructive fire. 

Within the church almost all the Catholic sects have 
something peculiarly their own. The Latins, Greeks, Ar- 
menians and Copts are all represented. Within the cir- 
cumscribed precincts of the church have been grouped all 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



173 



the spots which could possibly 
be associated with the Mas- 
ter's death and resurrection. 
The " Chapel of the Parting of 
the Raiment" belongs to the 
Armenians; the "Stone of 
Unction", where Christ's body 
was anointed, belongs to the 
Latins; the Copts have only a 
tiny little chapel, while the 
Greeks possess an entire wing 
of the church all to them- 
selves. 

Turkish soldiers guard the 
doorways of the Holy Sepul- 
cher Church, while within the 
edifice the priests of the di- 
verse sects freely mingle, al- 
though there is little love 
wasted between them. On 
feast days, and especially at 
Easter time, the church is 
thronged with worshipers and 
half-crazed pilgrims, among whom scenes of great disorder 
frequently occur. 

The "Holy Sepulcher" itself is a church within a 
church ! Beneath the lofty central dome has been erected 
a marble chapel, before which innumerable candles and 
lamps are burning. Over the entrance is a striking picture 
of Christ emerging from the tomb, around which is en- 
twined a profusion of gaudy garlands. The whole presents 
a bewildering spectacle of crosses and candelabra and shin- 
ing brass. 

This chapel is, of course, the Christian "Holy of Holies", 
and is the joint property of all the sects. Within, over the 
tomb, forty-three lamps are suspended, of which four belong 



MODERN JERUSALEM. Under 
Ottoman rule Jerusalem has been in- 
significant politically. The inferior- 
ity of the Turkish to the Arabian 
race has ever been apparent. None 
of the Turkish Sultans, — save per- 
haps Sultan Mahmud, (1808-1839) 
and Abdul Hamid II, who granted 
a constitution to the Turkish empire 
in 1908, — seem to have wasted 
much time or interest upon Jerusa 
lem. 

Napoleon I, after his spectacular 
enterprises in Egypt, captured Jaffa 
in 1799 and penetrated as far as 
Nazareth, but after his check at Mt 
Tabor he conveniently found him- 
self called to France, and abandoned 
any schemes he may have cherished 
for a conquest of Jerusalem 

Ibrahim Pasha, the adopted son 
of Mohammed 'Ali, victory of Egypt 
ravaging Palestine in his campaigns 
against the Turks, secured the coun- 
try for Egypt at the peace of 
Kutahya in 1833. In 1840, through 
the interference of the powers of 
Europe, Turkey was again vested 
with authority in Palestine. 

The Turco-German cordiality cul- 
minated in the war alliance of 1915, 
and Jerusalem has been a centre of 
mobilization and a base of the pro- 
jected operations against the sup- 
remacy of England in the Near 
East. ' 

It seems but an appropriate 
climax to the eventful history of 
Jerusalem to note that but a few 
months ago a German aereonaut 
circled the city, and, after a long 
flight, brought his machine to earth 
just outside the walls of the city 
above the pool of Siloam ! 



174 



ANCIENT JERUS A L E M 



to the Copts and the remainder are divided equally among 
the other three factions. These are tended constantly, and 
present a weird appearance with their tiny globes of blue, 
red, green and purple. 

Passing through a kind of vestibule with marble 
benches on either hand, we enter an ante-chamber of mod- 
ern construction. 
Here we see 
piece of stone 
encased i n a 
frame of brass, 
which is said to 
be the identical 
rock rolled away 
from the mouth 
of the sepulcher 
by angel hands. 

Finally, stoop- 
ing low, we pass 
through a nar- 
row doorway in- 
to the innermost 
chamber. It is 
a small room 

lined throughout with white marble, one half of which is 
occupied by a covered sarcophagus of stone, the top slab 
being slightly cracked. The floor has been worn into deep 
hollows by the knees of countless pilgrims, while the mar- 
ble top of the tomb has been polished smooth by reverent 
kisses. 

Others were waiting without; and I could remain but 
a few moments here. The air was heavy with the fumes of 
the two score lamps which hung above, flickering and smok- 
i ngt _ while from the body of the church was wafted in a 
cloud of incense. 

There are some who freely accept this as the Holy 




THE HOLY SEPULCHER. 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



175 



Sepulcher. Others believe that the real rock-hewn tomb of 
Christ lies beneath this gorgeous cenotaph. This is much 
nearer to the truth. 

All manner of men and women here pay homage to the 
Christ. Priest and layman, poet and peasant, the young and 
light-hearted and the feeble and forlorn. From all over the 
Christian World men and women come in an endless stream 
to worship here. 

One poor old woman attracted my attention. In tat- 
tered shawl with shoeless feet she came humbly to the 
sacred shrine, crossing herself repeatedly, and bowing to the 
ground. No one prevented her entry into the gilded tomb, 
and none restrained her as she gave her humble kiss to the 
well-worn marble. I watched her as she hobbled out; it 
seemed as though a look of joy was on her wrinkled face, 
when having passed the portal, she turned once again 
toward the tomb with bended head and lips which moved as 
if in prayer. 

The "Golgotha Chapel" situated in the Southern part 
of the church is, as it should logically be, higher than the 
body of the church. It is presumably the site of the "hill" 
where Christ died. Now, of course, all traces of natural hill 
are gone. The place is merely a chapel, with altar resplen- 
dent with golden crosses, sacred pictures and burning ta- 
pers. Beneath the altar is a hole in the marble pavement 
bordered with brass. This, it is said, is the spot where the 




cross was planted. 



Away down, below 
the floor of the church 
proper, in a sort of 
sub-cellar, is a dim, 
dark chamber where a 
candle sheds a feeble 
and uncertain light. 
It was here accord- 
ingly to tradition that 



INTERIOR OF THE HOLY SEPULCHER. 



176 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



the cross was found by the Empress Helena. This tradition- 
al cross has been divided piecemeal, and small fragments 
of the wood are said to repose in the sacred reliquaries of 
many of the world's cathedrals , 

If the Roman Catholics had complete control of this 
wonderful church, there is little doubt but that it would be 




ON THE ROOF 01 THE CHURCH. 



kept in a splendid state of dignity and repair, — but as it 
is, there is so much factional jealousy that nothing in the 
way of repairs has been attempted for nearly forty years. 

To be present in this church on a Sunday morning, 
when the various congregations are holding services simul- 
taneously under one roof, is a never-to-be-forgotten experi- 
ence. The babble of sound is quite indescribable, and sad but 
true, it is far from edifying. 

The "personnel" of the priestly custodians and the 
clergy who minister here is likewise disappointing. I have 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



177 



never seen a 
dirtier, more 
homely or 
more suspici- 
o u s looking 
collection of 
'scalliwag s'. 
There is abso- 
lutely no com- 
parison be- 
tween our own 
refined and 
cultur e d 
priests and 
this group of 
illiterate men 




GROUP OF PRIESTS. 



who bear the standards of the rival faiths at the Holy 
Sepulcher. 

Such is the accepted Church of the Holy Sepulcher as 
we see it to-day. Now, by way of contrast, let us visit the 
'Garden Tomb'. 

Without the city wall, just a little to the north of the 
famous Damascus gate, is a slight elevation with a curiously 
formed cliff facing the city, which answers in many respects 
to the New Testament descriptions of "Calvary". 

In the rugged face of the cliff there are a number of 
caverns or fissures which have evidently existed from earliest 
times. One of the largest caves has been known for years to 
travelers as the "Grotto of Jeremiah", foi>it was here, 'tis 
said, that the prophet compiled his "Lamentations". And, 
of a truth, the place is dreary enough to inspire such a pro- 
duction. There is, however, one portion of this cliff which 
we cannot overlook. Seen from almost any position it bears 
a striking resemblance to a decaying human skull, with eye- 
less sockets and sunken mouth, meriting assuredly the name 
"Golgotha", place of a skull, which we know was applied in 



178 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



Biblical times to a spot somewhere in this vicinity. 

Moreover, the hill is very near the great highway lead- 
ing northward from Jerusalem. Any object upon the hill- 
top would be plainly visible from the road, so that, if one 
hung here crucified, he would be near enough to be insulted 
or "scoffed at" by all who passed to or from the city gate. So 
prominent, in fact, is this hill, that it is visible from many 
points in the city and upon the surrounding hillsides, so that 
"those looking on from afar off" might see plainly all that 
was here transpiring. 

Mank scholars identify this spot as the place of the cru- 
cifixion of our Lord, the "green hill without the city wall.'' 

Now it transpires that the Holy Sepulcher Church of to- 
day is almost in the heart of Jerusalem, yet the scriptures 
plainly tell us that Calvary was "without the walls". Those 
who place confidence in the accepted site tell us that the 
modern walis 
of Jerusalem 
follow a course 
far different 
from that of 
classic times, 
and assure us 
that while the 
Jerusalem of 
Herod the 
Great could 
not have been 
smaller than 
it is to-day, it 
extended much 
further to the 
West, includ- 
ing the once 

populous Zion quarter (now almost deserted) and even en- 
compassing the sides of the Kedron V r alley down to the pool 




ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



179 



of Siloam. They maintain that the Herodian walls did not 
encompass the site of the present church. Yet the visitor of 
to-day, noting the surroundings and confines of the city 
must admit that nowhere, in or near Jerusalem, is there a 
spot which so aptly justifies the biblical description as the 
modern "skull hill". 

To-day it is surmounted by a Mohammedan cemetery, 
dreary and forsaken. The writer visited Jerusalem in the 




'GOLGOTHA V 



Summer, during the Moslem feast of Ramadan, and the 
cannon which fired the "sunset gun" was mounted upon this 
spot. At the close of day during this period, the Mohamme- 
dans break their fast, and the denial and slumber of the day 
give place to feasting and revelry during the hours of night. 
Every evening the welcome report of the gun could be heard 
as it reverberated from the surrounding hills, while the puff 
of blue smoke lingered for a moment over "Calvary". 

In a sheltered corner beneath the hill, there was dis- 
covered in 1867 a most striking tomb, hollowed out of the 
cliff itself. To-day it is surrounded by a charming garden, 
kept with scrupulous care, and the whole is enclosed by a 
modern wall of masonry. 



180 ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



To many tourists this sepulcher is known as the "Gor- 
don Tomb", — for Gen. Gordon, who subsequently fell at 
Khartum, visited Jerusalem in 1883 and frequently resorted 
hither. So impressed was he with its character that he 
openly avowed his belief in the authenticity of the spot. 




THE 'SUNSET GUN' ON 'CALVARY HILL'. 



Since his time, many men of prominence have been led to 
think likewise. 

Whatever view may be entertained as to the real posi- 
tion of Calvary, we know from scripture that the Holy 
Sepulcher must be sought "in the place where He was cruci- 
fied". If the real site of Calvary be once fixed, a secure basis 
will be obtained for further research, and although the exact 
spot where the Saviour's divine body was laid can never be 
certainly proved, we have the best warrant for believing that 
our Saviour's place of burial was close to the place where 
He suffered and died. This idea of course, is carried out in 
the Holy Sepulcher Church. 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



181 



In the 'Gar- 
den Tomb' the 
scriptural de- 
s c r i p t i o n 
seems entirely 
fulfilled, The 
tomb as we 
see it to-day is 
devoid of all 
decorati o n; 
simply a plain, 
rock-hewn se- 
pulcher, simi- 
lar to the hun- 
dreds of other 
Jewish tombs 
which honey- 
comb the hills 
of Palestine. 

Conducted THE green hill far away, without the city WALL', 
by the polite 

custodians, we reverently step within the doorway. The 
tomb was evidently a family tomb such as Joseph of Arama- 
thea might well have made, with an ante-chamber and a 
recess adjoining with room for three bodies, one at the end. 
as it were, and recessed, — and two at right angles. It ap- 
pears never to have been finished, for some of the surfaces 
have not been smoothed, and evidently but one body was 
laid therein. A broken slab of marble, fitted into the na- 
tural rock, forms the sarcophagus. This in itself is most 
singular. 

Not a shrine, not a picture, not a candle ! Nothing but 
the silence of a mid-summer day, broken only by the occa- 
sional buzz of a cricket without ; yet here a spirit of rever- 
ence seems to hover over the traveler which is felt nowhere 
else within the Holy City. 




182 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 




THE NEW JERUSALEM FROM GORDON'S CALVARY' 
The 'Garden Tomb' lies beyond and below the wall. 

The sepulcher was, at one time, closed by a stone, run- 
ning into a groove. A portion of a stone door is still shown 
to visitors. 

Through a doorway such as this the disciples, Peter and 
John, by stooping down could have looked into the sepulcher 
and seen the linen clothes lie, perhaps upon the floor of the 
little ante-chamber. 

Who can tell whether or not this is the sacred spot ? 
But, if the true Calvary was just without the wall on the 
borders of the Mohammedan cemetery, — as think Otto 
Thenius, Gen. Gordon, Col. Condor, Doctor Merrill, Rider 
Haggard, and many others, — the tomb cannot have been 
far away. 

There must have been such a garden as we see to-day ; 
certainly just such a tomb. To such a secluded spot must 
the lifeless body of the Saviour been reverently borne by His 
few faithful followers. 

On that first Easter morning, through such a garden, 
dim and dewy, must the two Marys have crept in terror of 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



183 



the Jews or perhaps the Roman guard, coming to the mouth 
of the sepulcher just as the rising sun shot its golden rays 
over the summit of Olivet. 




THE TOMB IN THE GARDEN. 



Here the risen Lord may have spoken the words of com- 
fort to the Magdalene, and that affecting message of love : 
"Go tell my disciples, — and Peter." 

Thoughts like these surge through one's mind, and again 
he lives over the awe-inspiring events of the resurrection 
morn ! 

In the rocky cliff above and around the entrance to the 
tomb there seem to be evidences that at some very remote 
time an arched building was erected over the spot, enclosing 
the sepulcher. Two cisterns, in good repair, still exist near- 
by, and there have been found the remains of extensive 
masonry foundations within the present limits of the gar- 
den. Some suppose that a church was erected here in 
Crusading times. 



184 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



The late Mr. Haskett Smith attached great importance 
to certain inscriptions which were brought to light during 
the years 1885-6, in tombs discovered in the French Do- 
minican enclosure immediately adjoining the Garden Tomb. 
These inscriptions are preserved in the French Museum 
which adjoins the modern church of St. Stephen. One of 
these, translated, reads as follows : 

u To Nonus and Onesimus, deacons of the Church of the 
Witness of the Resurrection of Christ". 

A second inscription bears in Greek the words : 

"Buried near his Lord". 

The first inscription clearly suggests that in early 




THE PLACE WHERE THEY LAID HIM ? 

Christian days a church was erected in this vicinity to be a 
perpetual witness or memorial of the resurrection of Christ. 
The second inscription is somewhat ambiguous, and might 
refer either to the burial of some follower of St. Stephen or 
our Lord, or merely to the resting place of some Christian 
slave or servant who was "buried near his Lord". 

Without laying too much stress on the significance of 
these inscriptions, they seem to furnish an additional link 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



185 




in the remarkable chain of coincidences which invest this 
locality with extraordinary interest. 

All the evidence seems to indicate that the spot was held 
sacred in early days, and that several buildings have at vari- 
ous times been here erected. Altogether the tomb is excep- 
tional. Its comparative isolation, its extraordinary fitness 
for a private 
family tomb 
in a garden, 
its exact con- 
formity with 
the scriptural 
narrative, are 
the three 
points which 
m ost arrest 
attention. No 
other tomb 

haS yet been VieW fr ° m Calvary Hil1 • showin 8 rear ot New German Hospital 

discovered which meets these conditions. Yet we cannot 
justly dismiss the traditions with which the ages have in- 
vested the Holy Sepulcher Church. It is certain that the 
early 'fathers' would have no reason to create a false im- 
pression or revere a mistaken spot. Those who lived in the 
fourth century must have had trustworthy tradition, if not 
written record, to establish their selection and veneration. 
The Crusaders were for the most part unlearned, and, as a 
rule, not over critical, — but we must not forget that the 
older Greek and Roman culture compared favorably with 
that of our own age. 

The quiet of the 'Gordon Tomb' is more satisfying than 
the turmoil of the 'Holy Sepulcher', and therefore appeals 
to our imaginations and our finer sensibilities ; yet, pending- 
further light, I prefer to accept the authorized site, believing 
that beneath the gilded chapels and altars and mosaics of 
the great church lie the rocks and the caverns which in our 



186 



ANCIENT JERUSALEM 



Lord's day were open to the sky, and must have then ap- 
peared as do to-day the 'Golgotha' and the charming tomb 
in the garden about which we have speculated. 

Countless tourists visit the Holy Land yearly ; some de- 
vout followers of the lowly Galilean, others scoffers and 
cynics. Some come hither in an attitude of religious en- 
thusiasm and accept without question the traditional sites 
which are here shown as authentic. Others come filled with 
skepticism, and return home feeling sure that their doubts 
are justified. 

Whether or not the sum total of the world's vast knowl- 
edge will be increased by the positive identification of the 
Holy Sepulcher is a matter of conjecture, but the teachings 
of Jesus of Nazareth have so been interwoven with the fabric 
of the world's history and the daily life of its people, that 
His influence is and shall continue to be of supreme and in- 
calculable help and blessing. 




JERUSALEM offers to the visitor a wide variety of 
hotel accommodations. The Hotel Fast, outside the 
walls, is perhaps the most pretentious, although there 
are several other good hotels both within and without the 
city. Jerusalem is divided into 'Quarters', racial and reli- 
gious, and in the Jewish and foreign centers of population 
there are, naturally, accommodations for many strangers. 
The Russian and French religious institutions usually have 
facilities for housing a large number of tourists, provided 
the applicants are provided with satisfactory credentials, 
while the numerous 'pensions' or semi-private lodging 
houses, most of them in the new city, offer many advantages 
where a prolonged stay is contemplated. 

The foreigners in Jerusalem 'flock together;' the Ameri- 
can 'birds of a feather' are partial to the locality North of 
the city. Likewise, the German, Russian and English resi- 
dents are drawn to each other by a community spirit which 
is very strong; therefore we have come to refer to the vari- 



188 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



ous foreign centers of population as 'colonies'. 

Our own sojourn in Jerusalem was made enjoyable at 
a comfortable and home-like English establishment a half 
mile from the Jaffa Gate, opposite the Rothschild Girls' 
School. Around our board at dinner were gathered a most 
interesting company. During the period of my visit to Jeru- 
salem, an interdenominational conference was being held by 
the Medical Missionaries from all parts of Asia Minor. Two 
of the doctors were staying with us ; Dr. Atkinson of Khar- 
put and Dr. Scott of Damascus. From their little after- 
dinner anecdotes it seems evident that the lot of a mission- 
ary, even in a land of comparative civilization, is no sine- 
cure. Dr. Atkinson told of the difficulties which were en- 
countered on every hand; of the hostility and often the 
treachery of the natives and servants, of the roads — well- 
nigh impassable during the heavy snows of winter, and the 
squalor and sickness which blight the lives of the wretched 
villagers of the interior. I have become firmly convinced 
that every dollar spent by our churches and philanthrophists 
in support of Medical Missions is well invested. Much ef- 
fort is expended where often the spiritual results are dis- 
appointing; nevertheless the social service to mankind is of 
inestimable benefit. A preacher may make but few con- 
verts by expounding his little understood doctrines in a God- 
less community, but the common sense lessons of cleanli- 
ness, sanitation and healing are of themselves worth all the 
effort put forth. If, beside all this, our missionaries can by 
an example of upright living lead their charges to an accep- 
tance of the truth as we see it, so much the better. But let 
us not think that we, of all men, have a monopoly of God's 
good things. 

Ofttimes we mortals attempt to bring down the Su- 
preme Being to our own low level. We try to make of the 
Creator a revengeful despot, who has revealed to us all the 
truth, and sometimes we picture a God who seeks the 
slightest pretext for shutting the door of Heaven in the 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 189 



faces of those who do not see as we do. "Shall not the God 
of all the Earth do right ?" He who puts into our hearts 
whatever good impulses we possess, who clothes the world 
with a mantle of beauty, and gives us all the in-born assur- 
ance of a future existence : He cannot be measured by our 




IN THE 'NEW CITY'. 



finite standards, and we err grievously if we deny to our fel- 
low men, of whatever faith, a place fully as great as our 
own in the heart of the bounteous All Father. 

One of the most erratic of God's creatures was our 'star 
boarder' at the Olivet House, an angular spinster with dis- 
position corroded by the rust of years. She has, it transpires, 
been a resident of Jerusalem for a long time, having left 
England in disgust on account of domestic troubles. Far 
from mellowing, however, under the benign rays of the Ju- 
dean sun, she has hopelessly spoiled and become an unbear- 
able cynic. Few conditions in this world of sin are more 
pitiable than a capable life soured by environment. Miss 

M was a woman of culture, wonderfully familiar with 

Biblical history and the topography of Palestine; and, had 
she been so disposed, she might have been a source of con- 
stant entertainment and assistance to the visitors with whom 
she came in contact. But. on the contrary, the lady under 



190 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 




THE JAFFA ROAD. 

discussion finds her only delight in criticising the cuisine or 
berating the trembling waiters ; — she is on bad terms with 
all the world and naturally at odds with herself. This, in 
my opinion, is a wasted life, — one of those existences which 
may be styled 'a disappointment ending in an old age of 
regret'. 

Our photograph of the Jaffa Road gives a splendid idea 
of the 'New Jerusalem'. In the distance is seen the old Jaffa 
Gate and the new tower of Emperor William, while in the 
foreground the numerous "Photographic' signs give an idea 
of the extent of the business carried on in this line. Jeru- 
salem is certainly well prepared for the visitor as regards 
pictures. You can buy pictures of anything and every- 
thing. Even lantern slides, artistically colored, may be ob- 
tained at the 'Colony Store', with a carefully prepared lec- 
ture to be inflicted upon the admiring ones at home. 

The Jaffa road may be said to be the chief commercial 
street of Jerusalem. Here, beyond the barriers of the con- 
gested and dirty old town are a succession of modern stores, 
with the Ottoman and the German banks, as well as the 
foreign Post Offices. 

The Germans, French, Italians and Austrians maintain 
these postal stations here, — the 'Offices in the Levant' 



ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 191 



w hich used to mystify us in our boyhood days of stamp col- 
lecting. Little did we then think that we should one day 
affix these same European stamps, 'Surcharged with Turkish 
values' upon letters addressed to our own folks in the 
Western World. 

These foreign offices are a great convenience to the 
European residents of Jerusalem, and the respective agents 
naturally give particular care to the transmission and safety 
of the mails. 

Most visitors to Jerusalem make it a point to encircle 
the belt of fortifications which surround the old city, and 
naturally begin at that now familiar landmark, the Jaffa 
Gate. We have already observed the Citadel from the Beth- 
lehem road, and shall now proceed, in a short walk of per- 
haps an hour, to note the 'lay out' of the present city and 
its relation to the surrounding country. 

A poorly conditioned highway re-ascends from the 
Bethlehem road and enables us to arrive at the foot of the 
wall once more. We endeavor to hug the ramparts as closely 
as possible, although we are compelled ^ 
to make an occasional detour to get 
around the buildings which cling ten- 
aciously to the walls 
like barnacles upon 
the bottom of 
a ship. 

Within the 
walls, a con- 
siderable allot- 
ment between 
the Citadel 
and the most 
Southerly cor- 
ner is occupied 
by the build- 




ings of the Ar- 



THE TOWERS 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 



192 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



menians, with their Monastery and its extensive gardens; 
while just outside the walls are the cemeteries of the Armen- 
ian, Greek and Latin communities. This portion of the 
Southern hill, where once stood the City of Zion, — accord- 
ing to many authorities, — is deserted now save for these 
cemeteries and a few groups of old buildings, huddled to- 
gether. One of these, usually pointed out to the visitor, is 
the traditional Tomb of David.' More properly speaking, 
several buildings are here rolled into one. In one of the sub- 
terranean chambers re- 
pose the remains of 
the greatest of the He- 
brew sovereigns. This 
at least is the note- 
worthy claim; but no 
one has ever been able 
to verify it, or been 
given a chance to re- 
fute the falsehood. Na- 
turally, visitors are re- 
fused admission. Up- 
on the first floor of the conglomerate structure is the so- 
called "Coenaculum', or Chamber of the Last Supper. This 
room appears to be part of an old church, but certainly not 
a building two thousand years old. But they always have a 
ready way of getting around impossibilities : — m this in- 
stance we are told that the site is authentic, but that it was 
in a chamber below that in which we now stand, — inacces- 
sible of course, — that the Lord's Supper was really and 

truly observed. 

This 'cat-in-a-bag' business is truly disgusting. One 
would rather look upon a genuine imposition and know that 
he was being hoaxed, than to have his curiousity excited 
and then find an impassable barrier blocking further pro- 
gress. , 

I do not place much confidence in the 'Coenaculum, 




'TOMB OF DAVID'. 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 193 



but it is not improbable that David and many other notable 
men of his time were interred hereabouts, for this portion of 
Mount Zion was almost surely enclosed by the walls of Da- 
vid and Solomon, traces of which have been found a few 
yards to the West. Remains of some old cisterns have also 
been discovered in the immediate vicinity. This section of 
old Jerusalem was, most likely, the Upper Town, in con- 
trast to the Lower Town situated beyond the now scarcely 
discernible Tyropceon Valley. 

In this latter or Eastern portion of Jerusalem, facing 
the Mount of Olives, stood the Temple, which site we have 
already visit- 
ed. If, as is 
sometimes as^ 
s e r t e d, the 
palaces of the 
Jewish m o n- 
archs were sit- 
uated in the 
Upper town, 
their tombs 
may be looked 
for in that lo- 
cality. Sup- 
posing on the 
other hand, 
that the royal 
residences ad- 
joined the 
Temple, this 
would be less 
likely. At any 
rate, the 

Tombs of the iIN REMEMBRANC e of me' 

Kings have 

never been positively located. 




The ancient limits of the 



194 ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



city have been denned by many authorities in as many dif- 
ferent ways, and the exact boundaries of Jerusalem in Jew- 
ish or Herodian days will always be a matter of dispute. 

But the circuit of the walls, as we see them to-day, af- 
fords a fairly satisfactory conception of things as they used 
to be, despite the fact that the present Moslem city is far 
smaller than the Jerusalem of the past. 

The Zion Gate, or 'Gate of David', affording means of in- 
gress here, shows no traces of ancient splendor. It is merely 
a massive portal spanned by a pointed arch with battle- 
ments above. 

The walls soon turn off again toward the East until we 
arrive at the 'Dung Date', a low and forbidding doorway re- 
minding one of the proverbial 'needle's eye'. Within this 
gate lies the meanest portion of 
the city, the quarter inhabited 
by the Jews and the slovenly 
Moghrebins from Northern Af- 
rica, Without, as may be 
implied from the name of 
the gate, is one of the rub- 
bish heaps of the city. 
But the appellation 
'Dung Gate' is very old, 
and it seems that this side 
of the city has always 
been more or less ab- 
horred. Some claim that 
the scriptural 'Gehenna' 
or place of burning, inter- 
preted by Biblical stud- 
ents as being symbolic of 
eternal desolation, referred to a smouldering heap of refuse 
further down the valley of Hinnom or in the lower Kedron. 

But it will not be amiss at this time to enter the city 
through this disreputable entrance, and visit one of the 




THE GATE OF ZION 



ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 195 



places of greatest 'heart interest' in Jerusalem, — the world 
famous Wailing Place of the Jews. 

A short walk to the Northward — then a turn to the 
right — brings the visitor to the object of his search. I had 
deemed a guide unnecessary, but enroute thither I was ac- 
costed by a most respectable old gentleman, rather thread- 
bare at the elbows and knees, but exceedingly courteous. He 
knew without any inquiry from me the object of my interest 
in this part of the city, and, signifying that I was to follow 
him, he led the 
way to a narrow 
street running a- 
longside a lofty 
wall. At once I 
recognized the 
spot, as does ev- 
ery traveler, — 
these massive 
stones were a 
part of he well 
known West 
wall of Herod's 
Temple; the 
much frequented 
place of Hebrew 
lamentation. 

I found per- 
haps a score of 
people here; — 
not a loudly wailing mob, but a perfectly orderly group, 
gathered as is their custom to pray and to bemoan the de- 
parted glory of Israel. Leaning sadly against the huge 
blocks of drafted granite, or sitting thoughtfully in silent 
contemplation, were a remnant of the children of Abraham. 
Aged men and women were there, — others of younger 
years; mothers with infants in arms, farmers from the sur- 




196 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



rounding villages, a few Polish colonists and Spanish Jews, 
— all drawn hither by a reverence of the highest type and a 
desire to pray beneath the shadow of the Temple. And 




THE COURT OF SOLOMON. 



indeed the towering wall possesses a grandeur and pathos 
more appealing than that of any other synagogue in the 
world. 

Upon the wall were scribblings in Semitic characters, 
stained by many a tear and kissed by countless loving lips. 
Some of the stones comprising the wall are over ten feet in 
length, — the majority, I should judge, being about five feet 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 197 



in height. Some have succumbed to the tooth of time and 
are fast disintegrating; others, with close fitting joints, ap- 
pear as firmly set and solid as though it were but yesterday 
that the trowel of the mason had left them with approving 
touch. The word trowel sounds well, but upon closer exam- 
ination, I am inclined to think that no mortar was used in 
this construction, — the perfection of the fitting and the 
ponderous weight of the blocks being deemed sufficient and 
adequate. 

For the convenience of visitors and pilgrims, a few pur- 
veyors of eatables always frequent this spot, for even prayers 
coupled with an empty stomach are less comforting than 
supplications augmented with a 'wee bit of cheer.' Old 
soap-boxes, with a bottle and a dish or two, provide table- 
de-hote service for those who will partake. 

On Friday afternoons about four o'clock a large number 
of Hebrews congregate here, at which time there is greater 
confusion and there are scenes of more vehement grief. 

At any time, however, the place is profoundly impres- 
sive. The liberal minded visitor cannot but pity and at the 
same time respect the Jewish people. For well nigh twenty 
centuries they have been the butt of the world's tyrants, — 
persecuted, taxed, and exiled: — for the sufferings of all 
these years we pity them. We respect them for what they 
have been and for what they are. 

Standing here alone and almost unnoticed, my thoughts 
went back to the days of Solomon's glory; when Sheba's 
queen might well say in wonder that the half of the splen- 
dors of his court had not been told. Although never a first 
rate world power, comparable to Egypt or Babylon, — the 
Jewish kingdom was at that time a model in many respects, 
maintaining its prestige and dignity at a period in history 
when such things were most difficult to maintain. In our 
marginal notes we have sketched the kaleidoscopic cycle of 
Jewish history, and we know only too well the chain of 
events leading up to the fall of the Holy Citiy. We admire 



198 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



both its heroic defenders and the wonderfully organized 
Romans who encompassed its destruction. Never, since the 
legions of Titus marched away, has Jerusalem recovered 
from the blow; but the Jewish people have never been ut- 
terly crushed. To-day they exert an influence in the chan- 
cellaries and financial centers of the world far greater than 
they ever could have wielded as a small and isolated na- 
tion. 

What of victorious Rome ? Only a few months before 
I had stood amid the ruins of the Forum, and trodden 
the broken and weed-grown marble pavement, where golden 
rod and clover were springing up between the cracks, and lit- 
tle brown lizards darted hither and thither in the sun. Surely 
there was a fall greater than that of Jerusalem. And now 
ancient Rome is remembered only as a maker of history and 
of great men, and through her legacy of literature to the 
world. 

But to revert to the old gentleman who had brought me 
to the spot. I discovered that he spoke a 
little German; it was likewise evident that 
■Hi * ' " he was himself a Jew, — yet he stood si- 
lently by while I cogitated and did my lit- 
tle picture-taking stunt. With that fine 
Hr • s?nse of the eternal fitness of things so 

v * rarely met with 

i n the East he 
attempted n o 
long disserta- 
. tion and volun- 
teered no ex- 
planations; — ■ 
he knew and / 
knew that the 
place was 
sacred, and we 

THE DUNG GATE. b O t h Ullder- 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 199 



stood. And never have I seen a gratuity accepted with so 
much dignity, — merely a grave bow and a gentle word of 
thanks. I wondered who and what he was. 

But other eyes had witnessed the transaction, and in a 
twinkling I became the center of a clamorous throng. I 
can't tell where they all sprang from, 




of gold pieces which I might scatter 

broadcast in Tairy Prince' fashion, but about a dollar and 
thirty cents was the extent of my loose change. I made 
that go as far as it would, — then, seeing with alarm the 
ever-inceasing throng, I sought an avenue of escape. 
Luckily I was able to dodge beneath the outstretched arm of 
a buxom Amazon, and pushing aside a yelling urchin, I fled, 
pursued by the hosts of the needy, in much the same fashion 
as the unfortunate Bishop of Bingen and the avenging 
rodents. Such is life in Jerusalem. 



200 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



Once more without the city, to take up the interrupted 
walk about the walls. 

Reference has been made to the Valley of Hmnom. 
This depression, some distance to the South of modern Je- 
rusalem, is a semi-circular 'Wadi' leading around from the 
Bethlehem road to the Pool of Siloam. We are tolerably 
sure that it once formed the boundary of the greater city. 
Rather a dusty and rocky path it is to-day, a few olive trees 
doing their best to cheer the foot-sore traveler, while the 
slope on the side of the city boasts of a few desolate-looking 
farms, each making a pathetic plea for water and fertiliza- 
tion from the hands of the slothful husbandmen who are 
trying to wrest a crop from the barren dust. Upon the op- 
posite terraces forsaken rock tombs seem to be the only 
harvest; indeed the 'Aceldama" or Field of Blood, purchased 
with the rejected 
silver of Judas 
has been placed 
here by some tra- 
ditions. The hill 
itself has a title 
just about as at- 
tractive, for the 
Crusaders called 
it the Mount of 
Evil Counsel, and 
asserted that 
here, in the man- 
sion of Caiaphas, 
the killing of Jes- 
us was planned. 

So, all things 
considered, the 




THE LOWER POOL OF SILOAM. 



Valley of Hinnom is not exactly the place which one would 
chose for a midnight promenade, haunted as it is by sinister 
memories. At mid-day, however, the dead are comfortable 



HOUND ABOVT JERUSALEM 201 




THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 



enough in their graves, I guess, so we turn our thoughts to 
more cheerful matters. 

At right angles with the Valley of Hinnom is the Valley 
of the Kedron, now dry, — separating the city of Jerusalem 
fiom the Mount of Olives. To the sun-baked traveler, wend- 
ing his way down the Hinnom pathway to the historic Pool 
of Siloam, the miserable village on the foothills of Olivet 
looks anything but inviting. This is the modern town of 
Siloam, and the inhabitants are a decidedly dirty and ig- 
norant lot. But even their grey and dingy village boasts of 
a manufacturing enterprise. A long, blue, shed-like build- 
ing houses the wine bottling establishment where the vint- 
ners of the community prepare their exhilarating beverages 
for the market, and is the most prominent object in the 
hamlet; the first to catch the eye of the approaching 
stranger. 

Near the junction of the two valleys is the famous pool 
of which we are in search, more familiar to the world than 
any of the other pools of Jerusalem. At present it seems 
too far removed from the city to have ever been a part of 



202 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



it, but from all accounts we are forced to believe that it 
once lay within the scope of the walls, and was one of the 
most highly prized reservoirs of the city, rivaling the pools 
in the upper town. The reservoir which was formerly re- 
garded as the Tool of Bethesda', just North of the Temple 
Area, is now choked with rubbish, while in Summer most of 
the other pools are dry, or at best contain only a little stag- 
nant water. The Pool of Siloam, on the contrary, always 
supplies good water, even in the dryest of weather, being fed 
by natural springs. 

It was Hezekiah who was largely instrumental in pro- 
viding Jerusalem with an abundant water supply. By 
means of a complicated system of subterranean conduits all 
the natural wells of the city were utilized, and water was 
carried into the city from the outlying hills. Some of these 
old acqueducts exist to-day in a ruinous condition, while 
others are still performing their worthy work after a faith- 
ful service of well nigh three thousand years. A notable ex- 
ample is the tunnel, said to have been quarried by Solomon, 
which conveys a copious stream of water into the city from 
the region beyond Bethlehem. 

There is a 'great pool' at Siloam and also a lower or 
deeper reservoir, which latter is the object of greatest in- 
terest. A flight of ancient steps lead down to the surface of 
the water, and here one will usually meet some of the vil- 
lagers, — the girls not entirely devoid of beauty, but the 
men and boys looking more than ordinarily thievish, which 
does not belie their reputation. 

It seems that a subterranean passage, but partially ex- 
plored, connects this Siloam cistern with the 'Fountain of 
the Virgin' a little further up the Kedron Valley, while still 
other little known channels run up to and beneath the city, 
portions of which are blocked by fallen masony and rock. 
A year or two ago a college professor from The States' with 
half a dozen of his adventurous American boys attempted 
to do some exploring on their own account, and came here at 



ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 203 



night, provided with lanterns and tools prepared for work. 
While busily engaged within the gallery they became aware 
of a commotion without, and turned to find half the villag- 
ers of Siloam assembled at the pool, armed with sticks and 
stones and 
roused to a 
dangerous 
pitch of in- 
dignation at 
the impud- 
ence of the 
curious 




strangers. Like Captain Par- 
ker and his assistants in the 
episode of the Temple dese- 
cration, our doughty peda- 
gogue was compelled to mar- 
shal his hosts into some sort of a 
'Macedonian phalanx' and push 
his way to safety, hooted and pelted 
by the natives. 
Remains of masonry, discovered nearby, give proof that 
at one time the pool and its surroundings were exceedingly 
attractive. As is the usual case with scriptural land marks,' 
it is very difficult to reconcile present dreariness with Roman 
splendor. In Christ's time the Pool of Siloam was most like- 
ly kept in the first class condition which always character- 
ized the public works of the Romans, and the marble lined 
pool to which the blind man was sent was, I suppose, as 



204 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



much frequented as the 'Fontana di Trevi,' in Rome to-day. 
Therefore, the miracle of restored sight must naturally have 
attracted instant and wide attention. 

The walk up the Kedron Valley is always interesting, 
because we encounter several familiar ruins. Cut into the 
rocky slopes of the Mount of Olives, witih their decorated 
faces turned toward Jerusalem, are several tombs about 
which there has always been a deal of speculation. Guide 
books and authorities in general are satisfied to label them 
as the Tombs of St. James and Zacariah'. The former re- 
minds one more than anything else of the rock-cut caverns 
of the Theban necropolis across the Nile from Luxor. Be- 
hind the Doric columns and vestibule a series of chambers 
have been hollowed in the mountain, in which are a varied 
collection of empty tombs. One tradition relates that here 
the apostle James concealed himself during the days of 
Christ's trial and execution. As to the facts, we know ab- 
solutely nothing. We have no clue as to the identify of the 
dead who once were laid away here in presumed security, or 
the time or circumstances of their spoliation. This much 
we may ponder upon : — it is all but certain that the eyes 
of the Christ have rested upon the ornamented frieze above 
our heads, as day after day he crossed the Kedron; while 
the pale face of the unspeaking stone has been reddened by 
the names of the burning Temple and the sunsets of two 
thousand years, — and these very walls have echoed with 
the 'Hosannas' of the multitude and the imprecations of be- 
sieging hosts. 

Upon the same level, and reached by a path along the 
face of the cliff, is the pyramid-like mausoleuum, about thir- 
ty feet in height, cut from the rock itself, which may be the 
monument of the Zacharias of the New Testament or the 
Zechariah of the Old, or may have an unfamiliar history 
and significance, entirely at variance with the accepted le- 
gends. 

Near this spot there is a bridge over the Kedron, which 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 205 



would seem to indicate that at times such a structure was 
necessary. Beneath the bridge lay the whitening skeleton 
of a horse, a memorial of an existence of unrequited toil 
We have no means of knowing whether he was a sorrel or a 
roan, or whether he did his work faithfully or whether he 
balked and bit. But we know as little about the human 




JERUSALEM FROM THE MOUNT OF OLIVES, 
The domes of the Russian Church in the right foreground. 



creatures who slept in the now vacant tombs above. Were 
they good or bad, worthy or found wanting ? Were they 
more fitted for immortality than the dumb and plodding- 
creatures who bore the burden ? God alone can answer. 

The course of the Kedron might almost be likened to 
the 'Valley of Dry Bones' of the prophet Ezekiel, for on 
either hand the ground is thickly dotted with headstones; 
the Jewish graves on the Olivet side of the valley and the 
Moslem sepulchers on the Jerusalem slope. 

One other famous tomb cannot be overlooked. This is 
literally true, for the singular outlines of the 'Tomb of Absa- 
lom' would immediately attract the eye of the visitor did he 



206 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



not already know of its existence and look for it of his own 
accord. This monument, too, is cut out of the rock, its 
cupola reminding one of an inverted morning-glory or a 
phonograph horn. This structure is without doubt mis- 
named, it certainly is not older than Greco-Roman times. 
A jagged aperture has been knocked into its side, and all 
about are heaped up a vast quantity of small stones, which 
have been cast at the monument by Jew and Moslem alike, 
for both join in detestation of the memory of David's dis- 
obedient son. They rightly discern that ingratitude is the 
world's greatest sin. 

To gratify my curiosity, it seemed necessary to peer 
within the old vault. The interior also was filled with stones 
and I moreover beheld, peacefully sleeping upon this un- 
comfortable bed, a weary, ragged and unkempt 'hobo' of 
Palestine. 

Sleep on, — thou cast off fragment of humanity If 
the dismal memories of reprobate Absalom haunt not thy 
dreams, I, forsooth, will not disturb thy slumbers ! 

We are told that the rock behind this tomb contains 
some interesting crannies, but the entrance is completely 
blocked by recent accessions to the stone pile, — which, as 
the sands of Egypt sweep over the tombs on the edge of the 
desert, are here piled high against the cliff. 

We have, as was our original intention, been making 
a circuit of the walls, but afar off, 'tis true. From the bed 
of the Kedron the walls of Jerusalem seem remarkably high, 
as they tower upon the hill above. 

The East wall of the 'Haram' or Temple enclosure, with 
its sealed 'Golden Gate', forms the boundary of Jerusalem 
above the Kedron Valley. Out from the city through the 
'Gate of Saint Stephen', — a little further to the North, — 
a narrow road winds down and across the valley and up the 
slope of the Mount of Olives. The thought continually re- 
curs to us that this path must often have been traversed by 
Jesus, as he journeyed to and from Bethany. It is not re- 



ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 207 



corded that the Master ever spent a night in the Holy 
City, but we know that in a secluded glade which the scrip- 
tures name Gethsemane, he sought relief from the turmoil 
of the multitudes in seasons of meditation and prayer. 

Around the Garden of Gethsemane hover the most in- 
timate memories of the Christ. Here we experience a sense 
of His companionship. Just as the presence of Scott shall 
ever brighten the sombre library at Abbotsford, or the heroic 




IN THE GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 



spirit of Robert Louis Stevenson linger near his grave on 
Samoa's lonely peak, — so, in greater measure, do we feel 
the nearness of the Lover of Mankind in the spot where He 
himself sought consolation. The Garden of Gethsemane 
shall preserve through all the years the lasting fragrance of 
the world's sweetest Spirit, 

To-day there are two pretty gardens which make an 
appeal for the indulgence of the visitor. We may have some 
doubts as to the authenticity of both sites, although the 
Garden of the Franciscans has centuries of tradition behind 



208 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 




v 



THE GROUP AT THE WELL. 

it, That of the Russians, or Greek Catholics, further up 
the hill, was evidently developed in more or less of a spirit 
of rivalry. 

Through a low doorway in the enclosing wall we are 
ushered into the Latin garden. Here eight ancient olive 
trees shade the carefully tended flower beds. The visitor 
may purchase some of these blooms, — even shrubs and cut- 
tings for his own garden, — beside rosaries made from the 
olive pits yielded by these same trees, whose knotted trunks 
have split and warped with age. 

I have before me a very entertaining little travel book, 
and beneath the picture of one of these aged trees I read: 
Tree beneath which Jesus prayed' ! This absurdity is 
characteristic of the old type of enthusiast, and in line with 
descriptions of the equally famous 'Virgin's tree' at Helio- 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 209 



polis in Egypt, which is supposed to have sheltered the wan- 
derers after their flight from Judea. The olive trees here 
are old — all of them, — and perhaps they spring from still 
older roots, but we must not expect too much of them. Nev- 
ertheless, anything old is worthy of respect ; and beside these 
grizzled trunks our own span of life seems short indeed. 



Would that we all had more of pity in our hearts for our fel- 
low men, for 'pity is akin to love'. 

There is another church near at hand, protecting the 
'Tomb of the Virgin' and several other note-worthy caverns 
identified in one way or another with the Holy Family. The 
present church dates in part from the time of Milicent, 
daughter of the crusading king Baldwin II, and it super- 
seded an older building, said to have been erected here in the 
5th century. 

As to the Russian Gethsemane, the attractions of its 
garden are over-shadowed by the elaborately decorated 
church of St. Mary Magdalene, with its richly gilded domes 
These seven bulbous pinnacles give the unmistakable and 




THE STORK'S TOWER. 



They have wit- 
nessed m a n y 
strange scenes ; 
the strife o f 
jealous factions 
and the weeping 
of many peni- 
tents. So let us 
bow reverently 
here, as we tread 
the garden's sha- 
dy paths, and 
think in loving 
memory of Him 
w h o sorrowed 
for the sins of 
the world. 



210 ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



fantastic touch of Muscovite architecture, and their splen- 
dor is seen afar off by every approaching traveler. This 
church was made possible through the munificence of the 
late Czar Alexander III, and hither many Russian pilgrims 

resort annually. 

Another memorial of European royalty is the modern 
group of buildings known as the 'Empress Augusta Victoria 
Endowment', occupying a commanding position on the 
summit of the Mount of Olives; which I have attempted to 
portray in my pen sketch at the heading of this section. 
The institution is in reality a hospital and a place of refuge 
for the destitute, and was begun shortly after that famous 
visit of the Kaiser to which reference has already been made. 
It was opened in 1910. In the courtyard are bronze statues 
of William II and his consort. 

A small fee entitles the visitor to admission on stated 
days of the week, and another fee opens the way for the 
ascent of the tower of the Church of the Ascension, which is 
incorporated with the buildings of the endowment. A de- 
lightful panoramic view rewards the traveler, a view whose 
scope extends from the hills of Bethlehem to the Dead Sea 
and the Jordan valley. The clearness of the atmosphere is 
so deceptive that the blue waters of the Dead Sea seem 
quite near at hand, although over fifteen miles of rugged 
country intervene, and it is no less than 3900 feet below our 
present standpoint. 

Traveling afoot in Palestine is exceedingly laborious, 
and particularly so during the months of Summer. It is all 
'up hill and down dale', and naturally every wayside tree 
tempts the pedestrian to halt for a moment beneath the wel- 
come shade, while he is loath to pass by any spring, however 
commonplace, without stopping to quench his thirst. On 
the long carriage journeys, however, the traveler will do well 
to carry a bottle of goodly capacity, filled with lime juice 
and carbonated water, which, like our own lemonade or soda, 
is doubly refreshing. 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 211 



Coming down from the brow of Olivet on my way back 
to the city, I paused beside a well at which were gathered 
an interesting family group, replenishing the supply of wa- 
ter in their goat skins before starting on the journey over the 
hills. In our photograph the father is seen holding the fun- 
nel outstretched, while the future head of the house has 
perched himself upon the well-curb at my suggestion. In 
the background, the cheery face of the 'youngest' smiles at 
us with the true cordiality of childhood. 




THE NEW HOSPITAL OF ST. PAUL. 



The 'Stork's Tower' forms the turning point of the Je- 
rusalem wall at the North-east corner, round which winds 
the Olivet road. The present city extends in this direction 
about a quarter of a mile beyond the confines of the Haram ; 
this section being populated mostly by the Moslems. Just 
how far the ancient city had expanded in this direction 
is an unsettled question. In classic days this side of the 
city was recognized as the 'weak spot' in time of siege, for 
here nature had provided no protecting valleys. Although 



212 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



ASM 




INSIDE THE DAMASCUS GATE. 



strengthened by 
the beleaguered 
Jews in desper- 
ate haste, it was 
on this side that 
the hosts of Ti- 
tus made their 
final and suc- 
cessful assaults. 
Upon the outer 
plateau, Mount 
Scopus, the le- 
gions from the 
Tiber were en- 
camped for 
many weeks. 
When at last a 
breach in the 
walls had been effected, they first gained access to the lower- 
town and the Temple, which they held for some days before 
reducing the upper city. 

The road which skirts this wall to-day is much fre- 
quented, and this we follow until we reach the famous Da- 
mascus Gate, where another highway, leading out from the 
city, proceeds to Nabulus, and is the great artery of traffic 
connecting Jerusalem with Northern Palestine and Syria. 

Through the Damascus Gate pass a continual stream of 
motley humanity; grave soldiers and officials, Jewish merch- 
ants or native tradesmen, teamsters with heavily laden 
beasts, beggars and vagabonds, with, of course, the usual 
liberal sprinkling of the halt, the lame and the blind. 

Victor Hugo loved to study Parisian life from the roof 
of an omnibus, while crabbed old Doctor Johnson used to 
stand for hours at his favorite street corner in London, 'siz- 
ing up' the passers-by. Surely the gates of Jerusalem offer 
vantage points of exceptional interest, where a half hour 




ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 213 



spent in quiet contemplation is most educating and pleasing. 
It is an animated 'travelogue', to use a word of Burton 
Holmes' coining. 

Directly opposite the old gate, in pleasing contrast to 
the time-stained walls, the German Catholics of Cologne 
have recently erected a magnificent hospital, — the 'Hospice 
of St. Paul'. It was practically completed at the time of my 
visit, and gave promise of being one of the finest edifices of 
its kind in Palestine. This splendid institution, typical of 
present-day philanthropy and progress, faces, as we have 
said, the frowning walls of other days, — battered with the 
vicissitudes of years. Just so, yesterday and to-day go hand- 
in-hand in Jerusalem; the blighting traces of the past giv- 
ing way to the possibilities of the future. 

If we choose to complete the circuit of the city, we con- 
tinue on to the unimportant 'Bab el-Jedid' or Gate of Her- 
od, sometimes called the 'New Gate'. In this corner of the 
walls are the remains of yet another historic tower, referred 
to as the 'Castle of Goliath'. About it very little is known, 
although some identify it with the 'Psephinus' of Josephus. 
Outlying remains of the ancient Northern walls have been 
brought to light fully a thousand feet beyond the present 
limits of the city. No one can tell positively how the ebb 
and flow of an eventful history has shifted the boundaries 
of the Jewish capital. 

The presence of the beautiful French hospices of Notre 
Dame de France and Saint Louis, both of them wonderfully 
equipped and stately buildings, brightens up this quarter 
wonderfully, and we edge away into the streets of the 'new 
city' without the wall before we remember our itinerary, 
and, coming upon the familiar Jaffa road again, wend our 
way to the point from which we started. 

One of the most profitable methods of sight-seeing, and 
a mode of procedure affording many delightful surprises, is 
to wander aimlessly and at random through unfamiliar 
streets and out-of-the-way corners. There is a peculiar lure 



214 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



about rambling upon 'terra incognita' and delving into mys- 
terious nooks and corners, unaccompanied and alone, with 
the uncertainty of not knowing what is coming next, or even 
where you are going, which is unique and pleasing. To 
nose into a corner where you have never been before and 
which you may never see again, is, in one sense, the concen- 
trated essence of the globe-trotter's joy. 

Jerusalem is full of interesting spots, of which no men- 
tion is made in the guide books, and which the searcher may 




ARCHES AND PERFORATED WALLS. 

ferret out at his leisure. It is not at all difficult to 'get lost' 
in the old city, and then comes the fun of walking deliber- 
ately through the labyrinth in any direction which suits 
your fancy and 'seeing where you will come out'. The 
queerest and most unexpected is always happening. Some- 
times you will run across strangers, who, like yourself, are 
in search of the unusual; - you will exchange a word or 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 215 



two, compare notes, and then resume the quest for the un- 
known. 

Many of the up-hill and narrow streets are picturesque 
in the extreme. The lethargic inhabitants sit upon the door 
steps of their musty old homes or lean over the odd-looking 
perforated parapets of the house-tops, and scrutinize you 
curiously. I was going to add — 'enviously', but on second 
thought I doubt if they are, as a general rule, intelligent 
enough to realize what they are missing by living in stuffy, 
old, 'has-been' Jerusalem. If they think about it at all, it 
is perhaps thus they soliloquize : "well, if these people come 
from foreign lands to see us, we must possess that which is 
worth looking at, — something they do not have," — and 
they settle back in comfortable indolence, living from-hand- 
to-mouth, and happy in the satisfaction of man's primitive 
wants. 

No so, however, with the Jews of European stock. They 
have seen some of the world's possibilities, and they know 
the value of economy and the reward of industry. You will 

hear the buzz of a band-saw and 
smell the honest saw-dust of a 
carpenter shop. A peep within 
will show you some of the colon- 
ists at work, just as hard and 
with as much pains as though 
the craftsmen were in some pro- 
vincial town of Russia or Po- 
land. You will see them trudg- 
ing through the streets laden 
with baskets and bundles, — for 
the Jew is never a 'slacker', and 
the tourist soon becomes con- 
vinced that while the Moslem 
may be content to exist, the col- 
onist means to live, in the broader 
sense of the word, if, by dint of 




ONE OF THE MANY. 



216 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



hard work and by attending to his own business he can ac- 
cumulate a competency. 

But such scenes are most frequently met with in the 
'New City'. The old town is as sleepy as ever, and the ba- 
zars do not approach those of Damascus in interest or in the 
variety of goods displayed. 

Sometimes the pedestrian is accosted by the natives and 
importuned to give alms or to buy odds and ends in some of 
the dingy shops, but this is less frequent in Jerusalem than 
in the country villages. Sometimes a bright-eyed boy or 
girl will hover around your heels or follow you at a more 
discreet distance, — and it is a genuine pleasure to beckon 
them to your side and conjure up a smile by the bestowal of 
a coin or two, or maybe a treat for their little stomachs in 
the shape of an orange or a glass of 'gazoose'. This is the 
way they pronounce it, at least, but it is nothing more or less 
than lime squash'. When fraternizing with these young- 
people we ask ourselves the question, "What would they say 
and think could they be transported to distant America, and, 
dressed up in the style of our little brothers and sisters, be 
whisked through New York's Broadway in a great big auto 
to one of our theaters for a children's matinee ?" Yes, what 
would they think f Some day I'd like to try the experiment. 

It is a long stretch of the imagination from Jerusalem 
to Coney Island, but one person at least knew of its exis- 
tence. The Armenian who accompanied me on my second 
visit to the Holy Sepulcher Church and who stands upon 
the roof of the building as depicted on page 176, was very 
curious to know whether I was acquainted with a certain 
young lady who had left with him a highly cherished auto- 
graph and address, — the latter being 'Steeplechase Park'. 
It seems she had promised to send him some kind of a sou- 
venir upon her return to America, but, after the lapse of a 
year, it had failed to materialize. 

Passing again beneath the 'Ecce Homo Arch', I was 
prompted to enter the Convent School of the Sisters of Zion 



'ROUND 



ABOUT JERUSALEM 



217 



adjoining, to see 
the remaining 
half of the arch 
which runs 
through into the 
interior of the 
building, and 
forms part o f 
the choir of the 
Convent Chapel. 
We were re- 
ceived at the 
door by a sweet- 
faced sister, 
rather advanced 
in years, and 
possessing the 
truly 'motherly' 
ways which 
come through 
long and con- 
stant association 
with children, 
especially when 
the charge is a 
labor of love. She reminded me of a pale but lovely exotic 
flower, strangely out of place within the old grey walls; 

just such a friend to whom any child — or even a man 

might confide his troubles with the assurance of a ready 
sympathy. 

We were conducted to the chapel and there saw the old 
arch piercing the wall, beside many other ancient fragments, 
with slabs of the old Roman pavement and extensive mason- 
ry foundations about which one might weave many strange 
suppositions. For instance, we see, rudely cut upon one of 
the marble paving-stones, the outlines of an improvised 




A NATIVE GROCERY STORE. 



218 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 



game board. Who knows but what this may really have 
been a portion of some Roman guard house ? Perhaps upon 
this very stone the mercenaries from the Danube or the 
Seine have sat and thrown the dice, or whiled away the 
tedious hours of garrison duty with a soldier's yarns or the 
rough songs of the homeland ! 

Before leaving the building, we were shown some very 
creditable examples of the needle-work of the children, and 
we brought away with us some little sachet bags of laven- 
der. The proceeds from the sale of these little trinkets go 
toward the maintenance of the institution. But as the door 
was gently closed behind us, I knew that I was carrying 
away a memory sweeter than that of the fragrant seeds 
within my pocket, — a memory of a woman's life, thorough- 
ly godly and consecrated, with which even a brief contact 
had been a benison. 

An experience, quite different but equally as helpful, 
was afforded by my attendance at a Sunday morning service 
in the American Mission Church, accompanied by Dr. Alex- 
ander. The chapel is a neat little edifice of stone, with a 
home-like interior, yet it was but sparsely filled by a typical 
'Sunday morning congregation'. It seems that the hard- 
working ministers must rest during the Summer, even m 
Palestine. In this case the regular pastor was off on a vaca- 
tion to the hills of Syria, and a substitute, a visiting Ameri- 
can bishop, occupied the pulpit. He, like ourselves, seemed 
to be impressed with the fact that he was participating in a 
service in the Land of Christ. He gave us a sensible little 
sermonette on the love of the Father — the same old ortho- 
dox gospel we had heard from childhood, — but it seemed 
strange indeed to listen to his comments upon the 'work 
which Jesus did in this very city'. 

The congregation rose and the organ began the soft 
intonation of the familiar strains of Tell me the old, old 
story', — and in that same instant seven thousand miles 
of land and sea were bridged, and I saw with the eyes of 



'HOUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 219 



faith l my two', sitting in the last pew of the church at home, 
— 'worshiping the Lord in the beauty of holiness — on 
the Lord's Day' ! 

How the strains of familiar music and kindred speech 
draw the remote corners of the earth together ! As I sat in 
the little Jerusalem chapel I realized the universality of our 
religion, and appreciated more than ever the argument of 
the Roman Catholic Church in favor of the Latin liturgy. 




A GATEWAY OF OLD JERUSALEM. 

which binds their congregations, whether in the heart of 
Europe or the mountains of South America, into one united 
body of worshipers. 

At the service I noticed a number of the neat blue- 
bonneted and gowned children of the mission, and was told 
that Sunday School was to be held in the afternoon, with 
that added plea, — so universal among our hard-working 
superintendents, — - "we need teachers, won't you come 
around and lend a hand ?" 



220 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 




THE 'MONTIFIORE' JEWISH COLONY 



As far as amusement goes, Jerusalem is dead. I do not 
wonder that the itinerant 'story tellers' of the East appealed 
so strongly to the masses, for, outside of smoking, music — 
such as it is, — and the usual social amenities, the hours 
'after work' must hang heavily upon their hands. 

Quite naturally, therefore, the new 'Movie Show' out 
on the Jaffa road, is a Mecca for those of the inhabitants 
who are progressive in their tastes, and a 'God send' for the 
traveler who desires to relax for an evening, and put himself 
again in touch with the outside world. 

One night I wended my way thither in company with 
one of the guests at the Olivet House. The experience, 
while neither historic or classic, is still an event of my stay 
in Jerusalem. 

The 'cinematograph' performances are given in a two 
story, shed-like building, the front of which is decorated 
with posters, reminding one very much of some farmer's 
'Grange' or a town hall in a county village. Occasionally a 
concert of some sort varies the picture exhibitions, but, as 
this is the only attraction of its kind, they have a complete 
monopoly of patronage. 



'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 221 



It was nine o'clock when we arrived, but things had 
not yet started. In the upper room to which we climbed 
we found about twenty people assembled, and the manage- 
ment were evidently waiting for an audience. The bare 
walls were adorned with display posters, — advertising 
everything from some American productions of the 'Bison' 
type to the world known films of 'Pathe'. Like a Salvation 
Army meeting hall, the place was filled with plain chairs, 
but the 'Class lines' were sharply drawn. The 'First Class' 
chairs occupied a raised platform at the rear of the house, 
railed off in conspicuous grandeur. The Third class places 
were those nearest the curtain, while the middle ground was 
considered to be the 'Second' choice. Prices varied accord- 
ingly. For first class reservations we paid about twenty- 
eight cents, and, if I recall correctly ; the third class fee was 
about ten cents. A private lighting system provided the 
necessary illumination, for there is no 'Public Service Cor- 
poration' in Jerusalem, — as yet. 

It was ten o'clock before the proprietor decided to be- 
gin operations. First he went about collecting the admission 
fees, for no tickets had been sold at the door. This process 
was a show in itself. There were arguments about the price, 
disagreements about change, and bargaining of all sorts. 
One trembling Hebrew got up and went out into the night, 
full of wrath, because he was unable to secure a special rate. 

As to the character of the audience, — it was the 
strangest mixture I have ever seen; representing all the 
types dwelling in the Holy City. Among our companions in 
the 'dress circle' were two handsome young German military 
officers in full uniform, together with a dignified Turkish 
official and several Syrian merchants. 

Primarily it was an audience of men, with but one or 
two women present. 

At last things got into motion. The house was dark- 
ened, the expectant audience settled back in their seats and 
a squeaky phonograph began to grind out the 'Merry Widow 



222 



'ROUND 



ABOUT 



JERUSALEM 



Few men of our day have b:en 
more highly lauded or more harshly 
criticised than COUNT LYEFP NI 
KOLAIEVICH TOLSTOI. 

He has been to spiritual and 
moral Russia what Peter the Great 
was to temporal Russia. 

Born of noble parents on the 
ancestral estates in Tula, Sept. 9th, 
1828, he was, throughout his long 
and eventful life every inch a noble 
man. Seeking relief, however, from 
the burdens of property and freedom 
from social activities by associa- 
tion with the peasantry and manual 
labor in the fields, he became the 
great apostle of the poor, and — - 
the minister to the humble folk ot 
his land, as well as a most eminent 
contributor to the philosophic teach- 
ings of the world. 

He was educated partly at horns 
and partly at the Kazan University. 
He served in the army from 1851 
until the close of the Crimean war, 
during which time he established 
his literary fame by the production 
of 'The Cossacks' and 'Childhood 
and Youth', to which was added, in 
1860, 'War and Peace'. While his 
reputation would undoubtedly have 
been secure as a novelist, and such 
of his lighter works as 'Anna Kar- 
enina' and 'The Kreutzer Sonata' 
have been widely read, it is by his 
ethical and socialistic productions 
that he has most influenced his gen- 
eration. 

His simple and forceful style 
found expression in 'John the Fool' 
and 'The Power of Darkness'. 
Works of this nature, treating with 
the deplorable condition of Russia's 
masses, and filled with socialistic 
propaganda, roused the hostility of 
the government, but so great was 
the popularity of Tolstoi with the 
people that he escaped the fate ot 
manv a less brilliant reformer 
Feared by the authorities, loved 
the peasantry and admired by 
world he worked almost continu- 
ously until his death on the 20th 
of November, 1910. Relig.ously. 
Tolstoi has been a 'Progressive , 
enunciating at various times new 
and startling opinions, and then re- 
versing his judgment and becoming 
astonishingly orthodox. With all 
his searching after truth he has 
been profoundly sincere, and by his 
life and works has given proof of 
a heart full of love for the oppressed, 
in whose cause he labored. 



Waltz' as an overture. And to the accompaniment of this 
same old phonograph the pictures were thrown upon the 
screen continuously until the small hours of the morning. 

To my surprise, all of the films shown were exception- 
ally good, being both instruc- 
tive and entertaining. The 
audience was there for the 
night and they were well re- 
paid. The titles and explan- 
atory notes interspersing the 
pictures were all in French, 
readily understood by the few 
educated Turks and Europe- 
ans in the house. As to the 
plebeian element of the as- 
semblage, they had to let the 
pictures 'speak for themselves', 
but even at that they surely 
were treated to an educational 
and refining exhibition. 

"David Copperfield", by 

Dickens, was presented in 

three or four parts, then a bit 

of Athens, with street scenes, 

religious processions and the 

funeral of a high dignitary of 

the Greek Church. Then 

came a mixture of history and 

comedy, — 'The Marriage of 

Louis XV. What wonderfully 

news worlds must be unfolded 

before the eyes of the youths 

of Jerusalem ! They gaze, open 

mouthed, at these glimpses of 

life which otherwise would 

never be known to them in 



by 
the 



ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM 223 



their own restricted spheres. Here, at least, the 'movies' 
fulfil a function of immeasurable benefit. 

We left the show at 12.30 — still running, after wit- 
nessing yet another striking film, — 'The Funeral of Count 
Tolstoi'. Only a few months before, the world had heard 
of the passing of Russia's 'Grand Old Man'; who, for the 
sake of his oppressed countrymen, had for years renounced 

the luxuries of his birthright, and 
had toiled with them and labored 
for them, that he might lead them 
to higher thinking and living. 

I had been deeply interested in 
Tolstoi, the reformer. Burton 
Holmes, the famous traveler, had 
recently told me of his visit to the 
home of the Count, outside of Mos- 
cow, in company with Senator 
Beveridge ; and, after his first-hand 
comments, it seemed as though I 
had personally known the aged 
philosopher. 

The tones of the old phonograph 
seemed singularly softened as the 
appropriate strains of Chopin's funeral march accompanied 
the picture. Across the desolate and snow-covered fields we 
saw them bear the massive casket to the grave between lines 
of weeping peasants. After the manner of the country folk, 
the aged face of the departed was left uncovered to the last, 
and wore an expression of perfect peace, all unmindful of the 
leaden sky above or the breaking hearts of those for whom 
he had labored. The venerable locks and flowing beard 
were whiter than the snow-laden branches of the drooping 
trees. It was only a picture, — yet no thinking man could 
witness unmoved the closing scene, when the light of day 
was shut out forever and the burden reverently lowered into 
the bosom of 'mother earth' ; the earthly to again become a 




TOLSTOI. 



224 'ROUND ABOUT JERUSALEM. 



part of that insentient nature which the departed had loved 
so well, and the bright mentality gone to attain its fulness 
amid the mysteries of the great unknown. 

We wended our way homeward through the sweet 
scented Summer night; the full-orbed moon silvered the 
roofs of old Jerusalem and the hill of Olivet beyond. Few 
words were spoken, but thoughts kept pace with our echoing 
foot-falls along the deserted streets. I pondered over the 
words of the illustrious departed, as the old, old questions, 
'whence and whither?' thrust themselves upon me. ^ 

"Where Love is, there God is also" said Tolstoi, telling 
his simple story of Martin Avdyeich the shoemaker, who 
sought and found the Christ. Surely he who strove to pene- 
trate the darkness of the Russian night with the bright 
beams of hope, was a lover of his fellow men, yet God was a 
greater Lover. And if 'like begets like' and 'love begets 
fove', surely the spirit of the great teacher has gone to join 
the greater Master, — ' . -for the Father seeketh such to 
worship Him !" 



OWN from Jerusalem, over the Mount of Olives and 
Tpl through the desolate Wilderness of Judea runs the road 
to Jericho and the Jordan. Everyone knows that Jeri- 
cho is a miserable and God-forsaken village, and that the 
journey thither is something of an ordeal, yet few visitors to 
Palestine omit the excursion over the much traveled route. 
Perhaps it is because of the fact that without a glimpse of 
the full-fledged Jordan and the mysterious Dead Sea, into 
which it goes to its annihilation, our journey would be seri- 
ously incomplete. I know of some very worthy people who 
invariably dispose of the last piece of cake on the plate 
rather than leave it without companionship. So it is, I 
think, with the Jericho trip; rather than 'miss something', 
we all arrange to extend our schedule sufficiently to permit 
the detour. 

As may be gathered from the parable of the 'Good Sa- 
maritan', the road down to Jericho was notoriously danger- 
ous in Bible times, being infested with thieves and lawless 
characters. To-day the only precaution taken by the travel- 



226 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



er is to protect him- 
self against the heat 
of the Summer sun 
by making an early 
start, and against 
the imposition of 
the Jericho land- 
lords by arranging 
for his sleeping ac- 
commodations i n 
Jerusalem, and hir- 
ing a conveyance 
for the entire ex- 
cursion. 

Having thus safe- 
guarded ourselves, 
it is with consider- 
able pleasure that 
we set out on our 
way, this time with 
a fairly respectable 
team, but with a 
most unpreposses- 
sing driver. He has 
but one eye, and his 
countenance has 
been sadly marred 
by the loss of its 
mate. But they say 

he is as faithful as poor 'old dog Tray', and that he keeps 
his one eye open for dangers seen and unseen. Unfortun- 
ately, he speaks no English, and if I wish to pause to take 
a picture I must poke him in the back as a signal to halt. 
But it might be worse, after all. 

As we proceed, we encounter some interesting types 
coming toward Jerusalem. Here a bewhiskered old sheik, 




DOWN FROM JERUSALEM. 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



227 



(he may be a traveling peddler, for all we know) — sitting 
astride his spindle-shanked donkey with feet spread out like 
a pair of shears, jogging along in complacant reverie, — his 
swaying body keeping time with the flapping ears of his 
mount. Or a pair of slip-shod Bedouin women, carrying- 
naked infants of a delightful shade of chestnut brown bal- 
anced uncomfortably on their shoulders. Then a heavily 
laden bullock cart filled with brush wood, or a straggling 
flock of goats coming to town for the morning's milking. We 
pass just such an endless 
procession on the road to 
Bethany; — some of the 
folks we encounter step a- 
side respectfully as we pass, 
while others, rather than 
give us half the road, seem 
to prefer being run down, 
yet as we squeeze past, mut- 
ter maledictions upon our 
grandmother's ashes, o r 
make other pleasant re- 
marks of similar character. 

The 'Board of Health' of Jerusalem have recently built 
a new abattoir a mile or so beyond the city, situated in a 
rocky glen behind one of the Southern foot hills of Olivet. 
We pass several little donkeys, staggering under heavy quar- 
ters of freshly slaughtered beef, or with two or three dressed 
sheep tied across their backs. One wonders whether they 
sense the significance of their burdens, or maybe congratu- 
late themselves upon the accident of birth which made them 
creatures of toil instead of 'fatted calves 1 or spring mut- 
ton. 

Bethany, known to the inhabitants as 'el Azariyeh', is a 
straggling little village not a whit differing from its neigh- 
bors. A score of boys, up bright and early, scamper after u c 
with mercenary motives, for they surmise, of course, that we 




228 



JERICHO AND PETRA. 



are after the 'tomb of Lazarus', which most tourists deem 
worthy of a visit. 

There is nothing unusual about the miserable cave 
which is pointed out to the traveler. As both Moslem and 
Christian regard Lazarus as a saint, Bethany has been the 
site of several early churches and monasteries. The famous 
tomb of the brother of Mary and Martha lies a little off the 
road near the mosque. A flight of stairs leads down into an 




BETHANY. 



antechamber, from which two more steps descend to the 
tomb proper. We are apt to think, somewhat irreverently, 
that poor Lazarus must have had a difficult time getting up 
all these stairs into daylight, 'bound hand and foot with 
graveclothes' ! 

Undoubtedly the cavern was a family, tomb, but we 
have not the slightest ground for its identification. The na- 
tives who have lighted the way with candles are hard to 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



229 



satisfy financially, and the visitor forgets all about the mo- 
mentous events which the place ought to commemorate in 
his eagerness to 'get away with a whole skin'. 

Of course, the home of the Bethany sisters is shown; 
the house of Simon the Leper likewise, — and even a stone 
marking the place where Martha met Jesus ! 

The time to think about it all comes after you have 
left, and are rolling along beyond the village. 

The human side of a great man is always profoundly 
interesting, and much more so the personal side of J.esus, as 
revealed by His intimacies with the Bethany home. The 
more spiritual a nature, the more sacred and full of mean- 
ing are the close friendships and associations of that nature, 
struggling to rise above the world ; — to be in it, but not of 
it. We shall never know just how much of comfort Jesus 
derived from His friend- 
ship for Mary and Mar- 
tha and Lazarus. I be- 
lieve that in Mary He 
confided as to no other 
living soul, and I fancy 
she was the only woman 
who really knew Him 
and sympathized with 
Him when even the dis- 
ciples were stupid and 
pessimistic. In all pro- 
bability, Christ's mother 
continued to reside in 
distant Nazareth, and 
for Him the Bethany 
household was almost a 
home, while Mary, occu- 
pying the most treasured 
place in His great heart 

of love, was able to so- v— : the -tomb of 

- . i LAZARUS' 




230 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



lace and comfort the tired 'Son of Man' as only a woman 
knows how. 

It is easy to picture Jesus, summoned by the news of 
Lazarus' fatal illness, approaching the town to be met by 
Mary, informed of His coming, who threw herself without 
restraint into His arms in a passion of tears, realizing that 
He, more than all others, would sympathize with and share 
her grief. Yet I think Jesus, as He wept, was not thinking 
merely of poor Lazarus, but of the sorrow and utter despair 
which death brings into every home, — of the pathos of 
separation ; and that his whole soul went out in compassion 
for all the world of mourners, who must, mid life's vicissi- 
tudes, pass through the same experience, fulfilling the im- 
mutable law of nature which even He was powerless to set 
aside. 

Beyond Bethany we begin to enter the Wilderness of 
Judea, where we shall make a descent of over three thousand 
feet, from Jerusalem, situated among the highlands, to the 
Dead Sea plain, lying away below the level of the Mediter- 
ranean. Never have I seen a prospect more melancholy 
than that presented by the landscape spread out before and 
below us; a succession of brown and treeless hills and val- 
leys, stretching for miles on every hand. Through this 
chaos of nature runs the famous road to Jericho, a highway 
over which our horses tread with a caution born of exper- 
ience, picking their way among the rocks over which once 
rolled the gilded chariots of Herod and Titus ! 

Jesus and the twelve have passed this way ; the digni- 
fied Levite and the complacent Pharisee, the hunted myrmi- 
don and the uncomplaining soldier, the patriot, the prisoner, 
the rich and the poor of the past; — all have gone their way 
and left not even an echo behind. 'Oh, why sho aid the spirit 
of mortal be proud ?' The pertinent question of William 
Knox, so well expressed in the poem which was the favorite 
of President Lincoln, presents itself startlingly as we con- 
template this now forsaken highway of the past. Each line. 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



231 



voicing the too apparent truth, seems to call up some forgot- 
ten face and figure from the defiles of the long ago. 

Old cities, old ruins, old roads, old men and old women, 
— all tell the same story. We are 'but strangers here and 
sojourners, as all our fathers were', and 'we who walk the 
earth are but a handful to the tribes who slumber in its 
bosom ! ' Yes, travel and history, and especially biography, 
are in large measure pathetic. 

But there is the other side. Life is what we make it; 
what we make of life determines character, and upon the 
character thus wrought depends our immortal existence. 
Happy the man who, having shaped his creed and moulded 
his soul in the similitude of his highest ideals, rests secure in 
the divinity of his being, and waits the 'great adventure' as 
Dr. Lyman Abbott terms it, confident and unafraid. 

Even in our day, we should term the Jericho road 'an 
ideal place for a hold-up'. As recounted before, the Bedouins 
go armed, and there must be some reason for the precau- 
tion, although they do not look as though they possessed 
anything worth stealing. 

Presently we descend into the Wadi el-Hod, and in a 
few moments arrive at the only well between this point and 
the Jordan Valley, known for three or four centuries as the 
"Apostles' Spring". Extensive foundations and the ruins of 
an arched building give a hint as to the former importance 
of the locality. It is safe to assume that the apostles did 
have occasion to avail themselves of this fountain, as it lay 
on the beaten path, although to-day the water is not very 
good. 

After two hours of yellow hills and sand and winding 
road, we see before us a wayside khan. Save for this low- 
lying structure and its protecting enclosure the district is 
utterly deserted. According to tradition, — that word I am 
becoming tired of using — this is the site of the inn to which 
the wounded and plundered traveler was conveyed by the 
worthy Samaritan, so they have dubbed the humble stop- 



232 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



ping place The Good Samaritan Inn'. Then comes more 
desolation: everywhere the parched wilderness, — to the 
right and left, before and behind, with its mountain 
heights, brown and bare; — a region forsaken alike by man 
and beast, and I wonder if even God himself has not aban- 
doned it. 

Just beyond the limits of the narrow roadway are rugged 
ravines, the precipitous sides of which abound in rocky fis- 
sures and caverns, and present scen- 
ery of indescribable gran- 
deur despite its 
sterility. Noth- 
ing could be 
more bold or 
pictu resque , 
and at the same 
time frightful 
and forbidding, 
than the wild 
passes of these 
mountains. 
Here David con- 
cealed himself 
INN in a cave while 

an outcast and a fugitive from the unreasoning wrath of 
Saul. Here Jesus withdrew for forty days of testing and 
preparation. Hither also have come hermits and anchor- 
ites and morbidly religious men through all the centuries, 
believing that by lives of denial and isolation they might 
the more acceptably serve their Master. 

While the barren summits boast of not a tree or a bush 
to hide their naked ridges, there will be found an occasional 
valley with a suspicion of verdure. Down in the depths of 
the ravine to our left, where the miserable Wadi Kelt strug- 
gles along, the Greek monastery of Saint George is seen 
clinging to the ruddy cliffs. Here a company of monks drag 




GOOD SAMARITAN 



JERICHO AND PET R A 



233 



out an existence of exile supported by meagre contributions 
and the economical cultivation of their few patches of green 
garden by the edge of the brook. 

Some dispositions appear to thrive amid an atmos- 
phere of lonely inertia such as this, but six months of it 
would finish me, I am confident. Alan is of nature gregari- 




THE MONASTERY OF ST. GEORGE IN THE WADI KELT. 

ous, and to me it seems the height of folly for one who 
would serve the Creator or his fellow men to thus 'hide his 
light under a bushel". In comparison with the self-sacrific- 
ing work of Father Damien for the lepers of Molokai Island, 
or the devotion of the noble Bishop Belsunce to the plague- 
stricken inhabitants of Marseilles, the lazy lives of these 
slip-shod monks seem utterly disgusting. 

Four hours after leaving Jerusalem, a gap in the hills 
before us reveals the far-reaching plains of the Jordan, with 



234 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



the brilliant blue expanse of the Dead Sea sparkling under 
the noonday sun, far to the South. 

My ideas of the Dead Sea, had they been expressed in 
words, would have read after this fashion : 'a puddle of hot 
and dirty salt water, mixed with black and greasy bitumin- 
ous mud, lying in some hideous hollow amid a flat waste'. 
I suppose I ought to have known better, but I didn't. As 
may be imagined, then, my first impressions of the Dead 
Sea were mightily pleasing. Like Galilee, it appears refresh- 
ingly cool, and one can fancy, even from this distance, that 
he feels the breeze which is sweeping over it from the hills 
at its further extremity. 

The wide plain into which we are rapidly descending, 
(for the horses know that Jericho means dinner,) is a mar- 
velous revelation. As far as the eye can trace, there stretches 
from North to South a distant band of green, marking the 
winding course of the Jordan, while the irregular collection 
of house tops which comprise the village of Jericho are set in 
a fertile oasis of gardens and tree-tops a bit nearer. All 
else is a flat expanse of greyish yellow, save the sky-line, - 
a band of purple hills along the horizon ; — the mountains 
of Moab ! 

This then is the Promised Land as Moses saw it ! But 
h e, standing 
upon Pisgah's 
lofty height, 
looked this 
way, as the 
Israelites, hav- 
ing come up 
from Arabia 
and the wil- 
derness of Si- 
nai by the 
route leading 

around the THE plains of the jordan. 




JERICHO AND PETRA 



235 



Dead Sea and Jordan, approached the Land of Canaan from 
the country East of yonder distant range. 

Poor old, heroic Moses ! It seems sad indeed, upon 
first thought, that for a momentary display of human na- 
ture he was debarred from the coveted land, and was per- 
mitted only a glimpse of the fair fields of Canaan toward 
which he had guided his flock. But maybe it was better 




THE APPROACH TO MODERN JERICHO. 



thus. His work was done; he departed when Israel's future 
seemed assured, and laid him down to sleep in peace of 
mind. 'Twould have been better for Napoleon had he died 
at Austerlitz, for Hannibal had he fallen victorious at Lake 
Trasimene, — or Charles I, had he perished, sword in hand, 
at Marston Moor ! 

At the commanding point where the road upon which 
we are traveling begins to drop toward the lower plain, we 
see the remains of strong fortifications, perhaps those of the 
ancient Roman watch towers which stood guard over the 
pass. On every hand there are traces of bridges and acque- 
ducts, and among the foot-hills countless bits of ruin, all at- 



236 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



JERICHO first comes to our at- 
tention in the Old Testament account 
of the exploits of the Israelites, 
being the first city West of the 
Jordan which they occupied in their 
conquest of Canaan. Presumably it 
had been for years a stronghold of 
the 'mighty men of valour' referred 
to in Joshua VI, and its situation 
at the gate of the great pass lead- 
ing up from the Jordan valley > to 
Jerusalem gave it much strategical 
importance. The city destroyed by 
Joshua appears never to have been 
rebuilt on the original site near the 
rugged Mount of Quarantania. 
Throughout the scriptures reference 
is made to Jericho, but it has oc- 
cupied at least four successive loca- 
tions on the Jordan plain. 

The Israelitish town first be- 
longed to the tribe of Benjamin, and 
later to the kingdom of Israel. At 
the time of Ahab it seems to have 
again been fortified and it is men- 
tioned repeatedly in the history of 
Elisha's exploits. Apparently the 
ancient Jericho lay in a region of 
great fertility, its groves of palms 
and gardens of balsam and roses 
being lavishly extolled by the writers 
of antiquity. 

Jericho shared the misfortunes 
which befell Jerusalem at the hands 
of the Babylonian invaders, and its 
defenses were strengthened by 
Bacchides in the Maccabee wars. 

The Roman Jericho lay perhaps a 
mile to the South of the original 
ruins. In Strabo's time two forts, 
Threx and Taurus, stood guard over 
the pass above the town. Antony, 
in his infatuation, gave the rich 
palm groves of Jericho to Cleopatra. 
Herod the Great was partial to Jer- 
icho, where he established a Winter 
residence and erected imposing 
buildings. Here he died after a 
stormy career. Many of the rums 
of his epoch remain to this day. 

At Jericho the pilgrims from the 
East Jordan region and Galilee used 
to assemble on their way to the 
Temple, and the town is several 
times mentioned in the Gospels. 
Christ began his last journey to 
Jerusalem from this point. 



testing to the importance of the Jericho of the past and of 
the great thoroughfare leading thence up to Jerusalem. 

Passing across the plain, we behold many more interest- 
ing ruins. Upon the left are the fragments of the palace of 
Herod and its terraces, brought to light by the excavations 
of the German Oriental Society in 1909. Opposite, on the 
other side of the road, are traces of an ancient pool of large 
extent, belonging to the irrigation system of that period, 
by means of which this district, 
with its tropical climate, was 
transformed into a veritable 
paradise. As the site of the 
Roman Jericho lay near the 
hills, some archaeologists con- 
jecture this tank to be the 
same in which Herod drowned 
Aristobulus. Just before en- 
tering the modern town we 
pass a new acqueduct span- 
ning a little depression, show- 
ing that even to-day 'conser- 
vation' is practised ; at least in 
small measure. 

Jericho to-day is a collec- 
tion of most miserable hovels, 
although the place boasts of 
two fifth class hotels, (fre- 
quented only during the tour- 
ist season,) two or three shops, 
a Turkish post office, and the 
Serai, or seat of the district 
government. 

The Summer is no time to 
visit Jericho, for the low alti- 
tude and the proximity of the 
Salt Sea combine to make a 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



237 



mid-day temperature of 125° 
quite distressing. In Egypt 
this degree of heat would not 
be at all unbearable, for there 
it is always tempered by a 
cooling breeze, but in squalid 
Jericho it is quite enervating. 
The inhabitants of the town 
are a filthy and degenerate lot, 
so the guide book says. We 
can attest to the truth of the 
first part of the charge, but 
outside of being shiftless, they 
seem to be no more depraved than the dwellers in any simi- 
lar village. I ought to mention, though, that most of them 
will steal anything upon which they can lay their hands. 
But lots of people steal who are not degenerates; — bank 
presidents and insurance magnates, sometimes. 

There are said to be three hundred inhabitants in the 
place now, but judging from the extensive progeny, I appre- 
hend that the statistics will shortly need revision. Usually 
several families manage to inhabit each of the tumble-down 
thatched huts, but most of them sleep outside among the 
brambles, I guess, for the 'bungalows' consist of but one 
room, with 'all outdoors' for a sleeping porch. 

Heat, squalor, loneliness; these three words perfectly 
describe a mid-Summer visit to Jericho. Even the 'hotel', 
which for a brief time must answer for our headquarters, is 
deserted. A disheveled looking man and a woman, still more 
distressed and woe-begone, seem to be the sole survivors of 
the executive staff, but what more can one lone visitor ex- 
pect ? Evidently they are not prepared for guests, in as 
much as the bath-tub is filled with litter, — some broken 
crockery and a set of harness ! 

Before luncheon we have time to hire a donkey, — by 
way of variety and a relief from the confinement of the car- 



According to Eusebius, Jericho 
was destroyed at the time of the fall 
of Jerusalem, and a new town 
sprang up, which as early as the 
4th century, was the seat of a 
Christian bishop. The emperor 
Justinian 'restored' a church edifice 
here, and, further, erected a hospice 
for pilgrims. To this 'third Jericho' 
belong the Byzantine remains East 
of 'Tell es Sultan". 

The 'fourth Jericho' on the site of 
the present village, sprang up in the 
time of the Crusaders, who built a 
square-towered castle here, and a 
'Church of the Holy Trinity'. 

Yakut, in the beginning of the 
13th century, speaks of Jericho as 
still producing dates, 'bananas', and 
excellent sugar, but all these have 
disappeared with the gradual decay 
of the place, the present miserable 
village being inhabited almost en- 
tirely by Moslems. 



238 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



riage, — and ride through the gardens to the 'Sultan Spring' , 
the source of Jericho's natural water supply. Do not let the 
word 'garden' deceive you. I do not mean cultivated gar- 
dens. In Jericho everything runs wild. I am amazed at the 
luxuriant vegetation. Palms and poplars mingle with cactus 
and exquisite flowering plants, while fig and olive trees here 
attain perfection. A little care and cultivation might again 
transform Jericho into a spot of matchless beauty. 

No passing villagers meet us as we ride along the tree- 
bordered path; not a 
breath of air stirs the 
branches, the sultri- 
ness of an oven 
seems to have 
stiffled every- 
body and every- 
thing. Even the 
crickets seem too 
w o r n-o u t to 
chirp. And as to 
the natives, not 
even their natur- 
al cupidity is a 
sufficient impetus to induce them to drag one foot after the 
other in an effort to intercept us. The activity of begging 
is too strenuous for them in Summer. 

We are now approaching the site of Old Testament Je- 
richo, near the base of a rugged spur of the mountains, which 
here leaves the Judean chain and juts out into the plain. 
It is Mount Quarantania, famous since crusading days as 
the 'Mount of the Temptation of Jesus'. We pass over this 
assertion without comment, but with greater certainty we 
may believe that here the Israelitish spies concealed them- 
selves after their sensational escape from the heathen city 
of Jericho, aided by Rahab. Upon the hill-sides are many- 
caves, the ruins of a Frankish monastery, and a number o, 




A JERICHO 
HOVEL 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



239 



ancient hermitages, perched high up on the cliffs in almost 
unapproachable aeries, while upon the summit is a Greek 
monastery, now occupied, and there are traces of a mediaeval 
fortress. 

The 'Ain es-Sultan, (Sultan's Spring) is really interest- 
ing. Its copious waters are collected in a nice little mill- 
pond and then tumble over a dam, — the first we have seen 
in these parts, — into a distributing conduit. Power is thus 
supplied to a tiny mill nearby. 

Ancient writers have argued that this was the bitter 
spring whose waters Elisha 'healed' with salt, but by this 
time we know that a spring or a hill or a rock in Palestine 
without one or more traditions attached to it would be as 
difficult to find as a red ear of corn at a 'husking bee'. 

Between the spring and the mountain several mounds 
of rubbish and earth cover all that remains of the most an- 
cient Jericho; that of Josh- 
ua's period. In 1907-1909 
Prof. Sellin and the Ger- 
man Oriental Society un- 
dertook extensive opera- 
tions here, and their un- 
covered trenches disclose 



AN AVENUE OF VERDURE. 



remains which are of absorbing interest. A visit to these 
workings is like peering into the book of the past, and read- 



240 JERICHO AND PETRA 

ing in unmistakable characters a story of a forgotten civili- 
zation. 

According to the 'Good Book', Jericho fell before the 
trumpet blasts of the invading Israelites in a most marvel- 
ous manner. Round the walls of the doomed city marched 
the hosts of priests and people, bearing the sacred paraphan- 
alia of the tabernacle. On seven successive days they en- 
compassed the 
walls, and then 
six times more 
on the seventh 
day for good 
measure, 
whereupon the 
walls and the 
houses upon 
and within 
them came 
tumbling 
down in real 
style. So we 
read. Of course 

hard-headed German scientists could not, even for a mo- 
ment, tolerate the idea of a supernatural interposition in the 
affairs of men, or permit any interference with the workings 
of nature's established laws; so they said : "We'll dig and 
see what the ruins of old Jericho really prove". 

Well, the result of their digging lies before us. They 
have bared to the light of day a mass of ancient masonry 
which lay from ten to fifteen feet below the heaped up 
mounds of refuse. Among these walls and foundations were 
found innumerable utensils and articles of earthenware. The 
research work established the fact that there existed an in- 
ner and an outer course of walls resting on foundations of 
huge squared stones, beside which there were unearthed less 
pretentious remains of demolished stone and brick houses. 




THE 'SULTAN'S SPRING'. 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



241 



Do the ruins prove anything ? Yes, they clearly 
indicate, first, that, as had been supposed, the oldest Jericho 
was located on this conjectured site; secondly, that a large 
portion of the walls collapsed under unusual conditions. I 
myself saw, among the excavated portions of the town, entire 
walls which appeared to have fallen like a row of dominoes. 
— their component stones lying prostrate, yet in perfect 




'ADOBE' BRICKS AND COURSES OF STONE. 



alignment. Some of the 'bricks' of the mud houses, and the 
"mortar' (of a slightly lighter color) which fastened them 
together, seem to have disintegrated to such an extent that 
they have again become a part of mother earth. With a 
strong spade you could cut the entire mass into sections like 
caramels, both bricks and mortar having softened and uni- 
fied until they have become like the easily quarried tufa 
rock beneath the Roman Campagna. 

So here are the 'fallen w T alls' of Jericho : you may be- 



242 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



lieve what you will Perhaps an earthquake shock leveled 
them at a time most opportune for the besiegers, and those 
who chronicled the events of the period attributed the fall of 
the city directly to divine interposition. It may be that the 
ruins upon which we stand are the remains of a Jericho built 
many years after the conquest, but the curious forms of con- 
struction evident in some of the ruins, and the 'decayed' 




OLD JERICHO'S CRUMBLING FOUNDATIONS. 



condition of the 'abobe' brick walls about which I have 
written, seem to point to a period of great antiquity. 

In and around the trenches of the explorers are scat- 
tered numerous potsherds and fragments identified with the 
unwritten history of a vanished people. I illustrate the 
page with a reproduction of the bottom section of a small 
earthenware vessel, probably an oil-cruse. This I slipped 
into my pocket as a souvenir, although, had I so desired, I 
might have filled a cart with the discarded bits of pottery 
which lay thickly on every hand, attesting to the diligence 
of the excavators. 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



243 




After an indifferent luncheon comes the drive down to 
the Jordan. In the 'reception room' of the hotel there is 
spread out on a table a dusty collection of novelties and 
souvenirs, most numerous among which are little painted 
canteens for the conveni- 
ence of those tourists who 
desire to carry away a little 
water from the consecrated 
Jordan. After much search- 
ing, I find one which ap- 
parently doesn't leak and 

* . - AN ANCIENT POTSHERD. 

has a top which fits tolera- 
bly well; thus equipped we set out for the river. 

Having disentangled ourselves from the jungle of 
weeds and bushes surrounding pitiable old Jericho, and hav- 
ing been jolted over a ditch or two, we see, stretching drear- 
ily between us and the fringe of green tamarasks and bushes 
bordering the distant stream, an absolutely barren waste of 
pulverized clay, devoid of vegetation, above which the heat 
waves fairly sizzle. The poor horses stumble patiently a- 
long through the alkaline dust which rises in clouds before 
us and around us and floats defiantly behind in our wake. 
From the appearance of this flat, which is the older river 
bed, I conjecture that it is inundated to some extent during 
the time of the Jordan's overflow. Why, then, do not the 
natives put this land under cultivation and utilize the al- 
luvial deposit as do the dwellers by the Nile ? Perhaps be- 
cause of the abundance of naturally productive land in the 
neighborhood, and the meagre population of the village. 
But fifty years from now the visitor will find far different 
conditions, for even the desert may be made to bloom at the 
command of industry. 

The aspect of this region must be fearful to contem- 
plate during the Fall or early Spring, after a heavy rainfall. 
In fact I understand that at such times a detour is made to 
avoid the trackless waste of mud. For Summer travel in 



244 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



this disgusting region, the camel is far better provided than 
his equine brother. The broad cushioned feet of the 'ship of 
the desert' do not sink very deeply into the sand. Nature 
has applied the principle of the snow shoe in this case, and 
Mr. Camel walks at ease while the horse is forced to drag 
one foot after the other throughout the weary journey. 

We follow a well defined trail leading toward a spot 
where the trees break at a bend in the stream. As yet no 
river is seen; merely a thicket of green, stretching in either 
direction as far as the eye can see, marking its winding 
course through the plain. 

My boyhood ideas of the Jordan were very exalted, 
Reading of the crossing of the Children of Israel, I had pic- 
tured a wide, turbulent stream before which an army might 
stand aghast. When, however, we had reached the bank we 
saw a most ordinary looking creek, very murky in appear- 
ance and scarcely 100 feet in width. A few yards above the 
spot where we stood, the stream flowed sluggishly around a 
bend beneath low bending willows; while a short distance 
below, it turned away again with SB 
another sullen twist on its way JBL 
to the salt sea. A water-logged 
boat was moored to the bank at 
our feet, while close at hand a 
vermin-infested native sought re- 
lief in the Stygian shallows. 

Instantly our cherished illu- 1 ^""^W^ 
sions vanish ; we forget all about 
the Jordan of history, — the 
crossing of the Israelites or the 
baptism of Jesus. We forget that 

READY FOR THE 

thousands of pilgrims come yearly sacred water. 

to this very spot and regard a dip in the river as a soul saving- 
operation. It seems commonplace and disappointing. 

Although the Jordan has from earliest times been con- 
sidered a natural barrier, we see at a glance that a well 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



245 



equipped corps of engineers could throw a pontoon bridge 
across the creek in an hour. We heartily sympathize, more- 
over, with Naaman, the proud Syrian, when he objected 
strenuously to a bath in its bacteria-laden waters, and re- 
marked with upturned nose that he preferred the clean 
rivers of his native Syria. We agree with him that the 
'Abana' of the North is much more attractive, and without 
doubt more sanitary. Yet the imperious will of Naaman 
yielded in the end, and by obeying the prophet's directions, 
he was healed of his leprosy. The Infinite can use some ter- 
ribly unpromising things to fulfill His ends; so too from 
humble and unlovely and unlettered men and women He 
frequently causes golden influences to radiate. We are here 
reminded of that other lesson that in this life we must 'stoop 
to conquer'. As Naaman, the Syrian captain, passed through 
the dirty Jordan and came out whole and clean, so you and 
I, ere the fullness of our characters be attained, must yield 
gracefully to the testing and trying processes of life, — yes. 
and often 'eat humble pie' without a grimace. The golden 
treasure houses of success have low and narrow doors, but 
if we can bend without breaking and creep for a time with- 
out losing our power to stand erect, the victory and the do- 
minion shall be ours. 

There is no joy and life about the Jordan. It is pathetic 
in its silence and loathsome in its desolation. The red- 
blooded Yankee visitor heaves here a sigh for the sparkling 
mountain torrents and the abounding life of his own New 
England, with rapids and waterfalls dancing merrily through 
fragrant glades of cedar and hemlock, with deep crystal 
pools churned to foam by the struggles of a speckled trout 
tugging for a dear life at the end of his line ! If there are 
any fish in the Jordan I imagine they must be hot, tired and 
nervous; unworthy the efforts of the angler. (I ought to 
add however that there are no sportsmen among the natives 
of Jericho.) 

I brought away one recollection of the Jordan ; home- 



246 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



sickness ! The meanderings of the Jordan through the 
Jericho plain are strikingly like the windings of the river 
Passaic through the Great Piece Meadows of Morris Coun- 
ty. As the similarity dawned upon me, I almost expected 
to see my old canoe come swinging around the upper bend, 
with the laughing faces of 'Johnnie' or 'Irv;' hallooing and 




THE JORDAN. 

waving a dripping paddle to attract my attention. But no ; 
two seas intervene between the Jordan and 'the boys', and 
in fancy alone can I endow the forsaken Jordan with even 
this touch of life. 

We must not forget, however, that it is Summer, and 
Jericho was never intended as a resort for Summer boarders. 
Circumstances surely do alter cases. 

If you wish to get the most out of the Jordan in 
August, follow this recipe : Paint a mental picture of your 
Northern home in bleak December : Jack Frost is busily 
painting the kitchen windows, the wind whistles around 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



247 



the 'cold corner' of the house, the furnace is eating up coal 
as fast as you can shovel it in (with no appreciable results), 
and soon it will be necessary to venture out with mittens 
and ear laps to clean the thickly drifting snow from the 
walk ! Ponder upon these chilly thoughts in your heart of 
hearts, — and nice, warm, 'sunshiny', snowless Jericho, with 
the Jordan's tepid water nearby, will seem 'the place of all 
on earth most sweet'. 

St. Paul, I believe, said that he had learned 'whatever 
was his lot, therewith to be content'. Few of us are gifted 
with a natural spirit of resignation, and must perforce 'jolly 
oui selves along' occasionally as we tread the rough places 
on the highway. But the result justifies the means. 

We have no satisfactory clue as to the site of the 'Beth- 
abara' of John 1 : 28, where Jesus was baptized, but the 
spot to which we have come is a ford, and the presence of the 
two monasteries of St. John, hard by, indicate that at an 
early period the event was localized in this vicinity. It is 
said that in the 6th century both banks of the river at this 
point were paved with marble ; while every year, in accord- 
ance with the ancient custom, large numbers of pilgrims, for 
the most part Greek Catholics, come hither in the early 
Spring or at Easter time for baptism and worship. 

So I fill my little blue canteen with a few ounces of the 
precious water of the Jordan, after the manner of the count- 
less other pious visitors and pilgrims, and then we prepare 
for the still more trying drive to the Dead Sea, which we 
have already seen shimmering in the sunshine an hour's 
journey distant. 

A drive of four or five miles over the dunes brings us 
to the shores where the never-ceasing ripples wash the 
pebbly beach. About the size of the Lake of Geneva, the 
Dead Sea, or 'Sea of Lot', as the Moslems call it, is a 
charming body of water, with a gentle undulating swell and 
a soothing little 'swish, swish', as wave after wave rolls in. 
So profound is our contemplation of the far reaching ex- 



248 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



panse of gently tossing blue, that we forget the fact thu+ 
the heat was 'unbearable' a few moments ago. On the 
beach where we stand there is just a faint suspicion of a 
breeze, and we long for a boat of some sort to take us from 
the sweltering shores to the rugged mountains which push 
out into the sea away to the South, and give promise of a 
cool retreat. God bless the rocks and hills ! The shadow 
of a great rock in a weary land' is welcome indeed m a 
country where the sun beats mercilessly down upon a barren 
desert waste. 

It has been said that the land of the Bible is not 
the land of opportunity, yet right here in the 'deadest spot' 
of Palestine I think I perceive a chance for someone. 

When the world's tourists again turn toward Palestine, 
let some enterprising young fellow put in operation two or 
three speedy motor launches, making the circuit of the shores 
of the sea and taking in the wild and broker country at its 
further extremity, with the salt formations to the South- 
west and the 'Site of Sodom', which is sure to be an attrac- 
tion. This enterprise would prove a money-maker for its 
promoters and a means of keenest enjoyment for the tra- 
veler. 

As it is to-day, not a keel disturbs the placid waves, 
and not a habitable house is visible along its shores in 
either direction, save for a little shelter of dead branches 
half a mile away, and the rudely thatched shanty portrayed 
on the opposite page, which is the refreshment pa- 
vilion where all visitors linger for a few moments, and 
horses and drivers 'rest up' while the strangers are discus- 
sing the phenomena of the sea and its surroundings. This 
establishment we shall dignify by the title of the 'Dead 
Sea Hotel'. 

A bottle of good cheer is offered the visitor by the pal- 
sied old Moslem who counts the slowly passing hours by the 
sad sea waves. It is supposed to be the ever-popular 'ga- 
zoose', but it tastes like shaving-soap lather and bay rum, 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



249 



with a temperature of perhaps 80°, being kepc thus refrig- 
erated by burial deep in the sand along the beach. We are 
taxed about twenty cents for this delightful beverage, and 



we pay it willingly, as a sort of 'thank offering' to the Most 
High because He hath cast our own lines in more pleasant 
places. 

Then we buy a few trinkets, and pick up a few tiny 
shells along the beach, because it is customary to do this at 
the Dead Sea. I didn't bathe in the mucilaginous water. 
Despite its reputation, it doesn't look the least bit 
'sticky', although it feels rather oily to the touch and has 
a most unpleasant and brackish taste. The appearance of 
the sea is very inviting, however, and I suppose if there had 
been a party of us we should have chanced a plunge just for 
the sake of novelty. There isn't much fun, however, in 
wading about alone merely for the sake of entertaining a 
one-eyed driver and a dried-up old recluse, so the exper- 
ience was omitted. 

The unusual chemical elements which are present in the 
water of the Dead Sea form a combination of minerals in 
solution similar to that of Utah's Salt Lake. The salt de- 
posits here found have been collected from earliest times, 




r 



THE "DEAD SEA HOTEL'. 



250 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



while the occasional masses of bituminous matter which rise 
to the surface have always been utilized, not only by the 
ancients but by the present day inhabitants of the region. 
This body of water was navigated at the time of Josephus 
as well as during the Middle Ages. 

The earliest accounts of the Dead Sea were somewhat 
exaggerated, and our first accurate information on the sub- 
ject followed the report of the expedition sent hither by the 
United States government in 1848. French and German 
authorities have, within very recent years, gone into the 
matter most exhaustively, and all seem to find something 
worth narrating about this strange, mysterious inland sea. 
into which 6V2 million tons of water flow daily ; all of which 
is carried away by evaporation. 

Do you wonder that the sea is salty, or that the valley 
of Jericho is sometimes like the steam-room in a Turkish 
bathing establishment ? 

There is another interesting route leading back to Jeru- 
salem via the picturesque monastery of Mar Saba, and which 
runs through the village of Bethlehem. We did not follow 
this course, however, or spend a night at the rock girt 'hos- 
pice for gentlemen' as many travelers have done before. 
One alarming comment in good old Baedeker's guide book 
would, in itself, have been sufficient to deter us. It reads 
as follows : 

'The divans of the guest-chambers are generally in- 
fested with fleas." 

This touching warning is eloquently expressive in its 
simplicity. To be flea-bitten is not an inviting prospect, and 
we therefore ignored the abode of the devout Saint Saba. 
We trust the parasites were not so numerous when he dwelt 
upon earth. 

While it is true that most travelers 'take in' Jericho, it 
is likewise true that few care to penetrate beyond the Jor- 
dan and the Dead Sea into the country of Moab, or to work 
their way into the Southern desert toward the singular ruins 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



251 



of Petra, the stronghold of the ancient Nabatseans. 

If the traveler happens to be tarrying at Jericho when 
he decides to thus extend his journey, his best course will 
be to steer for Amman, the nearest station on the Damascus- 
Mecca line of the Hejaz railway, which has traversed the 
East Jordan desert for a hundred odd miles since last we left 
it at Der'at in Galilee. 

It is a nine hour journey to the railway, but the trip is 
likely to prove so interesting that you will dally along the 
route for two or three days before reaching Amman. That 
is, providing time is no object and you are traveling with a 
dragoman and properly equipped for camping out. There 
are some most diverting old ruins at Es Salt and Jerash, and 
if the traveler departs from his set purpose, or fails to keep 
his eyes fixedly upon his goal, he will find himself wander- 
ing around from one ruin to another like a boy chasing but- 
terflies. 

The country of the Moabites and the Ammonites is just 




BEDOUIN WOMEN GRINDING CORN. 



252 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



'chuck full' of ruins, and I strongly advise any one with a 
passionate liking for archaeology not to 'get started' unless 
he has six months at his disposal in which to ruminate. 

The road running North-east from Jericho reaches the 
Jordan in an hour and a half, which it crosses over a wooden 
toll-bridge. Here a tax of three piastres is exacted for each 
man and horse. The ruins of Tell Nimrin lie in our path ; 
this town was the 'Beth Nimrah' of the tribe of Gad. But, 
being on schedule, we must curtail our propensities to gad 
about, and continue jogging right along for another three 
hours, when a stop at 'Arak el-Emir and a little mouthful 
of lunch fills us with new zeal, and a spirit of greater appre- 
ciation for the beautifully wooded valley through which we 
are about to pass. 

The terraced hillside above us, with its ruined 'castle' 
was once-upon-a-time the private estate of an ancient capi- 
talist, or trust magnate, or corporation lawyer, or something 
of the sort. His name was Hyrcanus, and he lived about 
180 years before the Christian era, so Josephus tells us; but 
upon the death of this rich man, the estate fell into ruin. 
With a sort of sad reverence we regard the old walls, the ap- 
proaching causeway, and the dry moat around the ruins 
which it crosses. We wonder how many sleepless nights this 
old plutocrat passed, tossing upon his ivory couch or pac- 
ing restlessly his moonlit marble terraces, well nigh dis- 
tracted with worry over the fluctuations of his bonds and 
railway holdings, — or their B. C. equivalents. There 
broods over the lonely ruins this memory of a rich man's 
home, tenantless now these two thousand long years; 
rather different from the sanctity of old and ruined churches 
or the history of old fortresses. 

But the situation is still ideal for a 'residential proper- 
ty', and in centuries to come some 'rich Mr. Hoggenheimer' 
willrehabilitate these crumbling walls and re-adorn the slopes 
with landscape gardening, cascades, rustic bridges, and the 
like. A new race of happy children will romp around the 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



253 




THE RAILWAY STATION AT EL MA'AN. 



spacious grounds, and gleeful shouts wake once more the 
echoes of the olive-clad hills. It seems to me that I can see 
them come scampering down the driveway with joyful 
greetings for a fond and indulgent parent, who has just re- 
turned in his 90 H. P. 'Damascus Electric' from his day's 
manipulations in the offices of the 'Jerusalem Wool Ex- 
change'. And then I rouse myself from a twenty 

minute siesta ! 

Up and away again for the final stretch and Amman. 
This region, with its numerous ruined villages, must have 
been richly cultivated in days gone by, for even now it is a 
district of great fertility and verdure. Amman itself, the an- 
cient capital of the Ammonites, the Philadelphia of Ptolemy 
II, proves to be another city of ruins, with a modern colony 
of Circassians, three miles distant from the railway station. 
The ruins are some of the finest hereabouts, with the remains 



254 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



of a street of columns, ancient Roman baths, and a well pre- 
served theatre. Among the ruins in the valley meanders a 
goodly sized brook, vaulted over in several places. 

The Amman station is about 140 miles from Damascus, 
and one of the 'three-per-week' trains leaving the latter 
point on Wednesday morning is due here, after its twelve 
hour run, early in the evening of the same day. If this 
train is missed, a wait until Saturday evening will be the 
result ! Contrary to all pre- 
cedent, however, the faithful 
engine puffed into Amman al- 
most on time. Someone must 
have blundered, sure enough, 
but here was the train, so 
why worry ? 

After a day in the saddle the 
traveler will sleep soundly, 
even on the jerky trains of the 
Hejaz line, and we see practi- 
cally nothing until morning. 
All night the train has been 
ascending, following for the 
most part the ancient pilgrim 
route across the desert. Judg- 
ing from the appearance of the 
early morning landscape, we 
have missed but little during 
the nocturnal journey. At El 
Ma'an we find a station in the 
desert, and an oasis town, de- 
void of antiquities, a mile or so 
distant. With its mud brick 
houses and walls, mingled with 
poplars, palms and other 
fruit-bearing trees, El Ma'an 
seems more like an Egyptian 



The NABATzEANS were a famous 
people of ancient days, inhabiting 
Northern Arabia. With the migra- 
tion of the Edomites into Southern 
Judea after the Babylonian cap- 
tivity, these nomadic Arabs seem to 
have taken possession of the arid 
and rugged stretch of country lying 
between the Euphrates and the Red 
Sea. Their history cannot be traced 
with certainty beyond 312 B. C, 
at which time they were firmly 
located in the mountain fastnesses 
in and around Petra. At that time 
they were a virile and hardy com- 
munity, numbering perhaps 10,000 
warriors, living by pastoral pursuits 
and trade between Egypt and the 
East, chiefly in spices, incense and 
the bitumen from the Dead Sea, 
greatly esteemed by the Egyptians 
in their processes of the mummifica- 
tion of the dead. They became 
prosperous and independent, secure 
in their desolate country, which 
effectually safeguarded, their liber- 
ties. They soon controlled the Gulf 
of 'Akaba' and for a time their 
piratical traits made them exceed- 
ingly troublesome, until they were 
checked by the Greek sovereigns of 
Alexandria. 

Gradually assimilating something 
of Egyptian and Greek culture, they 
began to embellish the gorges of 
the Wady Musa, — where was lo- 
cated Petra, their capital, — and ex- 
tended their borders over the more 
fertile country East of the Jordan, 
while at one time their kings, Aretas 
III and IV, ruled far away Damas- 

CU They allied themselves with the 
Maccabees in their struggles against 
the Greeks, but later became jealous 
rivals of the Judean dynasty, and 
an element in the disorders which 
invited Pompey's intervention m 
Palestine. The Romans, however, 
made little headway against the 
Nabatgeans, and contented them- 
selves with a friendly intercourse 
and 'support' where it was impossi- 
ble to subjugate. Thus things went 
on during the first Christian cen- 
tury. Petra was the center of a 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



255 



town than a part of South 
Palestine. 

We are now on the borders 
of the red sandstone desert, 
and from this point the inter- 
esting expedition to Petra 
commences. Accompanied by 
the absolutely necessary escort 
of two mounted Arabs and the 
guide, — with whom, for once, 
we cannot dispense, — we set 
our faces toward the hills. 
The wild, free life of the Bedouins possesses much of 
charm. The nomadic Arabs care very little about the au- 
thority of Sultan or magistrate. Their unwritten laws of 
justice, hospitality and tribal jurisdiction are all sufficient. 
The venerable sheiks exercise considerable authority in their 
little spheres and consider it their prerogative to provide for 
the 'safety' of the Europeans who may come within their 
territory. While this protection and friendship is quite es- 
sential, it is easily bought, and thus the Arab of to-day 
courteously levies tribute whereas in times past he lived by 
knavery pure and ungarnished. Each sheik seems to recog- 
nize the bounds of his neighbor's zone of dictatorship, and 
the traveler in this part of the 'Turkish Empire' must pre- 
pare himself to conciliate and mollify a succession of hoary 
old bandits, through the boundaries of whose territory he 
must pass. 

The pure blooded Arabian steeds of fiction are never 
seen. The horses of the desert Bedouins are no better or no 
worse than those seen elsewhere. They do not 'arch their 
necks majestically as they enter the master's tent to eat 
from his outstretched hand' as some writers would have us 
believe, but are glad enough to nibble at the meanest thorny 
bush along the way ; evidently their allowance of 'hay, straw 
or stubble' is exceedingly meagre. It is claimed that in 



little commercial world all its own 
and became rich in public and pri- 
vate buildings, while its leading men 
were merchant princes. But habits 
of luxury and familiarity with a 
foreign civilization c racl ually trans- 
formed the desert freebooters into a 
sober trading people, who found 
themselves unable to resist the ag- 
gressiveness of the emperor Trajan, 
who put an end to their nationality 
in 105-106 A. D. As a Roman 
province Arabia Petraea attained 
some degree of prosperity, but being 
an outlying possession, began in the 
3rd century to decline. A few 
generations later the hordes of un- 
tamed tribesman from the deserts 
of the South forced out the remnants 
of the Nabataeans and made no at- 
tempts to perpetuate the erstwhile 
importance of their community. 



256 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



Central Arabia some of the powerful chieftains still possess 
a few head of pure blooded stock, but it is well nigh impos- 
sible to induce them to part with them for either love or 
money. On rare occasions notable persons have been signal- 
ly favored by receiving a beautiful horse as a present, but 




APPROACHING PETRA. 



the independent spirit of these desert noblemen seems to 
rebel at the thought of commercialism. (They would rather 
steal.) 

The atmosphere of the Petrsean desert is quite different 
from that of the stifling plains of the Jordan, for here we are 
some 3500 feet above the level of the Mediterranean, and 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



257 



the heat is tempered by a cooling breeze like that which 
makes the African Sahara endurable. 

The mountains toward which we are bound loom up red 
and rugged ten or fifteen miles away. Something about 
their appearance and the intervening plain reminds us of 
the struggles of poor Habib, plodding thirsty and footsore 
across the desert, as recounted in the tales of the Arabian 
Nights. 

Passing through several tent villages of Bedouins, we 
reach the foot-hills in due time, and enter the bed of the 
little Wadi Musa, which cuts through the defile of the 'Sik\ 
the narrow pass by which we shall approach the mountain 
stronghold of Petra and ruins the like of which do not exist 
in any other corner of the globe. 

Roughly described, Petra consists of a mass of rocky 
hills bisected by a wide valley running North and South, and 
again divided by a narrow and deep ravine crossing from 
East to West, through which runs the turbulent Wadi Musa. 
Thus divided by criss-cross valleys, we have a natural quar- 
tering of the mountains, on all sides and slopes of which are 
countless ruined tombs and temples and palaces. 

The 'color scheme' of Petra's treasure valley is unlike 
that of any other group of ruins we have seen. Here we 
have reddish and rose-colored rocks, and as most of the 
buildings are either rock-hewn or constructed of the native 
stone, everything possesses the rich ruddy tinge. In the 
early morning, especially, when the golden glow of the Eas- 
tern sky is playing upon the variegated and tinted strata of 
the cliffs, and the cloudless zenith and the drop-curtain of 
the Western horizon are transcendent in their deepest tints 
of blue, we have a chromatic combination of unearthly 
beauty. 

Along the Bab es-Sik are many preliminary attractions 
in the way of ancient tombs and rock-hewn sanctuaries. The 
rocky entrance to the Sik proper reveals the remains of a 
gigantic arch which formed the grand portal of Petra. The 



258 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



rock walls of the gorge attain a height of from 100 to 165 
feet, with the passage at the bottom, (in places artificially 
widened) , varying in breadth from 10 to 20 feet. Beside this 
old Roman highway runs the Wadi Musa, with numerous 
traces of its old time vaulting. An interesting tunnel not far 




EL JERRA — 'THE TREASURY' 



from the mouth of the ravine shows the method employed 
by the Nabataeans to dispose of the overflow of the stream 
in time of flood. This tunnel is over 300 feet in length, and 
carried off the surplus water into a neighboring gulley. 

Visitors to Petra generally concede that the most unique 
and beautiful monument existing to-day is that known as 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



259 



the 'El Jerra' temple facade, in the narrow entrance cut. I 
am indebted to another traveler for the accompanying excel- 
lent reproduction of this singular portico; a picture which 
could not have been obtained from the ground, but must 
have been taken from a ledge upon the opposite cliff. 
The natives imagine this structure to have been a treasury, 
although it is in reality a temple of Isis, and perhaps dates 
from the time of the Roman emperor Hadrian. Its two 
stories attain a height of about sixty-five feet, and, as may 
be seen, are elaborately adorned with columns and statuary ; 
unfortunately, some of the sculptured figures have been in- 
tentionally mutilated. Beside this, one of the principal 
columns has been broken off short. 

The large inner chamber and three smaller side apart- 
ments are empty, but the Bedouins cherish the idea that the 
inaccessible urn at the summit of the decorated lantern con- 
tains the 'treasure of Pharoah', whatever that may mean. 
But, like the golden plate which Philip caused to be set 
into the tower of the Spanish Escorial, it is out of harm's 
way. 

It would require an entire volume to adequately de- 
scribe the wealth of ruins which are strewn about the ap- 
proach to Petra alone. The road passage presently widens 
out into the main lateral valley, after passing a semi-circular 
hillside theatre with 33 tiers of seats, in the construction of 
which it appears that many of the older tombs of the Edom- 
ites were destroyed. 

The ancient town of Petra lay in the wide basin across 
which flows the Musa, whose banks were formerly lined 
with wrought stone, and in many places arched over. The 
majority of the dwelling houses of the city in the valley 
have disappeared, while it is the remains of the public build- 
ings, temples and tombs which have survived. 

A lofty spur of the Western range of hills served as an 
Acropolis, and was reached by a stairway cut into the rock. 
Upon its summit are the remains of a Crusaders' castle. 



260 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



What an ideal setting old Petra would be for a histor- 
ical novel ; a tale of Roman intrigue, Arabian courage and 
Eastern love ! How wonderfully Marion Crawford could 
have spun a narrative about these romantic ruins, or Dumas 
re-peopled these sculptured caverns with his sensual bac- 
chanalians or his heroic idealists. Hall Caine and Henryk 
Sienkiewicz might yet find it 
suited to their marvelous crea- 
tive powers. To my mind, the 
historical novel is a fit com- 
panion to biography for en- 
tertainment and education 
combined. I believe that the 
history which clings longest in 
our memories is the history 
which we have acquired 
unconsciously, and which 
we always associate with 
some powerful character of fic- 
tion. 

Among the tombs on the 
Eastern slope of the Acropolis, 
there is one which is unfin- 
ished, showing how the old Pe- 
trseans worked without the aid 
of scaffolding, — sculpturing 
from the top downwards. The 
'modus operandi' of famous 
men and famous peoples is 
rarely revealed in so compre- 
hensive a manner. This un- 
completed tomb reminds one 
of the half finished painting 
by the great Michaelangelo in 
the National Gallery, London ; 
which, through its very incom- 



PETRA was the chief city of the 
Nabatzeans, and of the ancient 
Edomites before them. It is be- 
lieved by some that the 'Sela' of 2 
Kings xvi-7 refers to this place. The 
primitive history of Petra is un- 
known, although some of its tombs 
seem older than the 5th century 
B. C. Petra successfully resisted 
the designs of Antigonus, 312 B. C. 
largely owing to its inaccessible 
position. The decline of the empire 
of the Ptolemies and the Seleucidae 
at the end of the 2nd century 
B. C., increased the importance of 
Petra. Under Aretas III, about 85 
B. C, Grecian culture had prompted 
the erection of splendid buildings 
and tombs, and the isolated city 
must have really been a desert 
Athens, architecturally, at least. The 
Roman yoke was never laid heavily 
upon the inhabitants of Petra al- 
though a state of vasalage existed 
after Trajan's conquest. At the time 
of the Arab supremacy the town had 
ceased to be of consequence. The 
Crusaders constructed a fortress on 
the nearby '.Jebel Harun', believing 
the rugged hill to be Mount Sinai. 
From that time, however, the name 
of the town disappears entirely from 
history; the ruins were an object 
of curiosity in the middle ages, and 
are said to have been visited by 
Sultan Bibars. It was not until our 
age, however, that Burckhardt 
brought ancient Petra again to the 
attention of the world. 

We may suppose that Petra was 
first inhabited by the Horites or 
dwellers in caves, and it would ap- 
pear that many of its inhabitants 
continued to live in caves, for after 
the advent of Greek and Roman 
ideas, the natural rock dwellings 
of the aborigines were often en- 
larged and beautified, so that Petra 
has always been what its name im- 
ports, 'a city in the clefts of the 
rocks', most of its houses being 
hewn out of the solid sandstone. 
Since its discovery more than 700 
tombs have been located in the 
rocky walls surrounding the old 
town site, which are mostly carved 
in imitation of the rude brick build- 
ings with sloping walls in which the 
old Nabataean inhabitants of the 
Petra Valley used to live, usually 
with domed or pylon-like tops, and 
often adorned with classic bits of 
architecture, hinting of the Greek, 
the Roman and the Egyptian. 



JERICHO A N D PETRA 



263 



pleteness, gives us an insight into the soul of its creator. 

The greatest array of purely Roman tombs appears in 
the rocky face of the North-east division of the hills. Com- 
mencing opposite the theatre, an entire day might profitably 
be spent in circling the valley face of this compact and solid 
cliff. One row above the other, there is a wonderful collec- 
tion of characteristic Roman sepulchers, some designed in 
imitation of temples, others in the likeness of palaces. You 
may be sure that all of the known tombs are empty, having 
been rifled long ago by generation after generation of chronic 
thieves and hereditary plunderers. The 'eighth wonder' of 
the world would be a Roman tomb in the Arabian country 
undesecrated by these desert marauders. 

The 'Latin Tomb' of one of the Roman governors, Sex- 
tus Florentinus, stands in isolated grandeur. The weather 
worn statue of Victory over the pediment seems almost a 
mockery; yet who can imagine that the public monuments 
of our own age will even exist, much less tell the story of 
forgotten victories, after the lapse of two thousand years ! 

Across the main valley are still other interesting mor- 
tuary chapels, one of which bears a lengthy inscription in 
the odd looking characters of the Xabatseans. There are 
hundreds upon hundreds of similar tombs, yet each having 
about it something unique and slightly differing from its 
companions, as though reflecting the personalities of the 
builders. 

But one becomes surfeited at last with the endless 
climbing and clambering, and is glad enough to lie him- 
self down for a rest beneath his black tent, or perhaps, in 
the hour or so before nightfall, to make a few notes of 
the day's impressions while still fresh upon his memory. 

If you are fortunate enough to have chosen a time of 
full moon for your visit, the picture of the Petra Valley by 
night will be unforgetable. None the less will this be so if 
you stand upon the crest of the rocks and peer into the 
sombre shadows of the valley with naught but the stars 



264 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



above, twinkling in the velvety blackness of the night. An 
overpowering sense of awe will steal over your soul, and a 
voice, coming up from out the darkness, will whisper in 

your ear : "._ What is man that Thou art mindful of 

him ?" 

There are numerous side trips from Petra to points of 
-zz^^ interest among the neighboring hills, 






TOMBS OF THE ROMAN EPOCH, PETRA. 

t^t^ which, like all other travel experiences, 
savor of the bitter-sweet. The arduous 
climbing, the rigors of the sunny hours, the covetousness of 
the Arab sheik of the region, to say nothing of the demands 
of one's own retinue; — all tend to counterbalance, in part, 
the joys of these suburban jaunts. Confine yourself to Pe- 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



265 



tra and you will have 'just enough' ; sufficient to satisfy and 
not a super-abundance to rob you of the real joy. 

We have the alternative of riding all the way back to 
Jerusalem by traveling overland and skirting the Dead Sea, 
taking in Masada and Hebron, but this latter route requires 
two or three days longer than will be the case if we retrace 
our steps to El Ma'an, and besides, it is much more expen- 
sive, for we shall have the added cost of sending our es- 
cort back to their homes from Hebron or Bethlehem. So 
our choice is the railway, and in due time we are again in 
sweltering old Jericho, with arrangements completed for 
making a very early start for Jerusalem on the morrow, — 
long before sunrise, this time, — to avoid the heat of the 
day. 

In the small hours of the morning I am roused from 
slumber by a gentle knock at the door, an unintelligible re- 
mark in some unearthly 'lingo', and I hear the slippered feet 
of the attendant softly pattering down the hall. A few mo- 
ments for dressing, and I am ready for a silent moonlight 
breakfast in the garden, beneath the lofty palms. It would 
be difficult to imagine a more 'spooky' experience. For 
utter loneliness, I believe it capped the climax of many 
days. 

The usual menu of pigeon, white grapes and honey was 
served by a waiter with whom I could not exchange a word, 
and, as I was again the only guest at the hotel, it seemed 
likely that my own thoughts were to be my sole compan- 
ions. But it was providentially ordained otherwise. In a 
moment my quiet reverie was broken by a plaintive 'me-ow', 
and there, beneath the table, was an emaciated looking 
feline, frantically clawing my trouser legs. Well, here was 
some company, at least, and I truly rejoiced in the society 
of my new found friend. We went 'fifty-fifty' on the pigeon, 

— Puss and I carrying on a little conversation meanwhile in 
that universal language, understood alike by man and beast, 

— the language of kindness. 



206 



JERICHO AND PETRA 




hungry-looking than the first, — drawn hither, I presume, 
by the welcome clatter of fork and spoon and the savory 
odor of the cooking viands. So my fifty per cent of the 
'eats' was further disseminated, and the new arrival busied 
himself immediately with the unexpected dainties. 

I must admit that I am partial to cats. My first liter- 
ary money' was received for The Autobiography of a Cat', 
written during odd moments of my High School 'study 
periods'. And I believe, with Scott and Bryron and Pierre 
Loti, that the companionship of our humble friends of the 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



267 



animal kingdom is not to be despised. It is very easy to 
understand the friendships which spring up between prison- 
ers and the rodents or even the spiders which infest their 
lonely cells. And I'll guarantee that if the reader had been 
in my position on that sultry August night in the Jericho 
garden, every purr of gratitude would have seemed to his 
ears, as they did to mine, sweetest music ; far more comfort- 
ing than the strains of the finest orchestra which ever graced 
the dining hall of Delmonico's. 

So we concluded the repast together, each well satisfied 
with the other; the cats 'washing up' in supreme content- 
ment, while I awaited the arrival of the carriage. At about 
four o'clock in the morning we started ; our squeaking wheels 
rousing every sleeper in the hamlet, and rolled once more 
across the stony waste beneath the stars. My driver had 
picked up a companion during his stay in Jericho, a little 
dark-skinned chap of perhaps twelve years, who sat perched 
beside him on the box. He was a shy little piece of human- 
ity, studiously averting his eyes, and evidently afraid of me. 
An orange colored woolen cloth was wound a- 
round his slim little body, girdling the one 
piece gown which covered him ; 
while a little round knitted cap 
set atop his close-cropped 
crown like a bishop's zucchet- 
to. I finally succeeded in per- 
suading him to get down from 
his elevated vantage point and 
sit beside me on the more com- 
fortable seat behind, where I 
gladdened his heart with a 
stick of chocolate, the last of a 
packet I had carried with me 
into the desert. 

The light in the East early 
began to illumine the sky; the 

BEDOUIN WOMEN. 





263 



JERICHO AND PETRA 




A RABIAN PROFILE 



Judean hill-tops first caught the 
ruddy light, then the slopes, and 
finally the misty haze over the 
Dead Sea lifted, and the shining 
water, emerging from the sha- 
dows, flashed back a greeting to 
the rising sun. 

We reached the summit of the 
pass about seven o'clock; some- 
how even the wild valleys and 
hills looked less forbidding in the 
morning hours than when we had 
last passed that way. Nor was 
the road up from Jericho desert- 
ed. On the contrary we over- 
took several bands of Bedouins, and a long train of camels. 
Even to this day, the old caravan trade has not been aban- 
doned, and every clay these plodding convoys, laden with the 
merchandise of the East, make the steep ascent to Jerusa- 
lem. They avail themselves of the hours of darkness, how- 
ever, and, as we know full well, the road at noon is deserted. 
Only 'fools and tourists', according to the natives, travel dur- 
ing the middle of the day. 

We came in for a round of hearty abuse from a mule- 
teer, ('camelateer', would be a better word,) because our 
rattling wheels had disturbed the order of his train. Fright- 
ened at our approach, two or three burly dromedaries broke 
ranks and sped down into the gulley alongside, giving the 
enraged driver a lively chase before he rounded up the strag- 
glers, assisted therein by a wolfish looking dog, who took 
the matter far better-naturedly than did his master. 

The Bedouin women share the hardships of their hus- 
bands and plod along like Indian squaws, usually bending 
beneath heavy burdens, or children strapped papoose-like 
on their shoulders. One interesting group offered a novelty 
in the way of a perambulator, for, while the parents and the 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



269 



elder children traveled afoot, the youngest offspring was 
carelessly tied with a length of rope across the back of the 
leading donkey, upon the top of a load of rattan, having 
been rocked into a state of deep slumber by the constant 
swaying of old 'Long Ears'. This primitive method of paci- 
fication works better than soothing syrup or lullabys. 

We soon overtook a man traveling alone and afoot, 
who, after a nod of inquiry in my direction and a word with 
the boy at my side, clambered upon the box. Then began 
a rapid fire of conversation in Arabic with the driver as we 
continued on our way. I had no idea as to who the stranger 
was, or what might be his business, until we approached the 




ON THE EDGE OF THE WILDERNESS 



'Good Samaritan Inn', where he jumped off, and I concluded 
that this was as far as he was going. He looked up as I said 
'Good bye' in English, and his bronzed face expanded into a 
surprisingly genial smile. 

"So, — you are English ?" he said, "if I know that I 
speak with you before.' 1 Then it transpired that he was the 



270 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



proprietor of the famous wayside inn ; he liked the Ameri- 
cans because they were liberal patrons in 'the season' ; the 
little boy who had ridden with us from Jericho was one of 
his own family, (there were eleven other children beside) ; 
and the boy was to continue on to Jerusalem, providing I did 
not object, on some sort of an errand for the father. 



"Of course he would be welcome", I said, "he is a nice 
little fellow", adding, facetiously, that "I should like to take 
him to America with me." 

"All right, you take him" instantly replied the parent, 
much to my astonishment, for he was apparently speaking 
with sincerity. "You send him to school; he work for you 
till he grows up" was the substance of his offer. I laughed 
the matter off, regarding it in the light of a joke; we shook 
hands and parted; his little 'Yakoob' continuing with us to 
the city. 

In a subsequent conversation with a Jewish merchant 
whom I chanced to meet, reference having been made by 
me to the offer of the inn-keeper, my acquaintance told me 




ANOTHER GLIMPSE OF JERUSALEM 



JERICHO AND PETRA 



271 



that he had undoubtedly meant what he said ; that without 
reluctance he would have allowed me to take the boy, relying 
on my promise to 'bring him up', and calculating that the 
opportunities accruing from an American rearing would be 




JEWISH ORPHANAGE, JERUSALEM. 



greatly to the child's advantage, and, in after years, a source 
of benefit to himself, — when the boy should return home 
with a first class foundation for life and perhaps a few good 
American dollars to boot. 

And so we came up out of the wilderness. 




BETHLEHEM 
ftNP JAFFA 



TJT H E popular 'jitney bus' would provide the ideal 
L I]/ means of transportation from Jerusalem to the sur- 
rounding villages, but for one vital objection : the 
shameful condition of the roads. Let me say, incidentally, 
that there are no automobiles in Palestine. No, not one. 
Even the 'adaptability' of the nimble Ford would be un- 
equal to the strenuous requirements of the steep Judean 
hills and the winding 'thank-you-ma'am' roads. In Egypt, 
on the contrary, one sees many expensive cars of European 
make, especially in Cairo and Alexandria, but the first has 
yet to make its appearance in the Land of the Prophets. 
Here is another chance for some motorist to engross his 
name upon the scroll of fame, provided a capable engineer 
has first paved the way by constructing a few decent roads, 
or re- constructing the once splendid Roman highways. 

For the trip to Bethlehem, we decided to practice eco- 
nomy. I had been fortunate in finding a companion for the 
outing who was a frequent visitor to Jerusalem and who 
thought he 'knew the ropes' ; so, acting upon his suggestion, 



274 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



I agreed to patronize one of the Bethlehem stages ; a vehicle 
which in point of picturesqneness far out-rivaled the dilap- 
idated 'Deadwood Coach' of Buffalo Bill's Wild West. On 
the whole, we should have fared better had we hired a 
private conveyance, for when we finally got into motion we 
carried a 'super-maximum' load. Eight cosmopolitan speci- 
mens of humanity were perilously huddled together in the 
lumbering ' carry- all'. 

We had been the first passengers to take our seats, and 
during the long interval of waiting had ample opportunity 
to study another new phase of Oriental life. Presently a 



r ^ > 




THE ROAD TO BETHLEHEM. 
The Birket es- Suit an in .the foreground, the Montefiore Colony to the 
right, while the railway station is situated a quarter mile 
further lown the road in the left distance. 



woman approached carrying a well-filled basket, and babe 
in arms beside. In she clambered, and established herself, 
basket and little-one, comfortably filling the opposite seat. 
We now expected to start, but our driver thought other- 
wise. By dint of much persuasion he succeeded in diverting 
another 'customer' from his rival's carriage. The bargain 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



.275 



-had been sharply driven, and for halj the price we were be- 
ing charged, our miserable Jehu had agreed to convey the 
stranger out to the village. The newcomer was a typical 
Palestine Jew with fuzzy broad-brimmed hat and long al- 
paca coat, burdened moreover with an ancestral gripsack 
smelling strangely of Mosaic times. 

To our great delight, and the disgust of the driver, two 
peasant passengers were next lost to his now clamorous 
neighbor. "Good," we said, and, after ten minutes further 
delay, were congratulating ourselves that through necessity, 
if not through decency, we should now have elbow room in 
our rickety landau. But no ; here comes an imposing Turk- 
ish officer, with red fez, dangling sabre, and natty black uni- 
form, accompanied by two business-like young Germans. 
"Surely," we say, "three more can't 
possibly squeeze in." But at the 
cost of trampled feet and cramped 
hips the deed is done, — how the 
good saints only know, — and off 
our poor mules start. I must con- 
fess thac our charioteer still seemed 
grieved at his inability to make 
room for three more Bethlehemites 
who just then appeared on the 
scene. 

The poor mules who draw the Je- 
rusalem-Bethlehem stage are a sor- 
ry looking pair. One of them is af- 
flicted with a wheezing, asthmatic cough, while his yoke- 
fellow is ring-boned and spavined. Outside of these ail- 
ments they are in prime condition. 

Down from the citadel of Zion into the valley of Hin- 
nom is a sharp descent. The coach gains momentum, and 
pushing upon the hinder-legs of the beasts, gives them no 
alternative but to break into a trot. Grinding breaks are 
applied to no avail. The gray mule on the left stumbles 




A MODERN JACOB. 



276 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



haltingly onward, with an occasional look of alarm as he 
turns his poor emaciated neck toward the holder of the lines. 
One almost expects him to voice his protests in stentorian 
tones like the much discussed ass of the prophet Balaam. 
But even pity for these abused creatures and pity for 




PLOWING TX PALESTINE. 



our own closely compressed bodies gives way before long to 
keenest interest. At the bottom of the valley, upon our 
right, we pass the pool now known as the Birket es-Sultan, 
so named in honor of a 16th century ruler who restored the 
ancient basin after ages of neglect. Now, alas, it is again 
partially filled with rubbish, and used every week-end as a 
cattle market. Higher up, nestled on the farther hillside, 
facing old Jerusalem, is the splendid modern Jewish colony, 
founded through the liberality of Sir Moses Montefiore. A 
windmill rises hospitably from the cluster of neat, tile-roofed 
homes, behind which are extensive vineyards; for the culture 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 277 




A DONKEY BOY' 



of the grape has proven a most profitable industry for 
Europeans who have come back to dwell in the land of their 
fathers. Indeed, the fruit of the vine and olive has been the 
choice portion of the people of Palestine from time im- 
memorial. Ancient stone wine-presses are met with among 
the ruins of countless deserted villages, while to-day the 
traveler will find upon the tables of many European hotels 
the selected vintages of the present-day colonists. 

Ascending again, we are laboriously drawn up the wind- 
ing road to the summit of the 'Hill of Evil Counsel', from 
which an interesting view of Jerusalem is obtained. 

Who has not heard of the railway to Jerusalem ? But 
it stops short of the Holy City, and the terminal station is 
located upon this detached hill. In a generation or two — 
as things move slowly in Israel, even in these modern days. 

— the traveler may ride into the city over a massive viaduct, 

— but that is anticipating. We have no use for the railway 



278 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



on our journey to Bethlehem, save to notice the afternoon 
train waiting to start for Jaffa, and to be informed that the 
locomotive which is ringing its bell so industriously is a 
friend from America, — a Baldwin, of Philadelphia, 

The Bethlehem road is in no wise remarkable ; the usual 
fine white dust rises in clouds from the heels of our team ; a 
stone now and then is ground under our wheels to give us a 
jolt, which aids in settling our luncheons, and also scatters 
over our garments the ashes from our neighbor's cigarette. 
There are stony fields on every hand, an occasional mud- 
brick or crumbling stone house, a bit of battered wall, a 
camel plowing, a flock of black goats, a passing peasant bend- 
ing low beneath a load; — these things are commonplace 
and trivial. But add to them the charm of history, and all 
is changed. Here passed the hosts of Israel on their way to 
battle with the 
Philistines. You 
can see the boy 
David, son of 
Jesse, the Beth- 
lehemite, 1 i t- 
tle dreaming of 
his great future, 
marching along 
beside his elder 
brother — gaily 
chatting, 'fair 
and ruddy of 
countenance.' 

Above the 
rattling of the 
wheels you may 

perchance hear a wild shout of victory, and lifting your eyes, 
see at the turn of the road just ahead a mighty host of war- 
riors and mail-clad men-at-arms; crusading knights, with 
flying banners, and swords yet wet with Moslem blood, 




THE TOMB OF RACHEL 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



279 



shouting defiance and gathering for the final fray, cheered 
by the first sight of the coveted Jerusalem. 

Have we been idly dreaming ? If such is your thought 
look at yonder white dome which we are fast approaching. 
A Moslem tomb, you say — some tribal sheik ? No indeed, 
it is the famous "Tomb of Rachel", the one stop for the 
tourist on the Bethlehem road, and revered by Moslem. Jew 
and Christian alike. Away back in the days of the Genesis, 




BETHLEHEM. 



perhaps thirty-seven hundred years ago, the devoted Rachel 
died, and was tenderly laid away near Bethlehem by the 
sorrowing Jacob. Tradition has always centered upon this 
spot, Long ages ago the original cairn of stones placed here 
by the patriarch disappeared, but the monument has been 
repeatedly renewed, and although altered in design, it still 
stands as the tribute of a broken-hearted old man. 

The twilight shadows have fallen for many a long day 
since the saddened cortege of men and camels departed from 
the consecrated ground, but who dare say that the famous 
age-old love story of the patriarch shall not have its epilogue 



280 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



in a 



brighter world, where partings never come ? 
The situation of Bethlehem is ideal. Nestling com- 
fortably among the hills, it is just such a beauty- spot as 
Nazareth of Galilee. And the Bethlehem of to-day cannot 
differ greatly in appearance from the village of ancient times. 
In other portions of the Holy Land the homes of the 
European colonists give an impression of newness, but here 
only the white towers of the Greek and Latin Monasteries 
lend a modern touch of color. 
All else is the dull grey of an- 
tiquity and nature's perennial 



To an American the social 
side of Eastern life is a shock. 
At first the shiftlessness of the 
people is inexplicable. Final- 
ly, however, he becomes accus- 
tomed to the filth littered 
streets, decaying walls and 
squalid children, and looks for 
naught else. So it was a dis- 
tinct pleasure for us to see 
even one trace of home-like 
pride as we rolled into the 
town. Upon the flat roof of 
a road-side hut the aged owner 
lay prostrate, leaning over the 
edge of the parapet, attempt- 
ing to pull out the weeds and 
bushes which had fastened 
their roots between the stones 
of his dwelling, and had evi- 
dently grown undisturbed for 
months. 

One by one our passengers 
alight, and soon we find that 



BETHLEHEM will ever be fam- 
ous in history as the home of David 
and the birthplace of Jesus Christ. 
Today it has a population of 11,000, 
the majority of whom are Christians. 
The name of the town (signifying 
in Hebrew 'The House of Bread') 
has remained practically unchanged 
for thousands of years. Frequent 
reference is made to Bethlehem m 
the Old Testament scriptures. Here 
were located some of the scenes nar- 
rated in the book of Ruth, and here, 
after David's time, many of the 
monarchs of his dynasty resided at 
intervals. 

Naturally, the early years of the 
Christian era brought many pilgrims 
to Bethlehem, and, as the scene of 
Christ's nativity, it grew in size 
and importance. The church built 
here by Constantine about the year 
330, was restored and enriched by 
Justinian During the next few 
centuries many other monasteries 
and churches were erected in and 
about the town. 

The first Crusaders who pene- 
trated to Bethlehem found it de- 
stroyed in great part by the Arabs, 
but were not slow in rebuilding the 
town as well as a fortified castle 
close by. In 1244 the place wa: 
over-run and destroyed by the Kha 
rezmians. and in 1489 a similar fate 
again befell it. Eor years thereaf 
ter Bethlehem remained but i 
straggling village, then gradually re 
vived. and has been slowlv recover 
ing its former prosperity during the 
last two or three centuries. blow 
indeed; for the Moslems have from 
time to time disturbed the inhabi- 
tants, even causing bloodshed until 
in 1831 they were expelled by the 
Christians, and three years later 
their quarter of the town was pulled 
down bv the Egvptian commander, 
Ibrahim' Pasha, To-day. however a 
small percentage of Moslems will still 
be encountered by the visitor. 

The Bethlehemites live by agr 
culture, stock raising, the manufa 
ture of novelties and souvenirs tor 
tourists, and a little trade with the 
Bedouins. The town lies about six 
miles from Jerusalem on the mam 
road to Hebron. 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



281 




we too must go afoot 
into the town. There 
is but one principal 
road running into 
Bethlehem, and that 
does not continue 
beyond the outskirts 
of the village. A 
massive post, set 
squarely in the cen- 
ter of the way, pro- 
hibits further riding, 
and we have the 



THE CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. 



pleasure of threading our way among the curious, jostling 
crowd who have come to meet the stage, through lane and 
alley, until we reach the Church of the Nativity. 

If there is, in all the world, a more forlorn and hopeless 
looking edifice, I have yet to see it. The principal facade 
presents the appearance of a battered fortification; abso- 
lutely devoid of architectural beauty, with but two or three 
little grated windows, and a tiny entrance door not over five 
feet in height, reminding one of the entrance to the great 
pyramid of Cheops. 

A treeless, sun-baked courtyard lies before the church, 
bordering which is a still more dreary enclosure ; — a ceme- 
tery. Not a shady Woodlawn, with a wealth of beautiful 
monuments and a profusion of flowers, but a desolate, stony 
field, thickly dotted with those other significant heaps of 
stones, often piled carelessly, and usually daubed with 
white-wash. Beauty can soften even the bitterness of death, 
but the poverty stricken wretches of Egypt and Palestine 
are totally occupied with the struggle for existence, and 
have neither time nor means for the indulgence of senti- 
ment. 

As we approached the doorway of the church, a stream 
of people began to emerge. Was it a wedding ? Or a bap- 



282 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



tism ? Presently came boys garbed in the vestments of the 
church, bearing crosses, and finally, surrounded by an ir- 
reverent, noisy mob, a coffin ! Carelessly carried, it was 
covered with cheapest pink muslin, and studded with brass 
tacks What a spectacle — and this at the Church of the 
Nativity ! Here, where the Christ was born, we were in the 
presence of death. Saddened and sick at heart, we bent low 

and entered the 




bove, ancient wooden beams supported the roof. And here 
one notices at once the same evidences of decay, and the 
same curious musty odor which permeates old San Marco in 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



283 



Venice; the atmosphere of the garret, the old book shop and 
the antiquarian. Once, we are told, the church was rich in 
gilding and mosaic, but very little remains to-day, save a 
few patches of color away up near the ceiling out of reach of 
harm. But who can wonder ? It is claimed by many au- 
thorities that this church is the identical structure erected 




'THE ARRIVAL OF THE SHEPHERDS/ From painting by Lerolle. 

before the days of Justinian. Beyond question it is extreme- 
ly old, and an example of the earliest Christian architecture. 

Here came the Crusaders, and here, on Christmas day, 
1101, Baldwin was crowned king. 

The old building shows its age. Who can look without 
emotion upon the time-stained walls and oaken rafters, or 
the massive columns touched by so many hands long since 
turned to dust ? 

Two flights of stairs beneath the altar lead the visitor 



284 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



to the 'Chapel of the Nativity' , situated below the choir, 
and lighted by thirty-two tiny lamps. In a recess, hung 
with somewhat tawdry draperies, and still other smoky 
lamps, a silver star has been let into the pavement, and here f 
we are told, the Christ-child was born. Among Church 
historians, the site is usually accepted as genuine ; for since 
earliest times tradition has associated itself with the spot. 
But what a contrast between the 'stable' , as we usually pic- 
ture it, and this subterranean grotto ! 

The truth of the matter apparently was this : that 
either beneath or behind the ancient caravansary or 'inn' , 
in which there was no room for the Holy Family, were rock- 
hewn caverns similar to the many which abound all over 
Palestine to-day. Here a shelter and a refuge was provided 
for the wayfarers, and this was the humble setting for the 
event destined to be the most momentous in all history. 

As to the actual manger, a marble 'cradle' is here 
shown, but the 
Church of San- 
ta Maria Mag- 
giore at Rome 
has one also, 
claiming it to 
be the original, 
so the visitor is 
not much im- 
pressed there- 
by. Under pre- 
sent conditions, 
the thoughts 
center upon the 
thousands who 
have worshiped 
here, or strug- 
gled for the 
possession O f FROM the tower of the greek monastery. 

The ancient roof of the Nativity Church in the left foreground. 




BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



285 




THE SHEEP MARKET. 



the East, bringing presents and devout adoration. A grave- 
faced priest passes through the chapel with swinging censor; 
a woman of the town, thin and shabbily dressed, who has en- 
tered unobserved, kneels and kisses the shining star of silver 
beneath the little flickering lights; and presently, from the 
church above, comes the sound of singing and the echoing of 
chanted responses. 

And then we bestir ourselves, and wander through other 
galleries and passages beneath the rock, past the tomb and 
into the chapel of St. Jerome, who labored here in the fourth 
and fifth centuries upon his work of translating the scrip- 
tures into Latin. 

There are other tombs here, and mosaics and fading- 
pictures, too, but we leave them at last for the ascent of the 
belfry of the adjoining Greek monastery. Although appar- 
ently strongly built, a nearer approach to the tower reveals 
the characteristic flimsy construction of modern buildings in 
the East, and we are somewhat doubtful as to the stability 
of the iron stairway, which surely would be condemned in a 
New York tenement. 



286 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



As we climb toward the top, some devout hand below 
pulls the bell-rope to intone the passing hour, producing an 
ear-splitting din, startling in its intensity, whereupon our 
poor trembling stairs begin to shake the more. 

From the summit of the tower, however, a beautiful 
view is afforded of Bethlehem and its environs, particularly 
toward the South and East into the Wadi er-Rahib, and 
toward Tekoah and the Frank mountain. Directly below us 
is the ancient lead roof of the Nativity Church, while upon 
the opposite side are spread the cemented house tops of the 
village; still further beyond are the reputed 'fields of Boaz'. 

Two minor incidents are indelibly associated with Beth- 
lehem. We had neglected to bring with us from Jerusalem 
anything in the way of liquid refreshments, and we dropped 
into one of those wondrous native shops to see what could be 
procured. The best Bethlehem had to offer was a white 
powder, wrapped in blue paper 
like a dose of medicine, which, 
when emptied into an unsanitary 
looking tumbler, resulted in a fizz- 
ling glass of "lemonade" with a 
taste like 'sedlitz powders'. I won- 
dered afterward whether such a 

decoction would 'get by' the 

stringest "Food and Drugs Law" ~ . BETHLEHEM smiles; 
in the homeland. 

And the other incident was likewise trivial. Just a 
glimpse into a Bethlehem 'home'. As we awaited the stage 
for the return to Jerusalem, we found ourselves standing be- 
fore a mean stone building. The door was open wide, re- 
vealing an interior of distressing squalor. There was but one 
room, with hard packed earthen floor, and nought in the way 
of covering or furnishings save a few mouldy mats of straw, 
a collection of greasy pots and pans, and a slightly elevated 
wicker truss, which evidently served the purposes of couch, 
table and bed. An exceedingly untidy woman lounged idly 




BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



287 



around; while a boy in his "teens", with face by no means 
unattractive, bare legged and clad only in baggy trousers 
and blouse, was engaged in 
the absorbing task of con 
suming a cigarette. 
While yet we tarried, 
mother decided to go 
visiting or marketing. 
Hastily throw- 
ing a shawl over 
her head, she 
produced a key 
as large as that 
of the Bastile, 
locked up the 
massive, dust 
covered wooden 
door, and de- 
camped with 
greatest uncon- 
cern, leaving her boy 
locked out, alone, and with nothing to do. And then I won- 
dered what he could possibly find to do in Bethlehem, — 
what incentives or encouragements there were to lead him 
toward useful manhood. And I came to the sad conclusion 
that there were none. No adequate schools, no libraries, no 
social centers, no clean companions, no scout-craft, no ac- 
quatic sports; nothing worth-while. And this is the reason 
for the changeless, listless, degenerate East. You who have 
a knowledge of history, tell us, if you can, how many great 
master-minded men has the East produced in the last five 
centuries ? It is indeed a pertinent question. 

Thank God, then, you men who have manly boys, and 
you boys of the good old "U. S. A." who have parents of re- 
finement and culture, and whose good fortune it is to live in 
an enlightened and progressive land. One year of life 'mid 




HOUSETOPS 



OF BETHLEHEM. 



288 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



our surroundings, means more than the eight hundred years 
of poor old antedeluvian Methuselah ! And if ever the op- 
portunity comes to you to help or advance in any way 
the condition of the unfortunate boys or girls of the Orient, 
do not fail to improve it. 

Ere we are fairly started upon our return journey, the 
fast creeping shadows of evening have settled down, and 
turning for a last look from the brow of the hill, we see the 
Bethlehem of our dreams. The distant town seems wrapped 
in silence and shadow, but the far stretching valley is flood- 
ed with silver moonlight. And in that matchlessly clear 
Eastern sky every star twinkles with startling brilliance, and 
the milky way spreads over us like a canopy studded with 
innumerable gems and clusters of shimmering glory. A 
group of camels slowly passes, and a weary herdsman home- 
ward bound, drives before him his flock of sheep. Then, of 
a truth, the beauty of the first Christmas eve dawns upon 
us with all its sweetness. Present day Bethlehem is wrapped 
in a mantle of poetry, and our too practical and often doubt- 
ing hearts are filled with reverence. There comes to us once 
again, as in the days of childhood, the wonderful reality of it 
all, and the angel chorus and prostrate shepherds, the new- 
born Christ-child and the adoring Magi have again become 
part and parcel of our lives. And so may it be forever, for 
now we too have been to Bethlehem. 



Excepting those who bid us Godspeed at the Olivet 
House, there is but one person in all Jerusalem to say 'good 
bye' as we set out to catch the train for Jaffa. Passing the 
cab stand by the German bank, whom should we espy but 
the driver who brought us down from Galilee. He appears 
to be doing 'city duty' now and stands, whip in hand, beside 
his rig. Catching sight of us at the same time, he smiles 
broadly and shouts a lusty adieu. How cheering is the sight 
of a familiar face! Although I had known him for but a 
brief three days, he seemed that afternoon like an old, old 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



289 



friend, and his greeting warmed my heart. But I will not 
say 'good-bye' to Jerusalem, hut rather 'au revoir' — until 
we meet again, for some day I hope to revisit the Holy City, 
at which time I shall no doubt behold a center of popula- 
tion whose progress has kept pace with the rest of the 
world. 

A railway station is a place of heart throbs. The meet- 
ings and partings which we witness always touch a tender 
spot in our own make-up. The Jerusalem station is crowd- 
ed ; some of those leaving the Holy City intend to catch the 
morning steamer at Jaffa and make connections for Eu- 
ropean ports, and women and children who are to stay be- 
hind cling closely about those whom they must shortly re- 
linquish. It is quite different to be going home, and while 
my own heart warms at the prospect of reunion. I under- 
stand exactly the feelings of the little girl who wipes away 
the fast falling tears with the corner of her shawl and tightly 
clutches father's big hand, dreading the bell which means 
farewell. God grant, little one, that papa may return to you 

in safety ! They that 'go down __ 

to the sea in ships, that do busi- 
ness in great waters' not only 
i, 'see the works of the Lord' but S 'J 




ZIONIST COLONY AT EM-EL-DJMAL, CENTRAL PALESTINE. 



290 BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



The run to Jaffa is made in 
about four hours, just long 
enough to be enjoyable. After 
leaving Jerusalem we enter up- 
on a rocky and rather barren 
region, evidencing however 
constant traces of former habi- 
tation : every mile reveals 
scores of crumbling and mys- 
terious ruins, and countless 
piles of scattered stones lying 
about the fields, — the remains 
of ancient terraces and forgot- 
ten city walls. 

It is a country rich in Old 
Testament lore, the 'stamping- 
ground' of Samson and Samuel 
and Saul. Dr. Benjamin L. 
Gordon, writing in a recent ar- 
ticle, says that he saw roaming 
around among these sterile 
fields many small foxes, per- 
haps the lineal descendants of 
the famous three hundred, to 
whose bushy tails the doughty 
Samson tied fire-brands, and 
then sent them scurrying 
through the standing corn of 
his inveterate enemies, the 
Philistines. One cannot won- 
der that the foxes moved with 
agility, but it is also evident 
that there were no humane so- 
cieties in those heroic days. 

The train soon runs into a 
richer country, and the modern 



The COLONIZATION OF PALE- 
STINE by Jews does not date back 
more than about thirty-five years. 
Up to that time the love of Zion 
was expressed by prayer and by the 
hope that at some indefinite period 
and by miraculous means the Jew- 
ish people would be once more re- 
stored to the land of their fore- 
fathers. 

The persecutions of the Jews in 
Russia and Roumania, which be- 
came unbearable about 1881, caused 
many of the Hebrews in these 
countries to turn their eyes towards 
Palestine as a haven of rest from 
their oppressors. They emigrated 
in large numbers ; but the land was 
not ready to support them. For 
nearly two thousand years it had 
lain fallow. Of all its possessors 
none had cultivated it. 

In these circumstances the poor 
immigrants suffered the direst dis- 
tress. The land that they bought 
was in most cases quite unsuit- 
able for cultivation, and many of 
them tore up the ground with their 
fingers in the absence of the neces- 
sary implements. But nothing could 
daunt the people in their eagerness 
to live anywhere but in the land of 
their oppression. Starving and al- 
most naked they clung to the land, 
— not for days or weeks, but for 
many long weary years, — until at 
last relief came to them. Attention 
was drawn to their distressed con- 
dition and the father of Jewish 
Colonization in Palestine, the great- 
est of all Jewish philanthropists, Ba- 
ron Edmond de Rothschild, came 
to their assistance. 

With this help and with the aid 
of the different Chovevei-Zion so- 
cieties, that were started to extend 
his benevolent work, the colonists 
have been able to emerge from the 
condition of misery in which their 
inexperience and want of means had 
placed them, and they have shown 
the world what the Jew can do in 
the way of manual labor when he 
is afforded the opportunity. 

The Jewish Colonization Associa- 
tion, with headquarters in London 
and many of the German cities, was 
entrusted with the administration of 
$30,000,000 left by that other great 
philanthropist. Baron de Hirsch, as 
a legacy to the Jewish people, and 
took up Palestine work in the year 
of 1899, when they assumed the 
management of the Rothschild col- 
onies. Baron Hirsch himself took 
no interest in Palestine during his 
life, not because he was averse to 
the colonization of that land, but be- 
cause he "would not be Roth- 
schild's rival." Hirsch also feared 
that Palestine would eventually fall 
into the hands of Russia, and for 
that reason he preferred the Ar- 
gentine Republic as the great land 
of opportunity. 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



291 



The Palestine colonists have 'made 
good' however, despite adversity and 
discouragements. They have called 
into existence farms and cottages, 
vineyards and wheatfields. 

No Jew can regard this state of 
things without a glow of pride, be- 
cause it shows that the old spirit is 
still alive ; and that the people have 
not, through their long exile, lost 
the capacity for agricultural work 
which characterized them in olden 
times. 

During very recent years our A- 
merican Jewish philanthropists have 
contributed liberally to the prosperi- 
ty of the settlers. 



colonies begin to intersperse 
the native hamlets. While 
many of the Palestine colonies 
are located between Jerusalem 
and Jaffa, most of them are off 
the railway line. On a hillside 
about twenty miles from Jeru- 
salem is seen Artuf, a small 
colony of Bulgarian Jews 
founded in 1896, while a few miles further on lies Akir, once 
the Philistine city of Ekron (Josh. XIII-3) now a Jewish 
colony of 300 souls founded by Baron Rothschild in 1884. 

On a distant eminence are the ruins of Gezer, an ancient 
Canaanitish city little known to the general public, (not the 
Gaza of scriptural fame, which lies away to the South, a 
day's journey beyond Hebron). The Palestine Exploration 
Fund has financed recent excavations at Gezer, of which a 
splendid account was brought out in London in 1911 by R. A. 
Stewart Macalister. The diggings revealed five main epochs 
in the history of the town. Lowest of all were cave dwellings 
with flint imple- 
ments, perhaps 
from a period dis- 
tant 4500 years. A- 
bove this were 
found traces of E- 
gyptian influence 
upon the aborigin- 
al town, with jew- 
elry and ornaments 
of 2000-1000 B. C. 
Still nearer the sur- 
face the remains of 
two Jewish occupa- 
tions had been 
brought to light, 




ORANGE GROVE, OUTSIDE JAFFA. 



292 BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 




FARMERS OF THE EL-KASTINIAH COLONY. 



presumably of periods before and after the exile, with an- 
cient weapons of bronze. And all this was buried deep be- 
neath ruins of Moslem and Crusading days ! Some of the 
graves contained clay vessels closely resembling the 'finds' 
on Crete and Cyprus. These, with the Egyptian relics, 
clearly indicate the close relations existing between the peo- 
ples dwelling along the borders of the Mediterranean, truly 
recognized as the center of the ancient world. 

Amid luxuriant orchards and a profusion of sycamores, 
olives and palms, lies Er-Ramleh, fourteen miles from the 
coast, a town purely Moslem in its origin, and famous to-day 
only because of its minaret, the only remaining portion of a 
ruined 13th century mosque. Like that of St. Jacques in 
Paris, this tapering tower has survived the body of the edi- 
fice, and today dominates the district for miles around, af- 
fording a beautiful view of Palestine at its best. 

At Lydda we have another town still more ancient, with 
an unbroken history which may be traced back to the return 
of the Jews from exile. 

The country immediately surrounding Jaffa is a para- 
dise of verdure, made more beautiful still by constant culti- 
vation. It is here that many of the colonists have achieved 
their best results. From the windows of our railway carriage 
we see some of the outlying farms, surrounded by their fer- 
tile lands, interspersed with the clay villages of the natives. 
The railway as it enters Jaffa itself, introduces the passenger 
to a scene of greatest activity, with unmistakable evidences 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



293 



of a lively commerce, — and 'something going on all the 
time.' Wherever you turn, there is hustle and bustle. 

My brief stay in Jaffa is destined to be a most pleasant 
one, for here I am to meet a gentleman from Brooklyn, a 
merchant with whom I became acquainted enroute to Bey- 
rout on the 'Elektra'. He had urged me to 'look him up' at 
Jaffa, so immediately upon my arrival I jumped into a cab 
and headed for his headquarters; — the Hotel Kaminitz. 
True to his word, he was ready to show me the attractions 
of Jaffa as few transient tourists are able to see them, and to 
him I am indebted for many interesting glimpses of the life 




OLD JAFFA. 



an annual trip to Palestine ; he has many acquaintances both 
in Jaffa and Jerusalem, and as I sat down with him at dinner 
it seemed as though his friends were mine. The Hotel Ka- 
minitz is a distinctly Jewish institution; my fellow guests, 



294 BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



as a matter of course, ate withoi 
caps, — and the meal, entirely 
the most formal personal de- 
votions. Beside each plate 
was a bottle of the genuine na- 
tive wine, bearing the attrac- 
tive label of one of the colonies 
of Zion. Even though a stran- 
ger, I could not fail to be con- 
scious of the characteristic 
hospitality of my hosts, unos- 
tentatious yet nevertheless 
sincere. 

The remainder of my narra- 
tive must deal more with the 
present and future than with 
the past, for with our arrival 
at Jaffa it seems as if we had 
left the dead 'has beens' for 
intensely vital matters of to- 
day. And we start off with a 
real live proposition. The 
'Ball Room' of the hotel was 
gaily decorated. Just an hour 
before my arrival a Yiddish 
wedding had there been sol- 
emnized, with all the impres- 
sive ceremonies of orthodoxy. 
The son of the proprietor of 
the hotel had taken to himself 
a bride, and even now the fes- 
tivities were in progress in an- 
other part of the town. In the 
hall where the ceremony had 
been performed we saw the 
specially constructed dais, 



t removing their little black 
sectarian, was preceded by 



JAFFA, the JOPPA of the An- 
cient Greeks, is the seaport of Je- 
rusalem. To-day it has a popula- 
tion of about 50,000. Originally 
it appears to have been a Phoenician 
colony in the country of the Phili- 
stines. Mythology recounts the fact 
that on Jaffa's rocky reef was 
chained the beautiful Andromeda, 
from which she was released by 
Perseus. The disobedient Jonah is 
said to have been cast overboard 
and snapped up by the whale just 
outside the port of Jaffa. So much 
for the early traditions. 

In the record of the fortresses 
overthrown b/ the great Thutmosis 
III of Egvpt" (1515 — 1461 B C.) 
we find mention of Joppa. When 
Solomon reigned in Jerusalem, it 
was to the port of Joppa that Hi- 
ram, King of Tyre, sent his timbers 
of cedar for the construction of the 
Temple. Babylonian inscriptions of 
the times of Sennacherib, and la- 
ter of Eshmunazar refer to the sea- 
port town. 

In the wars of the Maccabees, 
Joppa was fortified by Simon. As 
detailed in the 'Acts of the Apos- 
tles', Christianity was introduced 
here at an early date. Vespasian 
destroyed Joppa during the Jewish 
war, on account of its being a 
haunt of pirates. As a port, the 
town possesses no natural advan- 
tages, although it may have been 
artificially improved in ancient da>s. 
In the 5th to the 11th Centuries, 
Joppa seems to have been repre- 
sented by bishops at various church 
conventions. The Crusaders held 
the place for years; in 1126 the 
port came into possession of the 
Knights of St. John. In 1187 Sa- 
ladin took the town, (or rather his 
brothei', Melik el'Adil, did so.) King 
Richard captured the prize four 
years later, but it was in 1196 or 
1197 retaken by the Moslems. It 
was restored to the Christians in 
1204, and finally despoiled by Bey 
bars in 1267. In 1799 Napoleon 
found here a city of considerable 
size, strongly defended ; which was 
however, successfully stormed by 
Kleber. Here many of the French 
troops died of the plague, before 
the First Consul saw fit to abandon 
his attempts against the Turks. 

Modern Jaffa is surrounded by 
numerous groves and gardens, is 
well supplied with water and carries 
on a lively commerce; both in re- 
gard to native products and foreign 
imports. In the town are stationed 
consular agents representing most of 
the leading European countries, as 
well as our own. The numerous 
Jewish and Temple colonies situated 
on the outskirts of Jaffa have ma- 
terially added to its prosperity in 
recent years. 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



295 



with its huge throne-like chairs for 
the bridal couple, while around 
the floor were traces of rice and 
confetti, — there is just enough 
of the progressive element in 
Jaffa to give to wedding festi- 
vities the up-to-date touch- 
es, — although we didn't 
see any old shoes lying a- 
bout. 

After dinner I accepted 
the kind invitation of my 
good friends to go out to 
the new Russian colony, 
Telawiw, and participate in 
the reception being held in 
honor of the newly wedded 
pair. As we walked through 
the streets of old Moslem Jaffa 
after dark, we found the towns- 
folk beginning to wake to the 
activities of the Ramadan even- 
ings. On every hand were most 
enlivening scenes, the brightly illuminated shops were all 
open and doing business as if by day, everyone was up and 
about ; the merchants bartering and the idlers gossiping. 
Music and singing was heard on all sides, and the spirit of 
all Jaffa that night seemed to be one of unusual rejoicing and 
gaity. The flickering oil torches, the noisy crowds and the 
yelling hoodlums combined to create an atmosphere strik- 
ingly like that which permeated the old home town on the 
night of a political parade, in the days when 'free silver' and 
'sound money' were live issues and sufficient to set things 
'a going' in the village. 

We presently left the confusion of the city and plodded 
across a short stretch of sand intervening between the old 




FEAST DAY AT TELAWIW, 



296 BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 























■ ■ ■ • - 



JAFFA BY THE SEA. 



town and the new colony. In the new city we found fully 
as much activity as that in ancient Jaffa, but of a far more 
refined sort. We walked upon paved sidewalks and min- 
gled with well dressed Europeans as we wended our way 
toward our destination, a house brilliantly illuminated, from 
which proceeded strains of music and dancing and mirth, as 
though some 'prodigal son' had returned. Up the stairs we 
climbed and joined the festive throng. I shall not readily 
forget that evening, which marks the high water mark of 
Palestine life, just as the Jordan had seemed to me to be the 
spot most desolate. There could not possibly be a greater 
contrast. 

The house was crowded with visitors, and to all intents 
and purposes I was a life-long friend of the bridal couple. 
Every one was in fine feather. The good natured guests 
never murmured nor showed the slightest evidence of disgust 
when, as often happened, some ungainly and booted dancer 
trod upon their feet. The capacious punch bowl was re- 
peatedly emptied, and as many times refilled. The perspir- 
ing musicians also appeared to be enjoying their work im- 
mensely, in as much as they were stimulated in their worthy 
efforts by the 'good cheer' which was instantly diverted to 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



297 



iheir corner whenever they showed signs of weakening or 
fatigue. 

I believe we witnessed every variety and style of Rus- 
sian folk dance, all executed with characteristic agility, and 
as much grace as the narrow limits of the crowded rooms 
would permit. 

As to the bride, of course she was pretty, although 
lather 'fussed up' with the excitement of the evening, and 
blushing delightedly and continuously in response to the 
oft-repeated congratulations. 

The groom looked rather un- 
comfortable in his formal and 
unwonted finery, nevertheless 
he appeared to regard himself 
as the lion of the evening, 
and strutted about among 
the company with an air of 
infinite importance, keeping 
an eye ever upon his newly 
acquired treasure, as 
though fearful lest she be- 
come 'lost in the shuffle'. He 




was a good 



looking young 



TYPICAL COLONIST'S HOME. 



swain, stalwart and fit 'as a 
strong man to run a race'. God 
grant, old scout, to bless you and 
your attractive little bride; may 
your life's journey together be a prosperous pilgrimage, 
with the 'blue bird of happiness' ever singing by the door ! 

In a far corner, apart, sat an old, old woman, thought- 
fully smoking a long-stemmed pipe and musing of other 
days. I was informed that she was a great-grandmother of 
the bride. As she sat thus, quietly enjoying the merry- 
making of the younger generation, it would have been in- 
teresting indeed to have heard the expression of her 
thoughts. She had witnessed far different scenes in years 



298 BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 




SCIENTIFIC FARMERS. 



gone by. In her youth she had seen much of persecution in 
her native village. Perhaps she pictured even now the bru- 
tal Cossacks or the secret police of the Czar, for whose sus- 
picion and spite every Jew was a ready victim. To this old 
'mother in Israel' then, more than all the others of that as- 
semblage, must have come feelings of most profound grati- 
tude. With Russian tyranny a thing of the past, it was now 
her happy lot to spend her declining years in peace, sur- 
rounded by children and children's children. Frequently I 
saw the younger guests approach and inquire solicitously as 
to her welfare. Although old and unlovely she was not 
ignored. 

All honor to the Jews for their filial affection ! They 
teach us all a sterling lesson. How many Jewish 'Homes for 
the Aged' does one hear about ? Few indeed; for as a race 
the Jews take care of their old folks, and the aged forebears 
are ever welcome at the ingle side. The old admonition, 
'Honor thy father and thy mother' has surely been obeyed ; 
never 'grudgingly, or of necessity, but as the Lord hath 
prospered'. 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



299 



Next morning we set out to see the town. The only 
antiquity of note in Jaffa is the 'house of Simon the Tanner', 
which all travelers know is but a 'catch penny' device, yet 
which all seem to visit. The stone tan-vat here shown is 
nothing new, that is certain, but we have seen just such old 
troughs may times before, particularly among the ruins of 
resurrected Pompeii. The Palestine tanners of the present 




THE 'HOUSE OF SIMON THE TANNER. 



day, however, follow the same methods as those employed 
by their sires forty generations back, but I suppose the smil- 
ing old Turk thinks this ancient tub really belonged to 
Simon in days gone by, for he exhibits no outward manifes- 
tations of a guilt-stricken conscience as he pockets the cus- 
tomary 'present.' 

Jaffa itself is most amusing; for an insoluble mixture 
of diverse peoples and tongues and garbs, this old seaport 



300 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



town offers a peculiar problem. Jaffa is an anthropological 
crazy quilt. In America the sight of a straw hat in October 
will cause a craning of necks, we even turn for a second look 
as a soldier or a sailor passes us on the street, but here in 
Jaffa I believe that nothing short of a Zeppelin would cause 
a word of comment or a look of curiousity. For centuries 
Jaffa has been the port of entry into Palestine for all the 
peoples of the world, and the consequent familiarity with 
strangers and strange habits and customs has been bred in- 
to the bones of the inhabitants. Yet, despite its commerce, 
Jaffa has not even a landing wharf : half a mile out to sea, 
beyond the ugly rocks and breakers, we see the ships riding 
lazily at anchor. By means of small boats passengers and 
merchandise are conveyed through the surf between the 
city and the vessels moored outside the reef. I question 
whether any other government but that of decrepit Turkey 
would permit such a pitiable state of affairs to exist, but af- 
ter the war we shall see a marked improvement, whichever 
way the tide turns. What Russia could do at Archangel she 
can do again at Jaffa; what Germany could effect in the 
construction of the Kiel Canal she can repeat here, and what 
Britain accomplished at Fishguard or Liverpool she may 
achieve at the commercial door of the Holy Land. No mat- 
ter what may be the outcome of Europe's titanic struggle, 
there is bound to be a more pronounced European influence 
in Palestine, and Jaffa's harbor will quite naturally present 
a case for immediate and drastic action. I have heard but 
one fear expressed, and that by some of my Jewish friends, 
who believe that a Russian government would mean intol- 
erance, and a repetition of the restrictions practiced in times 
past by that power. It is my personal opinion, however, 
that the present crisis has taught Russia many needed les- 
sons; she has proven among other things that the Jew can 
be a most loyal subject, for thousands of them have shed 
their blood for her. And, moreover, Russia, feeling at pres- 
ent the developing influences of an alliance with more liber- 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



301 



al peoples, — with whom as a nation she has never before 
been so closely associated, — must be blind indeed if she re- 
fuses to mend her ways and revise her code of internal ad- 
ministration. Beside, a war crisis brings a nation's best to 
the forefront; there is more of democracy and less of czar 
and despotism : the old regime is passing. Not only Russia, 




THE ROCKS AT LOW TIDE. 



but all of Europe, will emerge from the awful cataclysm of 
war more truly religious and more truly brotherly. 

Jaffa has its public square, its white Serai, its old, rag- 
shaded bazars, its 'tourist traps' full of Eastern merchan- 
dise, prosperous enough in times of peace; its coffee houses, 
— round which lingers the aroma of Turkish tobacco and 
good old Mocha; — and in addition thereto, the foreign 
commercial element, — merchants who have established 
themselves permanently here, and whose warehouses and 
salesrooms give evidence of the extensive commerce of which 
Jaffa is the center. 

On the mornings when a steamer is about to depart, the 



302 BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 




FARM-LAND OF THE GERMAN TEMPLE COLONISTS, NEAR HAIFA. 

carriages laden with tourists rattle through the streets, and 
hand carts, piled high with trunks and bags, are wheeled 
about by burly porters, across the breasts of whose blue jer- 
seys we see in big red letters the names of some of the hotels 
and tourist agencies. 

Down by the water's edge, where the big, clumsy boats 
are pushed out from the sandy beach by brawny and sun- 
browned Arab longshoremen, there is always plenty of ex- 
citement. The chain of black rocks which stretch along the 
shore for a quarter of a mile, foam necked and glistening in 
the sun, are best seen when the tide is running out. 

Old Jaffa is compactly built upon a hilly slope, facing 
the sea; but on all other sides the town is hedged about by 
orange groves, vineyards and orchards. A short walk be- 
yond the limits of the town in any direction will lead you 
through a fragrant and beautiful countryside, where singing 
birds and drowsily humming insects each add their note of 
song and color to the charming vista, while the delightful 
breeze from the ocean, close at hand, leaves little to be de- 
sired, and creates an almost perfect blending of nature's 
charms. 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



303 



On the outskirts of the city of Jaffa are two German 
'Temple Colonies', 'Wilhelma', founded in 1902, and the 
older colony of 'Sarona', which was established by the Tem- 
ple Society of Wurtemberg in the early 'sixties'. The Jews 
have not alone been the pioneers in this project of coloniza- 
tion in Bible lands. The Protestant Templers came to Pa- 
lestine to await the arrival of the Messiah, and to endeavor 
to set up, meanwhile, an ideal communal life, based upon 
principles somewhat akin to those of modern Unitarianism. 
We find about 1200 of the Templers to-day, scattered in six 
little groups here and there in fertile spots adjacent to the 
coast between Haifa and Jaffa, their communities not so 
large as those of their Jewish neighbors, but evincing, never- 
theless, much of solid comfort and a measure of financial 
success. 

Sarona, about a mile and a half outside of Jaffa, lies on 
the borders of the ancient plain of Sharon, famous in all 
ages for its fertility and pastures. The 
principal thoroughfare is fringed by mag- 
nificent rows of eucalyptus trees, which 
have been proven to be highly salubrious, 
and a wonder- 
ful help i n 
combating the 
malarial fevers 
which at cer- 
tain seasons 
threaten the 
European set- 
tler. 

The little 
cottages of the 
s e ttlem ent 
spell neatness 
itself, most of 
their exteriors 

HAIFA. 




304 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



had been freshly whitewashed : the beautiful and orderly 
vineyards, the forest-like trees, and vast meadows and the 
plump cattle, all combine to make a striking picture of 
prosperity and peace. A significant and pleasing indication 
of common sense and good comradeship is evinced by the 
fact that the Sarona colonists employ a Jewish overseer in 

order that their milk, butter and 



cheese may be sold to the religi- 
ous Jews of Jaffa, The Sarona 
\ farmers occupy themselves 




mainly with dairying, in which they have met with more 
success than their Jewish colleagues, and in Jaffa they find 
a ready market for their products. As planters and vine 
growers, singularly, the Templers are far behind the Jewish 
settlers. 

It is to be regretted that the climate of lower Judea has 
exacted a heavy toll of life from the German colonists in 
years gone by ; among the young folks, particularly, the mor- 
tality has been very high, and even to-day, with unusually 
careful attention to hygenic and sanitary regulations, they 
do not share the comparative immunity of the Jews, who 
seem temperamentally and physically fitted for the land. I 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



305 



am informed, from reliable sources, that many of the Tem- 
ple colonists leave the country for. German South Africa or 
other German colonies, which accounts in part for the slow 
growth of their communities in the Holy Land. 

And now for the Jewish colonists themselves. Who is 
not interested in the Zionist movement ? — the romantic 
idea that the children of Abraham shall one day dominate 




RISHON LE-ZION ; MACHINERY IN THE WINE CELLAR. 



Palestine ! In the little marginal note accompanying, I 
have sketched with great brevity the progress of the Hebrew 
colonists. Now we shall obtain some first-hand glimpses of 
conditions as they are to-day. Out along the Jerusalem 
road are situated two of their most interesting communities, 
Mikweh Israel and Rishon le-Zion. The former, about an 
hour distant from Jaffa, possesses an agricultural school 
founded on the initiative of Charles Netter about 1869, 
which is at present under the jurisdiction of the Alliance 
Israelite of Paris. The area covered by the school and its 
grounds is about 600 acres, and here 150 young Jewish lads 
receive training along agricultural lines as well as other use- 



306 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



ful and secular knowledge. Attached to the school is a large 
'cellar', where wines are manufactured according to the most 
approved methods. The grave of the founder, Netter, with 
an attractive monument, is shown to visitors in the adjacent 
cemetery. 

Another hour brings us to Rishon le-Zion, a most beau- 
tiful colony situated on a gently rising hillock amid richly 
cultivated meadows. Founded about 1882 by Russian im- 
migrants, it occupies the site of the ancient Ein Hakoreh. 
The colony embraces, all told, about 2000 acres of land, pro- 
ducing chiefly wine and cognac. Here over a million and a 
half vines are planted, and an enormous cellar, equipped 
with the latest and best machinery, takes care of the vin- 
tage of these fields as well as the grapes from many others 
of the smaller colonies. There are besides about 200,000 
mulberry trees for the nurture of silk worms, and a very 
large number of almond and fruit bearing trees. Lately 
these colonists have gone in for the production of perfumes ; 
they have planted large patches of the fragrant geranium- 
rosa, and have put up a distillery. In Rishon le-Zion there 
are at present about 600 inhabitants, all of whom are intel- 
ligent and hospitable, and some of them highly educated. 
There is a synagogue, a school, a town-hall and a splendid 
library, besides a band of music. Last, but by no means 
least, they have a hospital, which serves all the surrounding 
villages. The colony was at one time under the protection of 
Baron Edmond de Rothschild, but the settlers were given 
the opportunity to repay the funds which he advanced. To 




BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 307 




THE HOME OP A WEALTHY COLONIST. 
— PETACH TIKVOH.— 



all practical intents and purposes, Hishon le-Zion is a part 
of Europe, — both in appearance and as regards the charac- 
ter and dress of its citizens. After having visited this colony 
I do not see how anyone can be skeptical as to the ultimate 
success of the scheme, or gloomy as to the future. 

But this is but the beginning of our sight-seeing. The 
Southernmost colony, El-Kastiniah, is away down toward 
Gaza, fully a days journey from Jaffa. It was founded m 
1896, and has a population of but 100 souls. Here each 
colonist has an allotment of 60 acres, given over entirely to 
the culture of wheat. 

The largest Jewish colony in Judea is Petach Tikvoh, 
lying a few miles to the North-east of Jaffa. For this excur- 
sion it is advisable to board a diligence, which traverses the 
Nabulus road, passing through the already mentioned Ger- 
man village of Sarona, After leaving this settlement the 
road is not in the best condition. The fields along the way 
appear to be neglected and the soil poorly cultivated. But 
nature seems to have made up for human carelessness, and 
has brought forth a vritable sea of wild flowers of the dam- 



308 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



tiest variety and most exquisite colors. Look in whatever 
direction you will, and you behold a world of bloom. 

In about two hours the road strikes the banks of the 
river Aujeh, next to the Jordan the largest in Palestine. 
Here a typical Oriental picture presents itself. A caravan 
of Bedouins has halted, and the drivers are sitting near, 
cross-legged, while their loaded camels kneel nearby under 
the old willow trees on the bank. Dark Arab shepherds are 
watering their flocks, men and women sit gossiping, children 
splash around in the water, and young girls pass to and fro 
carrying on their heads large vessels, to which they hold on 
with both hands, displaying on their naked arms bracelets 
made of coins and bangles. Most of the older women were 
not veiled, and their clothes consisted of loose, simple dresses 
striped in many brilliant hues. The vari-colored garments 
worn by children were customary in Bible days, and, it was 
as we recall, a 'coat of many colors' which caused all the mis- 
fortunes that befell poor Joseph. 

On this little trip we are somewhat off the beaten track, 
and the simple greetings of the natives and friendly smiles 
of the fair water carriers give us an inkling into the true 
spirit of the people who have not as yet been spoiled by the 
tourist and his lavishness. 

The first impressions of Petach Tikvoh are very favor- 
able. As we approached the village through rich grazing 
lands, closely cropped 
by herds of healthy 
looking sheep and cat- 
tle, with the sandy hills 
of Ephraim in the dis- 
tance; and then passed 
through a zig-zag lane 
lined with hedges of 
prickly-pear, thorny 
acacia and brilliantly 

J 'WHOA. DOBBIN . 

blooming Oleanders, We a bit of rural life in Palestine. 




BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



309 



♦ 

thought with admiration of the perseverance of the colon- 
ists. Many of the cottages are now surrounded by pretty 
flower gardens, with gaudy red poppies, lupines of red and 
yellow and blue, and countless white and yellow daisies, re- 
minding us forcefully of home. In many intances creeping 
shrubbery overhang the porches and windows, and the 
mimosa, bearing golden balls of tiny flowers, is seen on 
every hand. 

In the history of the Petach Tikvoh colonists we have 
practically the experiences of all the pioneers. The settle- 
ment was established in 1878 by inhabitants of Jerusalem. 
Being very inexperienced, they settled near the lake Odja 
and suffered much because of the unhealthy atmosphere 
from the many marshes. Most of them were obliged to run 
away for their lives, and about 1883 part of the land was 
bought from them by immigrants from Russia. Baron Roth- 
schild planted all around the swamps thousands of Australi- 
an Eucalyptus trees, in consequence of which the air became 
speedily purified, and it is now a very healthy place. It 
possesses about 3500 acres of good land and has a population 
of 1600. 

The modern Arab farmer, like his forefathers, depends 
upon the rain from heaven for his little harvest of grain and 
figs. If he happens to be a bit progressive, and wants a crop 
of oranges or limes which require more moisture, he has re- 
course to the primitive well-sweep 'shadouf so popular in 
Egypt, or the 'sakiyeh' (water-wheel), usually operated by 
oxen or camels driven round and round a windlass, which 
brings up the water by the bucket-full and distributes it in- 
to irrigating trenches. (Oranges and citrons, by the way, 
were probably brought into Palestine by the Jews returning 
from captivity in Babylon.) 

It will be seen at once that the colonist finds himself in 
a land capable of wonderful possibilities, from which, at the 
same time, it requires unceasing energy to obtain the best 
results. 'Eternal vigilance is the price of victory', — and the 



310 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



Jews of Petach Tikvoh have surely gotten the most out of 
the land. Here we see the finest orange grove in Palestine, 
and a most decided improvement upon the primitive irriga- 
tion schemes of the Arab. A large reservoir for water has 
been provided, with modern pumping appliances, operated 
by gasolene motors, as well as an elaborate system of clay 
conduits. Around each tree there are little dams to prevent 
the precious water from escaping. Here too we see a few 
young bamboo trees, which have been imported from the 
tropics and are still in the experimental stage. 

In normal times, over a million and a half boxes of 
oranges are exported annually from this colony alone, but 
since the war a large part of this crop has gone to waste. 
While great hardships have consequently come to the colon- 
ists, and further progress is out of the question until a cessa- 
tion of hostilities, they manage to exist upon the produce of 
their fields, and with such financial help as may come in to 
them from the outside world, they will, we trust, be able to 
'weather the storm'. 

Many of the colonists here occupy themselves with 
wheat culture, bee raising, and the development of the silk 
worm, to say nothing of the vines which here, as everywhere 
else, form one of the main sources of revenue. A good deal 
of hay is also harvested as a sort of auxilliary crop. 

The town boasts of a public square; and before the 
stone houses, of an evening, one sees the farmers at ease, en- 
joying the trusty old pipe for solid comfort and the accordion 
or guitar for inspiration. At the 'hotel' the visitor can us- 
ually obtain a meal of the 'quick lunch' variety, and a good 
clean bed if he proposes to remain for the night. 

One of the leading men of the colony is Dr. Kahan, the 
famous Zionist, who gave up a lucrative practice in Kishinef 
in order to minister to his people on the field. In his dis- 
pensary in the village he treats daily upwards of a hundred 
patients with most scrupulous care, — not only those of 'the 
flock', but all who need his services, — Jew, Gentile or Arab, 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



311 




NOT PENNSYLVANIA, BUT PALESTINE 
The distilleries of Zichron Jacob. 



— from the region nearby. When one sees an example like 
this he gets a new conception of religion. It is not only 
practical Judaism but practical Christianity. Malaria and 
trachoma, the latter a common affliction of the eyes, are the 
diseases most vigorously to be combatted, and both are now 
being kept under control and gradually disappearing, thanks 
to the heroic efforts of Jewish philanthropists and men of the 
type of Dr. Kahan. 

The Zionists, however, have not restricted themselves 
to the immediate neighborhood of Jaffa, Zichron Jacob 
(Memorial of Jacob), sometimes referred to as Zammarin, 
and accounted by many to be the prettiest of all the settle- 
ments, lies much nearer to the port of Haifa, in a beautiful 
region of rolling hills, somewhat like the Mohawk valley. 
Hither, in 1882 came a company of Roumanian Jews. After 
locating themselves in this spot they had a difficult time of 
it, until Rothschild, that good angel of the colonists, took 
them under his wing. Here we find to-day 5000 acres, sup- 
porting perhaps 1000 inhabitants, engaged in viticulture, 
wheat growing and the cultivation of silk worms. In the 
village there is a beautiful park, a pretty synagogue, and all 



312 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 




THE ADMINISTRATION HOUSE, ZICHRON JACOB. 



the other ad- 
juncts of an up- 
to-date colony. 
Another small 
hamlet, that of 
E m el- Djmal, 
with fifty farm- 
ers, lies a few 
miles away. 
Each land-owner 
in this commun- 
ity was a 'picked 
man' selected by Rothschild from among the laborers on his 
other colonies, and individually provided for. 

Then there is the little Motza colony near Jerusalem, 
another near Mt. Hermon, where tobacco is being cultivated 
with success, still another on the Jordan; and near Safed 
we find Rosh Pinah, with a large silk manufactory employ- 
ing 60 hands. And these places which I have enumerated do 
not comprise more than half of the interesting settlements 
which dot the hills of Palestine. 

But to my mind the most impressive of all the modern 
Jewish enterprises in the Holy Land is the Telawiw Colony, 
where we had recently attended the marriage fete, and the 
adjoining Achusath Baith. In reality these suburbs are a 
part of Jaffa itself, which, seen by day, present a surprising 
picture of newness as well as permanence and beauty. Here 
are artistic and substantial residences of stone, built upon 
wide and well-paved asphalt streets, with young shade trees, 
carefully protected with wire fencing, planted before each 
gate. At the end of 'Herzelstrasse' an imposing new school 
building has just been completed, of which any American 
city might justly be proud. We pass neatly dressed and 
good mannered children walking hand in hand, or playing 
with hoople and ball, after the manner of all little folks ; — 
or sometimes we see them investing their pennies at the 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



313 



corner refreshment booth, for all the world like the children 
of our own free land. This suburb of Jaffa is just as different 
from the old Moslem town as is Riverside drive from the 
Ghetto of New York. And this is not a colony of farmers, 
either, — but a quarter occupied by the homes of well-to-do 
merchants and professional men, just as select and desirable 
from every standpoint as the residential section of a Eu- 
ropean city. Nowhere is there the suggestion of the Turk; 
he would be out of his element here. I can give no better 
conception of this 'New Jaffa' than to liken it to one of our 
recently developed Long Island towns, which have come in- 
to being through the activity of the real estate promoters. 
There is not much in the way of shade as yet, but the new 
trees have a good start and give promise of ever increasing 
beauty as the Summers come and go. 

Here then, I think we get the answer to one of the 
world's greatest questions, the future of the Jew in Palestine. 
At the old wall of the Temple in Jerusalem we have seen 
a remnant of God's chosen people asking repeatedly with 
averted faces : "How long, Oh Lord, how long ?" For cen- 
turies has this cry gone up, apparently to be hurled back by 
heavens of brass. But in the mean time other Jews, none 
the less devout, but with faces toward the light, have been 
ceaselessly working to hasten the answer to these prayers. 
When, therefore, one comes, — like myself, a stranger open 
to conviction, — and sees these new homes and institutions, 
hundreds of them, built by Jews and for Jews, he asks him- 
self if indeed the dawn is not at hand, and the great Je- 
hovah, hearkening to the cry of His first love, is not begin- 
ning to pour out His promised blessings upon the Children 
of Israel ! 

The morning of our departure arrived at last. From 
the window of our hotel we see the little 'Menzalah' of the 
Khedevial line riding at anchor : ere another night falls we 
shall be homeward bound. So we stow away our belongings 
as compactly as possible, and after the final stuffing process 



314 BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



kneel upon our old suit cases and tighten the creaking straps 
to the point of bursting. Then we stack them by the door, 
ready for the busy Yemenite porter when it shall suit his 
fancy to come for them. 

"Well", says my good friend, "so you are going home ? 
I wish I were sailing with you, but I must remain for yet 




•HERZELSTRASSE' IN THE TELAWIW COLONY. JAFFA. 

another week to conclude my purchases. But I'll go down 
with you as far as the Custom House, at any rate, and see 
if there is a letter from home". He tells me that I have 
ample time, that my boat will not be ready to heave anchor 
before the middle of the afternoon. This turns out to be the 
case, and we have time for a farewell luncheon together. 

It was indeed well on in the afternoon before our lug- 
gage was gathered up, and we took our places in the long 
boat for the crossing of the bar. A last handshake with big- 
hearted Saland, a farewell word, and off we go. Skillfully 
the husky boatmen pilot the heavy tub through the surf, 
and after ten minutes of rising and falling on the incoming- 
billows we are alongside the steamer and scrambling up the 
gang-way stairs; the rowers meanwhile holding fast with 
the very necessary boat-hooks. Just a little agility is re- 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 315 

quired to make the lowest step in safety, and we saw one 
excited young lady, who had deliberated a moment too long, 
receive the benefit of an unexpected swell. The small boat 
gave a lurch, she lost her balance and fell with a cry of 
alarm. But two brawny arms were 

ready to catch her; not however un- 

til a wet foot / and a still wet- 

t e r stocking , / had e 1 i c i t e d 



another expression of supremely feminine disgust. In 
rough weather I am told that it is often impossi- 
ble to make a landing at Jaffa and passengers in that case 
must go on to Haifa. It certainly appears to be exciting 
sport for the boatmen, but even this is not quite so bad as 
the conditions existing at some of the South and Central 
American ports, where they strap you in a chair and lower 
you into a boat with block and tackle like so much freight, 
dangling from the arm of a derrick. 

Car go is still being taken aboard, — barge after barge 
brings its load of crated oranges to be emptied into our hold, 
— then comes alongside a vast load of cases and boxes. It 
is fully four o'clock before everything is under cover and we 
pull away. The engines 'chug' and the ship begins to 





OUR STEAMER BEYOND THE REEF. 



316 



BETHLEHEM AND JAFFA 



quiver, — the foamy trail behind us lengthens and then 
vanishes into the ocean's blue, — like the days which are 
gone and a tale that is told. The white town soon loses it- 
self in the outlines of the fast receding shore; in a little 
while the shore itself has faded into the grey haze of the 
horizon ; then nothing remains but sea and sky, and our little 
ship's company, alone upon the bosom of the deep amid the 
gathering shadows. 



A few months ago a striking cartoon appeared in one of 
our Jewish dailies. A boy is shown looking over his father's 
shoulder as he pores over an outspread map. The lad points 
inquiringly to the chart as he asks eagerly, "Father, where 
is our Land ?" No answer is given ; father and son regard 
each other in silence. 

The Palestine of the past belongs to the ages. It has 
given to the world its wealth of history and poetry, its laws, 
its heroes, and its living Christ, through whom all the na- 
tions of the earth are blessed. But the Palestine of the 
future belongs to the Jew, to re-people, to enrich and to 
place among the potential nations of the twentieth century ; 
from out the ruins of the past and the struggles of the 
present to create a brilliant to-morrow, radiant with the sun- 
shine of prosperity. 

Land of the Prophets, thy hills and valleys have echoed 
with the songs of Solomon, the pleadings of Ezekiel, and the 
beatitudes of Jesus ! And to-day there comes to us from out 
the far distant past, the voice of Amos, faintly heard, yet 
now, methinks, clearly understood : 

''And I will bring again the captivity of my people of Israel, and they 
shall build the waste cities, and inhabit them; and they shall plant vine- 
yards, and drink the wine thereof ; they shall also make gardens, and eat the 
fruit of them. And I will plant them upon their land, and they shall no more 
be pulled up out of their land which I have given them, saith the Lord thy 
God. ' ' 



/ 

/ 



